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mrfish

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Everything posted by mrfish

  1. Thanks guys. I have found the relevant pdf and will follow the instructions given and see if that helps.
  2. After 5 years of trying to work out where the annoying rattle is on the 110 i have finally found it. The caliper in the X-Brake seems to be rattling. What is the best solution?
  3. I wouldnt assume that the timing is ok. Even if you fit the FIP timing pin and the pin into the crank. I had major problems with my 110. Very noisy and way down on power. Eventually i tried moving the timing back by one tooth and it made a big difference. I suspect that someone in the past has mucked about with the FIP. I do now have a new FIP which i will fit soon. It certainly sounds like you have the same symptoms that i endured for 4 years! My wife's 90 goes like a whippet on crack, but i had always assumed that was because i carry a load of stuff in mine and she goes top off most of the time.
  4. Thanks for all your help guys. I have printed off the service bulleting to give to the mechanic. Though in all fairness to the mechanic the vehicle is a YA VIN number. I have ordered the full pulley and idler kit (including the Dayco belt). You can rest assured I will be standing over this one when it finally goes back together again! Should I ever need it I also have a new OEM front cover assy if needed. I am certain that the outer flange had not just come off. The mechanic would have said if it had I am sure. At least the repair work to get it all back up and running wont cripple the wallet. one full pulley idler set, 3 rockers and a full set of push rods. So fairly lucky really. This vehicle has been a pain in the ass from day one. Whereas my wifes 90 never gives any trouble at all. By the way Tanuki we don't use ridgebacks here. We have hyena, lion and leopard. Not to mention the crocs in the dambo at the back of the house. Hyena and Crocs eat absolutely everything!
  5. Sadly we are a little bit distant from a true LR Mechanic (about 700km away!) and very much in a rural area so we have to take what we can get in terms of mechanics. I have ordered a full tensioner pulley kit so that we can replace the old stuff and put in the modified pulley. Should any member of this forum want to come out to rural Zambia and stay in a place less than a kilometre from the South Luangwa National park and stay with us and fix a couple of Landies let me know. Next major project is a replacement cross member of the 90.
  6. It was a new belt. I supplied it and saw it being fitted
  7. I checked and the engine was definitely made in Argentia so should be latter type. can only assume someone has changed parts on the engine in the past
  8. I hadn't noticed that before but you are right. Not sure why it is pre-mod though. Its not an old vehicle. Its one of the ones built for export in 2003 that has has the 300 engine fitted.
  9. had a cam belt change earlier this year and driving home yesterday the engine just died on me. Really embarrassing because I had a film crew with me who then decided to film me having to tow the damn thing back home! Anyway a quick check under the rocker cover confirmed that I had 3 broken rockers and 4 bent push rods. Took the front cover off and found the belt snapped with fluff galore. What would cause such rubbing and failure?
  10. There is only one essential accessory. everything else is optional
  11. I agree that the FIP needs to be serviced and reset. Time is always against me though so i will either have to find someone in Zambia who can do it for me or try and persuade a skilled Landie fan to come out from the UK and stay for a short while. At least i live less than a mile from one of the best wildlife parks in the world. Even this morning i got out of bed to look out of the bedroom window and see lions on the far side of the dambo. So if you know anyone let me know!
  12. I too have a VDO but with the stock fan and it normally sits at 88. except when climbing a particular set of hills at 4000ft in 40c temps when it hits about 94
  13. Ok. Update.. Swapped Turbo for new Garret, changed water pump and thermostat and move timing belt for FIP by one tooth retarded. Seems to have sorted almost all of the problems though still needs a bit of tweaking on the pump to reduce the smoke from a small amount to almost zero.
  14. IS this the kind of thing you got? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-Range-Rover-Defender-T250-04-452055-Turbocharger-cartridge-CHRA-/331396542751?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4d28c5f11f
  15. I did test the pump by removing the hose and the turning the engine and it seemed at. The thermostat did work before but it certainly wont hurt replacing it. I do have a spare. Top and bottom hoses as only a month or so old and confirmed as in good condition. Will flush the rad anyway just to be on the safe side. Plenty of coolant and not just water. Interesting about the Garret Turbo Cassette. How did you get hold of that? Always worth a stab, especially at that cost. Decided to keep the cobra. Pretty effect car theft deterent This car is the bane of my life. So far spend 82hrs trying to sort it out. Whereas my wifes 300tdi 90 is rusty around the edges but never puts a foot wrong.
