gn3dr
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Posts posted by gn3dr
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OOOh I really like the look of that Range Rover. Any more progress on it?
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When I do this I'll be looking for BMW E46 convertible front seats. They both tilt and have the seat belts integral to them.
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Rear floor section in 2 door rangie, looks like the guys at the factory just cut it from a sheet of corrugated aluminium. Its just a rectangle of profiled sheet, do you think they got that stuff in from somewhere (already used for something else industrial etc) or is it a bespoke part do you think?
Mine is full of holes mostly started where the rivets are , I could get someone to TIG all the holes up but there are so many it would cost a small fortune. I guess using just flat sheet would be too weak/noisey/unsuitable, I missed out on a new old stock floor the other day on e-bane, what have other people done, or anyone got a half decent floor?
Ta
Make one - with the pattern hammered or rolled into a flat sheet.
Do a web search on a pullmax (or similar type machine) machine and use beading dies. If you can find someone with one of those you are sorted.
I just recently bought a mahcine liek this for £200 but I'm in Ireland and I don;t have it up and running yet.
I'd say if you put a call out on http://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/ there would be someone on there who could make one. I know there is at least one guy on there with a Trumpf reciprocating machine.
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Hi
I had the exact same problem with my P38. It's a while ago now and I've since sold it so I am working from memory.
It was not the pollen filter as the entry to this is raised so water can't flow up hill.
If you take off the black plastic panel below the windscreen there are some screws holding this and a few more panels to the bulkhead. Even though the screws were present the water was getting through the plastic captive nuts for these screws.
Just found my post about it here on another forum.My link
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Appologies if this has been covered before, not had much look searching the archives. in fact I'm sure I asked this myself a few months ago but have forgotten the answer..
I'm contemplating swapping out the LT95 on my rangie for a R380 as I could use a fifth gear and would like to drop a sorted gearbox in place before my next trip rather than deal with the daily paranoia fed by oil leaks, funny smells and the occasional stiff gear change.
Just wondering if anyone has done this swap, and if there are any major hurdles - ie do mounts need shifting, tunnel need chopping etc?
I do know that I'll need a V8 gearbox rather than a TDi one.
Hope someone replies to this. I'm contemplpating something similar. Have an LT95 in my classic and I have an overdrive to fit but I'm wondeirng if it would be better to just get a 5 speed.
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My wife's HSE had got a standard Hardon Kardon system amps and subs etc.
She wants to connect her Ipod touch to the stereo but we don't want to use the radio link as there a bit kak.
The original stereo has a shot screen so I was planning to replace it with a Sony I have spare which has a MP3/ aux link.
I know that the steering controls will no longer work not that they do at the moment
Is there a way that I can get the stereo to run the original amps the car already has
You can get teh original HK stereo repaired and modified to connect the Ipod. See here for someone that got it done.
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f10/info-onl...pair-69008.html
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Excellent. Thanks for those maps. Much appreciated. Should help me a lot when I get ready to start up.
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Ian
Could you post up your maps anyway as I will be squirting a standard 3.5 using V3 MS1 so hopefully it should work for me.
On your description of the water pipes - was there a changeover period on how these were routed - mine ('89 engine) are routed back to the heater outside the plenum (over the drivers side rocker cover) but I have the older type injectors - connected to the fuel rail with little lengths of pipe.....
One other question. There is a water heated plate underneath the throttle body on the 3.5 I have. Do you think this is necessary when converting to megasquirt? I guess it's for preventing icing or something like that in cold climates but my logic tells me cold air = better performance (in our relatively mild climate)?
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Strikes me that with all the work to fit the hotwire EFI it would make much more sense to install megasquirt right from the start?
Thanks for all the helpful replies folks.
Geoff - I probably will be converting to Megasquirt straight away once I get the mechanical swap done. It's actually a flapper system so just in case there are any delays with the Megasquirt I can always do a temp job to keep me on the road as fitting the Lucas loom I believe isn't too much bother.
