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V8 Freak

Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
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Everything posted by V8 Freak

  1. I gave Rich a few of these stickers last week so he can monitor temps in his R380.....
  2. Looks like the Nakatenga one... https://www.nakatanenga.de/en/optional-equipment/exterior/spare-wheel-carriers/1999/nakatanenga-spare-wheel-carrier-defender-sw/ht
  3. There are lots of conspiracy theories on this and I've seen many people talk about cheap / carp Supermarket fuels.. All fuel in the UK needs to meet a minimum specification and the Supermarkets typically buy their fuel from the bigger refiners / brands. The only differences are likely to be any additives, which are typically cleaning agents (i.e. they do not aid combustion) so long term use of a high end brand fuel "may" result in a cleaner engine internally. That all said, I always use Supermarket fuel (Having bought fuel for a major supermarket in the UK in the past as one o
  4. The flywheel to crank number offered does look incredibly low. I've found this online which may help you decide...
  5. @FridgeFreezer, Do you have a small action camera you can mount from the wing and then go for a slow drive with lots of turns involved? Would hopefully then see if the end of the CV is moving out on that side....
  6. Just had a look and they do look similar.... Like you say, some fab work to bring the location points out from the chassis rails but other than that connections wouldn't be too hard !
  7. The whole rusting vehicle or use the steering box as an alternative?
  8. Hi there... You don't say why you want to look at this.. Do you have a specific problem or just curious? If you are looking to check the timing on your TD5 engine, you will need timing pins (One for the flywheel - Fitted through the bellhousing and one that is fitted once the rocker cover is removed.) Timing pins like these.... Timing chains rarely wear on a TD5 as they are designed in such a way that it takes something like 26 revolutions for them to get back to their start position. You turn the engine and when the gap in the flywheel lines up with the hole in
  9. You may be right, but they may just be looking to cream off the top of the SUV market for great tarmac vehicles... Look how long the waiting list got got the Evoke... Over 6 months at some points... Something capable off-road in farmer spec isn't going to make them money.... They all run around on quads or in buggies these days...
  10. And it will sell in great numbers regardless of not meeting the buyers in whatever marketplace....
  11. I read somewhere that these aren't made new any longer ! When Mo needed one a while back he was told Britpart was the only official source as Adwest weren't selling to anyone else at the time... If you can get one, it may be Britpart, with Adwest on the stamp, but no telling what the final quality may be.... Paddocks are advertising new....
  12. James, I have a system from Griffin... (http://www.griffinperformance.co.uk/index.htm) Stainless with a custom exit from the rear box modelled on SteveG's old 90... Great fit and still looks great under the truck... James is a really nice guy and I felt happy to buy from his as he knew Rupert (Our resident mad farmer)... The site only mentions a 300 but I'm sure 200 is something that he will have a pattern for too... Mine was around £500 with straight through centre section in 2014.... I've since added another centre box from James as it droned on a bit once I went t
  13. Oh no.. Not another Gender Fluidity anxiety attack I hope.....
  14. I know the ride wasn't that comfortable and articulation was poor, but the Flintstones vehicles are back to basics..... Not them fancy leaf springs.... Pah.. Way too modern.... And Gears !!!!! Gears..... Just pedal faster with the feet..... Many of the "Longbeards" types on here are still upset the 200tdi was replaced.... Shame on Land Rover for upsetting them....
  15. My assumptions were basic Rich.... If there is no hydraulic pressure, the OD won't engage. Therefore the normal / default drive mode must be reliant on the springs holding the brake/clutch cone firmly in one position (locking the sun gear and annulus) and that state being changed when the hydraulic pressure forces the brake/clutch cone into position on the opposite surface (Sun gear locked stationary - forcing drive through the planetary gears / changed gearing) The hydraulic pressure is quoted to be over 400 psi, so should overcome the springs quite easily, even if the spring r
  16. The fact it slipped at the first move of the day would suggest it's not hydraulic.... Sometimes just dipping the clutch and going again solved it for days. Hence focus on the springs eventually... (As well as the extensive overhaul...) I was wondering if there was a way to pack the springs and add a little extra force to them for testing?
  17. Back in 2011 / 2012 ish, I read bout the TK102 that Si Rafferty had hidden in his truck. I bought one and installed it, and although now in a different truck, it's still going strong. It might be limited by the GSM network but costs me something like £10 per month for the text only SIM to have a little piece of mind. There is a small App written by a member on here (Called TKController) that can be used to control the commands easily. So when parked up at home, or anywhere new overnight, I set a virtual fence and if broken the unit sends me texts with locations every 30 seconds
  18. Although already under pressure when fitting the nuts to the spring retainers, it may be worth trying spacers / washers under the nuts to add a little more spring pressure and see if it make the difference you are looking for?
  19. I've pretty much replaced all but the case itself at one point... Rich is right, the oil pressure isn't used when not in Overdrive mode as far as I can work out... Therefore, the springs are important to keep the pressure on the brake cone and give you normal drive. When the solenoid is activated, it pumps oil to move the brake cone to lock the internals and force the drive through the three planetary gears. It should just be clamping pressure from the springs needed for normal drive. So unless oil pressure is getting by the solenoid and acting against the spring pressure,
  20. Well George... It's official.. You have a lawn mower... Great to see it running so sweet.....
  21. I was only thinking out loud while typing Ralph.... Filters, springs, brake media, spragg clutch "should" all be ok.. So the only thing that came to mind was suitable fluid pressure to force the cone to act as a brake and route the drive torque through the planetary gears.... (If my recollection is right, spragg is only really a reverse safeguard!) Therefore if filters are clear it could point to potential wear in the pump mechanism?
  22. If you're going onside, here's a pic of the brake / clutch material for comparison to new... And the obligatory pic of the new spragg clutch.. And springs... Might be worth checking the piston that generates the oil pressure? I'm assuming it needs oil pressure to hold the brake / clutch material into the Overdrive position to make drive go through the planetary gears? (Effectively the cone is a brake not a clutch) Or do as Rich suggests and build one from the best parts of both?
  23. Sorry to see this Ralph.... After new clutch / brake material, springs, filter and spragg clutch it was behaving itself until it ran low on oil. As I explained before, we only discovered the oil leak once we made camp that night and it was taken out that evening. It wasn't slipping all the time.. Only on a few occasions but once we discovered the leak it was safest to remove it.... It sat un-touched in the box as you got it for two years.... I believed it to be in good order but didn't have any vehicle to fit it to...
  24. Hi, I’m lucky to have a friend with a farm who let me install a 4 post Koni ramp. It’s served us well for nearly 10 years now but the uprights are in need of a lick of paint. (And remove some surface rust) Where I could do with your help is to find replacement stickers that are a requirement of the farm annual safety assessment. I've done weeks of searching online, I’ve written to Stertil Koni but they aren’t being very helpful. (They want me to upgrade !) Can anyone suggest how I might get replacements? Thanks in advance ....
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