FOS1

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I was looking at the Bosch pump web sites and i found this. Its for the Dodge Ram but its the same Bosch pump that Landrover use. Have a look, see what you think. I found it easy to understand (well its for the yanks so it had to be easy)and it all works.www.dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/more_power/Power_ve.htm

For the guys that told me that it could be the U/J on the prop......thanks you were correct. The U/J on the front prop is just about totaly destroyed. Question: Are the U/J's on the rear prop the same? I have 2 spair U/J's from a rear prop, boath the rear and the front props splines are plastic coated so am thinking they will be the same but you can bet your last quid am wrong Thanks again guys Paul@donny Oh and while i think on: i live about 2 minutes away from the off road place at Bawtry and i've never seen it open? It's not quite at Bawtry it's on HURST LANE, Auckley (Auckley as in the old R.A.F Camp)...where Hurst Lane meets Bawtry Road, but when is it ment to be open......some locals have told me its open every weekend???? Paul@donny

Thanks for that Rob....am doing it today so i'll let you know

Well i dont know about Land Rovers ability to build cars but i think its about as good as it gets. Mines done over 285k and there was nothing wrong with the engine but i had to change it through my own stupid fault. It went through the MOT last year first time and i had done next to nothing for it to do that. At the age that mine is i do expect things to start going wrong, but i bet you now when my Merc' gets that old it will have been in the scrap yard a long time. Its old but its paid for. I could not do without it. Only a few weeks ago i took a lorry gear box to the south of Italy with it and i got about 29MPG. Its over the fields every day going to the horse it pulls a horse box i use it for work so its full of tools every day......what more could you ask for in a car of this age. I was reading somewhere that over 98% of Land Rover parts made are been used today on another Land Rover in one way or another today, so re-cycling is also a good point for it as well. I know they have their faults but nothing is megger money to put right. A little bit of welding.......thats nothing. Am sorry if i've gone a bit but come on if you didnt like Land Rovers you wouldnt have one. Paul@donny

Thanks for the replys guys, but last night i may have found out what the problem was. I had to change my pants when it happened. One of the rear (off side) lower link arms broke. Well not the arm but the bracket thats welded to the axel has broke free fron the axel. I think that maybe over the past few weeks its been rubbing a little untill it broke free, and thats the noise i could hear. I could be wrong but thats what it's looking like. Has any one else had one of the brackets brake free before. I called Paddock today and they are cheep enough at £7.05 and they have over 100 in stock. Now is that telling me that they can not sell them or is that telling me that its a common fault? Thanks again to you all Paul@donny

Hummm.....food for thought. I've just replaced the hand break cable.....about the time the squeak started. Prop was of then..... time to give it a good coat of looking at Thanks

Hi all, i have an old disco 1 tdi. It's started to make an annoying squeak when am driving. It starts at about 10 mph and stops at about 55/60mph. The strange thing is that it only does it when the engine is under load. As soon as you let your foot of the gas it stops. I know it's nothing to do with the enging cos i only fitted it about 2 weeks ago and the noise was there with the old engine. The aut' p/s/p, water pump & injector/pump are from the old engine. It could be any of the above but it could be something else. But it's an expencive job changing everything to fault find. It's not got worse but it's not got better. The noise is loud, and it is not there when your not moving (if you rev the engine when stood it's not there this tells me it could be something with the drive train) Has anyone come across this before? Any thoughts? Thanks Paul@Donny

Has anyone put the disco 300 dash into the 200? A few people in the know have told me that it carnt be done but have they even tryed? I have an 'L' reg 200 tdi that runs and looks great. I dont wish to get rid of the old girl but it does look a little dated. So i have put the 300 lights and grill on and it looks better by far but has anyone put or even tryed to put the 300 dash in? CAN IT BE DONE? Any help is better than no help - Thanks guys Paul@Donny

well thanks for the offer of taking the V8 off me pw8757 but there is nothing wrong with the lump its only covered 86K and i have sold it. I think what i need to do is swop my 200tdi for a 300 diesel engine and auto box, then there is no messing about. Thanks to all that have replyed Paul@donny

i think then apart from selling them i would be better to put the 200 manual box in as well as the 200 tdi engine. Saves all that messing about