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Hi
I've decided to swap the engine in my '73 Range Rover (Stromberg carbed V8 engine) for a 3.5 89 V8 with EFI (The 73 engine is still good but I want to convert to EFI so decided rather than just swapping inlet manifolds to swap the whole engine to avail of the higher compression on the 89 unit)
Once that is done I will then be converting the EFI to Megesquirt.
I've just started the process of removing the 89 engine.
My questions are related to the engine swap. The 89 is an Auto and the '73 is obviosuly a manual.
1) Will the 73 flywheel just bolt straight onto the 89 engine?
2) Will the 89 twin outlet manifolds and downpipes clear the LT95 gearbox?
3) Are there any other gotchas that I might be missing?
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I think I know the ones you are talking about - like the wheels fitted to the A-Team van.....
There are some old school RRC alloys I've seen they're the only ones I think will suit my 2 door. Trouble is I can't even find a picture now and don't know the name.They have many many spokes and are black inside all the spokes but the spoke outer faces are polished. Imagine making a groove every centimetre in a solid disk of alloy and thats basically what they look like.
Anyone know what I'm talking about?
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Never mind the enviro BS (sure it's all a great swindle anyway). I was interested in the fact you could get more power from E85. Of course it wouldn't hurt that to the green heads, a vehicle running E85 appears to be saving the planet....
Woss wrong with good ole Unleaded....There is unlikely to be a viable network for E85 for years... Like LPG, engine manufacturers are not all committed to it so we are un-likely to see it in common network distritbution for a long time.....
Like BBC said a few messages back, we won't make a gnats difference while China is opening up 5 coal fired power stations per week!
We'd all be better off re-cycling to minimise landfill in Blighty (More room for off-road venues) keeping our countryside somewhat natural and wait til the new poluters of the modern world are in a position to be as riteous as us and reign back their carbon emissions....
(I'd be happier to consider doing more if the USA actually played in this game at all... Make agreements for 2020 and then promptly do nothing and even withdraw former commitments.... Yeah... (Oh my bad.. It was an election year then wasn't it... Err.. Votes or the planet...)
Neil
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Read this thread about a guy here in Ireland who converted a Nissan 200SX.
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Why don't you put all the running gear into a >30 year old Rangie and then you have a nice Range Rover with cheap tax. Or put the Rangie body & running gear onto a 30 year old Rangie chassis (like I have at teh moment) - same result - more comfort.
I have a tdi rangie and a (newly acquired, Irish registered) series 3 lwb, and am planning to combine the two for challenge events, due to the fact that the rangie will cost over £600 a year road tax, and as the series 3 is over 30yrs old, its classed as a 'vintage' and is therefore exempt from all forms of MOT/testing and its cheap to tax... (watch this space for some interesting mods!)i have a PTO winch for the series transfer box that i would like to use, so im trying to explore all possibilities...
is it possible to fit a series gear box to a 200tdi engine?
is it possible to fit a series transfer case to an lt77 gearbox?
i know that a replacement PTO dropper box for an lt77 is like hens teeth/rocking horse ****, so thats out of the question...
thanks in advance...
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What colour are your plugs?
If they are black it could be running too rich when hot (given you say that it is almost OK when cold).
Check the cold start injector - is it stuck open? It would be a quick check to squeeze of fthe line going to it when hot to see if it makes any difference.(If the 3.9 has a cold start injector? - the 3.5 does anyway)
Failing that I'd consider possibly the coolant temp sensor.
Generally I would think if it was drawing air then it would tend to run a bit hotter (from running lean) and you would also get the odd backfire.
Ok I've been whittling away at the teething problems after the initial success of my 3.5 to 3.9 transplant.In a last ditch before I take the RR to the other end of the country for new years (and then dump a specialist with the problem in shame) I write to you guys to pick your brains.
The car is still misfiring - actually chugging would be more onomatopaeic.
