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V8 Freak

Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
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Everything posted by V8 Freak

  1. He says brake cleaner... Not likely to affect the sensors !
  2. Received this from Simon... “OK here we go.. She's been run dry, injectors out and been stood. Confirm the fuel pressure at the FPR where the temperature sensor sits. This is ideally 4 bar but 3.8 bar is adequate and make sure she holds that steady. I appreciate after faffing about it was holding at 1.5 bar however this could be for various reasons. If this is all good: Bleed her up using the bleed sequence (5 times on the pedal - which works for bot MSB and NNN by the way). Do this 3 - 4 times. Then... 2 man job. Give it a good snort of brake cleaner up the MAF whilst crankin
  3. Did you set the injectors with them on the cam (ie fully depressed injector side, rocker fully raised on the cam) When fully depressed by the cam, loosen the lock nut, screw the adjuster down until it bottoms out and then screw back out one full turn. Tighten the lock nut. Do the same for all 5....
  4. Most suggestions are that the sensor is being affected by the prolonged use of the starter motor. “the starter's electromagnetic field might affect the crank sensor sometimes...in this case you'll have a "noisy crank signal" fault code logged”
  5. The Nanocom fault sounds like a potential issue with the crank sensor? its quite critical as the engine won’t start without it. I’m going to do a bit of reading and will be back. Catch up I’m PM to arrange to get the Defender map to you. Neil
  6. Suggestion is that if EU3 you will have a fuel rail running externally on the engine along the inlet manifold. (Like the one below inside the dipstick)
  7. Just spotted you can't hear the furl pump any longer.... Check the inertia switch on the bulkhead inside the engine bay hasn't tripped. You should hear the fuel pump every time the ignition is turned on. (Even if it's not gurgling..)
  8. Have an answer back. He says Disco NNN0000120 with Defender map should be fine. Wise to re-map it first as gauges will read wrong etc. but should start. "Should" Edit: He's just texted back and happy to send a stock Defender map for you to upload with Nanocom if you wish. He needs to know if EU2 or EU3 engine. Is it 10p or 15p engine / 2 or 3 way accelerator pedal etc. As it's 1998 I'd assume 10p / EU2 but please confirm.
  9. It's his birthday so will have to wait until tomorrow. I'm sure he said something like it will start and tickover but fuel / temp readings will be wrong etc. I don't know if programming a Defender map in changes this... Tomorrow should get us some good advice. To get the ECU and 10AS to talk, ignition on, Nanocom on, Defender/TD5/TD5 Engine/Utility and choose "Learn Security Code" Hopefully it will show as successful.
  10. I may be wrong but I don’t think ECU’s are swappable between Disco and Defender. If it is going to work, you will need to use Nanocom to learn the 10AS code as a minimum. So it could start ! I’ll ask a friend about the ECU types and come back to you...
  11. You'll be able to call that properly "run in" in about 100k Ralph !!!
  12. I prefer the td5 version. My view is that if the bearing shows play it’s worn... I swapped out what I believe to be the originals at 95k miles because I changed the disks etc. 150 k mikes now and all going strong. You may be able to adjust the old setup but you are essentially running on worn bearings. Treat them well, keep them clean and well greased and they last....
  13. Steve, Sir Les showed be a trick on my 110.. We drilled the rivets out and bent the top up to get the matrix out... Snug but saved taking anything off the truck. Packed the new matrix in well and then bent the top down again and held it all down while we added the rivets back in. It worked a charm.
  14. I quite like that!! Slightly longer than I'd desire but I'm sure with a few adjustments the break over could be improved....
  15. I watched the professional change mine just over a year ago.. He failed to get the old screen out without damage, although he could have cut the old surround if he had been worried about preserving the glass. Putting the new screen in, with new rubber he said the secret was to not rush, not force it and take all the time you need... He gently slapped the screen with his open palm when it wasn't dropping in fully... If dropping a new screen in, my advice would be to refresh the paint on the screen surround. Mine started started leaking a while after the installation and it was t
  16. I wonder if there is enough information in the thread for David Ashcroft to be able to advise if its a problem with the gearbox internals.. @ashtrans - David.. Does this sound like a gearbox or torque converter failure based on the information above or can you advise of an additional test the OP can do to check before considering removal and replacement? Thanks in advance....
  17. Ah.... Yes.. That's probably not an option... James is a good person so I'd hope he will be able to make suggestions once he's seen pictures.
  18. I spoke to Griffin when I fitted a system to my 90 as the arch over the rear axle was too tall and would touch / vibrate against the floor. I met at a facility half way between their site and my house and they removed the exhaust, made amends and kept going at it until I was happy. The guys at the facility he used worked on it for nearly an hour in the end... Moved mounts, shortened tubes, added in another joint for ease of positioning in the future if needed. No charge to me. I've since gone auto and because it's so well made I was able to delete the mount near the front cross
  19. Where are you based?? The loud pump when initially turned on probably suggests either an air leak or fuel bleeding back out of the system somehow and needing to be pushed back up to pressure. Can you clarify when it last ran and if it’s run at all since changing the injector seals etc.? It really sounds like it needs bleeding through and it should run. Mines a later td5 with the purge facility, but occasionally when I’ve released the fuel from the system even after a few purges it needs some cranking with the throttle pedal held down until it catches and then usually sorts
  20. It may be similar to a problem I had a few years back.. Full tank of diesel and all worked fine, down under half - quarter and it stopped running and gave the impression of being out of fuel. I took the fuel line off the filter and pumped into external cans for storage and the pressure the pump could deliver at different tank fills was amazing. Changed the fuel pump and all was well....
  21. Definitely change the injector loom while the top is off. Get Genuine Land Rover injector seals and O-rings if you can...
  22. Don't attempt to disassemble the actual injectors. very specialist work... If you are referring to getting them out of the head, I use a long 5mm Allen key. In just the right place you can lever them out. Slide hammer is the Land Rover way but I've read of this damaging injectors too...
  23. Now that depends if the ones you have work.. My vehicle at 148k miles and still working.
  24. Once it's all back together rotating by hand is good to make sure, but one or two should suffice. Wise to disconnect the impact sensor on the bulkhead and crank on the battery to build oil pressure before starting. Crank until oil light goes out. Then reconnect. Also make sure battery if fully charged as you will need to run the purge cycle at least 6 times to push diesel into the head. Since the injectors likely to be empty too, you are likely to need to crank with throttle open too when you want to start to help get fuel into injectors and get it fired up. Use ne
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