Dads Toy

The way I understand their reply, it's not the vehicles spring rate but the spring rate (flexibility) of the tyre that needs matching to the original hence their statement that it relates to tyre pressure. e.g. the higher the pressure the less "spring" in the tyre. What's interesting is that they seem to say their tyres aren't capable of the rear axle loading yet all the suppliers sell them for just that! Malcolm

If Mutz doesn't want it, I'm definitely interested. Malcolm

I'm going to get 10, if they each save 10-20% I reckon I'll have to empty the excess fuel from tank every week! Malcolm

"S'funny mate, they all do that"

I used the gwyn lewis one's when I did mine. Very happy with them. Malcolm

Just put mine on but then found the track rod protector (that bolts into the diff casing) won't fit. The gap is big enough for the bar but when it's bolted on it's too high for the bar to go in. I've left it off at the moment and aim to either get a better guard or get a large spacer made. Malcolm

They were new to her - my wife has heard them before!

My reversing lamp has seen better days, i the plastic lens is cracked and there's water inside. I took the lens off to find the rubber gasket wasn't in the groove all the way round and something green was growing in it! OK get a new lamp and start to take the old one off - it's only 2 nuts, it can't be that difficult. Well who designed it? I bet he never tried changing one. There's a large mud flap covering the nuts, fair enough but because it sits getting splashed, the screws holding it on don't have any slots anymore - they've healed over with rust so can't take it off. Holding it out of the way, the bugger attacks your wrist every time but eventually I get a spanner on the rusty nuts and blimey they turn! Only problem is so does the bolt they're attached to. Take the bulb holder out and find the other end is under a blob of melted plastic. That's all that holds it in so of course the head spins round. At this stage the neighbour comes across and commends me on some new words she's never heard before!!! Drilled the plastic blob and head off then punched it through and put new one on before it started raining but had to repeat the problem. Memo to self, next time I drill out the fitting and put a bolt and washer in the plastic case so I can undo it. Malcolm

Had exactly the same problem with mine. After a bit of crawling around underneath, I managed to file a very small groove on the drop arm and a cable tie lasted long enough to get it through the MOT and a couple of weeks after then it went pop again. Unless you get one with the correct lip then you'll always be fighting aginst water and rust and if you're going to the trouble of changing the arm or getting the separate lip pressed in then why not go the Disco drop arm route? I did mine and don't have to keep looking to see if the cover has popped off plus when it eventually goes, it will be very easy to change unlike the ball joint. Yes you have to get a damper bracket but there are a few available on the net so no big deal. Malcolm

Don't bother with the 101, keep your 110 and buy the Merc? Bet he gets even less mpg than the 110 plus ask him what his insurance is on it. Plus did you find the engine? They put them under a huge cover so no more doing anything yourself. You'll just have to keep the 110 as well just to keep your hand in. Malcolm my other car is a Merc

Getting the courage up to try and bend mine! The top of mine at the back doesn't meet the seal and no amount of fiddling with the hinges made it better - mind you when I took the card off I found the previous owner had welded the window frame back to the door so guess he broke it at some time but didn't get it lined up when he filled it with pigeon poo! Malcolm

My '95 Hard top doesn't have the low fuel warning light (blacked out in the warning light panel) and I'm changing to the later panel. Can I just change the float unit for one with the low level warning (+wiring) ? What part number am I looking for? Thanks Malcolm

Why not try giving Bob in Post #11 a PM (personal message)? He seems to have exactly what you want. Malcolm

Sikaflex is often recommended for Land Rovers where you need to stick something, but which one? I had a quick look and there seem to be quite a few! Malcolm Sorry, just found the thread in "Tools & fab"

I had the same problem and replaced the spring some time ago. Be prepared for quite a bit of dismantling though! http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=69954&hl=&fromsearch=1 is the thread with some pictures. I just couldn't get anywhere near doing it through the footwell - fat broken fingers, not enough patience, neighbours getting upset at the swearing etc. Malcolm

I always use axle stands whenever I do any work that requires jacking. I've read about problems with high lifts "running away" but confess to not knowing much about them although they seem a good idea and beat the standard jack that hardly lifts a Defender enough to change the tyres. Malcolm

I have an old Halfords one that's rated at 2 tons and apart from the fact that with 235/85 tyres it's at the end of it's travel when the tyres are off the ground, it's OK. I always use axle stands under the chassis anyway, but my question with trolley jacks is where do you place it? The books seem to suggest under the diff but I just have this horrible feeling Im going to crush the pan before I get it up! I tend to put it on the end of the axle under the spring mounts but this means I have to jack each side up separately. So where is the best place to put it so I can raise the complete Front/Back? Malcolm

I thought the bar behind the axle is the Track Rod and the one in front (connected to the swan neck) is the Drag Link. To centre the steering box, disconnect the swan neck, turn the steering wheel fully left then come 2 complete turns back. If you connect up the swan neck the wheels should now be straight ahead. If the steering wheel is out slightly you adjust the length of the drag link (nominally 924mm between centre of ball joints). You should be able to adjust both ends equally as one is left hand and the other right hand, so turning the rod will lengthen/shorten it equally. If grossly out you have to take the steering wheel off and put back straight. HTH Malcolm

I just used stainless steel bolts and nuts, copper greased to stop them seizing, in the hope that they won't rust to hell under there. Still making minor adjustment on them to stop rubbing but I can't get anywhere near the measurement that Rave reckons. I'd need bolts twice as long and would never get round corners! Malcolm

I bought all mine from Mud, the rear wash/wipe from him is the easiest way to get that working. This does mean that you have them the "wrong" way round though I've got totally used to it despite my initial fears. They're actually just a robust switch that's very straightforward inside. You could take the front off and turn it round and it's not a difficult job to swap the led's over (apart from the mini resistor and the springs that make a bid for freedom as soon as you open it) but why bother? Malcolm

Vertically?

One end is LH and the other RH so that you can adjust it's length when in place simply by turning it. (stands to be corrected)

Apart from the messing around when I changed my ball joint, the boot never sat on the arm on mine - there was no lip to hold it on. With nothing apart from a zip tie to hold it on it was never going to last long so I did the conversion plus HD steering bar. So far am well pleased with it and when the time comes to change the joint I know it will straightforward. Malcolm

1) Buy a replacement arm, cut off the old one with thin cutting discs. 2) After you've tried hitting it, breaking pullers etc for a few days - go to 1) Malcolm

In theory yes, in practise for me - NO. I soaked mine in Plus gas for 2 days, broke the arm off a puller and ended up cutting the arm through to get it off. The Land Rover puller is horendously expensive as are other heavy duty one's designed for this application. A normal 3 legged type puller a) can't get all 3 legs on due to the shape of the arm, b) just aren't strong enough. I've read of 10 ton pullers not moving it. Using a club hammer to knock it off didn't work and heating is a no go due to the seals in the box. If it has never been off before and been greased on replacement then your chances are slim of pulling it off. The nut is done up to 130Nm! But hey, you may be lucky so good luck - let us know how you get on. Centreing the box and adjusting the steering wheel were dead easy so If the shaft does move it's no big deal. Malcolm