V8 Freak

Looks like all car mags / online car associated press were given the same two cars in the same location to record their launch reviews..

I like it.

Or just buy a complete Plug and Play system (Including loom) from Megasquirt V8 ..... Highly likely it can be installed in a day !!!

Just a quick note to pull this to a close.... Yesterday the owner did some checks... All sensors between 998 - 1008 ohms. Spare / old hub and sensor (That had previously recorded an error in the ECU) counted at 60 teeth and sensor within specified range. Owner looked at the last hub they installed... O-ring around the top of the sensor perished.. Only 6 months old. Sensor itself corroded and evidence of water in the tube. Hub & sensor swapped out for the older spare. All was good. No more random pulling and no errors recorded in the ECU. Thanks for you help all, especially @sierrafery for pointing him in the right direction....

I seem to recall that the TD5 will not rev for around 10 seconds if the MAF is disconnected. Normal service resumed once it decides there is no MAF and resorts to using a stock table from its memory. I suggest a new / known good MAF to start with and then check the wire continuity down to the plug to the ECU. Had a friend who had MAF wire broken at ecu socket. (As well as air temp sensor wire) Truck ran but because of temp sensor was under powered. The only thing that really stops them running is a lack of Crank sensor.... Other than that they a have a lot of redundancy options built in.

Thanks.. I've passed this along. He thinks it was after replacing the rears the TC issue started so will start with those....

@sierraferyIs there any way to check this ?

Hi all, Asking on behalf of a friend that has an ongoing issue with their D2.... (Honest.. I don't own a D2... ) It's 2003 Automatic TD5. No lift, running AT's, standard sizes... The story so far... Issue: ABS light comes on Nanocom reporting ABS sensor and shuttle valve Action: Over 12 month period all hubs / ABS sensors replaced Shuttle valve replaced After this there has been no re-occurrence of the ABS light / codes so assuming ABS now functioning properly. Then.... While all of this is going on and being sorted... Issue: Vehicle randomly applying brakes (Left and right) under 30 mph Action: ABS block replaced Sub 15 kph Nanocom reporting front wheels spinning 1kph faster than rears. Everything else looks fine. No errors in Wabco ECU when read with Nanocom. Assuming that this was two issues... 1 - ABS block / shuttle valve and hubs / ABS sensors worn 2 - Traction control system applying brakes (And doing what it thinks is right as no codes recorded) - No light on Dash to suggest TC engaged The current thinking now is that ABS system is functioning normally it's highlighted the newer / second issue. Issue is now in the TC system, but don't know where / how to track this down as not reporting any error codes. Next up is trying replacement ecu (older model than current 2003 build) to see if this can eliminate ECU. If it does, will find correct SRD500070 unit from 2003/4. We may also swap the wheels front to rear to see if this changes anything... @sierrafery - When researching this I've seen you posting on quite a lot of threads relating to the Wabco ABS / TC systems and highlighting this thread to you in case you have any thoughts / recommendations. Can anyone help / suggest any further diagnostics to try and resolve this?

I'm still only part way through but loving the continuity and seeing how much you actually had to do to bring this back to life.... A credit to your skills new, and old.

C'mon.... Apart from a little puncture we learned a lot that day.... Very capable beastie but not enough clearance on the angles.... I was impressed by it for the majority of the day !!! Is it about here I post the video of Ash wobbling his 110??

I gave Rich a few of these stickers last week so he can monitor temps in his R380.....

Looks like the Nakatenga one... https://www.nakatanenga.de/en/optional-equipment/exterior/spare-wheel-carriers/1999/nakatanenga-spare-wheel-carrier-defender-sw/ht

There are lots of conspiracy theories on this and I've seen many people talk about cheap / carp Supermarket fuels.. All fuel in the UK needs to meet a minimum specification and the Supermarkets typically buy their fuel from the bigger refiners / brands. The only differences are likely to be any additives, which are typically cleaning agents (i.e. they do not aid combustion) so long term use of a high end brand fuel "may" result in a cleaner engine internally. That all said, I always use Supermarket fuel (Having bought fuel for a major supermarket in the UK in the past as one of my roles) and never had any issues.. When I use other brands while away from UK, or supermarkets I don't notice any perceptible difference in performance. A few years ago when I changed the head on my TD5 @150k ish miles the internals were in fine fettle, looking no worse than any other Diesels I've seen. I'm just wondering if your pump / setup is somehow optimised for Veg oil Rich, without you knowing how or why!!

The flywheel to crank number offered does look incredibly low. I've found this online which may help you decide...

