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V8 Freak

Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
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Everything posted by V8 Freak

  1. Gazzar..... I've amended your profile so you can edit the post and upload the pictures directly to the server here etc. Hopefully the post will be good for others for many years then....
  2. @Mo Murphy Might be able to help as he went through the process of fitting one a while ago....
  3. Flushing mine didn't work... I ended up replacing it and all was well.
  4. I would investigate if the matrix is blocked. I had a similar issue with my old 110 which caused issues with temperatures spiking when warming up. The Heater matrix is used as part of the open circuit before the thermostat opens. I tried running forced water though mine which suggested there was flow... Compared to a replacement matrix, it was a very restricted flow.... Water should flow through without issue, so adding a pump may not be the answer if the matrix needs replacing.
  5. Watched this last night too.. Good viewing.....
  6. I went the Ashcroft route as well. 18 months on and it's still looking good despite quite a lot of use.....
  7. Just as a precaution, once you've change the oil, I would disengage the inertia button on the bulkhead and crank until your oil pressure light goes out. Re-connect the button to start of course. As above, after doing what you suggest, it'll probably turn and start with a new battery. If changing the fuel filter you will need to purge the fuel system a few times... (Ignition on and push the throttle pedal down fast 5 times. Engine management light should flash and you should hear a lot of gurgling.)
  8. Hi and welcome to the LR4X4... If you can post up some pictures of the engine from various angles we will be able to help you... Neil
  9. Additional Link supplied by @western Defender Water Ingress Manual
  10. I agree.. Door seal around the area where it kinks behind the door strap... I also found that water was going around the windscreen rubber... Where the rubber lays on the frame. With corrosion under the rubber it was like a capillary action sucking water up and then dripping down inside the bulkhead. Of course, it found it's way to the same point and dripped on my right foot. I applied sealant around the rubber after getting a flat wood chisel in there and removing a lot of the corrosion. Next time the screen needs to come out I'll rub down and re-spray the frame.
  11. I have a re-chargeable head torch that I use when under the truck.... I found with a hand held / floor based light source it was usually pointing in the wrong place or I was in the way.... With the light source just above my eyes it tends to be more in the right location and less of me to get in the way !
  12. @garrycol They are quite well tucked up and I've not managed to damage mine in the last 5 years.... Now I will admit I don't do rock crawling like them peeps in the good old "US of A", but do lanes and loads of unpaved tracks in the mountains of Europe.... Maybe Ralph's pic doesn't do the location justice
  13. If my understanding is right, 20 psi is around 1.4 BAR which is the very top end of the limit set in the ECU. (1.42 I think) The MAP sensor is a 2 BAR sensor, referencing it's top end limit. Programmers now can remove the limit or lift it to 1.5 in the ECU to give a little more headroom. I'm running a VGT, bigger PWR intercooler and upgraded MAP, but all programmed to use a 4 BAR sensor, so no chance of reaching the top end of the sensor range. You could check that your actuator has 12-ish turns of thread showing and then remove the boost box and see how it goes with norm
  14. Certainly sounds like it's been mapped in the "old ways" but if it's working then leave well alone. I'd certainly want to be sorting those wires regardless. Personally, I'd try taking the boost box out of the circuit (Leave it physically where it is for now) and see if you get any issues with over-boosting. Engine will cut momentarily when if it senses too much boost. If your driving style doesn't induce the cut in power, I'd take it out of the system altogether. (Obviously I'd try to induce the boost cut with some aggressive, high revving driving too to know when / if it occurs)
  15. Ref the ECU wiring.... White/Yellow looks to be the MAP sensor, so probably just a resistor in there to lower the voltage on the MAP line... Stop Over-boosting most likely. Someone may have had that re-mapped and even played with the turbo actuator, causing an over-boost situation.
  16. What pins does the orange box connect into? I can look at the pin-outs and it may give an idea if it’s meant to be an immobiliser or boost box (fooling the ECU about max boost) etc.
  17. I think you are probably right Mike.... Simon, using one of the other statements above, have you unplugged each sensor in turn? Only the crank sensor should stop it from running and only the MAF / throttle potentiometer stop it from revving to some degree. (And even then it should ignore the MAF and go to a fall-back state if the MAF is dead.) The replacement ECU may not work as it should if a Defender map has been uploaded to a Disco ECU...... (Or the other way around) What model number of ECU is it?
  18. Simon, I'm going to ask a really silly question here.... What model of ECU did you swap into the D2? The D2 and Defender ECU's are different. They will each run the other at tickover but wont rev and silly things happen to gauges when swapped one way... (Can't remember which) What is the model number of the ECU?
  19. I've got a jack from a P38.. After freeing off the rusted joint on the pump handle it's worked a treat every time it's been required...
  20. I can get it down to M25 (A1M) junction quite easily if someone is passing at a convenient point if that helps... (I work in Welwyn Garden City)
  21. As already mentioned... It’s very important to get the torque converter installed on the gearbox correctly. I stood the gearbox on end and lowered the TC on.. Took several attempts to get it fully seated with spines and pump drive notches engaged. The I put a flat edge across the bell housing and measured the gap from straight edge to the lugs / bolt points on the TC. Next, measure the distance from the engine (Where the bellhousing lands) to the side of the flex plate which bolts to the TC. The difference will help you decide if any spacers are needed behind the flex plate
  22. But if you carry two props... There are generally 2 X TD5 90's, a TD5 Disco2 and a 200tdi on our trips... The front prop can go on three of the four vehicles. (Flange change on the D2, which he carries.) The rear can go on two of the vehicles. We carry a mixture of items across the trucks that tend not to double up, but the three of the engines are the same ... I guess it's all about how you go about your planning and what your happy with. My aim is to be on the tracks covering miles. I plan for some eventualities to make sure I can do that and hopefully cover the 3 -
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