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turbomangler

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Everything posted by turbomangler

  1. Read my first post !! I said the pads where from another landy model !!! Never said they where from a disco one .
  2. Ok i,m talking about enlarging an hole out by possibly 1mm i,ve been in engineering i n one form or another for almost thirty years and i have no hesitation about doing this. On the other had how many people on this forum are driving about in landys with waffer thin and badly patched up chasiss/rear cross members and don,t even bat an eyelid about it . Now thats an accident waiting to happen. I am 100% happy to do this mod so no more negativaty please DOES ANYONE KNOW THE PADS I AM LOOKING FOR ???
  3. Ok bollocking over for not doing my weekly inspections. And yes i am a tight arse and try to save money !! I,m pretty sure that later calipers will not fit early axles as the bolt sizes are different so will not fit without doing " dangerous modifications" by drilling the mounting holes to suit the different size bolts !! Thats not what i wanted to do anyway. Now back to my original question . Does anyone know of the rear pads i need ??? As the disco i was looking at yesterday had this " modification " done. Steve.
  4. Hi I was told yesterday that its possible to fit later rear brake pads into 200 series disco calipers to stop the pads dropping. The existing pin holes in the caliper need to be enlarged and the appropriate pads and pin kit fitted so the pins pass thru the pad instead of just cover them. I have just done the same job on my front calipers, WHAT I need to know is what model land rover the pads I need for the rear calipers are fitted to as standard then I can get a set ordered . I was told possibly 110 fitted with Salisbury rear axle ??? Has anyone already done this modification and can tell me the pads and pin kit I need ?? Look forward to your comments. Steve.
  5. yep that does explain it, what i,m a little confused about now is the fact that about 2 weeks ago one of my posts got some serius critisism, i believe from the moderators, about a reply where "text language " had been used . this critisim was because using bad grammer was setting a bad example to foreign members and younger members !! yet 9 out of 10 posts i read on hear uses abbreviations that i don,t know the meaning of and i,m 100% british and in my 40,s . so if any moderators are reading this shouldn,t they be critisising this just the same ?? or are there 2 sets of guidelines for this using forum ??
  6. whats IIRC mean ??? also on the subject of abbreviations whats imho mean ??
  7. hope when you build your own , it turns out prettier than this one !! bend the sheet metal and put some shape into it instead of all the sharp angles this ones got . Turbomangler.
  8. still waiting for dimensions ! i find it very hard to believe no one out there has got the sizes i need !!!
  9. i don,t know where 30 quid has popped up from i haven,t seen them at this price 40 is nearer the mark , but reguardless 40 x 2 its now 80 quid that a days wage for me n i know i can knock up a pair of these in less than a day !! is it still not worth making my own people ?? and as for your A bar made out of 5mm plate , most people will probably think 5mm is a bit extreme for an A bar , but i guess you are like me make it strong and make it to last !. when i have made my outriggers i know they will be made to out last the replacement ones which i have not yet seen for 30 quid . just the same as the rearcross member i have already made from 5mm plate will last longer and be stronger . why buy something i can make myself ???
  10. don,t know if people take me for a knobhead or not but as i said i,m a fabricator / welder and i feel a bit insulted that somebody might think for a second that i would even dream of making a set of bulkhead out riggers from 40x 40 box !!! when i said box section it does actually come in sizes bigger than 40x40 / 50x50 etc and as i work with the stuff alday 500x300 etc i,m sure i can find an offcut of the stuff that will be strong enougth for the job altho i do admit 500x300 may be a bit over the top !!!
  11. i don,t have a problem with how to swap them , what i,m asking is does anyone have a sketch and dimensions for them so that i can make a pair up . i don,t want to purchase something i can make myself. Turbomangler
  12. don,t know what "frugal nature " means but as to" why don,t i build a king cab" simple answer is ( i think i,m going to get some critisism on this !) i think they look totally stupid ! , but thats only my opinion of course. either go the truck cab route or hard top , i think even the factory king cabs look too "home made " its just something about the rear end of the roof that doesn,t look right. Turbomangler.
  13. ok mate point taken but i didn,t realise that the original post by happyoldgit was aimed at me , i thought it was aimed at the reply i got , i just found it quite amuseing at the time , a grown bloke being told how to write something. but as i said point taken. end of winge . Turbomangler.