Hi all Is it possible to put a 200tdi engine into a 300 v8 petrol? I have a good 200 tdi engine and manual box and i have a 300 v8 3.9 Auto. I would like to remove the V8 from the 300 and put in my 200 diesel onto the V8 auto box. I know the engine mountings are diffrent thats not a problem as i can cut them on the 200 but what other problems could i come across. And i would like to keep the 300 auto box. Boath disco's have 11 months MOT and run good but the price of petrol and at 18 MPG the 3.9 has got to go but i like the 300 better than the 200 so can you see what i would like to do. Has any one done this before and do you know where there might be a few photos of a good 'talk through' that i could use? Thanks for any help you can give. Paul @ Donny

I have had the same problem with my 200tdi. It got to be a real pain in the a***. What it boiled down to was ait. I thought it was all out and it was when i beld the systen but................it wasnt First you need a short piece of clear fuel line. Cut the black fuel line between the injector pump and the fuel filter. Put the clear piece of fuel pipe in. That way you can see if there is air coming in from the fuel filter. If there is then the filter houseing need replaceing. If there is no air there then do the same just before the fuel filter. I did mine just before the filter on the bulk head. Thats where the air was....before the filter. So that could be one of 2 problems. The first could be the pick up pipe in the tank. There about £100 new but look for a good second hand one for about 10 quid. But on mine it was the sed' filter at the side of the tank. Easy to sort out. Take the filter of the tank, 2 nuts and bolts, then simply cut the fuel line that supplys the filter and the pipe that comes from the filter to the fuel filter on the bulk head. Join the 2 pipes togather with a short pipe and then use tie wraps to secure the pipe. Job done. Esay job to sort out a big fault.

I have just had my computer formated......and i have lost the RAVE that i downloaded. I have a look for a download link on this site but carnt find it. I know its here so can anyone help me find the little monkey. If you see it please do tell where you saw it last. Thanks Paul@donny

She's passed first time. My old girl went through the MOT no problem. First time with very little work done before just all the usual checks...lights and things. My disco 1 is a 1983 tdi. Talk about a shock.....i couldnt stop smiling at the MOT guy.....he must have thought i was [politically incorrect comment deleted] or something. Then the very next day me and the wife went up to the Isle of Sky, at about 75mph on the motorways. Thats 1342 miles with out so much as a cough splutter or even a fart. She pulled about 30mpg.

Hi all. When i have been towing the horse box or been on the motorway at 70m.p.h for an hour or so the gear box becomes very stiff when i slow down or stop. Its really hard work to change gear. Its a manual box (LT77) It becomes hard work untill it cools down. I have been told its overheating. I dont want the expence of fitting an oil cooler, but what else can i do. It ok for oil and its just been renewed and the oil in the transfer box has been done too, wth auto box oil? (that i dont understand) There is nothing wrong with the box when its not been on a long run or its towing.

Moring all. I have a disco 200, 2.5 diesel. Can any one help me. The swivel pin oil seals are having trouble holding back one shot greese, never mind oil. It looks like they are 'pitted'. So its time to replace them. Can any one tell me where i can get the kits from, including the swivels, at handy money. Paddocks sell them at 60 quid, but i have seen so much bad press about brit parts stuff so i dont think i will bother going down that road. Also when i changed the cam belt on her, i looked on this site and found a link to 'step by step' instructions, including photographs, socket size, and very easy to follow instructions, that someone had posted here, and it made the job really easy. Is there something on here the same as that only for the swivel pins? I have had a look but can not find anything Thanks for help in advance. Paul @ Donny

Thanks bogmonster it is a 200 with the 300 lights and grill on it. There is no paint code on the plate under the bonnet on the slam pannel. Where is says colour its just blank ?? If there is no EKA code do you know how to by pass the immobiliser as its becoming a real pain in the backside. Sometimes it will turn of and let me start it and sometimes it will just immobilise the starter?? Thanks for any help you can give me in advance.

