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V8 Freak

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Posts posted by V8 Freak

  1. On 8/10/2019 at 9:59 AM, GBMUD said:

    I took my Freelander2 off-road in Wales with a group of Defender drivers. 

    C'mon.... Apart from a little puncture we learned a lot that day.... Very capable beastie but not enough clearance on the angles.... I was impressed by it for the majority of the day !!!

    Is it about here I post the video of Ash wobbling his 110?? :)


  2. On 8/1/2019 at 5:37 PM, FridgeFreezer said:

    Spend £5 on a pack of temperature tell-tale stickers before going to all the trouble of an oil cooler!

    I gave Rich a few of these stickers last week so he can monitor temps in his R380..... :)


    • Like 1

  3. There are lots of conspiracy theories on this and I've seen many people talk about cheap / carp Supermarket fuels..

    All fuel in the UK needs to meet a minimum specification and the Supermarkets typically buy their fuel from the bigger refiners / brands. The only differences are likely to be any additives, which are typically cleaning agents (i.e. they do not aid combustion) so long term use of a high end brand fuel "may" result in a cleaner engine internally.


    That all said, I always use Supermarket fuel (Having bought fuel for a major supermarket in the UK in the past as one of my roles) and never had any issues.. When I use other brands while away from UK, or supermarkets I don't notice any perceptible difference in performance.

    A few years ago when I changed the head on my TD5 @150k ish miles the internals were in fine fettle, looking no worse than any other Diesels I've seen.

    I'm just wondering if your pump / setup is somehow optimised for Veg oil Rich, without you knowing how or why!! :)

  4. Hi there...

    You don't say why you want to look at this.. Do you have a specific problem or just curious?


    If you are looking to check the timing on your TD5 engine, you will need timing pins (One for the flywheel - Fitted through the bellhousing and one that is fitted once the rocker cover is removed.)

    Timing pins like these....

    Timing chains rarely wear on a TD5 as they are designed in such a way that it takes something like 26 revolutions for them to get back to their start position.

    You turn the engine and when the gap in the flywheel lines up with the hole in the bellhousing, screw in the bottom pin.


    Up top you will need to remove the acoustic cover (3 X 13 mm) and then the MAF to turbo pipework, including the pipe from the rocker cover.

    The rocker cover has 13 X 8 mm bolts.

    You will need a new rocker cover gasket ! (LVP000020)

    Once this is all off.. You will see the top of the timing chain at the front of the engine. Just behind it in the head is a little slot for the second timing pin. If it won't drop in, your timing is out.


    To adjust the timing you need to go in a little deeper.

    If you need to adjust, you need to remove the fan cover and viscous fan etc.

    You need to set the top pin first... So, remove to bottom one and turn the engine slowly unto the top pin drops in.... (if you are lucky, two bright links will be at the top of the timing chain.... Don't worry if they aren't... They may be several rotations off being at the top)

    There is a circular black plastic cover on the front of the cylinder head... Usually the cause of leaks... (Evidence below)


    When removed you may have a picture looking like this.... Top pin inserted, chain gear showing timing mark (Maybe two bright links), and the three bolts the hold the timing chain to the camshaft.


    You need to loosen these three bolts a tad.....

    Then get back under and rotate the engine the small amount needed (Hopefully small amount) to be able to screw the bottom pin in..

    With both pins now inserted the engine timing is correct. 

    Tighten one of the three bolts in the cam. Then remove the remaining two... Clean them thoroughly and apply a little loctite... Replace the two and tighten. Then remove the last one, clean and loctite etc.

    You should now be safe to remove both pins.

    Either fit a new front round black panel or clean really well and seal with good temperature tolerant sealant.

    While you are in there it's wise to replace the injector loom if it's not been done for a few years. (AMR6103) Loads of video's etc. online to help you there.... (Video that includes changing injector harness)

    Clean rocker cover and fit new gasket. It pays to add two small spots of sealant at the back where the semi-circular part lands on the head as those little corner sections that cup around the cam tend to leak.

    Tighten down all 13 bolts.

    Refit fan, fan cover, breather tube to top of engine and all the pipework you removed.... From airbox to turbo. Refit the acoustic cover.

    Fingers crossed, it will start..... (Just make sure you've removed the bottom pin !!)

    • Like 1

  5. Just now, Red90 said:

    Great numbers to who?  I'm sure they will claw back some of the lost market and lost sales they have seen in the last couple of years, but I can't see it doing any more for than than that.

    They had the opportunity to dig into completely untouched markets that would have made a huge impact on the brand sales, but they are missing out on that.

    You may be right, but they may just be looking to cream off the top of the SUV market for great tarmac vehicles... Look how long the waiting list got got the Evoke... Over 6 months at some points...

    Something capable off-road in farmer spec isn't going to make them money.... They all run around on quads or in buggies these days...

    • Like 1
    • Sad 1

  6. 1 hour ago, Red90 said:

    People do want it to be a proper 4x4.  But that is clearly not what they are building and because of that they are not going to win away any sales from the Land cruiser, Patrol and Wrangler buyers.  They clearly have no concept of what the buyers in that marketplace want in a vehicle.

    And it will sell in great numbers regardless of not meeting the buyers in whatever marketplace....

