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FKD

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Everything posted by FKD

  1. Please don't put the welder near the V blocks. Its looks like they are a matched pair and would of cost £100+ when new and are worth about half if in good nick, someone in the know will give you you good money for them and buy yourself some G clamps
  2. Just for the record you don't need to take the head off to heli-coil. The taps I use don't require you to dill the old thread out and are spriral fluted so they force the swarf up out of the hole in ally anyway, cast just use a hoover. IMHO I woundnt take it to a garage, find yourself an engine shop/engineerig shop, it's real easy to botch a thread with a heli-coil, so leave it to the pro's, as for cost top's £20 anymore and they are lifting your leg... Cheers FKD
  3. These boys should be able to help clicky will send next day if you ask nice!
  4. Don't worry about it, that's not bad for an old machine! Remember backlash is taken up when applying the cut,(the most important thing is to make sure all your ways and headstock bearings are adjusted correctly) when on a cut: 1. touch the work with the tool and zero dial or make a note of the reading... 2. apply the cut eg .020 3. when cut is finished back of tool and return to start... 4. return dial to zero+.020 and add next cut eg.010 5. then either apply cut or zero dial if its adjustable and make a note of the cuts you have taken(you should do this anyway!) and then make your cut and so on... Cheers FKD
  5. I use these guys for our kingsland, they will do you stuff next day and at the right money... Clicky
  6. Couldn't agree more as long as they are from a known source and are HSS you will be fine... Same with bench grinder, please don't waste your money on a drill sharpener, unless your are willing to spend about 3 grand on a S/H one they are a waste of time, once you get the knack a quick twist of the wrist and your done! If you don't have a drill gauge,just put two plain nuts together and you got one, ok its 120deg but close enough and will show you if your angles and lands are even...
  7. Even if they didn't see it, as soon as it was put in acid they sure would then! and you would have some explaining to do! To be honest if you do your home work, you find that cold galving is sometimes the first choice eg. oil rigs,pipe lines and maritime vessels etc
  8. Not sure what you are getting at? All I know is from jobs Ive done in the past if you weld on/near/too etc to galv, the place where you have welded rusts at an alarming rate even if you treat said area...
  9. If only it was that easy! I'm afraid it still classed as "double dipping" the chassis would still need to be stripped of the old galv then shot blasted and acid dipped for the new galv to bond because the galv firm would not want to risk any violent reaction or contamination in the dip tank... The trouble is hot dip galv works at about 460 deg C and starts degrading or peeling in service at about 200 deg C so the only way to "double dip" is to dip one end straight after the other...eg if the part was to long to fit in the dip tank. Don't get me wrong I'm sure there will be a firm out there that will do it but be warned expect two things (1) it will look and be a right sh&ty mess and secondly don't expect it to last too long...
  10. Yeah been there, done that and had more than a few pints!
  11. Hi the fumes wont kill you but will give you zinc fever (really BAD flu type symptoms)and as far as I know zinc behaves the same as lead or any heavy metal ie. it stays in your body for ever! as for re-galvanizing, check with the firm who you plan to use as they might not want to do it or will charge you a small fortune, for some reason they just don't like doing it, we had to send some structural steel back in after modifying and it cost us triple!...
  12. 5 Amps should be fine, I wonder how many times you'll forget about that fuse...
  13. If you just need it as an anti-theft device, then use a standard isolator and bridge the terminals with a low amp fuse, then when turned off anything that needs to stay live to work/not need resetting ie radio, alarm,ecu etc will still work and if the ignition is operated while isolated the fuse will blow and vehicle cant be started...
  14. Hydraulic? or is that still a dirty word Yeah halving the electrical load but surely doubling the torque on the first motor? or am I missing the point?
  15. No such thing as too big, you can always turn a small job on a big machine but will struggle the other way round, enjoy your lathe! Try these guys they also trade on ebay I use the largest piston type (just remember you can't interchange with a dixon type) and can highly recommended. I'm guessing you'll need one for about 10" swing over the saddle... Clicky
  16. No such thing as a daft question just maybe daft answer...
  17. Sorry to ask another daft one! but have you changed the swirl ring and cap, I had a problem which turned out to be the swirl ring .my welding rep spotted it, I just never gave it a thought! When I next see him I'll ask about your model...
  18. Did a little checking on the model and I see its an inverter type which could mean bad news (lots of electronics etc to go wrong unlike solid state) but before you give up! Have you check the condition of the torch consumables? also have you tried to use it ie put the earth clamp on and strike an arc, I say this as some only work when the torch tip is in contact with the work piece others like mine need an 0.5-1mm air gap to work at there best... Hope this helps good luck!
  19. Dont own one of that make but usually on a plasma the only light other than the power supply is the low air warning light, could be the solenoid or what controls it or even a simple blockage I would start checking there...
  20. Any good welding supply house if its a "king" that torch is a known model but it wont be cheap just put one on a Cebora prof 50 £200 ish Daft question why do you think you need a new one ,mine was easy 2 ton of fork truck
  21. If its classed as light goods maybe, think the change over is in 2011? but if its a passenger carrying vehicle I dont know for sure any experts out there? I ask because I'm chopping off the cr*ppy landy ones and grafting my own on, so whats the cut off point? edit: %ugger you beat me too it but you have sort of answer my question...
  22. No super heros here, just a simple old school engineer, who still thinks CNC and CAD are 80's pop groups... Or thinking about it should that be old and simple
  23. Will make a call after bank holiday and see whats out out there but go much bigger and even budget stuff will be mega bucks, can you not turn the part down and sleeve to 140mm? Another thought will check the sizes of speedy sleeves and see if we can jack the shaft size to 140mm... Shame I'm in Yorkshire, we could have probably worked something out... Cheers FKD.
  24. As Ive said at least a dozen times before "make friends with your local suppliers" Not to teach you grannies out there but if you've read a few of my posts you will gather I'm trade (engineering) and so get good deal/prices but another/better way to get good deals etc is to show your local firm your project/what you are up too and you will be amazed how interested and willing to help they are and with it usually comes a deal... Ps watch out for cheap bolts, make sure they are at least 8.8,also if you buy from a "know source" they will have full traceability...
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