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V8 Freak

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Everything posted by V8 Freak

  1. My assumptions were basic Rich.... If there is no hydraulic pressure, the OD won't engage. Therefore the normal / default drive mode must be reliant on the springs holding the brake/clutch cone firmly in one position (locking the sun gear and annulus) and that state being changed when the hydraulic pressure forces the brake/clutch cone into position on the opposite surface (Sun gear locked stationary - forcing drive through the planetary gears / changed gearing) The hydraulic pressure is quoted to be over 400 psi, so should overcome the springs quite easily, even if the spring rate is increased.....
  2. The fact it slipped at the first move of the day would suggest it's not hydraulic.... Sometimes just dipping the clutch and going again solved it for days. Hence focus on the springs eventually... (As well as the extensive overhaul...) I was wondering if there was a way to pack the springs and add a little extra force to them for testing?
  3. Back in 2011 / 2012 ish, I read bout the TK102 that Si Rafferty had hidden in his truck. I bought one and installed it, and although now in a different truck, it's still going strong. It might be limited by the GSM network but costs me something like £10 per month for the text only SIM to have a little piece of mind. There is a small App written by a member on here (Called TKController) that can be used to control the commands easily. So when parked up at home, or anywhere new overnight, I set a virtual fence and if broken the unit sends me texts with locations every 30 seconds and calls me to alert me to the fact it's passed through the fence.... You can wire in an immobiliser if you wish and I believe even a panic style button to send messages to numbers in it's list. When my battery ran low while back it even started to text me to warn me it's battery was low.... If it were stolen, I can give the number to the police and they can get regular location texts just by sending a basic command... So they "could" track the vehicle. I'd guess that Skytag and the likes have software that plots these types of messages and produces the breadcrumb trail and do the legwork in liaison with the police. For a cheap option, I'd happily recommend a TK unit of some sort.
  4. Although already under pressure when fitting the nuts to the spring retainers, it may be worth trying spacers / washers under the nuts to add a little more spring pressure and see if it make the difference you are looking for?
  5. I've pretty much replaced all but the case itself at one point... Rich is right, the oil pressure isn't used when not in Overdrive mode as far as I can work out... Therefore, the springs are important to keep the pressure on the brake cone and give you normal drive. When the solenoid is activated, it pumps oil to move the brake cone to lock the internals and force the drive through the three planetary gears. It should just be clamping pressure from the springs needed for normal drive. So unless oil pressure is getting by the solenoid and acting against the spring pressure, it "should work".
  6. Well George... It's official.. You have a lawn mower... Great to see it running so sweet.....
  7. I was only thinking out loud while typing Ralph.... Filters, springs, brake media, spragg clutch "should" all be ok.. So the only thing that came to mind was suitable fluid pressure to force the cone to act as a brake and route the drive torque through the planetary gears.... (If my recollection is right, spragg is only really a reverse safeguard!) Therefore if filters are clear it could point to potential wear in the pump mechanism?
  8. If you're going onside, here's a pic of the brake / clutch material for comparison to new... And the obligatory pic of the new spragg clutch.. And springs... Might be worth checking the piston that generates the oil pressure? I'm assuming it needs oil pressure to hold the brake / clutch material into the Overdrive position to make drive go through the planetary gears? (Effectively the cone is a brake not a clutch) Or do as Rich suggests and build one from the best parts of both?
  9. Sorry to see this Ralph.... After new clutch / brake material, springs, filter and spragg clutch it was behaving itself until it ran low on oil. As I explained before, we only discovered the oil leak once we made camp that night and it was taken out that evening. It wasn't slipping all the time.. Only on a few occasions but once we discovered the leak it was safest to remove it.... It sat un-touched in the box as you got it for two years.... I believed it to be in good order but didn't have any vehicle to fit it to...
  10. Hi, I’m lucky to have a friend with a farm who let me install a 4 post Koni ramp. It’s served us well for nearly 10 years now but the uprights are in need of a lick of paint. (And remove some surface rust) Where I could do with your help is to find replacement stickers that are a requirement of the farm annual safety assessment. I've done weeks of searching online, I’ve written to Stertil Koni but they aren’t being very helpful. (They want me to upgrade !) Can anyone suggest how I might get replacements? Thanks in advance ....
