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V8 Freak

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Everything posted by V8 Freak

  1. Nanocom should show the live switch inputs and show the change when the pedal is depressed. I believe the circuit needs to be closed for CC to work, so try removing the connectors from the switch on the clutch master cylinder and short between the two connectors and go for a drive. Does Nanocom show your brake switch changing state when you depress the pedal? (Do your brake lights work !!)
  2. I think it's been said, but open the top and inspect the cam and followers for the injectors before you keep cranking.... 13 small bolts... Doesn't take long! Doesn't sound like an injector not firing, sounds very metallic from the recording !
  3. We were supposed to come out of the garage??
  4. It's a simple loom to make.... Regards Dakota Digital, I'll look but I've already got a Speedohealer although it's now surplus to requirements a I have my ECU map amended to change the coding for the ratio change.
  5. If you can get 20% more blades in there, balanced and triggering the sensor it might work... Do you know which parts are D2 and which are Defender? Sounds like engine & gearbox loom is D2... Main vehicle loom TD5? If you have a look at the black plug on the Engine ECU and see if the Cruise wires are in there already? It'll still be a case of finding where they pop out at the other end if they do... In a D2 they are are routed to the binnacle / steering column....
  6. I don't think any Defenders had the wiring as standard. If you are using the Disco loom, are you using the Disco clocks as well? I ask because the Disco pulse rate is double the Defender one from the transfer box sender..... The ECU is fed it's information from the clocks...... So you need to know what you've got to stand any chance of getting the Cruise to work... I don't know what blades you are talking about to answer the last part.... Regards the gear changes, they are set high on a Discovery because they used a small Torque Converter with high stall point. (2750 RPM) This was needed because the D2 is a 2.5 tonne beast and the engine needed to be in peak power points to move it forward effectively when needed. A good TD5 engine in good order, regular oil an filter changes and the correct oil will last well.... Mine is on 160k Miles already and still going strong.
  7. If the wiring is still in the loom, the cruise control should be configurable. It gets slightly more complicated if you've gone back to 1.4 transfer case ratio.... (Defender standards) If 1.4 the pulse rates will be wrong.... This can be sorted in a couple of ways... Speedohealer wired in line from the speedo to ECU to drop the speedo to ECU pulse rates, or new map with the parameters changed... (Assumes programmable ECU) Gear change points on the Land Rover units are not changeable. There are different gearbox ECU's for V8 & TD5 variants. The V8 changes down easier and revs more in line with torque & power of petrol versus Diesel. If you want total control you really need to look at Compushift and replace the Land Rover Gearbox loom / ECU.
  8. Not here to sell things are we @defendertune ?? I'm sure you read the rules when you signed up.....
  9. Sounds like the one option left then.... How about some of the windscreen type bonding stuff inside the seal as well? It holds glass onto the side of vans and windscreens onto the front of cars after all.... (Caterhams use it to hold mudguards on their cars...)
  10. Steve, I have never had a seal fall off like that... The ones I've fitted have had a metal internal structure that clamps the rubber to the aperture... Have a look and see if you can't crimp the gap in the rubber tighter to hold while the sealant / glue of choice cures.... If needed.
  11. Gazzar..... I've amended your profile so you can edit the post and upload the pictures directly to the server here etc. Hopefully the post will be good for others for many years then....
  12. @Mo Murphy Might be able to help as he went through the process of fitting one a while ago....
  13. Flushing mine didn't work... I ended up replacing it and all was well.
  14. I would investigate if the matrix is blocked. I had a similar issue with my old 110 which caused issues with temperatures spiking when warming up. The Heater matrix is used as part of the open circuit before the thermostat opens. I tried running forced water though mine which suggested there was flow... Compared to a replacement matrix, it was a very restricted flow.... Water should flow through without issue, so adding a pump may not be the answer if the matrix needs replacing.
  15. Watched this last night too.. Good viewing.....
  16. I went the Ashcroft route as well. 18 months on and it's still looking good despite quite a lot of use.....
  17. Just as a precaution, once you've change the oil, I would disengage the inertia button on the bulkhead and crank until your oil pressure light goes out. Re-connect the button to start of course. As above, after doing what you suggest, it'll probably turn and start with a new battery. If changing the fuel filter you will need to purge the fuel system a few times... (Ignition on and push the throttle pedal down fast 5 times. Engine management light should flash and you should hear a lot of gurgling.)
  18. Hi and welcome to the LR4X4... If you can post up some pictures of the engine from various angles we will be able to help you... Neil
  19. Additional Link supplied by @western Defender Water Ingress Manual
  20. I agree.. Door seal around the area where it kinks behind the door strap... I also found that water was going around the windscreen rubber... Where the rubber lays on the frame. With corrosion under the rubber it was like a capillary action sucking water up and then dripping down inside the bulkhead. Of course, it found it's way to the same point and dripped on my right foot. I applied sealant around the rubber after getting a flat wood chisel in there and removing a lot of the corrosion. Next time the screen needs to come out I'll rub down and re-spray the frame.
  21. I have a re-chargeable head torch that I use when under the truck.... I found with a hand held / floor based light source it was usually pointing in the wrong place or I was in the way.... With the light source just above my eyes it tends to be more in the right location and less of me to get in the way !
  22. @garrycol They are quite well tucked up and I've not managed to damage mine in the last 5 years.... Now I will admit I don't do rock crawling like them peeps in the good old "US of A", but do lanes and loads of unpaved tracks in the mountains of Europe.... Maybe Ralph's pic doesn't do the location justice
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