V8 Freak

Dave from your first reply.. Ashtrans.... http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/

I use something like this.... http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=400770370584 Worked well for several years so far....

Personally I would only crimp, not solder... A really good crimp joint should close up most of the gaps and hold for years....

But surely as the registered keeper you can sell, repair etc. Are you concerned the vehicle is not SORN and therefore maybe liable for some historic charges?

Ralph, Wondering if that prop failed because of undue lateral pressure in the vice when knocking the UJ through.... Don't know what method you followed but if clamping the vice to close up the UJ cups put pressure on the yoke instead it may have aggravated a fracture that was already developing in there.... Just a thought. Neil

There is only so much surface area you can create on a radiator. Mine filled the normal space at the front but was deeper and thus held more water. I doubt I managed to increase the surface area for cooling at the same rate as I increased the water volume. Anyways... I don't own it any longer and have other things to devote my thinking time to...

I didn't have the seal and the bonnet was set slightly high to permit heat to escape all round.... All can add to the cooling effect. I found when driving normally I had no issues. When crawling on lanes etc. no issues. Stationary no issues.... I put the holes and extra cooling in just in case I was sitting in mud etc. and there was no air flow under the vehicle at all... When it came to a 2nd gear low crawl up 7,000 feet of mountain tracks I had to stop several times to cool the engine. On reflection I think I may have gone too oversized on the radiator and too large a reservoir of water. Basically I had water storing heat (Energy) and the engine always making more but my capacity to dispel that energy was too low.... With a smaller capacity radiator, I would have been storing less hot water, less energy, and would have probably been able to maintain a bit more of a balance overall..... It was a moderately tuned 4.6.. Apart from that, every little helps to get hot air out of the engine bay....

Look about normal Rich... The springs do try to escape but generally only one edge, and tend to stay in place ok. Neil

All sorted....

If you go for the Carlos Vandango - Super-dooper go fast version with thing attached.... You won't leave it on your spare wheel carrier up a mountain in Italy and lose it either.....

When some take offense and report it we will usually remove it to keep the peace.... Humour is permitted but not usually on days with a "Y" in them...

No it doesn't.. I un-lock mine and remove the key before taking the filler cap off....

Not got many pictures of mine but I had a bespoke housing made based in Nige's idea.... It used the Land Rover filter and was fastened to the rear of the engine... I may have some more somewhere on the hard drives if you need me to look.... Snorkel went up through the O/S wing fake vent.... Neil

Stop putting fuel in? It looks like pressure building up and forcing it's way past the seal or air vent in the caps..... But I can't see why a new cap didn't sort it !!

Sit at 100 MPH for 3 hours... In a TD5 90??? Nah.....

Iain, Thinking about it, all the alternator fans need to do is get the air from inside the alternator to the outside.. It can then be blown back past the alternator in the airflow you mention.... I doubt there is any positive air flow directly into the front of the alternator due to the fan design & pulley. The fan is typically a flat plate at the front and the pulley in front of that blocking a direct route into the alternator..... I suppose the biggest question for me is what is the temperature of the air at the back of the alternator compared to the front.... Is it really pulling cool air in or air that's potentially just cooler than the alternator internals?

Oh dear god no.......

His balls are not a problem... We were inspecting them closely at the weekend.. They were amazingly dry and looking stunning.... (But not the seal retainers which were rather dull...)

Stick with your design and refresh it....

James, The newer Mantec ones have a soft of piston affair that starts to rattle about soon after installation. I fitted an additional rubber bush between the piston housing and wheel carrier so it's under compression when closed. Sorted.... The older hinged versions are much better in my opinion....

Mo hasn't been under and polished his since they were installed. They were looking a little dull when we looked at the weekend. Can he have a refund as they didn't stay shiny.....?

Remember to leave a grass track or absorbent area between the slabs to allow for the usual Defender spot marking..... (Easier to hide it than clean off slabs.....)

He was distraught James.... Poor chap was nearly in tears....

What on earth have you been doing James !!