V8 Freak

Hi and welcome to the forum.... For a Rover V8 I would suggest 20w-50 engine oil. Transfer box and axles - EP90 Manual Gearbox - MTF94 Auto - ATF Have a look through our tech archive.. It's all there for you...

Powered Sub-woofer mounted to the floor and replace and raise rear speakers with decent units..... Can make the truck shake as required and deffo hear the music while cruizin at 70 ish..... Neil

I think Rich has taken too long making decisions and playing around with fridges to do the important stuff like adding "Shinys" to his truck

He doesn't have time Mo. Leaving today....

Believe me I've driven with and without Ross and no difference. Point to note is I don't have a snorkel / raised air intake, merely using the Land Rover side vent....

I currently have my TD5 using the standard side wing port. The Land Rover pipe is 2.5 inches diameter or less from memory and it's not strangling my engine. IRB fitted intercooler, VNT, map and boost box. It's going very well still after over 30k in this configuration, so much that I feel I need another gear and the T/box is already 1.2 ratio. Have you checked all the obvious first and plugged in some diagnostics? Air filter, Fuel Filter, hoses, intercooler, (Leaks) waste gate moving freely, MAF & MAP functioning etc. Have a friend who was complaining about his TD5 performance.. He drove mine and couldn't believe what they can do. He had the ECU wires for MAF & air temp pulled out of the ECU plug without knowing so even though he change MAF he drove it for 5 years thinking this was all it could do..... Now it's normal Neil

Not wishing to hi-jack but..... It's a mirror thread.... Does anyone have spare caps that fit on the bottom of the arm mounts?? I lost mine on some tracks full of gorse last year in Portugal and should probably replace them.... Hopeful......

I took mine off and stood them in the bench but they will fill with oil quick enough

Seems strange they talk about it being 195 BHP and yet stats at the bottom of the section were considerably less... I rather ignored too much detail and scanned down..... I'm sure many on here could add a lot of cons to most engines.. No mention of the early TD5 plastic dowels, oil pump bolts coming loose, exhaust manifolds warping etc...

Have to agree with the final verdict.. Although I loved my V8's and their low down grunt and that sound... Ohhh that sound..... I have to say I've loved my TD5,,,, Relatively powerful (especially when mapped and played with a little), torque'y at low rpm, revs well, sounds great (For a diesel) and when I looked at the bores recently when the head was off, still had clear honing lines with 130k miles on the clock..... Hoping for another 130k from this one.... Neil

Thierry, The place for the pin to go into the bell housing and lock the flywheel is covered with a plug.... In this picture is the one near top right of the picture in flat surface of the bell housing (The one that is looking down and obviously not bolting the bell housing to the engine...) The pins are widely available from a lot of suppliers. The larger of the two is threaded and screws into the bell housing when the engine is in the correct position only... This is what it looks like when it's inserted..... (representative picture as this might not be the right gearbox but I'm sure you get the idea....) If you have the pin in the cam and cannot screw the pin into the bell housing / flywheel it's probably because the timing is out and the only solution is to remove the top cam pin, move the engine around the fraction required to insert the pin into the bell housing and release the three bolts holding the cam chain to the cam a little so you can also insert the pin in the top of the engine.... The Inertia switch I was referring to is the one shown here in the middle of this picture.... Taking the plug off the bottom stops the engine from running (Just like it would be if the switch is tripped in a crash) but lets you crank it over.... Regards Neil

1 - No.. It does drop down but then stays where it is and lifts up and into place once the head is back on.... Have a read through the last link I posted above... Picture just above the dowel comparison picture shows the timing chain and sprocket in situ before the head goes back on.. it just sits there waiting for you Have you got a timing pin set and have you got the pin in the flywheel as well?? 2 - Before tightening the three retaining bolts, and with both timing pins in, turn, lever, gently force the chain wheel anti-clockwise so the chain on the right is tight. Hold it like this while you tighten your first bolt. Loctite and tighten the other two and tighten to correct torque, then remove and loctite the last one. The pins can be removed now and tensioners inserted etc. In the same thread mentioned he inserts the cam tensioners before tightening the three cam bolts. In the official procedure it's tighten the cam bolts first and then insert tensioners to remove the slack... Doing as I describe above certainly returned my engine to previous performance. Doing it the way of the linked thread it was slightly lacking, and when checked again with the timing pins, a few degrees out too.... 3 - Some have done it but Land rover say don't and it can't be skimmed.... Depends if you believe the surface is flat (very flat) or not... I was "lucky" in that I didn't know if I had a cracked head so replaced the head. No issues with skimming... Having cleaned my old head carefully, I'd use it again without skimming. It's probably wise to do the front crank seal when the radiator is out but engine still whole... You will turn the engine over at some point undoing the crank bolt and doing it up therefore do it while the engine is in a known and moveable state. When putting it all back together, take your time and set the injectors adjustment properly (Google it, it's well documented) and make sure you have a very well charged battery and potentially a jump vehicle / pack. Purge the fuel system at least 6 times.... Remove the connector to the crash switch on the bulkhead and crank until your oil pressure light goes out. Attatch the switch connector again and then crank for real.. Fingers crossed you will have purged enough / all of the air for it to fire and run sweet.... Neil

It's worth getting hold of a set if timing pins for the TD5. One goes into the flywheel (through the bell-housing) when at tdc and the other in the head to lock the cam. You can line up the bright links, the cam hole and the flywheel hole but it may take up to 18 revolutions for it all to line up. Be patient, keep going and you will see. (The cam gears are made to rotate so the chain and gears wear evenly and can take a lot of turns to get it all lined up) Using the timing pins is the way of getting the timing right when you put it back together. When it's all back on and tightened down, before putting the chain tensioner back in, put the leading edge of the chain (Right hand side of the engine as you look from the front) under tension when you tighten the three bolts that fix it to the Cam. It's amazing what a difference this makes to the running.. A few degrees is very noticeable. I would get new exhaust manifold studs while it's apart. I use the Wurth ones.. Longer but they are stronger too. Probably wise to get a top end gasket set from the likes of Turners... Everything you need (And a few left over like valve seals) including o-rings for the injector loom etc. ( http://www.turnerengineering.co.uk/acatalog/TD5-Gasket-Set-Top-520.html ) I also stole an idea from another who had posted up somewhere online. I wrote the bolt numbers on the head before tightening. I also marked each bolt (nearby) after each stage of tightening in the 5 stage process. That way it's easier to follow the correct sequence and harder to lose your place and not know what stage of the tightening process you are on... As others have said.. It's heavy so invest in a strong friend or some sort of lifting gear. Good guide to removal.... http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-tutorials/66259-td5-cylinder-head-removal-how.html Have a look for a few post by this guy.... They are quite helpful.... http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-chatter/66645-how-fit-td5-head-pt1.html Some bit are fiddly but take your time, be meticulous in your cleaning and preparation and all should be fine. Neil

I've already replaced mine.... In the picture the one you want is where my "99" relay is.... Happy hunting... The intermittent gap is set but clicking down for intermittent, back up and wait for the duration you want. When screen wet / the gap you want is up, click down again and your intermittent wipe will be the gap you just set between the up and down movements... (Does that make sense?) Neil

What engine?? TD5 you can hear relay click but if solenoid jammed / not making contact it will not turn the engine!!

I got mine from our friendly local (ish) supplier Rich. Can't remember brand (Possibly Allmakes / Bearmach) (Genuine seals and Ashcroft CV's /Shafts) Mine are later type but not fallen off yet. ?

There is a network of places for Motorhomes.... http://en.airecampingcar.com/ http://www.all-the-aires.com/ http://www.motorhomefacts.com/modules.php?name=Aires Other sites are available.... Rocking up at one of these should add a level of safety and possibly someone to talk to Neil

Both Ally V8 and Turners suggested that diesel washing the oil away / diluting it's effect was the probably cause. Util I get in further I won't really know any more.. It may be a crack.. You never know with these things... For now, I can understand the "maybe" cause and the logic behind it....

My take is it was a very small leak... Pressure under combustion in each cylinder is immense.... A very small amount of diesel being blown back 2,000 times per minute for the last 20k miles or so (Since I changed injector seals) will dilute the oil locally by small amount... Not hard to picture localised damage over a period of time. But as leak was probably very small, engine ran fine (You drove it recently, so you know about that..) it wasn't affecting performance....

Top scores to Ally V8... Number 5 injector had a small leak past the bottom seal by the looks of it.. Enough to blow diesel back under pressure and thin the oil in the local area and cause the cam and follower wear....?? Now to finish the stripping down and make good this weekend. Fingers crossed !!! Neil

As far as I can tell it was.... Last few tanks have been 27+ MPG and no noticeable change in oil level... Diesel would make sense as you describe it though. Maybe more will come to light as I take it apart. Neil

I would but most of the engine is still in fine fettle and I don't have that money available.... (According to Mrs Freak...)

The TD5 is a great engine Stephen and I like the 90 a lot but I would still dearly like a V8 of some sort again.... Or maybe an A6 with a V10 LOL

What I need is a nice V8 again.....

Top end it is.... A nice call to the lovely Frida on Tuesday and feel poor for a while again LOL