I went to my local Land Rover dealer to get the paint code and EKA code. I gave them the log book for the VIN number. They put it into their computer and told me that there was no information at all for this car. Yes its there on the computer but it only tells them thats its a 200 tdi discovery? Where do i go from here????????any help - Thanks guys

yes it is possible to swop the 300 on to the 200. I have just done it with my 200. The wings are the same, but the 300 wings have a little 'tab' on them to hold the plastic trim in place that sits below the headlight. There is no need to mess about changing th 'slam pannel'. some say you need to change it to fit the larger headlights in. I didnt. I just took the grinder and made the holes for the rear of the head lights bigger then made my own brackets, and you can still adjust the lights when i had done. It was not hard.

Hi all. Today i was to replace the grease nipples on the front & rear props. Easy enough job.....untill i hit a little problem. The front prop had to be removed. The last time that i did anything to any prop, it split into 2 parts, via the splined shaft. You could use man power to split the shaft. I could not split it without the use of a big hammer. Then after much hammering and it parted, i decided to put a complete new end on. UJ / Yoke and spline shaft - complete. I had to do the same again. Put the hammer to work. I thought the splined shaft was supposed to move togather and apart easy to allow for movement in the springs and load ect. There is some kind of plastic/nylon coating on the shaft but it looks like that is supposed to be there. There is plenty of grease in there so its not stuck in the prop. My question is.........should the spline shaft move in and out with little effort? and why wont mine and how can i correct this. Over a period of time i would have thought this been unable to move will cause some dammage somewhere?. I have had to re-build the prop and put it back......with it been Sunday i can not replace it if thats what it needs. Thanks.

I forgot to tell i's a Disco 200 - 2.5 diesel 'L' reg.

Morning all. If you only knew what time i was messing around with my disco this morning !!! Daft o'clock !!! The immobilizer is playing at silly buggers. It started playing up about 4 weeks ago, so off i went and had 2 new battries fitted in the key fob. The key fob is a 1 button type. Its like a rocker switch. Thats fine, and the red light comes on as it should. The problem is with the immobilizer. When it first happened i had just jet washed it under the bonnet and the wheel archers. But i had left it running , so it was 'ok' untill i turned it of and locked it later. That was it......the key fob did nothing. If i unlocked the door with the key the alarm just went of. So it was left to stand for a few days then it worked fine, and i never thought any more about it. Then on Saturday i jet washed the wheel archers and it decided to do the same again. It would not unlock, or turn the alarm of with the key fob. The AA came out, after an hour, and he pressed the key fob and the bugger worked......made me look a right fool !! He did test the key fob and told me that it worked 'ok' but it was a little week. Then just last night i went through a big puddle and turned it of about 3 minutes later and locked it. Then at 04.30 this morning about to go to work, and guess what..........locked out of it. the key fob did nothing and the alarm went of when i opened the doors with the key. One good thing has come out of this.....i get a day off work. So i take it the alarm is somewhere behind the wing? But how do i turn the alarm of for good, and is it possible to turn it of but be able to still use the key fob to unlock the doors? Or is there an easer way around this? I know i have gone on a bit about this but its now doing my 'cake' in. Thanks for any help - Paul @ Donny.

Thanks Bri.......i can wait....ive been looking on ebay and they range from 40 quid up to 70 quid. Am not paying that when i can make one. I have made one, some time ago, from an old roof rack, but it looked a right bugger. The ones that you can go to the shop and get look ok but wheres the fun in that? Would it be easer if you had my e mail address to send me the pics? Here it is anyway - fos1@hotmail.co.uk Thanks mate