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V8 Freak

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Everything posted by V8 Freak

  1. V8 Freak

    Crank Pulley/Timing Wheel Alignment

    Hi There, Glad to hear you are moving the project forward. I think I've seen / read that the pulley wheel needs some machining to provide a flat surface for the trigger wheel to land on. Hopefully @Hybrid_From_Hell, or another knowledgeable person will be along to advise shortly.
  2. There are people out there programming like you saw on Discotd5.com and if programmed well, you can have a high power & torque engine with no smoke and in most cases no issues with MAF. I have a VGT, large PWR intercooler and 4bar MAP sensor (Standard is 2bar), but standard MAF. In theory the engine should be around 190BHP & 380Nm torque at peaks. As it's now Auto, I don't have any MAF cuts as it's rarely on high end revs.... (And as I get older I much prefer to potter the majority of the time.....) There is a member on here who had an upgraded tuning map on a standard engine from the same source and does have some MAF cut issues at high load / high RPM which we've not managed to solve, but it was 4k+ RPM under heavy acceleration. (The same engine had this before the tuning map upgrade too which we cannot understand or cure) Although genuine ones are hard come by, the same programmer will adapt the maps to use a Nissan Skyline MAF which are capable of handling a lot more air volume and eliminate any MAF cut issues.
  3. V8 Freak

    GKN Overdrive Strip Down

    The early ones did.. They added a hole in the plate that connects it to the LT230 to improve the flow out of the Overdrive... (I'm guessing it made the oil pumps' work a little easier and improved flow.)
  4. V8 Freak

    GKN Overdrive Strip Down

    I still have a Roamerdrive if you want one Rich... (And a GKN....)
  5. V8 Freak

    R380 oil

    ...
  6. V8 Freak

    GKN Overdrive Strip Down

    I think there are potentially two main reasons why a GKN drive could slip when not engaged... - The spring pressure is reduced over time through heating and cooling and therefore the "clutch" or brake mechanism doesn't clamp well and loses direct drive - The cone brake material wears so there is little or no friction. Of course there can be a combination of the two as well.... There is probably a need for the ATF to be in good order and in sufficient quality as I think it helps to condition the brake material and has some grip qualities.... (I recall reading somewhere that certain oils that are used for power steering don't have these grip characteristics... AQF versus ATF??)
  7. V8 Freak

    Landreiziger blower motor switch kit

    After seeing @Anderzander fitted one I did the same a few years back... Great to have variable speeds, but the little extension that was soldered onto the slider to accommodate the triangular knob thing came apart on mine last year. It looks in Ralph's piccies that they now have one with a longer tab.... (Wonder if I'll ever get around to sorting that out....)
  8. V8 Freak

    Clutch bled no gears

    Clutch slave bleed nipple is at the top ?
  9. V8 Freak

    Aerial

    Sounds like you need to try another head unit first to eliminate the obvious.....
  10. V8 Freak

    Replacement doors review

    Certainly let me know when you are doing front doors....
  11. V8 Freak

    TD5 Headgasket

    Great news Toby. Satidying when it’s all back together isn’t it.
  12. V8 Freak

    Odd GKN overdrive behaviour

    And now to harvest spares and repair again??
  13. V8 Freak

    Locking Wheel Nut stuck!!

    HI all, I had a classic fail yesterday when trying to do some basic work on the truck and couldn't even get the wheel off... Although not originally torqued above standard, the wheels have been on for best part of a year now without need to come off (Yes.. amazing for a Land Rover) so I'm guessing there is some corrosion between the locking nut and wheel. (The 4 standard nuts cracked loose but were tough to start) The issues in pictures.... I found a suitable sized bearing carrier, did some surgery and hammered the carrier over the locking nut key... (I may do this from new for the replacement key I've ordered....) To ensure I was applying only turning force as far as I could, I put a piece of scaffold under the socket and adjusted the truck height on the ramp to support the socket. Tried again... Thought I'd had a magic moment but.... It span.... Wheel nut still in place !! (And looking a little worse for wear.) I've got a week before the replacement key arrives and I'm able to work on the truck again... I've been adding penetrating fluid and will do so for all wheel nuts until next weekend. Are there any suggestions / tried and trusted methods anyone on here would recommend me to try next weekend?? I'm reluctant to try heat as they are alloys and although shabby, do have some paint on them in places. Thanks in advance for your guidance.
  14. V8 Freak

    Locking Wheel Nut stuck!!

    Good news. Thanks to your replies, I hammered on a snug fitting 24mm Halfords Advanced socket. All went well and with a little more penetration fluid and some pushing and pulling on the breaker bar, it came off. Wondering if I would need another socket, I forced a bolt into the nut, clamped it tight in a vice and hammered it free. Socket looks servcable! Result! Thanks for all the replies and so glad I didn’t need to get to welding near the alloy wheel. Neil
  15. V8 Freak

    Odd GKN overdrive behaviour

    It’s a nice wide flat filter so will only ever partially block if it broke loose. (Even if squished in gears etc. )
  16. V8 Freak

    Locking Wheel Nut stuck!!

    All nuts were tight while trying to remove as the truck was on the deck. I’ll root out my old imperial socket set and see if it has a suitable sacrificial socket... Just looked at my Irwin extractors. Way too small.... Any more suggestions ?
  17. V8 Freak

    Odd GKN overdrive behaviour

    I agree with you on this one Rich..... Clutch (Or more correctly... Brake) material from new is under 2mm and has no holes... I can pull the sensor out of mine tonight when home and have a look.. If your's had fallen apart, I can pop mine in the post so you stay mobile... (Or input gear and cover if that is the safer option)
  18. V8 Freak

    True or false? Defender unveiling?

    Ross is still going strong. His should be the best Land Rover ever rebuilt in about 70 years 😂
  19. V8 Freak

    True or false? Defender unveiling?

    2 minute interviews. Getting bored!
  20. V8 Freak

    True or false? Defender unveiling?

    Currently looking at diagnostics and trying to get it started. Will be manually cranking the handle sometime soon.
  21. V8 Freak

    True or false? Defender unveiling?

    Maybe they got BST confused with GMT?
  22. V8 Freak

    True or false? Defender unveiling?

    And we are still waiting? Nothing that I can see yet or am I missing something ?
  23. V8 Freak

    Help please! Defender TD5 (2003)

    Get it plugged into some diagnostics first if you can... I'll still go back to my earlier note.. Check for leaks high pressure side after the turbo then check the fuel pump properly first and then look at Fuel Pressure regulator. They generally wont start if fuel pressure too low but you might be borderline... As for getting worse as it's driven, shuddering & stalling it does sound like fuel starvation. (Especially if you've replaced the Injector loom)
  24. V8 Freak

    TD5 Headgasket

    Check the little bung in the water jacket between cylinder 3 & 4.... Mine was leaking... Easy enough to replace if it’s that. If changing the head gasket, don’t worry, the timing chain can’t disappear down the hole.. Just be methodical and follow the torque steps properly. One last point, put the timing chain tensioner in before tightening the three bolts on the cam when setting the timing. Worthwhile investing in timing pins to lock flywheel and cam..... Oh and use new injector seals if you remove the injectors......
  25. V8 Freak

    Help please! Defender TD5 (2003)

    Your mechanic won’t be able to test the injectors without specialist equipment don’t waste money there. If you have any form of plug in diagnostics, check that the throttle pedal potentiometer is working. Have you checked the boost side of the system? Are all hoses in place and not split? Has the intercooler split? Does it rev while in neutral? When was the fuel filter last changed? How was the fuel pump tested? (They can make a noise and do nothing!!) Please give a little more detail of the situation if you can....
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