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V8 Freak

Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
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Everything posted by V8 Freak

  1. Ralph, I watched a little video about the Universe last night and realised that you could have driven to the moon in your truck with all them miles.... Obviously you would need the infrastructure put in place to do it for real.... No attempts beforehand please....
  2. If the wheels are able to cope with the weight.... You will need to either align the bolt heads so they don't catch on the wheel, as others have said, or get some alternative bolts of a suitable strength... The picture of the inside of the alloy posted above does show a max weight.. 650 or 850 kg??
  3. Andrew, While it's out why not treat the truck to an early Christmas present and get a decent release bearing form Nige.... Xcess4x4.... (But he may have shut up shop for Christmas.....)
  4. Hi Cat.... The post right before yours at the end of the thread does suggest its the fuel pump.....
  5. I took a tip from Les Henson.... Long M10 bolts (I think M10 anyways..Please check!) with the heads cut off, smoothed and grooved... Ideal as guides for removal and fitting of transfer boxes (And R380 gearbox in this instance) In place for removal.... And ready for the fitting of the new Auto gearbox.... When used in a similar fashion for the LT230, if helps to prevent damage to the input seal while installing.
  6. It sounds like one of a few things that could be happening... 1) Slave or master cylinder worn - Clutch would feel pretty similar but not enough pressure getting translated to the release bearing meaning clutch still spinning the gearbox and hard to engage gears. 2) Pressure plate fingers collapsing / some broken - A friend experienced this last year. the pressure system was working fine but the fingers on the pressure plate had effectively "sagged" and therefore the clutch release bearing moved up and settled in the new position, but as the fingers were now somewhat deformed the re
  7. I don’t think it’s just age.. It’s been battered at the front for around 50k miles too.... Good ole English salt in the winter as well as all the other stuff from our roads getting thrown at it.... The next 4 years will see it look a lot better with. Proper paint job and a lot less miles on British roads. Didn’t get it apart this weekend and the next few are already fully committed.
  8. I would suggest trying to leave the TC attached in the gearbox regardless. Less chance of damaging the seal and torque converter... Alignment of the two sets of splines is hard enough with the gearbox standing vertical, so getting the angles lines up and both drive and oil pump splines with the engine dangling and swinging around should be avoided. Neil
  9. Chiko, Are you looking to have wing mirrors that retract electronically or that are heated?
  10. Steve, I've not got the Tiger Shark, but did go for a Talon 12.5iSR back in 2013 (Link for reference http://www.electricwinchshop.co.uk/superwinchtalon12-5isr12v.html) It's not used in anger regularly but on the handful of times I've needed it, it's been up to the job. Earlier this year it pulled me up a slope when I was dug into sand and didn't complain. I took the gubbins off the top and installed my own wiring using an Albright relay though.... Over the years the UK weather has taken it's toll on the appearance, so it's off at the moment for a refresh.
  11. Although the Overdrive is gone, the Transfer box is now 1.2 Ratio so similar final drive... The Speedohealer is still there doing it's job. Never had an issue with it. Seems worth the money.
  12. Not only a different TC with different bolt patterns, but different flywheel and space between flywheel and flex plate. I'd also check, but I think the old Disco 1 V8's were hydraulic control where Td5 are electronically controlled gearboxes.... So Td5 has no kick-down cable etc. which probably exists on the D1 V8.... I think it's a veritable minefield....
  13. Well done Ralph.... Good to hear it running again.... Treat her gentle now and you should be good for another 25 years.....
  14. Some pictures on one of the pages in here.... Google is your friend.....
  15. I agree the MAF could be shot, but it won't explain being unable to move a car off a drive in the morning....
  16. Ok... Lets try and keep focus on the cold engine low power thing.... First.... Can you get into another TD5 and compare warm performance? Will you be able to buy / make a blanking plate to eliminate the EGR? (Also helps diagnose the MAF potentially) If you eliminate the EGR and cold power is still an issue, I would then be checking the injector settings. Will the garage share the actual compression readings... Ideal 450 psi, 280 will still run the vehicle, but performance will suffer.... When does your Nanocom arrive as it will be the simplest way to check the throttle
  17. That's looking good Ralph.... Should purr again (If 200 tdi's can be ever be described as purring) once that's back together....
  18. EGR stuck open would reduce the exhaust gasses going through the turbo I guess.... Pretty simple to eliminate the EGR to test the theory. Something like this... https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/EGR-Blanking-plate-Landrover-Discovery-2-defender-Td5-Stainless-Steel/121251487204?_mwBanner=1&epid=704701837 Inserted between the exhaust manifold and EGR cooler or flexible pipe and EGR cooler... Insert on one end of the brass looking pipe in the middle left of the picture. Easy to get to with 4 screws on the fan cover and 3 X 13mm on the acoustic cover... That wou
  19. Is your EGR removed / blanked? If not, then the MAF is quite important as it effectively controls the EGR valve (Via the ECU) If it's removed or blanked then unplugging the MAF won't make a whole lot of difference. The ECU will use a default fueling map and probably just over fuel a little. Do a little googling to find out more... Posts like this help to explain. http://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/showthread.php/76951-TD5-Air-flow-sensor
  20. In my head, the fact it starts first crank says fuel pressure is probably ok, crank sensor is working..... (Although it may be worth getting a new genuine spare and swapping them over - If it fails you're not going anywhere....) What is not clear is how different it is now compared to before all the work took place... You say it lacks low end torque "in your opinion" but what are you comparing to? The cold start and total lack of power when cold does suggest not enough fuel. (Not sure poor timing would account for such poor performance) For the sake of 30 minutes and
  21. Hi and welcome to the forum... Has it been this way since the head was replaced or gradually worsened?? Does the engine smoke under acceleration? One stab at this as I've not experienced this would be that the garage may not have set the injectors up correctly and you are not getting enough fuel injected... I'm making a basic assumption that fuel pressure is good as it starts and does run, but I wouldn't eliminate the fuel pump just yet. MAF really shouldn't make a terrible difference as a lot of truck run with these broken or disconnected. Injectors
  22. Well that is good news. I will pass along the feedback to Simon as he provided the map. Good to know it’s alive.
  23. Have you disturbed the system recently? I capped off the old EGR coolant pipes recently and let some coolant water escape in the process. I still get a whiff of coolant occasionally after 3000 miles but the header tank level hasn’t moved. I can only assume the remnants of the anti-freeze somewhere on the block is causing the smell somehow. It is gradually reducing !
  24. I'll thank my lucky things then that all 4 went back together without issue!!
  25. Mmmm.... No spacers in mine apart from the one that fits between the inner and outer bearings that effectively sets the distance between them... I simply pushed the old races out, cleaned it all up, fitted the new (And new disks at the time) and fitted it all back together. New bearings were Timken and once the 52mm nut was tightened to effin tight as prescribed, all was well. No dial gauge, or additional spacers....
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