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V8 Freak

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Everything posted by V8 Freak

  1. That's a good update.. I had looked at those rods for some time.... If you feel the need I have a spare floor panel for the RRC if you feel yours needs replacing at any point... Just the distance that is the barrier though...
  2. Our garage door is similar to Peaklanders.... Cost installed was round £1400 I think.... Or how about sliding doors to maximise space in the roof and floor etc. ave them opening along the right hand wall ....
  3. Hi There.... Black fluid would suggest worn clutch master / slave rubbers wearing. Probably sensible to change both master and slave at the same time and adjust your pedal height as per Haynes / Land Rover manual when re-fitted.
  4. I was kinda assuming the same as @Anderzander..... Ctek provide the fly-leads which suggests they don't expect you to isolate the battery !! I'd have a go Mo and get a friendly man with a yellow van to check the battery status now and after several sessions on the charger...
  5. It might be worth viewing this series of video's for other ideas and ways of checking items.... (Covers crank sensor testing, fuel pressure, fuel pump etc.) It might help to systematically eliminate things you have reviewed and explain how to test others. It doesn't cover the alarm system however... ;(
  6. Great news and thanks for letting us know it was the solution.
  7. Agree with your assessment of the starter. Have you checked the starter relay? Row of relays just above the fuses in the cab. 2nd or 3rd in from left dependant on vehicle spec. All the yellow ones are the same so you can swap to test if needed. Simple check is fuse cover removed, fingers on the relays and turn the key and feel if the relay click? If not, it’s either the relay or something else breaking the circuit, potentially your secondary alarm system.
  8. When all attached the first stage is does it crank. If not then you need to focus on getting it to crank first.. (Obvs it won't run if you can't crank ) The shiny bits get all blackened as they arc over time... Easy enough to access and clean.. (Refurb kits available on the interweb.)
  9. My head is thinking this is more than one issue. If we assume the loom is good, crank sensor is good, assume the secondary alarm / immobiliser is not broken and we know ECU and associated is good.... It could be this... Starter solenoid needs a rebuild. It started randomly after fiddling then stopped and won't crank. What if the stopping was fuel starvation and now the starter solenoid contacts are stuck again? (So won't crank) Process of elimination I'd follow. Remove starter and clean the contact surfaces in the solenoid. This is well documented and is not too hard to do even lying under the truck with a basic socket set. When replaced... Does it crank. If yes.... Did it start? If no, purge the fuel system several times. Try again. If still cranking but not starting, remove the inertia switch connectors and short across the plug connections with a bit of wire. Try again. Check the crank sensor wires are connected.....
  10. Errrr..... Many years since I changed mine ! Did these parts get taken out when the housing was switched ? I would be tempted to go with book and fit the new valve in the space of the orange thing If you can purge ok and it starts and runs, then take it for a run and warm it up. If it doesn’t purge, doesn’t run then time to re-think.
  11. A guess would be air in the system... There is a little air bleed valve (part number WJN500110) that may have been disturbed when you changed the fuel filter housing.... Needs to be in the right hole and fitted correctly... This is known to affect warm starting. Have a look here....
  12. Hello and welcome to the forum.... I'm hoping someone like @Hybrid_From_Hell will pop in at some point and share his views on this..... He's quite familiar with differentials and lockers etc...
  13. Hi there and welcome to the forum.... I ran a "Roamerdrive" for several years behind a TD5 that had some gentle modifications.... (VGT Turbo, much bigger intercooler, Re-mapped ECU, custom air intake and exhaust to help it all breathe properly) It coped admirably and is about to begin part two of it's life under another members vehicle being used for some long trips around Europe etc... On Paper my engine at peak was probably at the OD's limit, if not above, but I rarely drove it to limits and I doubt you will regularly be on full boost at peak torque etc. With your modifications I can't envisage your engine being any trouble for the Overdrive. Go for it.. They are a wonderful piece of kit... I only removed mine as I converted my truck to an auto....
  14. Before finishing the original post I too thought starter then saw "it cut out" phrase.... That could literally be anything... What else, if anything did you touch when changing the oil? It's usually something in the actions you went through... If you changed the diesel filter... Did you purge properly to expel air etc.?
  15. I would suggest you try and identify if you have a bent axle or not. I used a length of braising wire to check the distance between the front and rear of the rims of the front wheels. I suggest you do this simple check to see if your wheels at the front are parallel or near to it. If one is wildly out it could be pulling the string away from the front of the rear tyre but it would need to be something severely wrong to pull it away 15mm from one edge of the rear tyre. I'd also do a check on the rear axle as this should also help t see if the rear axle is bent... (Edit - You posted at the same time as me... Definitely need to shorten the drag link )
  16. I'd start by hammering Google and doing some reading... https://smartexpat.com/portugal/how-to-guides/transport/driving/importing-a-car https://europa.eu/youreurope/citizens/vehicles/registration/formalities/portugal/index_en.htm https://www.angloinfo.com/how-to/portugal/transport/vehicle-ownership/vehicle-roadworthiness https://ravingretirees.com/importing-a-car-to-portugal/ The last one refers to a certificate of conformity to show the vehicle hasn't been modified !
  17. Slap an L322 around it and you'll feel right at home !!
  18. I’m up near Cambridge and not planned down your way for a while. Yes, td5 engine..
  19. What connections does the HP22 (Not E) have electronically? Just the Reverse light switch? On my TD5 loom, the reverse light switch connector is near the front of the seat box... If you can figure out what section that could be on the bench it might help. It's passenger side and the connector in this image is the one near the breather. Diff-lock further back as the loom goes across the top of the transfer box and into the drivers seat box. (Where the ECU resides)
  20. Yes, HP22 E but a rebuilt one from Ashcroft. I'm using Compushift and the latest firmware upgrade lets me lock the torque converter in 3rd and 4th so it can be configured to change gear and lock the TC at different speeds / throttle positions. Where are you based? I'm happy to show you the install and how it ll works if you like. Regards engine management... Have a chat with Nigel (Excess4x4 also known as @Hybrid_From_Hell) on here as he's got a lot of experience with Megasquirt... That can happily run a Rover V8... (I had a version running on my 4.6 in the old 110.... Worked very well.) Others who are virtual guru's on Megasquirt are @FridgeFreezer and @Bowie69
  21. I may be wrong, but I suspect that since the TD5 Defender wasn't made with an automatic variant, it won't be included in the loom. There is a reverse light switch and difflock as standard on the manual, so would assume there are wires for this! What you really need to figure out is if the Range Rover gearbox ECU was very intelligent or just did a basic map across of MAP / Throttle and potentially speed? The relationship in the D2 links speed transducer, that fed SLABS which fed speedo and TD5 ECU.... All linked. (And reliant on the TD5 ECU) It my just be simpler to bite the bullet and go Compushift as this will run as a stand alone gearbox controller. (As fitted in my Auto TD5 Defender with ZF HP22)
  22. Something not right with the links Rich.... Anyone else getting the same or is it my work Firewall having a play?
  23. If the wire waggling doesn't work, make sure you are getting power to the started trigger wire when the key is turned... (The wired to the starter solenoid on a spade connector) Assuming it is live when the key is turned to the crank position, then it could be the internal workings of the solenoid stuck... They are known to arc out. Not a hard job to do.. Nut on top of the starter is a fun one to get back on.... Kits are available to replace the contacts and piston.... Tapping the started on the solenoid housing might get you another start or two... If arc'ing is bad it will get stuck again... Neil
  24. Are we talking about these type of rods?
  25. Let me know if you need a pit stop Monday evening when passing the Royston area John.... Can always put the kettle on
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