  14. so in theory you should be able to use the rear panel from a series 2/3 on a defender rear tub and fit a defender truck cab roof ??
  15. i know the difference between a defender truck cab and a series truck cab roof is obviously the shape at the front for the windscreen but is the overall size the same ?? what i was wondering is would the rear cab section ( the bit with the curved corner windows and the slideing rear window ) from a series truck cab be a straight swap for a defender one , ??? even tho they have different rear sliding windows . anybody know ??? Turbomangler.
  16. ok no problem, but i read a thread the other day from some one from norway or denmark and could not understand most of it , now that cannot be good for younger members can it ?? i am 45 years old or young ?? am i classed as a younger member or an older member ??
  17. sorry my mistake when you said wings i assumed "front wings ".i was planning to do it the way you describe , no welding but just replace the spotwelds with pop rivets. .when i shortened a series 3 109 to 88" i cut down thru the body sides behind the tub bulk head then on the tub drilled thru the spot welds and removed the full panel. removed the rear panel ,and mounted this and the tub bulkhead temperally in place with braces fastened in then offered up the panel to see where to cut , shortened the panel then pop riveted it back in place using the holes where i drilled out the spot welds ( when i drilled the welds i used a 5mm drill and went thru both panels rather than use a spot weld cutter then i used a sharpened power hacksaw blade as a thin splitting cheisel to split what was left of the weld , this worked easily and only left a 5mm hole which i could use for the pop rivet rather than an 8 ish mm hole that a spot weld cutter would have left) the rear join was hidden under the corner capping and the front was overlapped onto what was left of the side where it had been cut riveted verticle down the side and the edge of the panel beaten around the corner of the door opening . altho this added a few millimeters to the width of the body at the front the finished job looked very tidy once the body cappings had been shortened and fixed back on and was very hard to tell it had been done ( unless you picked up on the fact there where pop rivets where there shouldn,t have been!!) if i use 110 bodywork i will use the same procedure again, but i,m hopeing as i have 2 lots of 90 bodywork, a good one and a bad one i,m hopeing i will be able to do something similar using the front of the bad one for the tub bulk head and maybe about 300mm of the sides and the good one with the bulkhead removed and then joined to the other front section (hopefully i won,t have to alter the rear overhang either doing it this way!) just not sure till i come to do this what the join will look like as i cannot hide it in the door area like i can if i use 110 bodywork ??? the roof would also be harder to lengthen rather than shorten, even more so as one of my roof panels is an early one with ribs outside and the other has the ribs on the inside !!! maybe i can use my 90 tubs but have to get a 110 roof ?? anyone in the yorkshire area got any surplus 110 bodywork tub and or roof?? condition not too important but must be cheap ??? Turbomangler.
  18. mmm, l personally wouldn,t even think about a bolt in crossmember, it just doesn,t sound right to me. but every body has their own opinion. can anyone scan the LRO feature and either post on here or email them to me please ???
  19. not really sure what you mean about moveing the wings ?? the bulkhead both main one and the bulkhead for the rear tub can only fit in the proper positions , the alterations have to be made on the tub sides.
  20. yep that will be usefull for the future, been looking thru other forums and made a note of this allready , up to now i,ve got 3 different measurements !! maybe i should take an average of all 3 and then just guess!! LOL.
  21. hi, does anyone have a sketch and dimensions to make a pair of bulkhead outriggers for a defender ??? i know these are readily available to buy as replacements , but being a fabricator/welder i don,t fancy buying something i can make myself !! i,m not bothered about them being identical copies of the originals, for a 100" project, they just need to have the bolt hole in the correct place and be strong enougth to do the job. i,m thinking to start off with a piece of rectangular section and work from there. can anyone help ?? Turbomangler
  22. that sounds like a plan , can anyone point me to a link on them ???
  23. thats really intresting feature , the sort of thing i,m looking for . has anyone seen something like this showing how a roof can be shortened ??? Turbomangler.
  24. don,t buy LRO very often , could anyone scan them or something and put a link on , i,m sure that would be of help to other forum members as well as myself . cheers Turbomangler.
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