V8 Freak

Ok... Lets try and keep focus on the cold engine low power thing.... First.... Can you get into another TD5 and compare warm performance? Will you be able to buy / make a blanking plate to eliminate the EGR? (Also helps diagnose the MAF potentially) If you eliminate the EGR and cold power is still an issue, I would then be checking the injector settings. Will the garage share the actual compression readings... Ideal 450 psi, 280 will still run the vehicle, but performance will suffer.... When does your Nanocom arrive as it will be the simplest way to check the throttle pedal. MAF performance etc. Wiring loom issues not likely to just be there when cold.... So for now, until you have Nanocom and can keep a check on faults lets assume the loom is ok. Check intercooler and pipes for leaks, but that should be a constant and leak cold or hot.... Clutch will not change cold engine performance. I'm assuming clutch is not slipping when cold and engine revving.. It's definitely engine cannot pull the car forward until warm and not clutch slipping and engine revving? Screech could well be pinion bearing.. Known for TD5 to rub on these and get noisy. TC is only linked to wheel sensors to my knowledge. It compares the speed of each and if one is slower or faster it flashes and gets to work reducing the power. The TC is looking for wheel spinning.... You will feel it engage through the brake pedal and the light will flash when it's engaged. It's unlikely to flash when pulling away slowly unless there is ice under the wheels. Simple thing to check is that all 4 sensor are down to a similar level in the hubs. Front easier to see than back. If one is high it could throw out an error now and then if marginal. The vibration you are feeling might be the Dual Mass Flywheel rattling if its very worn. Hard to say from a description. Diff could be another reason if damaged internally.... Diff & Drive flanges not connected to the ECU. Noises from Transfer case could be not fully disengaged from locked diff... Maybe wise to move into and out of difflock a few times and shift high to low etc a few times and see if it goes away. Nanocom will help with diagnosis of the electrics. Focus on the engine first. If the diff is broken it will fail and give you a bigger bill but you will know when it's dead. If you are reliant on a garage to do all the work and try to sort the issues you are describing, make sure they know Land Rovers or you could be in for a big labour bill without solving the issues. What country are you in?

That's looking good Ralph.... Should purr again (If 200 tdi's can be ever be described as purring) once that's back together....

EGR stuck open would reduce the exhaust gasses going through the turbo I guess.... Pretty simple to eliminate the EGR to test the theory. Something like this... https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/EGR-Blanking-plate-Landrover-Discovery-2-defender-Td5-Stainless-Steel/121251487204?_mwBanner=1&epid=704701837 Inserted between the exhaust manifold and EGR cooler or flexible pipe and EGR cooler... Insert on one end of the brass looking pipe in the middle left of the picture. Easy to get to with 4 screws on the fan cover and 3 X 13mm on the acoustic cover... That would stop the gases flowing around the EGR part totally and eliminate it as part of the problem.

Is your EGR removed / blanked? If not, then the MAF is quite important as it effectively controls the EGR valve (Via the ECU) If it's removed or blanked then unplugging the MAF won't make a whole lot of difference. The ECU will use a default fueling map and probably just over fuel a little. Do a little googling to find out more... Posts like this help to explain. http://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/showthread.php/76951-TD5-Air-flow-sensor

In my head, the fact it starts first crank says fuel pressure is probably ok, crank sensor is working..... (Although it may be worth getting a new genuine spare and swapping them over - If it fails you're not going anywhere....) What is not clear is how different it is now compared to before all the work took place... You say it lacks low end torque "in your opinion" but what are you comparing to? The cold start and total lack of power when cold does suggest not enough fuel. (Not sure poor timing would account for such poor performance) For the sake of 30 minutes and a rocker cover gasket I'd be checking the injectors. My Td5 is pretty much the same cold and warm... (Although we don't see much below Zero here.....)

Hi and welcome to the forum... Has it been this way since the head was replaced or gradually worsened?? Does the engine smoke under acceleration? One stab at this as I've not experienced this would be that the garage may not have set the injectors up correctly and you are not getting enough fuel injected... I'm making a basic assumption that fuel pressure is good as it starts and does run, but I wouldn't eliminate the fuel pump just yet. MAF really shouldn't make a terrible difference as a lot of truck run with these broken or disconnected. Injectors: You need to set the injectors with them on the cam (ie fully depressed injector side, rocker fully raised on the cam) When fully depressed by the cam, loosen the lock nut, screw the adjuster down until it bottoms out and then screw back out one full turn. Tighten the lock nut. If the garage has set them like "normal" rockers and loosened them off at the top of the cam and set them with a gap then they will not be depressing the plungers enough to raise the required fuel pressure.

