Jump to content

Sam of Sweden

Getting Comfortable
  • Posts

    15
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Sam of Sweden

  1. Just wondering as time ticks on and the chassis is back from galving. Should I put it all the body back together first, mask and paint, or paint wing assemblies , tub, doors, roof and bulkhead plus seatbox bonnet individually? I guess bonnet is obvious as is doors. But roof and tub are pretty heavy and bound to knock something on the re-build. Am I answering my own question The rear end could be fitted first and painted where as the front sections are painted and then fixed? Fairly confused still, little advice required me-thinks Thanks
  2. I've used paddocks a few times for bits coming here to sweden. They seem to take there time answering the phone on the international line, but eventually get through. Don't forget the time difference might mean you try calling when they take breaks My worries with them are a new system of payments and the rise in delivery costs??? Was going to cost 30squid for a 4kg parcel. They also seem to have the ability to take money twice off one transaction. i.e one for parts and if the box is ticked for "no confirmation required on postal costs" they take the second amount later. All this after saying to me on the phone that they don't keep card information???? Saying all that, They are helpful and there salvage dept. is always worth a nose around. I do shop around a bit trying different suppliers. None are perfect Craddock's need to learn how to pack. Oh yeah, a photo of the parts would be nice to see on the website Bought parts book Very useful LRseries need to work on there communication skills and try not to insult customers Paddocks are alright. Only wish they could sell some more special bolts and other smaller stuff. Rant over.....feel much better now
  3. Very good thread. The tool for pulling that seal collar is quite a chunk of metal. I'm sure I have to rethink my tool fabrication and step up the thickness of steel!!
  4. Hi there, Trying to get the collar off at the back by using some modifications to gear pullers, but I've either broken or bent the puller's teeth trying to hold onto the small recess in the collar. Also made two shell halves to go over around the recess(gallery) but this after extension bars and brute force on the puller also bent off and out of the collar. I remembered, just incase you were all wondering to remove the circlip! But have I forgotten something else, oh yeah the fifth gear selector is off and have a nice view inside the rear casing now. Please let there be someone with a cheap fix for this. I only want the main shaft for the time being to fit the clutch back on for another couple of engines. Cheers Sam
  5. Fair enough, I wasn't pulling the damper out to the right size.....I feel like a right plonker!!!!
  6. Hi there I've got a disco chassis with a short steering damper at the rear of the front axel, and a 110 defender chassis with a long damper at the front of the axel. Why, when I ordered a defender steering damper did I get a short damper I could only find one size on-line???? I've now got a RTC4472 advertised to fit both 90 and 110 from 1983 but guess what, its a shorty!!! Any suggestions
  7. So nobodies tried the sealant trick yet? The attachment is a workshop doc that came on a disk full of stuff for everything other than a 200. Looks like a very easy way of doing it. The stuff´s called hylosil, and pretty sticky! Sam 12engine_hylosil.pdf
  8. I found this article in an improvements section, and stripping my block showed the same technique? Sorry, I couldn't figure out how to send just the one page But seeing all the workshop manuals from turbo diesels through to 300s it shows the use of cork? I've got a selection of workshop manuals on cd-rom but have to fill in the blanks occasionally looking at old turbo diesel data and 300tdi data. I am though very interested in the offer to get some new seals, as you're feeling so generous! Thanks very much I take it we should start the bargaining process. LR_1988_model_improvements.pdf
  9. Hi there, just got to replacing the main bearing shells after lots of checking and measuring. The block(200tdi)gasket pack I bought here in sweden was an allmakes product. The T-seals that line inside the rear and widest bearing cap are not cork but a strange soft gritty rubber compound? I've had a pig of a job getting the cap to slide in place. Don't want to slip at this stage. Tried cutting the required amount off, but the rubber blunts a scalpel blade in about two seconds! Should I try and find a genuine cork seal set or should I use the sealant(stc611) technique? That is the squeezing sealant down the gaps where the seals should have been, and then quickly putting the ladderframe on.
  10. Thanks Western, what a great website. Pictures to go with nearly everything! Those marks are quite deep, so I think I'd rather part with the cash and buy some piece of mind.
  11. Sorry Lars couldn't find anything on hitta.se. Don't suppose you know any more about the location? I did find though, a place called motorrenova in Helsingborg. Huge lorry engine service place, and a little bit closer for me. I'll be trying to do the guides at home. Thanks for the help though.
  12. Thanks for the tips everyone, I took the block earlier, to get inspected at the local motor refurb place in Helsingborg, whom embarrassingly said it looked like it had come straight out of the factory and stop being such a pedant. They did inspect the camshaft bearings properly and were generally very helpful. I would like to ream the guides myself, and learn a trick or two. This is all a bit educational for me, and every step I can achieve on my todd is one more thing learned. Saying that, a lump of metal that won't start won't be much good either:-) Does anyone know the dimensions of service tool LRT12-515? This is the spacer section to gain the right height for the guides. Did notice on the strip down that the underside of the guides was only just showing through the head. Is there a certain amount of tolerance built in? That is to say already been on the net and ordered a 8mm reamer. 7.96mm valves, leaves 0.02mm either side. Tight but not too tight I hope. Did find a 7.98 reamer, but I think that was a machine piece, not the longer hand reamer I ordered. I have the luxury of a kiln with thermometer and can heat the head up to the right temp to push in or out the guides. Hope the oil left in the kiln doesn't do to much damage to the next firing though! On a different note, does anybody with knowledge of the oil pump and pressure relief valve on a 200tdi seen deep striations in the 'plunger' part, where the channel back up to the pump meets. I've also noticed slight beveling on what was the top side of the plunger end face? Could this be a leaking plunger or just the expected 'serviceable' condition? I don't think I can buy just the plunger part as the rest is alright. Just to say, really enjoying having people out there to share with. This has been a bit of a minefield, but loving every minute of it. Thanks!
  13. Here in Sweden we only have council controlled or DVLA(equivalent) test centres, all very modern and clean, with the exact same machines for testing! I have to endure watching my 110 get lifted up on a pneumatic jig and shaken to test the wheel bearings and steering. Looks very violent but I'm sure they know what they're up to! Can only say that experiences in the U.K., garages that would fail one thing, then return with fixed car to another place, would fail for something else. A controlled environment where profit is not an issue, helps curb greedy exploiting mechanics. Its not all good though, road tax costs about 850 squid here. Rant over, back to my cuppa!
  14. Just goes to show, when you've got the right manual at hand, and not some botched example purchased from ebay on cd-rom. Thank you. I'll start scouring for a reel good reamer!
  15. Hi there, I'm a brand new member with a problem! Just got hold of a set of new valve guides for my 200tdi engine. Didn't expect any problems because all part numbers corresponded, but the valve guides LGJ100880 made in Oct 08 are about 0.3mm narrower and no chance of getting the existing valve stems in? Has anyone else suffered the same problem, or is it just a freak failing of the manufacturers? Obviously have to look at what I could have done wrong first, but all part no.s match and specifications of valve stem are all ok. Saying that, my valves stamped part no. has a suffix m, couldn't find any related suffix on part searches. Please help
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy