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V8 Freak

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Everything posted by V8 Freak

  1. Silly question time.... @petrolhead63 but are the batteries in the keys in good order??
  2. As the whole device is reliant on the clutch material getting grip and stopping the Overdrive from slipping, using the wrong type of oil will be very detrimental to it's performance. If the hydraulics and clutch areas were separated internally then you might be able to try different oils, but to deviate totally from the specification is only going to lead to the clutch / brake slipping internally. You should only be using ATF!!!
  3. It would suggest that you need a new MAF. As it was better without, it had resorted to a set map internally (Not optimum, but representative) which was better than the one, incorrect, MAF reading it was getting. Ideally, if you can source one, get a good quality Siemens replacement.
  4. Try a run with the MAF unplugged and report back... A misfire could be oil in the injector loom but should be no different wet or dry. (Check for oil in red plug at the ECU.)
  5. HI David and welcome to the forum... It sounds like you may have a sensor not working correctly. Do you have any access to diagnostics equipment ? (Nanocom or similar?) This will help you to identify things quicker. For a start, I'd disconnect the MAF sensor and go for a drive. If it's still the same as when it was connected, it probably needs replacing. (When disconnected the engine may not rev for the first 10 - 15 seconds) The engine ECU has a lot of redundancy and will revert to standard maps if most sensors fail. It won't start or run if the crank sensor fails. When next driving it, see if it feels like a misfire or if the engine is still smooth but down on power. Very hard to diagnose these types of issue without hands on with a diagnostic device and/or a meter.
  6. It doesn't really say why Ashcroft think it's better... If it's just gear selection and not overall life and protection of the gearbox in general then I'd argue it's short term-ism. If it stated that they had reviewed the internal wear on gearboxes that had used this exclusively for 100k miles and could see a marked difference in wear I'd be inclined to go with the Ashcroft recommendation. Other than that, use what was designed to support the product and what Land Rover recommend.
  7. I believe Land Rover specified MTF94 for this gearbox. Do some research, but I used this in mine and had no gear change issues.
  8. Best statement of 63 pages... How did this ever get to 63 pages.... (Mmmm... Moderator options... Lock thread, Hide thread, Deleted thread.....!!!! ooooooo... Run away.. Don't touch the big red button..)
  9. Simply detaching wires would prove this.. It's slipping when not engaged, so not powered. If no power applied and it still slips it proves it not the wiring. The thinking of pressure building up and starting to move the cone clutch is one I considered too, hence replacing the solenoid originally. Good resources: https://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/gearbox https://www.landypedia.de/index.php/Überholung_eines_GKN_Overdrives
  10. That was a new solenoid from the OD refurb company up T'north... Such a freekin annoying OD.. Why can't it just work with all them parts new in it !
  11. It doesn't sound like you received an adjustable one... If new, you shouldn't need to play / adjust. The slack is taken up by adjusting the pressure plate that holds the ball element in place on those that can be adjusted. (See below) The slotted section should screw in and out to tighten against the joint element.
  12. @reb78 Alas, the meeting in Castle Donington looks to have been delayed.. I'll know for sure by Thursday!
  13. Shiny!!!! Slightly less shiny after some of those wonderful lanes near you 😂
  14. @reb78 Rich, You want me to try and get this before we meet up in October??
  15. Well that is good news Ralph... Well done.
  16. Mines been on for a similar time to Mo’s and no issues.
  17. Looks like all car mags / online car associated press were given the same two cars in the same location to record their launch reviews..
  18. V8 Freak

    Raise V8 CR

    Or just buy a complete Plug and Play system (Including loom) from Megasquirt V8 ..... Highly likely it can be installed in a day !!!
  19. Just a quick note to pull this to a close.... Yesterday the owner did some checks... All sensors between 998 - 1008 ohms. Spare / old hub and sensor (That had previously recorded an error in the ECU) counted at 60 teeth and sensor within specified range. Owner looked at the last hub they installed... O-ring around the top of the sensor perished.. Only 6 months old. Sensor itself corroded and evidence of water in the tube. Hub & sensor swapped out for the older spare. All was good. No more random pulling and no errors recorded in the ECU. Thanks for you help all, especially @sierrafery for pointing him in the right direction....
  20. I seem to recall that the TD5 will not rev for around 10 seconds if the MAF is disconnected. Normal service resumed once it decides there is no MAF and resorts to using a stock table from its memory. I suggest a new / known good MAF to start with and then check the wire continuity down to the plug to the ECU. Had a friend who had MAF wire broken at ecu socket. (As well as air temp sensor wire) Truck ran but because of temp sensor was under powered. The only thing that really stops them running is a lack of Crank sensor.... Other than that they a have a lot of redundancy options built in.
  21. Thanks.. I've passed this along. He thinks it was after replacing the rears the TC issue started so will start with those....
  22. Hi all, Asking on behalf of a friend that has an ongoing issue with their D2.... (Honest.. I don't own a D2... ) It's 2003 Automatic TD5. No lift, running AT's, standard sizes... The story so far... Issue: ABS light comes on Nanocom reporting ABS sensor and shuttle valve Action: Over 12 month period all hubs / ABS sensors replaced Shuttle valve replaced After this there has been no re-occurrence of the ABS light / codes so assuming ABS now functioning properly. Then.... While all of this is going on and being sorted... Issue: Vehicle randomly applying brakes (Left and right) under 30 mph Action: ABS block replaced Sub 15 kph Nanocom reporting front wheels spinning 1kph faster than rears. Everything else looks fine. No errors in Wabco ECU when read with Nanocom. Assuming that this was two issues... 1 - ABS block / shuttle valve and hubs / ABS sensors worn 2 - Traction control system applying brakes (And doing what it thinks is right as no codes recorded) - No light on Dash to suggest TC engaged The current thinking now is that ABS system is functioning normally it's highlighted the newer / second issue. Issue is now in the TC system, but don't know where / how to track this down as not reporting any error codes. Next up is trying replacement ecu (older model than current 2003 build) to see if this can eliminate ECU. If it does, will find correct SRD500070 unit from 2003/4. We may also swap the wheels front to rear to see if this changes anything... @sierrafery - When researching this I've seen you posting on quite a lot of threads relating to the Wabco ABS / TC systems and highlighting this thread to you in case you have any thoughts / recommendations. Can anyone help / suggest any further diagnostics to try and resolve this?
  23. I'm still only part way through but loving the continuity and seeing how much you actually had to do to bring this back to life.... A credit to your skills new, and old.
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