Heres the low down:
I've fed it new; plugs, leads, rotor and dist. cap. That made it much smoother but didn't solve the prob.
It runs perfectly at idle, and all the way through the range when at standstill but it chugs like a learner driver in the mid range once under load. It barely happens when cold (but is still noticeable) and is much much worse after sitting in traffic.
Does it sound familiar to anyone. Could it be air getting into the induction where it shouldn't? Or could it be the coil?
Does anyone have any experience with a knackered coil or knackered ignition amplifier causing symptoms like this? (or a knackered anything causing this)
Sorry for posting about it again!
Please help! I was proud that on the first startup there were no exhaust blows anywhere and all this jerking has created more then one 
George
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Interesting post that, I'd love to know where the info came from...
It came straight from the Land Rover Owner International Range rover write-up when the RR was 35 years old last year. I read it too.
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try to find some one breaking a shell and cut the bits out of that.panels are mega,thas why there all scrapped.
I really don't want to go down that road. I've done it before with other cars and I find that it is a false economy for me. Most old stuff will be rotten in the same places.
I've also spent time on other cars making some panels up from sheet metal. Again not something I want to do here except for the most basic shapes. I also don't have the time for chopping old bits so new panels are the best for me I feel.
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Hi
Following on from the previous thread about where to get RR rear wheel arch repair panels for the best price, I have a question about RR repair panels in general. Currently looking at needing at least some of the following
rear inner wheel arches, sills, A and B post bottom sections, front inner wing sections, outer rear corners, boot floor etc... all the usual spots really.
I have seen most of these on line in Craddocks, Paddocks and Rimmer Bros (won't be buying here though with their prices)
So my questions are as follows:
Where is the best place to buy these bits?
Are all these pattern parts from the same source?
I'm assuming most are spurious pattern parts - what's the fit quality like with them?
I see that for sills complete units and repair sections are available - I'm thinking that complete is the way to go?
I have noticed that the rear corners are available in fibreglass from MM4X4. Is it worth bothering with these or is it better to stick with metal items?
All info appreciated. Thanks
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Same situation as I was in a while back. I had an even smaller budget than you in mind initially.
First decision for me was whether to go for the older Boxford, Colchester type or to buy a new Chinese made one. Decided in the end to go with new because I at least knew it was new and if somthing was not happening right then it was probably down to me and not wear in the lathe. Also a lot of the 2nd hand brand name stuff is well and truly worn out when it is offered up for sale.
Then I kept looking at all the extra bits that were nice to have such as a screwcutting gearbox, large enough swing to face a 300mm brake disc, good HP motor, back gear function for low speed etc. etc. What I didn't want was to buy a lathe and then find i wanted to do something too big which wouldn't fit on it.
Basically I kept upping my budget and eventually decided on a Warco BH600 (about £1200 I think but I don't think I will grow out of it too fast. (see www.warco.co.uk) I was really happy with the decision to go with this lathe in the end. I know I would have been frustrated if I had compromised on a smaller unit.
Warco also do a lot of cheaper lathes - one to suit any budget really. I have found them very good - delivery to Ireland was relatively cheap as well.
Other snippets
All advice I came across said to stay away from the Lathe / Milling head combos.
I saw a lot of negative stuff about the Clarke unit as well so decided to stay well clear of that.
There are also two very distinct shools of thought - "old English brand names are the best & all Chinese stuff is carp" or "Why pay rip off prices for old stuff when the Chinese stuff is now as good and in some cases better"
I found that Myfords were way overpriced - and very small anyway. Undoubtaby they were good quality but not worth the extra cash in my opinion.
Have a look at Lathes.co.uk (older schools of thought here but a good general buying guide)
also do a search of this forum http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=155
for "which lathe" & "Chinese lathe & mill" etc.
Keep in mind as well that you will probably spend a lot extra on tooling - it's amazing how addictive buying this stuff is.
I have been thinking for some time about buying a smallish lathe so that I can make small pieces. I am really a little bit lost. I have a few options at the moment, and was hoping that somebody could help me through the maze. I have about £800 to spend, so was thinking about the followingClarke CL500M- £763 inc. Reasonable size (I don't have much room in the garage), parts available, milling head - I know it won't be fab, but have no room for a separate milling machine. Quality not particularly good
Chester UK model B super 3 in 1 £725 inc. Pretty much the same size as the machine mart one - parts possibly more difficult to get hold of as less popular but definately better quality. Still has the milling head, but don't really know whether I'll use it
The other options are a few different older types on ebay - was mainly thinking of the Myford ML7. I understand that it doesn't have a milling head, and that they are popular. Is this because people used them at school, and so know how they work? Also, I wouldn't really know if was buying a knackered one.
The only other option that I have at the moment is the local machining place (between Stroud and Nailsworth) sells machine tools. They have a 3 phase Boxford lathe for sale for £700 at the moment without any extras. I could get the price down to about £650, but would then have to either spend £100 on a single phase motor, or about £200 on an inverter. I think that these old types are probably better quality, so I could take a bigger cut each time. Would I be able to use the newer machines for the same thing, if I took my time?
This is my first metal working lathe, and so I don't really know what I want. I hope to learn how to do simple jobs on it, and use it for a bit of fun really.
Help please........
LR content - want to make some bits for the 90, of course....
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Don't think it should blow a fuse. If you reverse the polarity the pump would just run in reverse....
Thanks guys - no I have her turning over, thats now sorted.RE the fuel pump - I had it off to resolder the live wire into the top of it - but there was signs of corrosion at the terminals so I pulled both wires off cut them back a bit and resoldered them both on.
I distinctly remember going 'oh carp which way around were they' and came to what I thought was a fairly sure conclusion.
Now I'm thinking I must have gotten them mixed up, what I'm relaly asking is if I have actually reversed the polarity would the symptoms be an instantly blown fuse?
I'm such a dumbass
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If they aren't there then I presume not. I'll try post them here - failing that I can email them to a mod to put up...
Excellent - thank you very much.
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SCORE!
I just got the fitting instructions for the Range Rover/LT95 Fairey Overdrive unit from Superwinch (good people)
I was given the contact by Phil at PG Winches (more really good people) and Phil is going to put the instructions on his site (good site) for all to see...
keep an eye on http://www.winchrepairs.co.uk/
result no?
Did these fitting instructions ever get posted? - I can't seem to find them on the mentioned site.
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Mercedes SL's, BMW 8 series, 6 series, I'm sure there's other convertibles and coupes too.
Steve
E46 (2000 on) 3 series BMW convertibles also have them - looking for a set of these myself for a 2 door Range Rover. Appear on e-bay from time to time - lots are electric though which I don't want.
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Just googled Old Sodbury - never heard of it before!
Looks brilliant. Pity theres about 300 miles and the Irish Sea between me an it so if I found a pair they'd cost me about €302
Good to know about the meet though... oh and lovin your RR, looks the biz - making me wonder whether I'll white up my tyre lettering or not
Where in Ireland are you located?
I've a '73 as well in Ireland and my plan is to fit the EFI hardware but fit Megasquirt instead of the original electronics. I've been looking for a cheap source for the EFI hardware but anything on E-Bay seems to go for more than I'd buy a whole Range Rover for (which I would do but - getting it back to Ireland is always the issue)
Please help! I was proud that on the first startup there were no exhaust blows anywhere and all this jerking has created more then one 
OM606 Range Rover Classic Restoration and Build
in Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects
Posted
Just came across this thread myself. Fabulous work as expected given the work done on the cars. Have been following your Gordon Murray Escort videos. I'm putting an OM606 turbo into a 1986 Merc S124 myself at present but I also have a RR Classic needin restoration and this is making me think seriously now about a Merc engine for that as well.