  16. Found a spitting cobra in the engine bay this afternoon so gave up for the day. Will try again tomorrow
  17. The temp does drop very quickly. I need to somehow try and stop very sharpish and turn off the engine and check it with the IR Thermometer to see what is reading on the head. The intercooler wasnt flushed so i will give that a flush out too. My immediate leaning is towards the turbo because the engine is performing rock solid when stationary. It revs easily, starts at first turn of the key and is as quiet as a sewing machine and not a trace of smoke. Its only when on the road and putting the foot on the gas does any of the symptoms appear. As far as i can tell the coolant was bled ok. But i will check again to make sure. I will try it first with the old turbo fitted and make sure the oil supply and returns are in good working order. Has anyone had any experience of these non Garret turbos from britpart? I did order a replacement Garret to give my mate a turbo back but that will take a few days to be flown in. If the turbo change doesnt fix it then i will whip the head off and change the gasket.
  18. I will check out the connector to the sender to see it it is ok. The gauge is a VDO i fitted last year and has been ok up until now. I also have a IR temp gauge but given that the temp is only high when driving is makes it somewhat difficult to use. The rad was new 2 years ago and looks ok. Gets hot to the touch all over as far as i can tell.
  19. I did fit a new cylinder head and gasket during the rebuild.
  20. Now begins a long tale of woe, involving overheating, smoke, bad timing and just about anything that can go wrong that does. My 300tdi has been a major pain in the ass since I bought her. Recently I have been having some oil pressure problems as well as failing diffs both front and rear. However my more recent problems have driven me to the edge of despair and bankruptcy! A few weeks ago she badly overheated. The cause was identified as a split expansion tank. However that was just the beginning of my problems. The first thing I did was to make a decision to strip off the head and have a look at what damage has been caused and to try and get to the problem of the oil pressure problem (taking too long for the oil light to go out and sounding a bit ‘tappety’). When it was stripped I found problems with number 4 piston showing some signs of heat damage so changed the piston and fitted new rings to all pistons. Also took the opportunity to fit a new cylinder head and head bolts. Also fitted a new oil pump as well as a pressure relief valve and spring. During the rebuild we found that the play in the turbo was way beyond acceptable (3 to 4 mm) lateral movement. Also that the fuel lift pump was not working to fitted a new one. Living in a fairly remote area of Zambia meant that choice of parts can be a bit limited (I normally order from the UK). So for the Turbot I had to rely on borrowing from a friend. He had a new Britpart no-name turbo (not Garrett) which we fitted. After putting the whole lot back together we had a bugger of a time with sorting out some timing issues, but the long and short of it is that it now starts at the first turn of the key, the oil pressure is good and the runs very quietly and without smoke, but only when it is stationary. If you rev it there is no smoke and all is well. The problems start when taking out onto the main road. The car smoke badly (difficult to see colour easily but looks light blue) and the temp rises quickly. When I slow right down the smoke goes and temp drops. Given that there is almost bugger all left to change on the engine I am a bit stumped. My initial thoughts are that the new turbot is not actually working correctly for some reason. I asked my mechanic friend who was with me when we tested her if he heard the turbo whistle and he said he did not. Would this cause these symptom?
  21. I came back from a particulary difficult journey last night (8 hours of river crossings, rock trails and dried mud tracks) to find the rea of the vehicle spattered in oil. Had a look underneath and found the whole of the rear to be covered in oil, and i do mean covered. The diff housing was covered top to bottom as well as the A frame, shocks and springs etc. I have been scratching my head over the cause. If the front seal of the diff had failed i would expect potentialy a significant leak but not for it to be sprayed everywhere. I then noticed that the breather to the rear axle had touched onto the exhaust and melted a bit and effectively sealed itself. Would this cause the diff to overpresurise and blow out oil? or worse still crack the top of the diff housing? I will try and take some photos tomorrow morning showing the extent of the oil coverage.
  22. I have the National Luna system fitted to my 110 and it has never been a problem. I did try just using a simple relay based system before but it kept giving me problems. The advantages of the National Luna system are that it has a good dual battery monitoring display, only charges the second battery when the first is ok, allows me to override the connection for winching and has a low battery alarm. However it sure as hell wasn't cheap. I bought mine from South Africa but i believe that you can get them in the UK from neneoverland i believe
  23. Already tried that. I disconnected the loom entirely and still the same problem.
  24. I've started having issues with blowing fuses on the RH side lights. The vehicle is a 'rest of the world' 2000 300 tdi with t5 dash and wiring. Trying to track down the problem but still no luck on finding the culprit. So far i have tried the following: Completely disconnecting dash instrument panel disconnecting RH front wiring loom from bulkhead removing RH rear side light bulb Removing main compartment fuse box to check the wiring. Does anyone have any suggestions of what to do next? my main fear is a chaffing going through the chassis or behind my second fuel tank which is located rear right. Is there a way to disconnect the loom going to the rear right? If I cannot find the cause then i may just resort to snipping the cable as it comes out of the fuse box and fit a new junction with a replacement cable to the instrument pack, front and rear lamps.
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