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V8 Freak

Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
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Everything posted by V8 Freak

  1. Ralph, The OD did have a history of slipping and as a result it had new brake / clutch material & new springs, filter etc. Last time it was used it was under Mo's truck and was fine all the way down through Europe for approx. 1k miles. It slipped a little when one day and we discovered it was leaking atf from around the solenoid, so for safety sake, we removed it for the remainder of the trip as the atf was low and we didn't have any to hand. (Or a way of sensibly sealing around the solenoid.) As discussed with you when selling it to you, it hadn't been used since the
  2. I agree with Badger... Looks like aftermarket connections... Standard Land Rover ones have more of an econoseal look and are only two pin...
  3. Yes.. There may have been some room to play with but I was using the original top of the single din unit as a guide. The switches and connectors come down a surprisingly long way!
  4. This evening after a day and a bit of "cooking" the facia in the airing cupboard, I hoped it was set enough to handle and fit the switches back in etc. And then to fit it all into the truck... All working and now I'll have a few days figuring out how to use it....
  5. Oh no... Don't get upset Ross.. Just crack on and show us some more updates....
  6. Yes Ross. Read out messages etc and mirror nav apps like Waze and Google maps. Less distraction or temptation to read messages etc. Don’t worry... They will be smaller and higher spec when your 90 needs one
  7. The unit is a JVC KW-M745DBT Mudstuff are selling them but they are £10 cheaper in Halfrauds...
  8. With JVC having launched a mech-less double din head unit and the reviews being quite good, I decided it was time to bite the bullet and see if we couldn't make it fit into the 90.... Pull the dash apart to reveal dust from various parts of Europe.... Then set to some hacking.... The insert section was always a poor fit, so I decided to use some clear Gorilla Glue I had in the cupboard to bond it in... One edge sat proud so clamped overnight.... Some filling and hacking later..... I decided to fill the recess to sit the unit on the surfa
  9. I discovered similar in my drivers door in 2015..... Rather than strip the door and welding I grabbed a bit of metal and made a temporary repair.... And it's still going strong !!! Not managed to find the time to sort it properly yet and last time I looked it was still all in the same place I left it...
  10. Personally I think going to a tdi is a massive step backwards.... The TD5 in standard form has plenty of low down torque and revs really happily past 4k... I don't know how you quantify a good used head... Was the head tested in any way? Was it totally flat? I've put over 100k on my engine since I got it and it's ran really well. I had an issue with the cam hardening failing on the injector cam and replaced the head for speed more than anything and the internals looked really good while the top was off. If the head is good, the correct head gasket used, new bolts and the
  11. Glad you didn't trash it after all the work George.... Did feel for you when I watched it though.....
  12. I looked for a while Ross and didn't smell any Spam.... None of the links in the link seem to be sellers from the Ukraine..... How did you conduct your Spam testing?
  13. That's a good update.. I had looked at those rods for some time.... If you feel the need I have a spare floor panel for the RRC if you feel yours needs replacing at any point... Just the distance that is the barrier though...
  14. Our garage door is similar to Peaklanders.... Cost installed was round £1400 I think.... Or how about sliding doors to maximise space in the roof and floor etc. ave them opening along the right hand wall ....
  15. Hi There.... Black fluid would suggest worn clutch master / slave rubbers wearing. Probably sensible to change both master and slave at the same time and adjust your pedal height as per Haynes / Land Rover manual when re-fitted.
  16. I was kinda assuming the same as @Anderzander..... Ctek provide the fly-leads which suggests they don't expect you to isolate the battery !! I'd have a go Mo and get a friendly man with a yellow van to check the battery status now and after several sessions on the charger...
  17. It might be worth viewing this series of video's for other ideas and ways of checking items.... (Covers crank sensor testing, fuel pressure, fuel pump etc.) It might help to systematically eliminate things you have reviewed and explain how to test others. It doesn't cover the alarm system however... ;(
  18. Great news and thanks for letting us know it was the solution.
  19. Agree with your assessment of the starter. Have you checked the starter relay? Row of relays just above the fuses in the cab. 2nd or 3rd in from left dependant on vehicle spec. All the yellow ones are the same so you can swap to test if needed. Simple check is fuse cover removed, fingers on the relays and turn the key and feel if the relay click? If not, it’s either the relay or something else breaking the circuit, potentially your secondary alarm system.
  20. When all attached the first stage is does it crank. If not then you need to focus on getting it to crank first.. (Obvs it won't run if you can't crank ) The shiny bits get all blackened as they arc over time... Easy enough to access and clean.. (Refurb kits available on the interweb.)
  21. My head is thinking this is more than one issue. If we assume the loom is good, crank sensor is good, assume the secondary alarm / immobiliser is not broken and we know ECU and associated is good.... It could be this... Starter solenoid needs a rebuild. It started randomly after fiddling then stopped and won't crank. What if the stopping was fuel starvation and now the starter solenoid contacts are stuck again? (So won't crank) Process of elimination I'd follow. Remove starter and clean the contact surfaces in the solenoid. This is well documented and is not too h
  22. Errrr..... Many years since I changed mine ! Did these parts get taken out when the housing was switched ? I would be tempted to go with book and fit the new valve in the space of the orange thing If you can purge ok and it starts and runs, then take it for a run and warm it up. If it doesn’t purge, doesn’t run then time to re-think.
  23. A guess would be air in the system... There is a little air bleed valve (part number WJN500110) that may have been disturbed when you changed the fuel filter housing.... Needs to be in the right hole and fitted correctly... This is known to affect warm starting. Have a look here....
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