Jump to content

V8 Freak

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by V8 Freak

  1. All nuts were tight while trying to remove as the truck was on the deck. I’ll root out my old imperial socket set and see if it has a suitable sacrificial socket... Just looked at my Irwin extractors. Way too small.... Any more suggestions ?
  2. HI all, I had a classic fail yesterday when trying to do some basic work on the truck and couldn't even get the wheel off... Although not originally torqued above standard, the wheels have been on for best part of a year now without need to come off (Yes.. amazing for a Land Rover) so I'm guessing there is some corrosion between the locking nut and wheel. (The 4 standard nuts cracked loose but were tough to start) The issues in pictures.... I found a suitable sized bearing carrier, did some surgery and hammered the carrier over the locking nut key... (I may do this from new for the replacement key I've ordered....) To ensure I was applying only turning force as far as I could, I put a piece of scaffold under the socket and adjusted the truck height on the ramp to support the socket. Tried again... Thought I'd had a magic moment but.... It span.... Wheel nut still in place !! (And looking a little worse for wear.) I've got a week before the replacement key arrives and I'm able to work on the truck again... I've been adding penetrating fluid and will do so for all wheel nuts until next weekend. Are there any suggestions / tried and trusted methods anyone on here would recommend me to try next weekend?? I'm reluctant to try heat as they are alloys and although shabby, do have some paint on them in places. Thanks in advance for your guidance.
  3. I agree with you on this one Rich..... Clutch (Or more correctly... Brake) material from new is under 2mm and has no holes... I can pull the sensor out of mine tonight when home and have a look.. If your's had fallen apart, I can pop mine in the post so you stay mobile... (Or input gear and cover if that is the safer option)
  4. Ross is still going strong. His should be the best Land Rover ever rebuilt in about 70 years 😂
  5. Currently looking at diagnostics and trying to get it started. Will be manually cranking the handle sometime soon.
  6. And we are still waiting? Nothing that I can see yet or am I missing something ?
  7. Get it plugged into some diagnostics first if you can... I'll still go back to my earlier note.. Check for leaks high pressure side after the turbo then check the fuel pump properly first and then look at Fuel Pressure regulator. They generally wont start if fuel pressure too low but you might be borderline... As for getting worse as it's driven, shuddering & stalling it does sound like fuel starvation. (Especially if you've replaced the Injector loom)
  8. Check the little bung in the water jacket between cylinder 3 & 4.... Mine was leaking... Easy enough to replace if it’s that. If changing the head gasket, don’t worry, the timing chain can’t disappear down the hole.. Just be methodical and follow the torque steps properly. One last point, put the timing chain tensioner in before tightening the three bolts on the cam when setting the timing. Worthwhile investing in timing pins to lock flywheel and cam..... Oh and use new injector seals if you remove the injectors......
  9. Your mechanic won’t be able to test the injectors without specialist equipment don’t waste money there. If you have any form of plug in diagnostics, check that the throttle pedal potentiometer is working. Have you checked the boost side of the system? Are all hoses in place and not split? Has the intercooler split? Does it rev while in neutral? When was the fuel filter last changed? How was the fuel pump tested? (They can make a noise and do nothing!!) Please give a little more detail of the situation if you can....
  10. Yep.... Had the same. Looked like diesel blowing back through leaking injector seal, diluting the effect of the engine oil and that follower getting hot through less lubrucation. Unfortunately it cost me a cam too!! Neil
  11. Not necessary to anneal the washer like that if new genuine parts. You must make sure the holes they are going into are spotless.. No black deposits at all as this can compromise the seal. There should be no need to plan to change regularly, but if you get poor starting, rising oil level in the engine, lumpy running, they should be early on the list of things to replace.
  12. Put the blanking plate between the exhaust manifold and cooler....
  13. Does this help?? https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/6943-300tdi-cambelt-and-kit/
  14. Use the Peterborough one too recently... As Daan, says, very helpful and quality result...
  15. FRC8744 http://lrcat.com/#32/4/45757
  16. Unfortunately, the ones on the TD5 the key can be removed when unlocked.... Hence they get lost ! (Same for the tethered one)
  17. John.... If that source is good, I'll have one too @ £1500 !!!
  18. Modelled by a grey Td5.... As an elderly uncle type person I lost the original filler cap by leaving it on the wheel carrier after getting fuel in an attended station in Italy... The normal process was broken and as I'd paid I assume the one of us had re-fitted the filler cap.... Oops... Does the job nicely...
  19. Scrape on O/S bumper.. Needs re-wrapping... Gonna cost.. LOL Errr.... Buy it !! Go on.....
  20. I put a thin bead on the rubber gasket because it’s easier to control as it’s not reaching over the back of the engine and clearly visible. It doesn’t need much and if applied sparingly it won’t spread and block the drain hole. But that is the area I was referring to in my original post. Neil
  21. I tend to put the bolts and top hats in after... Dave makes a valid point above.. These are buggers to find if dropped in the engine bay as they end up in all manner of impossible places... (Including on top of the front Diff... Ask me how I know..)
  22. It's a fairly simple operation.... Remove the acoustic cover (3 X 13 mm bolts), un-clip the breather pipe from the top and undo the 13 x 8 mm bolts.... Lift off and clean the cover and head where the seal lands really well. There us a "U" shaped section at the rear of the head... This is generally where these gaskets leak. I always add a small amount of sealant over this section to help seal here. Take care to land the whole seal in place and refit the X13 bolts etc., not excessively tight as they are quire small... Torque setting for these is very low but cannot remember it off the top of my head. Good luck.
  23. @Smego Post up some pictures..... Wheels, relationship with the outer arches (As per mine above) and show us a picture where they touch on full lock.... Mine are 255/85 BFG like Ralph's on Boost Alloys and when I added the 30mm spacers to get some turning circle back, they fouled the arches under articulation. With no spacers, they cleared the arches, but I needed to adjust the stops out to stop them rubbing the radius arms etc.
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy