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V8 Freak

Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
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Posts posted by V8 Freak

  1. My assumptions were basic Rich....

    If there is no hydraulic pressure, the OD won't engage.

    Therefore the normal / default drive mode must be reliant on the springs holding the brake/clutch cone firmly in one position (locking the sun gear and annulus) and that state being changed when the hydraulic pressure forces the brake/clutch cone into position on the opposite surface (Sun gear locked stationary - forcing drive through the planetary gears / changed gearing)

    The hydraulic pressure is quoted to be over 400 psi, so should overcome the springs quite easily, even if the spring rate is increased.....

  2. Back in 2011 / 2012 ish, I read bout the TK102 that Si Rafferty had hidden in his truck.

    I bought one and installed it, and although now in a different truck, it's still going strong.

    It might be limited by the GSM network but costs me something like £10 per month for the text only SIM to have a little piece of mind.

    There is a small App written by a member on here (Called TKController) that can be used to control the commands easily. So when parked up at home, or anywhere new overnight,  I set a virtual fence and if broken the unit sends me texts with locations every 30 seconds and calls me to alert me to the fact it's passed through the fence.... 

    You can wire in an immobiliser if you wish and I believe even a panic style button to send messages to numbers in it's list.

    When my battery ran low  while back it even started to text me to warn me it's battery was low....

    If it were stolen, I can give the number to the police and they can get regular location texts just by sending a basic command... So they "could" track the vehicle.

    I'd guess that Skytag and the likes have software that plots these types of  messages and produces the breadcrumb trail and do the legwork in liaison with the police.

     

    For a cheap option, I'd happily recommend a TK unit of some sort.

  3. I've pretty much replaced all but the case itself at one point...

    Rich is right, the oil pressure isn't used when not in Overdrive mode as far as I can work out...

    Therefore, the springs are important to keep the pressure on the brake cone and give you normal drive.

    When the solenoid is activated, it pumps oil to move the brake cone to lock the internals and force the drive through the three planetary gears.

    It should just be clamping pressure from the springs needed for normal drive. So unless oil pressure is getting by the solenoid and acting against the spring pressure, it "should work".

  4. I was only thinking out loud while typing Ralph....

    Filters, springs, brake media, spragg clutch "should" all be ok.. So the only thing that came to mind was suitable fluid pressure to force the cone to act as a brake and route the drive torque through the planetary gears.... (If my recollection is right, spragg is only really a reverse safeguard!)

    Therefore if filters are clear it could point to potential wear in the pump mechanism?

  5. If you're going onside, here's a pic of the brake / clutch material for comparison to new...1816647175_2016-07-0616_21_52.thumb.jpg.08cf52faa3096339e881a53e9de6e7f3.jpg

    2028858350_2016-07-0616_22_04.thumb.jpg.0d2df754bf4ea83f03640e411fc8366f.jpg

    And the obligatory pic of the new spragg clutch.. :)

    420301814_2016-07-3015_10_02.thumb.jpg.634a071f3de4d1624ddcc5efff3d6ac0.jpg

    And springs...

    662837707_2016-08-2513_37_33.thumb.jpg.2a7d887352873d9ebee9eb0451a7b189.jpg

    Might be worth checking the piston that generates the oil pressure? I'm assuming it needs oil pressure to hold the brake / clutch material into the Overdrive position to make drive go through the planetary gears? (Effectively the cone is a brake not a clutch)

    Or do as Rich suggests and build one from the best parts of both?

  6. Sorry to see this Ralph....

    After new clutch / brake material, springs, filter and spragg clutch it was behaving itself until it ran low on oil. 

    As I explained before, we only discovered the oil leak once we made camp that night and it was taken out that evening. It wasn't slipping all the time.. Only on a few occasions but once we discovered the leak it was safest to remove it.... It sat un-touched in the box as you got it for two years....

    I believed it to be in good order but didn't have any vehicle to fit it to...

    • Like 1
  7. Hi,

    I’m lucky to have a friend with a farm who let me install a 4 post Koni ramp.

    It’s served us well for nearly 10 years now but the uprights are in need of a lick of paint. (And remove some surface rust)

    Where I could do with your help is to find replacement stickers that are a requirement of the farm annual safety assessment.

    I've done weeks of searching online, I’ve written to Stertil Koni but they aren’t being very helpful. (They want me to upgrade !)

    6C7B623A-8FCD-43B7-B838-F8A777926F70.thumb.jpeg.40049bfb49eba0dd209a9fd2f69b2bae.jpeg

    D734C306-C707-4A7E-B3CA-40A812F4D612.thumb.jpeg.68122893f21a4b7bd125bc10b059de7c.jpeg

    C7A820C2-381B-44C7-9A8F-A7F8A80B58E7.thumb.jpeg.f31bca03d1c29e8de8199c72c3bc5d2b.jpeg

    Can anyone suggest how I might get replacements?

    Thanks in advance ....

     

  8. Ralph,

    The OD did have a history of slipping and as a result it had new brake / clutch material & new springs, filter etc. 

