V8 Freak

If my understanding is right, 20 psi is around 1.4 BAR which is the very top end of the limit set in the ECU. (1.42 I think) The MAP sensor is a 2 BAR sensor, referencing it's top end limit. Programmers now can remove the limit or lift it to 1.5 in the ECU to give a little more headroom. I'm running a VGT, bigger PWR intercooler and upgraded MAP, but all programmed to use a 4 BAR sensor, so no chance of reaching the top end of the sensor range. You could check that your actuator has 12-ish turns of thread showing and then remove the boost box and see how it goes with normal driving. If you want to spend money, you could get it remapped again and avoid the MAP limits.

Certainly sounds like it's been mapped in the "old ways" but if it's working then leave well alone. I'd certainly want to be sorting those wires regardless. Personally, I'd try taking the boost box out of the circuit (Leave it physically where it is for now) and see if you get any issues with over-boosting. Engine will cut momentarily when if it senses too much boost. If your driving style doesn't induce the cut in power, I'd take it out of the system altogether. (Obviously I'd try to induce the boost cut with some aggressive, high revving driving too to know when / if it occurs)

Ref the ECU wiring.... White/Yellow looks to be the MAP sensor, so probably just a resistor in there to lower the voltage on the MAP line... Stop Over-boosting most likely. Someone may have had that re-mapped and even played with the turbo actuator, causing an over-boost situation.

What pins does the orange box connect into? I can look at the pin-outs and it may give an idea if it’s meant to be an immobiliser or boost box (fooling the ECU about max boost) etc.

I think you are probably right Mike.... Simon, using one of the other statements above, have you unplugged each sensor in turn? Only the crank sensor should stop it from running and only the MAF / throttle potentiometer stop it from revving to some degree. (And even then it should ignore the MAF and go to a fall-back state if the MAF is dead.) The replacement ECU may not work as it should if a Defender map has been uploaded to a Disco ECU...... (Or the other way around) What model number of ECU is it?

Simon, I'm going to ask a really silly question here.... What model of ECU did you swap into the D2? The D2 and Defender ECU's are different. They will each run the other at tickover but wont rev and silly things happen to gauges when swapped one way... (Can't remember which) What is the model number of the ECU?

I've got a jack from a P38.. After freeing off the rusted joint on the pump handle it's worked a treat every time it's been required...

I can get it down to M25 (A1M) junction quite easily if someone is passing at a convenient point if that helps... (I work in Welwyn Garden City)

As already mentioned... It’s very important to get the torque converter installed on the gearbox correctly. I stood the gearbox on end and lowered the TC on.. Took several attempts to get it fully seated with spines and pump drive notches engaged. The I put a flat edge across the bell housing and measured the gap from straight edge to the lugs / bolt points on the TC. Next, measure the distance from the engine (Where the bellhousing lands) to the side of the flex plate which bolts to the TC. The difference will help you decide if any spacers are needed behind the flex plate. Dave Ashcroft advises 1 - 3 mm to make sure the TC it not running in contact with the Grarbox, but rotating on the flex plate but still engage with and driving the stator and oil pump parts....

But if you carry two props... There are generally 2 X TD5 90's, a TD5 Disco2 and a 200tdi on our trips... The front prop can go on three of the four vehicles. (Flange change on the D2, which he carries.) The rear can go on two of the vehicles. We carry a mixture of items across the trucks that tend not to double up, but the three of the engines are the same ... I guess it's all about how you go about your planning and what your happy with. My aim is to be on the tracks covering miles. I plan for some eventualities to make sure I can do that and hopefully cover the 3 - 4k miles we do on the trips each year without issues. Quick bolt on solution for a few kilos of dead weight is a good solution for me. I'm already carrying a tent, stoves, bedding, fridge yada, yada, yada.... You have your view, I have mine. Both different but both what we choose for our application.

I'm usually over a thousand miles from home on these journeys and have others with me that might benefit from them being available.... I wouldn't want to do a lot of the tracks we've done in the past with just 2 wheel drive and additional strain on the T/box. Swapping a prop is much quicker than trying to change a UJ by the roadside. Potentially me carrying the prop means we can all enjoy the whole trip !! It's about caring and sharing JB... Alien concept to some but does happen...

I have a canvas tool roll that lives in the 90 with a range of spanners, screwdrivers, blade, small hammer etc. When travelling I add in additional spares and a Halfords socket set.... Spares are typical wheel bearings, aux belt, tensioner, props etc.

One other top tip... Don't use a slide hammer to get the injectors out.. This method can wreck the injectors. Use a long 6 mm allen key.. If wedged under the injector body right it can be used to simply lever them out...

I've never used anything more than blue tissue paper and only cleaned the sides and never tried to clean the tip at all. AND.... Make sure the land surface in the bottom of the injector hole is very clean.... There are special tools our there but generally I've found an air line with good jet of air is very helpful.... Worst case was very careful use of a flat head screwdriver to pick at any stubborn debris.

Do you not have somewhere in the tent to have the fridge? (Ideally not inside the closed living area as these can get toasty warm in the sun....) Why are you so far away.... You could borrow our Dometic CFX50W fridge if you moved closer !!

Does anyone know if the lenses with reflectors for the Series lights are sold separately? ideally looking for just the reflector part / part number. Thanks in advance.

Hi there.... Water can typically only disappear in two ways. A physical leak that you've been investigating or into the engine some way... - Head Gasket leak into the cylinder(s) and burnt off as steam - Oil cooler corroded and oil / water mixing The second option would be very obvious by now as your engine would be overflowing with water and oil mixed. So if there are no physical leaks to be seen, it could be the head gasket. Someone else with additional knowledge may be along soon to offer other suggestions. Neil

I would suggest removal of the fan and take a good look at the whole viscous unit....

Well done Ralph. That buzzer is suitably annoying and you’ll hate it at busy junctions.... But never leave the indicator on again for sure....

I'll discuss with you in PM later.

Hi There, Glad to hear you are moving the project forward. I think I've seen / read that the pulley wheel needs some machining to provide a flat surface for the trigger wheel to land on. Hopefully @Hybrid_From_Hell, or another knowledgeable person will be along to advise shortly.

There are people out there programming like you saw on Discotd5.com and if programmed well, you can have a high power & torque engine with no smoke and in most cases no issues with MAF. I have a VGT, large PWR intercooler and 4bar MAP sensor (Standard is 2bar), but standard MAF. In theory the engine should be around 190BHP & 380Nm torque at peaks. As it's now Auto, I don't have any MAF cuts as it's rarely on high end revs.... (And as I get older I much prefer to potter the majority of the time.....) There is a member on here who had an upgraded tuning map on a standard engine from the same source and does have some MAF cut issues at high load / high RPM which we've not managed to solve, but it was 4k+ RPM under heavy acceleration. (The same engine had this before the tuning map upgrade too which we cannot understand or cure) Although genuine ones are hard come by, the same programmer will adapt the maps to use a Nissan Skyline MAF which are capable of handling a lot more air volume and eliminate any MAF cut issues.

The early ones did.. They added a hole in the plate that connects it to the LT230 to improve the flow out of the Overdrive... (I'm guessing it made the oil pumps' work a little easier and improved flow.)

I still have a Roamerdrive if you want one Rich... (And a GKN....)

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