Well that is good news. I will pass along the feedback to Simon as he provided the map. Good to know it’s alive.

Have you disturbed the system recently? I capped off the old EGR coolant pipes recently and let some coolant water escape in the process. I still get a whiff of coolant occasionally after 3000 miles but the header tank level hasn’t moved. I can only assume the remnants of the anti-freeze somewhere on the block is causing the smell somehow. It is gradually reducing !

I'll thank my lucky things then that all 4 went back together without issue!!

Mmmm.... No spacers in mine apart from the one that fits between the inner and outer bearings that effectively sets the distance between them... I simply pushed the old races out, cleaned it all up, fitted the new (And new disks at the time) and fitted it all back together. New bearings were Timken and once the 52mm nut was tightened to effin tight as prescribed, all was well. No dial gauge, or additional spacers....

He says brake cleaner... Not likely to affect the sensors !

Received this from Simon... “OK here we go.. She's been run dry, injectors out and been stood. Confirm the fuel pressure at the FPR where the temperature sensor sits. This is ideally 4 bar but 3.8 bar is adequate and make sure she holds that steady. I appreciate after faffing about it was holding at 1.5 bar however this could be for various reasons. If this is all good: Bleed her up using the bleed sequence (5 times on the pedal - which works for bot MSB and NNN by the way). Do this 3 - 4 times. Then... 2 man job. Give it a good snort of brake cleaner up the MAF whilst cranking her over. Start cranking first then start spraying up the MAF. May take a few seconds to start spluttering into life, then she should go. 10p engines are notorious to bleed up after running out of fuel. I also notice that the Crank sensor has been changed. If it starts throwing up errors it may need a shim under it. They are available form LR for less than £5. Even so it should still run. The injector peak charge short may well be down to trying to start with a low voltage battery as the 85v switch mode PSU in the ECU does drop quite quickly when battery voltage is low, so am not too worried about that at the moment.”

Did you set the injectors with them on the cam (ie fully depressed injector side, rocker fully raised on the cam) When fully depressed by the cam, loosen the lock nut, screw the adjuster down until it bottoms out and then screw back out one full turn. Tighten the lock nut. Do the same for all 5....

Most suggestions are that the sensor is being affected by the prolonged use of the starter motor. “the starter's electromagnetic field might affect the crank sensor sometimes...in this case you'll have a "noisy crank signal" fault code logged”

The Nanocom fault sounds like a potential issue with the crank sensor? its quite critical as the engine won’t start without it. I’m going to do a bit of reading and will be back. Catch up I’m PM to arrange to get the Defender map to you. Neil

Suggestion is that if EU3 you will have a fuel rail running externally on the engine along the inlet manifold. (Like the one below inside the dipstick)

Just spotted you can't hear the furl pump any longer.... Check the inertia switch on the bulkhead inside the engine bay hasn't tripped. You should hear the fuel pump every time the ignition is turned on. (Even if it's not gurgling..)

Have an answer back. He says Disco NNN0000120 with Defender map should be fine. Wise to re-map it first as gauges will read wrong etc. but should start. "Should" Edit: He's just texted back and happy to send a stock Defender map for you to upload with Nanocom if you wish. He needs to know if EU2 or EU3 engine. Is it 10p or 15p engine / 2 or 3 way accelerator pedal etc. As it's 1998 I'd assume 10p / EU2 but please confirm.

It's his birthday so will have to wait until tomorrow. I'm sure he said something like it will start and tickover but fuel / temp readings will be wrong etc. I don't know if programming a Defender map in changes this... Tomorrow should get us some good advice. To get the ECU and 10AS to talk, ignition on, Nanocom on, Defender/TD5/TD5 Engine/Utility and choose "Learn Security Code" Hopefully it will show as successful.

I may be wrong but I don’t think ECU’s are swappable between Disco and Defender. If it is going to work, you will need to use Nanocom to learn the 10AS code as a minimum. So it could start ! I’ll ask a friend about the ECU types and come back to you...

You'll be able to call that properly "run in" in about 100k Ralph !!!

I prefer the td5 version. My view is that if the bearing shows play it’s worn... I swapped out what I believe to be the originals at 95k miles because I changed the disks etc. 150 k mikes now and all going strong. You may be able to adjust the old setup but you are essentially running on worn bearings. Treat them well, keep them clean and well greased and they last....

Xcess Locker Lockers

Steve, Sir Les showed be a trick on my 110.. We drilled the rivets out and bent the top up to get the matrix out... Snug but saved taking anything off the truck. Packed the new matrix in well and then bent the top down again and held it all down while we added the rivets back in. It worked a charm.

I quite like that!! Slightly longer than I'd desire but I'm sure with a few adjustments the break over could be improved....