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V8 Freak

Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
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Everything posted by V8 Freak

  1. I'm usually over a thousand miles from home on these journeys and have others with me that might benefit from them being available.... I wouldn't want to do a lot of the tracks we've done in the past with just 2 wheel drive and additional strain on the T/box. Swapping a prop is much quicker than trying to change a UJ by the roadside. Potentially me carrying the prop means we can all enjoy the whole trip !! It's about caring and sharing JB... Alien concept to some but does happen...
  2. I have a canvas tool roll that lives in the 90 with a range of spanners, screwdrivers, blade, small hammer etc. When travelling I add in additional spares and a Halfords socket set.... Spares are typical wheel bearings, aux belt, tensioner, props etc.
  3. One other top tip... Don't use a slide hammer to get the injectors out.. This method can wreck the injectors. Use a long 6 mm allen key.. If wedged under the injector body right it can be used to simply lever them out...
  4. I've never used anything more than blue tissue paper and only cleaned the sides and never tried to clean the tip at all. AND.... Make sure the land surface in the bottom of the injector hole is very clean.... There are special tools our there but generally I've found an air line with good jet of air is very helpful.... Worst case was very careful use of a flat head screwdriver to pick at any stubborn debris.
  5. Do you not have somewhere in the tent to have the fridge? (Ideally not inside the closed living area as these can get toasty warm in the sun....) Why are you so far away.... You could borrow our Dometic CFX50W fridge if you moved closer !!
  6. Does anyone know if the lenses with reflectors for the Series lights are sold separately? ideally looking for just the reflector part / part number. Thanks in advance.
  7. Hi there.... Water can typically only disappear in two ways. A physical leak that you've been investigating or into the engine some way... - Head Gasket leak into the cylinder(s) and burnt off as steam - Oil cooler corroded and oil / water mixing The second option would be very obvious by now as your engine would be overflowing with water and oil mixed. So if there are no physical leaks to be seen, it could be the head gasket. Someone else with additional knowledge may be along soon to offer other suggestions. Neil
  8. I would suggest removal of the fan and take a good look at the whole viscous unit....
  9. Well done Ralph. That buzzer is suitably annoying and you’ll hate it at busy junctions.... But never leave the indicator on again for sure....
  10. Hi There, Glad to hear you are moving the project forward. I think I've seen / read that the pulley wheel needs some machining to provide a flat surface for the trigger wheel to land on. Hopefully @Hybrid_From_Hell, or another knowledgeable person will be along to advise shortly.
  11. There are people out there programming like you saw on Discotd5.com and if programmed well, you can have a high power & torque engine with no smoke and in most cases no issues with MAF. I have a VGT, large PWR intercooler and 4bar MAP sensor (Standard is 2bar), but standard MAF. In theory the engine should be around 190BHP & 380Nm torque at peaks. As it's now Auto, I don't have any MAF cuts as it's rarely on high end revs.... (And as I get older I much prefer to potter the majority of the time.....) There is a member on here who had an upgraded tuning map on a stand
  12. The early ones did.. They added a hole in the plate that connects it to the LT230 to improve the flow out of the Overdrive... (I'm guessing it made the oil pumps' work a little easier and improved flow.)
  13. I think there are potentially two main reasons why a GKN drive could slip when not engaged... - The spring pressure is reduced over time through heating and cooling and therefore the "clutch" or brake mechanism doesn't clamp well and loses direct drive - The cone brake material wears so there is little or no friction. Of course there can be a combination of the two as well.... There is probably a need for the ATF to be in good order and in sufficient quality as I think it helps to condition the brake material and has some grip qualities.... (I recall reading somewhere
  14. After seeing @Anderzander fitted one I did the same a few years back... Great to have variable speeds, but the little extension that was soldered onto the slider to accommodate the triangular knob thing came apart on mine last year. It looks in Ralph's piccies that they now have one with a longer tab.... (Wonder if I'll ever get around to sorting that out....)
  15. Clutch slave bleed nipple is at the top ?
  16. Sounds like you need to try another head unit first to eliminate the obvious.....
  17. Certainly let me know when you are doing front doors....
  18. Great news Toby. Satidying when it’s all back together isn’t it.
  19. And now to harvest spares and repair again??
  20. Good news. Thanks to your replies, I hammered on a snug fitting 24mm Halfords Advanced socket. All went well and with a little more penetration fluid and some pushing and pulling on the breaker bar, it came off. Wondering if I would need another socket, I forced a bolt into the nut, clamped it tight in a vice and hammered it free. Socket looks servcable! Result! Thanks for all the replies and so glad I didn’t need to get to welding near the alloy wheel. Neil
  21. It’s a nice wide flat filter so will only ever partially block if it broke loose. (Even if squished in gears etc. )
  22. All nuts were tight while trying to remove as the truck was on the deck. I’ll root out my old imperial socket set and see if it has a suitable sacrificial socket... Just looked at my Irwin extractors. Way too small.... Any more suggestions ?
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