Dads Toy

I put the crystal one's in mine and they are a huge improvement. I also bought new plastic bowls to go behind them and provide some sort of protection. The fiddly bit is the H4 connector won't go through the cable hole, but you can actually take it apart put the wires through and then put the connector back on. The wire connectors latch in the plastic moulding, and once you work out which side of the metal connector to put a thin screwdriver down, they just pull out. First side took about an hour, the second 3 mins!

Thanks guys, The suggestions are certainly appreciated. If it still drips after polishing the small groove in the pinion and replacing the seal I will be back to square one, so whilst it's apart I may as well replace the old one and do it properly first time. Malcolm

Phew! So it doesn't sound as bad as I thought. I can certainly use plenty of ignorance (and a little brute force) to get the old seal out. I was going to measure/fit the new seal to the pinion before putting it in and although there is a slight groove in the pinion I think it will polish out. It was the excess play that had me worried but thank you Mark for explaining why I have it until the nut is tightened. At least I know what to expect when I do the front one. Malcolm

Using all the good advice from this forum, I eventually have got round to changing the rear diff pinion oil seal - or rather have got halfway! Drained the oil, undid the prop shaft, got that flipping tight nut off and am now more than a little worried. The seal doesn't look anything like the replacement I have and certainly doesn't want to come out with my tentative levering BUT what really concerns me is the fact that the pinion has a huge amount of play side to side and up and down. Am I right in assuming there should be a bearing of some sort holding it in position in the nose of the diff and then the seal stops leaks going past it? Otherwise I can't see how it would ever hold oil as the shaft will never be in constant contact with the seal as it flaps around as the prop shaft does it's thing. Any advice welcome. Malcolm

As Jimy Neutron suggests, look at the spill pipes. I thought I had an oil leak until I checked under the bonnet. Noticed oily black stuff coming from the bottom of the front injector, but on further looking noticed it was actually diesel coming from the spill pipe which had come off a little. Putting it back helped, but then my wife said she could hear a high pitched whistle (I'm actually partly deaf) so I pulled the rubber pipe off and then pulled back the woven cover to discover it had perished in 3 or 4 places. The diesel soaks old dirt off and looks like oil , well diesel effectively is oil, drips down and looks like it's leaking from somewhere else. £2 for a new length of pipe from local dealer, cut to length, put on and voila clean engine!

Thanks all that explains it, propshaft tool and new nuts and bolts ordered and with a bit of luck another oil drip fixed (for now) Malcolm

I am about to change the oil seals in my diff pinions and obviously need to take the prop shaft off, but what size are the nuts/bolts? I was going to buy a propshaft tool and that is described as 9/16 AF, Microcat says they're 3/8UNF and I've seen articles where a 14mm spanner is used. I can see that 9/16 and 14mm are very close but if I have 3/8 then the tool isn't going to fit. So what size are they? Malcolm

After a lot of thumping from the back every time I went over a bump, I decided that it wasn't doing the door or the hinges any good so looked round for a decent swing away carrier. Eventually I went for the Mantec one and you do get what you pay for. Yes it's expensive, but the quality is excellent and I can't see the coating coming off for some considerable time. No problem at all opening the door - it does what it says on the tin and swings away but stays attached. Fitting it, as you'd expect didn't quite go as per instructions, as the brackets didn't quite line up when you put the carrier itself in, but how many Landy's are exactly square to start with? Just a little adjusting and it went on fine. The only criticism I have is that the bolts corrode quickly (I replaced most of them with stainless) and the top bracket fitting needs a backing piece inside the tub so it tightens up squarely. Back end is now silent and I'm sure the hinges etc are better for it. Malcolm

Thanks for that, we'll try it and see. Interesting that it's titled Saudi Junction connector as I believe the Disco actually went there after being built in the UK and before coming back.

Mt friend has a 300Tdi Mk1 Discovery and whenever it gets to 120kph a "dinging" noise starts and won't stop until you slow down. Apart from the obvious of not going that fast does anyone know how to disable it? I believe it comes from behind the fuse box by the drivers knee but exactly where we can't tell. I've heard that you can disconnect something to stop it but what exactly? Thanks Malcolm

Mine is the same as BM52 ie no dovetail. The parts diagram is great, but only shows it in use for up to KA.... my '95 starts MA... so was it still fitted to later models? I fitted the spare wheel on a Mantec carrier, and whilst expensive, it has certainly made a huge difference as the door no longer carries the weight of the spare wheel. Malcolm