V8 Freak

Hi and welcome to LR4X4.... It will help if you can post up what sort of trailer, an idea of what you think needs attention and potentially some pictures so others can offer advice. Neil

That kit is good although mine was a touch tight across the front of the truck and the N/S headlight cable is short as a result... (All very useable though) I've got Osram Nightbreakers but blew two X 10amp fuses soon after it was all commissioned.... Wiring all checked out so I put a 15 amp fuse in and it's been working fine for approx. a year now.... Neil

Happy New Year

I'll see if I can find some time with the truck and Nanocom to find that option....

Amazingly... I got the Ben Fogle book too.....

Wondering if the knowledge of those on here might help me.... I was doing some work on the truck today and read the faults on my ECU. Got this one... 8-1 air conditioning fan drive over temperature (logged) I cleared the code and it registered again when I ran the engine. I've not had time for further investigation and intend checking the condenser fan itself... Any other suggestions of things I should consider? Anyone had this code themselves? Thanks in advance Neil

To add some feedback from a users perspective.... Centre ATB in LT230 for some time now and really wouldn't know it's there.... I also have an Ashcroft ATB in the rear diff. While touring in the Pyrenees earlier this year I got to a bit of an axle twister on a slow long climb and left the centre diff unlocked, where I thought I might need it locked... No real momentum... Just a bit of a test.... When the left front lost traction the truck stopped.... The two ATB's weren't enough to keep it moving.... Rolled back a few feet, locked the centre diff and on she went without issues. On the road the vehicle shows no signs of the ATB's being there under normal conditions. I've pushed it around in the wet and dry conditions and the truck behaves itself. They are doing their work as I should be slipping around a lot more in some of these situations, but so far I'm happy that I can push the loud pedal when needed and all seems in control. (Td5 is "tuned" with bigger intercooler, VGT and IRB mapping) When I'm off-road it's normally lanes and at a fairly sedate pace, so I doubt they get a work out at all on those occasions. Since they've been installed I've not really been in many wet, muddy scenarios apart from a few lanes in Thetford and I've only locked the centre diff on one occasion "just in case" and even then I doubt it was needed. For me, just having good road manners in less than ideal conditions on KM2's they are proving worth it...

Ralph, I may be missing something but both of those links say Non-ABS when you click through...

I think it's been mentioned elsewhere.... Try releasing the fuel filler cap. I was helping Mo with a similar challenge a while back ad the tank was under a vacuum.. Truck would tick over but not rev. Run with cap off or lose and see if the problem goes away.

I think most are thinking back to a certain notorious supplier of old who produced everything in Orange and called it "Extreme" as their key marketing ploy....

This sounds like the switch on the steering column has melted under the load and now not making contact with the dipped beam contacts. The load heats the switch and they generally get so warm over time that the switch poles melt the insulation and move... Remove the steering cowl and light switch and have a look at the switch. It's fairly obvious when you see it...

I use the top one as well so if you are coming to use my air Rich, you are already setup (Well half of your stuff is..)

Mmmmm..... Maybe a re-think then...

On my 3rd set of KM2's and just love them. Very little road noise, good manners on and off road, seem to last forever and the size you quote above (Same as mine) gives good clearance under the diff.... Current set on 50k miles and still over 6mm tread ! Neil

I intend using a small receiver tank and it's only going to be for top ups and emergencies..... In the old 110 I had a system I bought from SteveG with single cylinder T-max type compressor, small ish tank under the vehicle and pressure switch etc. It worked fine and was simple. Thinking of similar with small tank in rear wheel arch and EAS compressor & pressure switch in front wing.... I think I'll note the "improvement" in the wiring and not worry about thermal cutout as I don't ever expect the compressor to be running for that long. Thanks for the great feedback as ever, very speedy... Neil

Hi, Wondering if someone can confirm the wiring on an EAS compressor... I'm planning to sort some on-board air and have had an EAS compressor fall into my lap.... It's got two thick wires and one thinner wire. (Not with me at present so cannot confirm the colours...) I've assumed one will be earth, one power live and the other a trigger / switch for an internal relay? If anyone can confirm or advise otherwise before I go anywhere near to connecting it up it would be great. Thanks in advance. Neil

I've never had this myself thankfully.... I would firstly check your oil level and see if you are losing oil. If no apparent oil loss I wold suspect that there is residual oil in your water system that is getting washed around when the system is hot. I'm hoping others will pipe in with suggestions of how to flush your system safely and remove the oil that way. I'm sure I read of someone else with similar issues recently but can't recall the thread right now.. Searching may yield some results. Neil

I use this with a light bead on diffs can not had a leak yet.. http://www.loctite.co.uk/loctite-4087.htm?nodeid=8802653274113 Available in Halfords etc.

I'll drop you a PM to arrange.

I have some things I need to get to Nige and happy to add another thing if it helps.. I'm only over in Royston area so if you can get the diff to Bedfordshire area I'm happy to meet, store and transport in the near future when I pop to se him. Regards Neil

When purging the first few times, did you get a lot of gurgling and fluid being moved sounds? (If not I'd suspect the pump even if it not making a noise) If left, does the pump switch off after 30 secs - 1 min? Also, check to see you haven't banged or dislodged the connection on the Inertia switch on the bulkhead just behind the engine. Push the button on the top and try again. Neil

Just a silly suggestion, but might be wise to check the filler cap for the tank is breathing. Helped with an incident a while back where pump wouldn't prime etc., and it turned out that all pipes and pump were good, but tank was being drawn into a vacuum state and stopping fuel flow. Filler cap removed, all worked normally....

Wendy!!!!!!!

http://users.erols.com/srweiss/tableifc.htm A helpful list of fuel injector part numbers, operating pressures, flow rates etc.

TD5's usually start on the button regardless of MAF. I have a friend who didn't know he had two wires pulled out of his ECU and had neither MAF or Air temp input but used the car every day for 5 years and thought that was all TD5's could do until I took him out in mine. Blanking and removing EGR won't put up any dash warning lights. I would look at other things if its cranking but not firing.... If you can, get some sort of diagnostics plugged in... Sharing your location may help as someone near you may have something like nanocom or Faultmate... Starter battery... Is it holding charge and over 12 volts? New battery in Key Fob? Replace crank sensor? Neil