@FridgeFreezer, Do you have a small action camera you can mount from the wing and then go for a slow drive with lots of turns involved? Would hopefully then see if the end of the CV is moving out on that side....

Just had a look and they do look similar.... Like you say, some fab work to bring the location points out from the chassis rails but other than that connections wouldn't be too hard !

The whole rusting vehicle or use the steering box as an alternative?

Hi there... You don't say why you want to look at this.. Do you have a specific problem or just curious? If you are looking to check the timing on your TD5 engine, you will need timing pins (One for the flywheel - Fitted through the bellhousing and one that is fitted once the rocker cover is removed.) Timing pins like these.... Timing chains rarely wear on a TD5 as they are designed in such a way that it takes something like 26 revolutions for them to get back to their start position. You turn the engine and when the gap in the flywheel lines up with the hole in the bellhousing, screw in the bottom pin. Up top you will need to remove the acoustic cover (3 X 13 mm) and then the MAF to turbo pipework, including the pipe from the rocker cover. The rocker cover has 13 X 8 mm bolts. You will need a new rocker cover gasket ! (LVP000020) Once this is all off.. You will see the top of the timing chain at the front of the engine. Just behind it in the head is a little slot for the second timing pin. If it won't drop in, your timing is out. To adjust the timing you need to go in a little deeper. If you need to adjust, you need to remove the fan cover and viscous fan etc. You need to set the top pin first... So, remove to bottom one and turn the engine slowly unto the top pin drops in.... (if you are lucky, two bright links will be at the top of the timing chain.... Don't worry if they aren't... They may be several rotations off being at the top) There is a circular black plastic cover on the front of the cylinder head... Usually the cause of leaks... (Evidence below) When removed you may have a picture looking like this.... Top pin inserted, chain gear showing timing mark (Maybe two bright links), and the three bolts the hold the timing chain to the camshaft. You need to loosen these three bolts a tad..... Then get back under and rotate the engine the small amount needed (Hopefully small amount) to be able to screw the bottom pin in.. With both pins now inserted the engine timing is correct. Tighten one of the three bolts in the cam. Then remove the remaining two... Clean them thoroughly and apply a little loctite... Replace the two and tighten. Then remove the last one, clean and loctite etc. You should now be safe to remove both pins. Either fit a new front round black panel or clean really well and seal with good temperature tolerant sealant. While you are in there it's wise to replace the injector loom if it's not been done for a few years. (AMR6103) Loads of video's etc. online to help you there.... (Video that includes changing injector harness) Clean rocker cover and fit new gasket. It pays to add two small spots of sealant at the back where the semi-circular part lands on the head as those little corner sections that cup around the cam tend to leak. Tighten down all 13 bolts. Refit fan, fan cover, breather tube to top of engine and all the pipework you removed.... From airbox to turbo. Refit the acoustic cover. Fingers crossed, it will start..... (Just make sure you've removed the bottom pin !!)

You may be right, but they may just be looking to cream off the top of the SUV market for great tarmac vehicles... Look how long the waiting list got got the Evoke... Over 6 months at some points... Something capable off-road in farmer spec isn't going to make them money.... They all run around on quads or in buggies these days...

And it will sell in great numbers regardless of not meeting the buyers in whatever marketplace....

I read somewhere that these aren't made new any longer ! When Mo needed one a while back he was told Britpart was the only official source as Adwest weren't selling to anyone else at the time... If you can get one, it may be Britpart, with Adwest on the stamp, but no telling what the final quality may be.... Paddocks are advertising new....

James, I have a system from Griffin... (http://www.griffinperformance.co.uk/index.htm) Stainless with a custom exit from the rear box modelled on SteveG's old 90... Great fit and still looks great under the truck... James is a really nice guy and I felt happy to buy from his as he knew Rupert (Our resident mad farmer)... The site only mentions a 300 but I'm sure 200 is something that he will have a pattern for too... Mine was around £500 with straight through centre section in 2014.... I've since added another centre box from James as it droned on a bit once I went to auto.. (Sign of me getting old?) Pics when installed.... Taken last weekend....

Oh no.. Not another Gender Fluidity anxiety attack I hope.....

They were safely wedged in...... (No loctite)

I know the ride wasn't that comfortable and articulation was poor, but the Flintstones vehicles are back to basics..... Not them fancy leaf springs.... Pah.. Way too modern.... And Gears !!!!! Gears..... Just pedal faster with the feet..... Many of the "Longbeards" types on here are still upset the 200tdi was replaced.... Shame on Land Rover for upsetting them....