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V8 Freak

Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
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Everything posted by V8 Freak

  1. Hello and welcome to the forum.... I'm hoping someone like @Hybrid_From_Hell will pop in at some point and share his views on this..... He's quite familiar with differentials and lockers etc...
  2. Hi there and welcome to the forum.... I ran a "Roamerdrive" for several years behind a TD5 that had some gentle modifications.... (VGT Turbo, much bigger intercooler, Re-mapped ECU, custom air intake and exhaust to help it all breathe properly) It coped admirably and is about to begin part two of it's life under another members vehicle being used for some long trips around Europe etc... On Paper my engine at peak was probably at the OD's limit, if not above, but I rarely drove it to limits and I doubt you will regularly be on full boost at peak torque etc. With your modifi
  3. Before finishing the original post I too thought starter then saw "it cut out" phrase.... That could literally be anything... What else, if anything did you touch when changing the oil? It's usually something in the actions you went through... If you changed the diesel filter... Did you purge properly to expel air etc.?
  4. I would suggest you try and identify if you have a bent axle or not. I used a length of braising wire to check the distance between the front and rear of the rims of the front wheels. I suggest you do this simple check to see if your wheels at the front are parallel or near to it. If one is wildly out it could be pulling the string away from the front of the rear tyre but it would need to be something severely wrong to pull it away 15mm from one edge of the rear tyre. I'd also do a check on the rear axle as this should also help t see if the rear axle is bent... (Edit - Yo
  5. I'd start by hammering Google and doing some reading... https://smartexpat.com/portugal/how-to-guides/transport/driving/importing-a-car https://europa.eu/youreurope/citizens/vehicles/registration/formalities/portugal/index_en.htm https://www.angloinfo.com/how-to/portugal/transport/vehicle-ownership/vehicle-roadworthiness https://ravingretirees.com/importing-a-car-to-portugal/ The last one refers to a certificate of conformity to show the vehicle hasn't been modified !
  6. Slap an L322 around it and you'll feel right at home !!
  7. I’m up near Cambridge and not planned down your way for a while. Yes, td5 engine..
  8. What connections does the HP22 (Not E) have electronically? Just the Reverse light switch? On my TD5 loom, the reverse light switch connector is near the front of the seat box... If you can figure out what section that could be on the bench it might help. It's passenger side and the connector in this image is the one near the breather. Diff-lock further back as the loom goes across the top of the transfer box and into the drivers seat box. (Where the ECU resides)
  9. Yes, HP22 E but a rebuilt one from Ashcroft. I'm using Compushift and the latest firmware upgrade lets me lock the torque converter in 3rd and 4th so it can be configured to change gear and lock the TC at different speeds / throttle positions. Where are you based? I'm happy to show you the install and how it ll works if you like. Regards engine management... Have a chat with Nigel (Excess4x4 also known as @Hybrid_From_Hell) on here as he's got a lot of experience with Megasquirt... That can happily run a Rover V8... (I had a version running on my 4.6 in the old 110.... Worked ve
  10. I may be wrong, but I suspect that since the TD5 Defender wasn't made with an automatic variant, it won't be included in the loom. There is a reverse light switch and difflock as standard on the manual, so would assume there are wires for this! What you really need to figure out is if the Range Rover gearbox ECU was very intelligent or just did a basic map across of MAP / Throttle and potentially speed? The relationship in the D2 links speed transducer, that fed SLABS which fed speedo and TD5 ECU.... All linked. (And reliant on the TD5 ECU) It my just be simpler to bite the
  11. Something not right with the links Rich.... Anyone else getting the same or is it my work Firewall having a play?
  12. If the wire waggling doesn't work, make sure you are getting power to the started trigger wire when the key is turned... (The wired to the starter solenoid on a spade connector) Assuming it is live when the key is turned to the crank position, then it could be the internal workings of the solenoid stuck... They are known to arc out. Not a hard job to do.. Nut on top of the starter is a fun one to get back on.... Kits are available to replace the contacts and piston.... Tapping the started on the solenoid housing might get you another start or two... If a
  13. Are we talking about these type of rods?
  14. Let me know if you need a pit stop Monday evening when passing the Royston area John.... Can always put the kettle on
  15. Nanocom should show the live switch inputs and show the change when the pedal is depressed. I believe the circuit needs to be closed for CC to work, so try removing the connectors from the switch on the clutch master cylinder and short between the two connectors and go for a drive. Does Nanocom show your brake switch changing state when you depress the pedal? (Do your brake lights work !!)
  16. I think it's been said, but open the top and inspect the cam and followers for the injectors before you keep cranking.... 13 small bolts... Doesn't take long! Doesn't sound like an injector not firing, sounds very metallic from the recording !
  17. We were supposed to come out of the garage??
  18. It's a simple loom to make.... Regards Dakota Digital, I'll look but I've already got a Speedohealer although it's now surplus to requirements a I have my ECU map amended to change the coding for the ratio change.
  19. If you can get 20% more blades in there, balanced and triggering the sensor it might work... Do you know which parts are D2 and which are Defender? Sounds like engine & gearbox loom is D2... Main vehicle loom TD5? If you have a look at the black plug on the Engine ECU and see if the Cruise wires are in there already? It'll still be a case of finding where they pop out at the other end if they do... In a D2 they are are routed to the binnacle / steering column....
  20. I don't think any Defenders had the wiring as standard. If you are using the Disco loom, are you using the Disco clocks as well? I ask because the Disco pulse rate is double the Defender one from the transfer box sender..... The ECU is fed it's information from the clocks...... So you need to know what you've got to stand any chance of getting the Cruise to work... I don't know what blades you are talking about to answer the last part.... Regards the gear changes, they are set high on a Discovery because they used a small Torque Converter with high stall point. (2
  21. If the wiring is still in the loom, the cruise control should be configurable. It gets slightly more complicated if you've gone back to 1.4 transfer case ratio.... (Defender standards) If 1.4 the pulse rates will be wrong.... This can be sorted in a couple of ways... Speedohealer wired in line from the speedo to ECU to drop the speedo to ECU pulse rates, or new map with the parameters changed... (Assumes programmable ECU) Gear change points on the Land Rover units are not changeable. There are different gearbox ECU's for V8 & TD5 variants. The V8 changes down easier
  22. Not here to sell things are we @defendertune ?? I'm sure you read the rules when you signed up.....
  23. Sounds like the one option left then.... How about some of the windscreen type bonding stuff inside the seal as well? It holds glass onto the side of vans and windscreens onto the front of cars after all.... (Caterhams use it to hold mudguards on their cars...)
  24. Steve, I have never had a seal fall off like that... The ones I've fitted have had a metal internal structure that clamps the rubber to the aperture... Have a look and see if you can't crimp the gap in the rubber tighter to hold while the sealant / glue of choice cures.... If needed.
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