  11. Ralph, The OD did have a history of slipping and as a result it had new brake / clutch material & new springs, filter etc. Last time it was used it was under Mo's truck and was fine all the way down through Europe for approx. 1k miles. It slipped a little when one day and we discovered it was leaking atf from around the solenoid, so for safety sake, we removed it for the remainder of the trip as the atf was low and we didn't have any to hand. (Or a way of sensibly sealing around the solenoid.) As discussed with you when selling it to you, it hadn't been used since then and I have no reason to suspect anything was wrong with the drive.
  12. I agree with Badger... Looks like aftermarket connections... Standard Land Rover ones have more of an econoseal look and are only two pin...
  13. Yes.. There may have been some room to play with but I was using the original top of the single din unit as a guide. The switches and connectors come down a surprisingly long way!
  14. This evening after a day and a bit of "cooking" the facia in the airing cupboard, I hoped it was set enough to handle and fit the switches back in etc. And then to fit it all into the truck... All working and now I'll have a few days figuring out how to use it....
  15. @PaulMc Do you know what these are?
  16. Oh no... Don't get upset Ross.. Just crack on and show us some more updates....
  17. Yes Ross. Read out messages etc and mirror nav apps like Waze and Google maps. Less distraction or temptation to read messages etc. Don’t worry... They will be smaller and higher spec when your 90 needs one
  18. The unit is a JVC KW-M745DBT Mudstuff are selling them but they are £10 cheaper in Halfrauds...
  19. With JVC having launched a mech-less double din head unit and the reviews being quite good, I decided it was time to bite the bullet and see if we couldn't make it fit into the 90.... Pull the dash apart to reveal dust from various parts of Europe.... Then set to some hacking.... The insert section was always a poor fit, so I decided to use some clear Gorilla Glue I had in the cupboard to bond it in... One edge sat proud so clamped overnight.... Some filling and hacking later..... I decided to fill the recess to sit the unit on the surface of the dash, mainly because I couldn't figure out how to make a recessed landing point to match the original.... The insert was still quite proud so that needed leveling with the DA sander. Quite a few fills and hacks later, using my favorite tool..... Time to key the paint and get a cover of colour back onto the panel... Problem..... Gorilla Glue reacted with the paint.... So.. Leave it all to dry, hack out the bad stuff and decide the only course of action is to fill the gap with the bad glue... While that was drying, a few wires to sort in the truck and a quick test run.... Then back in for some more sanding..... And a little while later after general 1000 grit smoothing... More paint... It's not perfect, but a few more coats on from this picture most of the little pits have been filled and it's looking ok. I plan to leave it to cure for a few days now and get the compressed air into the dash area, clean out some dust and add more lightness....
  20. I discovered similar in my drivers door in 2015..... Rather than strip the door and welding I grabbed a bit of metal and made a temporary repair.... And it's still going strong !!! Not managed to find the time to sort it properly yet and last time I looked it was still all in the same place I left it...
  21. Personally I think going to a tdi is a massive step backwards.... The TD5 in standard form has plenty of low down torque and revs really happily past 4k... I don't know how you quantify a good used head... Was the head tested in any way? Was it totally flat? I've put over 100k on my engine since I got it and it's ran really well. I had an issue with the cam hardening failing on the injector cam and replaced the head for speed more than anything and the internals looked really good while the top was off. If the head is good, the correct head gasket used, new bolts and the correct clamping procedure used, I see no reason why the gasket should blow so soon. I'd take the time to check the oil pump (pressure) to make sure oil is getting to and through any head fitted. But if it's not overheated and nothing wrong with the oil circulation, I can see no reason why is should blow. What symptoms do you have that lead you to the conclusion of a blown head gasket?
  22. Glad you didn't trash it after all the work George.... Did feel for you when I watched it though.....
  23. I looked for a while Ross and didn't smell any Spam.... None of the links in the link seem to be sellers from the Ukraine..... How did you conduct your Spam testing?
  24. That's a good update.. I had looked at those rods for some time.... If you feel the need I have a spare floor panel for the RRC if you feel yours needs replacing at any point... Just the distance that is the barrier though...
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