    • Like 2

  7. I read somewhere that these aren't made new any longer !

    When Mo needed one a while back he was told Britpart was the only official source as Adwest weren't selling to anyone else at the time...

    If you can get one, it may be Britpart, with Adwest on the stamp, but no telling what the final quality may be.... 


    Paddocks are advertising new....


  8. James,

    I have a system from Griffin... (http://www.griffinperformance.co.uk/index.htm)

    Stainless with a custom exit from the rear box modelled on SteveG's old 90...  Great fit and still looks great under the truck... 

    James is a really nice guy and I felt happy to buy from his as he knew Rupert (Our resident mad farmer)...

    The site only mentions a 300 but I'm sure 200 is something that he will have a pattern for too...

    Mine was around £500 with straight through centre section in 2014.... I've since added another centre box from James as it droned on a bit once I went to auto.. (Sign of me getting old?)

    Pics when installed....





    Taken last weekend....


  9. I know the ride wasn't that comfortable and articulation was poor, but the Flintstones vehicles are back to basics..... Not them fancy leaf springs.... Pah.. Way too modern.... And Gears !!!!! Gears..... Just pedal faster with the feet.....


    Many of the "Longbeards" types on here are still upset the 200tdi was replaced.... Shame on Land Rover for upsetting them....

  10. My assumptions were basic Rich....

    If there is no hydraulic pressure, the OD won't engage.

    Therefore the normal / default drive mode must be reliant on the springs holding the brake/clutch cone firmly in one position (locking the sun gear and annulus) and that state being changed when the hydraulic pressure forces the brake/clutch cone into position on the opposite surface (Sun gear locked stationary - forcing drive through the planetary gears / changed gearing)

    The hydraulic pressure is quoted to be over 400 psi, so should overcome the springs quite easily, even if the spring rate is increased.....

  11. The fact it slipped at the first move of the day would suggest it's not hydraulic.... Sometimes just dipping the clutch and going again solved it for days. Hence focus on the springs eventually... (As well as the extensive overhaul...)

    I was wondering if there was a way to pack the springs and add a little extra force to them for testing? 

  12. Back in 2011 / 2012 ish, I read bout the TK102 that Si Rafferty had hidden in his truck.

    I bought one and installed it, and although now in a different truck, it's still going strong.

    It might be limited by the GSM network but costs me something like £10 per month for the text only SIM to have a little piece of mind.

    There is a small App written by a member on here (Called TKController) that can be used to control the commands easily. So when parked up at home, or anywhere new overnight,  I set a virtual fence and if broken the unit sends me texts with locations every 30 seconds and calls me to alert me to the fact it's passed through the fence.... 

    You can wire in an immobiliser if you wish and I believe even a panic style button to send messages to numbers in it's list.

    When my battery ran low  while back it even started to text me to warn me it's battery was low....

    If it were stolen, I can give the number to the police and they can get regular location texts just by sending a basic command... So they "could" track the vehicle.

    I'd guess that Skytag and the likes have software that plots these types of  messages and produces the breadcrumb trail and do the legwork in liaison with the police.


    For a cheap option, I'd happily recommend a TK unit of some sort.

  13. Although already under pressure when fitting the nuts to the spring retainers, it may be worth trying spacers / washers under the nuts to add a little more spring pressure and see if it make the difference you are looking for?

  14. I've pretty much replaced all but the case itself at one point...

    Rich is right, the oil pressure isn't used when not in Overdrive mode as far as I can work out...

    Therefore, the springs are important to keep the pressure on the brake cone and give you normal drive.

    When the solenoid is activated, it pumps oil to move the brake cone to lock the internals and force the drive through the three planetary gears.

    It should just be clamping pressure from the springs needed for normal drive. So unless oil pressure is getting by the solenoid and acting against the spring pressure, it "should work".

  15. I was only thinking out loud while typing Ralph....

    Filters, springs, brake media, spragg clutch "should" all be ok.. So the only thing that came to mind was suitable fluid pressure to force the cone to act as a brake and route the drive torque through the planetary gears.... (If my recollection is right, spragg is only really a reverse safeguard!)

    Therefore if filters are clear it could point to potential wear in the pump mechanism?

  16. If you're going onside, here's a pic of the brake / clutch material for comparison to new...1816647175_2016-07-0616_21_52.thumb.jpg.08cf52faa3096339e881a53e9de6e7f3.jpg


    And the obligatory pic of the new spragg clutch.. :)


    And springs...


    Might be worth checking the piston that generates the oil pressure? I'm assuming it needs oil pressure to hold the brake / clutch material into the Overdrive position to make drive go through the planetary gears? (Effectively the cone is a brake not a clutch)

    Or do as Rich suggests and build one from the best parts of both?

  17. Sorry to see this Ralph....

    After new clutch / brake material, springs, filter and spragg clutch it was behaving itself until it ran low on oil. 

    As I explained before, we only discovered the oil leak once we made camp that night and it was taken out that evening. It wasn't slipping all the time.. Only on a few occasions but once we discovered the leak it was safest to remove it.... It sat un-touched in the box as you got it for two years....

    I believed it to be in good order but didn't have any vehicle to fit it to...

    • Like 1
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