    Last time it was used it was under Mo's truck and was fine all the way down through Europe for approx. 1k miles. 

    It slipped a little when one day and we discovered it was leaking atf from around the solenoid, so for safety sake, we removed it for the remainder of the trip as the atf was low and we didn't have any to hand. (Or a way of sensibly sealing around the solenoid.)

    As discussed with you when selling it to you, it hadn't been used since then and I have no reason to suspect anything was wrong with the drive.

  9. With JVC having launched a mech-less double din head unit and the reviews being quite good, I decided it was time to bite the bullet and see if we couldn't make it fit into the 90....

    435816580_2019-04-2712_54_41.jpg.b656eb431e4ec2230b00ff8bfdca4dd0.jpg

    Pull the dash apart to reveal dust from various parts of Europe.... 

    102141005_2019-04-2714_13_10.jpg.b0818be6c29df993f6e7f5d5c8d077ad.jpg

    Then set to some hacking....

    1877366498_2019-04-2715_17_27.jpg.0880b72fbc7129fad9d4e926a7a24df9.jpg

    The insert section was always a poor fit, so I decided to use some clear Gorilla Glue I had in the cupboard to bond it in...

    1047653560_2019-04-2715_36_58.jpg.dd2ab3cef83aa2c62a20f85cb2a72695.jpg

    One edge sat proud so clamped overnight....

    Some filling and hacking later..... 

    1221683612_2019-04-2718_42_47.jpg.18465b085fe493dc9de2cd0d929d1e80.jpg

    I decided to fill the recess to sit the unit on the surface of the dash, mainly because I couldn't figure out how to make a recessed landing point to match the original....

    The insert was still quite proud so that needed leveling with the DA sander.

    895429464_2019-04-2719_09_15.thumb.jpg.db8497594e837bf4c3573511dc402d6c.jpg

    351015430_2019-04-2719_26_05.jpg.22bf3826a22d9a9cfd766c30c1e5ff99.jpg

    1728030623_2019-04-2719_26_12.jpg.b92e7048df9772b4ea6ac768b4559124.jpg

    Quite a few fills and hacks later, using my favorite tool.....

    678540846_2019-04-2811_19_24.jpg.afe94053825bf679b45141837f910f96.jpg

    Time to key the paint and get a cover of colour back onto the panel...

    337153565_2019-04-2811_24_40.jpg.45d8cff98f04608db2d2a77badef2d44.jpg

    445791801_2019-04-2811_33_40.jpg.9fd63570d251fbdd02a1d79e4b85dd0e.jpgProblem..... Gorilla Glue reacted with the paint....

    698177147_2019-04-2811_33_57.thumb.jpg.f860f00bd05f4f56d74d2dec4d38e128.jpg

    So.. Leave it all to dry, hack out the bad stuff and decide the only course of action is to fill the gap with the bad glue...1474957114_2019-04-2815_00_56.jpg.9155548ad7d78e37b9e3675a3016ff53.jpg

    While that was drying, a few wires to sort in the truck and a quick test run....

    907598251_2019-04-2816_36_47.thumb.jpg.46240707a63ad9fc6d8c2662c2f45b18.jpg

    324915110_2019-04-2816_42_19.thumb.jpg.9f37037e974ee857f62dfc6d05e6fe17.jpg

    354811290_2019-04-2816_48_19.thumb.jpg.51bf10c31726247353f21386e4d312d4.jpg

    2022522767_2019-04-2816_52_54.jpg.ff38f3460569dc674a0d9d9dc300fc8d.jpg

    1171629063_2019-04-2816_39_59.thumb.jpg.f13a5a4681dfde2d53b797015ec9d25f.jpg

    Then back in for some more sanding.....

    1570610041_2019-04-2817_37_53.jpg.44c27663913b20385dcb463412aa71a3.jpg

    And a little while later after general 1000 grit smoothing... More paint...157147974_2019-04-2817_45_24.jpg.56179318618a0a79859d66f8b3159ba0.jpg

    It's not perfect, but a few more coats on from this picture most of the little pits have been filled and it's looking ok.

    I plan to leave it to cure for a few days now and get the compressed air into the dash area, clean out some dust and add more lightness....

     

    • Like 2
  10. Personally I think going to a tdi is a massive step backwards....

    The TD5 in standard form has plenty of low down torque and revs really happily past 4k... 

    I don't know how you quantify a good used head... Was the head tested in any way? Was it totally flat? 

    I've put over 100k on my engine since I got it and it's ran really well. I had an issue with the cam hardening failing on the injector cam and replaced the head for speed more than anything and the internals looked really good while the top was off.

    If the head is good, the correct head gasket used, new bolts and the correct clamping procedure used, I see no reason why the gasket should blow so soon. 

    I'd take the time to check the oil pump (pressure) to make sure oil is getting to and through any head fitted. But if it's not overheated and nothing wrong with the oil circulation, I can see no reason why is should blow.

     

    What symptoms do you have that lead you to the conclusion of a blown head gasket?

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