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Posts posted by PaulMc
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HI Paul
I will building the wiring loom and will be modding the switch as per the thread from Martin further up the page.
On that basis do I need a different switch? Or is the one you sent me suitable? I have a feeling I need the non latching Defender HFS switch (YUG000460LNF) and then carry on the mod to the switch as per your instructions on the LRO thread.
Sorry as always for the silly questions.
Regards
Rob
Hi Rob,
The latching switch I sold you isn't suitable for use with Martin's circuit, using the VWP latching relay.
You need the standard non-latching switch, modified internally (as shown here - http://www.lro.com/f...=678736#p678736) to make it a momentary 'Live' switch, rather than the momentary 'Earth' switch it is as standard.
There are no silly questions, I'm always happy to help
Regards,
Paul.
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Hi Paul
Sorry to bring this post back from the dead, but could you please tell me if Pin 2 on the switch is the Dash Illumination feed?
Regards
Rob
Hi Rob,
The latching, live-switching HFS switch I sold you, is wired as follows -
- Terminal 1 - Fused Live IN
- Terminal 2 - Dash Illumination
- Terminal 3 - Not Used
- Terminal 4 - Switched Live OUT (to Relay)
- Terminal 5 - Earth
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- Terminal 1 - Fused Live IN
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I would suggest that the Bulgin Buccaneer connector is ideal for your purpose -
Bulgin Buccaneer - http://www.bulgin.co...erStandard.html
* IP68 rating tested at 1.054kg/sq cm (15lb/sq in) 10m depth for 2 weeks and 9.84kg/sq cm (140lb/sq in) 100m depth for 12 hours
* Water and dust proof to IP68 when mated
* 2, 3, 4, 6, 7, 9, 12 and 25 pole
* 12A, 277V ac/dc 2 pole screw terminal, 3 pole screw terminal and crimp contacts
* 10A, 277V ac/dc 4 pole screw terminal
* 5A, 277V ac/dc 6 and 7 pole screw terminal
* 5A, 150V ac/dc 9 pole crimp contacts
* 5A, 50V ac/dc 12 pole crimp and solder contacts
* 1A, 50V ac/dc 25 pole crimp and solder contacts
* BNC versions 50Ω and 75Ω
* Plug or socket connection in each body style
* Compact design
* Diameter over coupling ring 38mm
* Sealing caps available to maintain IP68 rating of unmated connectors
* 7 body styles - flex cable, in-line flex cable, panel mount (front), panel mount (rear), PCB mount, bulkhead and flange mount
They're available from CPC, Farnell and RS.
I've had Bulgin Buccaneer 2-Way Connectors on my 110, used for the Rear Worklamps and Power Sockets, since I bought it new in 1989 -
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If you need a copy of RAVE -
I've zipped and uploaded a couple of editions of RAVE to Extabit (for some reason, Extabit wouldn't let me upload FreeRave_1.36.rar), the .zip files are here -
DII TD5 & V8 (Pre-Facelift), Range Rover P38, Freelander 1 (up to 2001), Defender 300Tdi, V8i and TD5 (1999-2001) - RAVE_2001.zip
DII TD5 & V8 (Post-Facelift), Freelander 1 (2001 onwards) - RAVE_2003.zip
You don't need a Premium Account to download them, you can do it for free, if you look down the page, under the PayPal logo, you'll find the link to the free download -
"I have no money, I want download for free"
The .zip archives, will unpack to a folder called RAVE_2001 and RAVE_2003 respectively, from which you can run RAVE, by double-clicking the RAVE.exe file.
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Thanks guys, but CutePDF doesn't work - Adobe just has an error if you try to open the resulting file. Looks like I'm stuck with printing off the pages I need.
I downloaded a tool called FreeRave (I tried attaching the .rar file to this message, but the forum doesn't allow them as attachments)
PM me your email address and I'll send it to you.
I got the tool from an Argentinian Land Rover Owners forum called 'LandRoverTec' - which doesn't seem to exist anymore.
Here's what the originator posted -
RAVE
Years ago the Rover group launched RAVE, the digital technical information system for its vehicles. RAVE is a series of CDs covering different lines and models providing basically
- Workshop Manuals
- Overhaul Manuals
- Electrical Troubleshooting Manuals
- PDI and Maintenance Manuals
- Repair Times Manuals
- Technical Brochures
- Special Service Tools Catalogs
RAVE runs on Windows (95, 98, NT, 2000, XT, Vista). The information is contained on encrypted PDF files using a security system. The security schema allows the display of the files only within certain dates, it does not allow to open the PDFs directly with the Acrobat reader, instead, it comes with a wrapper application (Rave.exe or TData.exe) that launches an old Acrobat reader 4.0 contained on every CD. If we would like to see the PDF files with our already installed Acrobat 7, 8, 9.. we'll fail, if we would like to see the files on a Mac we will also fail.
All the things we are mentioning here make the perfect scenario for a obsolescence case where soon or later the Rave.exe or the required Acrobat 4.0 will not work any longer...
The attached file (FreeRave_1.36.rar) when installed allows to convert the RAVE PDF files one by one or the whole CD with a mouse click.
So far the conversion works on RAVE LR (English & Spanish) Rave Rover, Rave MG and Rave Mini.
Instructions:
- Copy the whole content of any RAVE CD to a temp directory i.e. C:\RAVETEMP\
- Delete the directory Acrobat4 from C:\RAVETEMP\
- Extract the content of the file FreeRave_1.36.rar to C:\RAVETEMP\ replacing the erased directory.
- Start Rave normally from C:\RAVETEMP\Rave.exe or C:\RAVETEMP\TData.exe
- You'll see 2 padlock icons (if the Tool Bar does not show up press F9):
a) Padlock Blue: Available if current file has protection, allows to remove it and save.
b) Padlock Yellow: Only available when browsing the initial file (Welcome.pdf or Rave-rc.pdf) This action will process the whole RAVE structure. The process takes about 10 minutes every 300 Megs on a Intel core 2 duo 2Ghz, it cannot be stopped, it is cpu intensive, Acrobat's screen might not be refreshed correctly while running. The file C:\RAVETEMP\ProcFiles.log keeps record of the process
When the process is done the PDF files can be viewed with a regular Acrobat Reader even on MAC. Exe files and the Acrobat4 directory are not needed any longer and can be erased. The PDF files are converted to PDF version 1.3 that means they can be opened from Acrobat 4.0 +.
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- Workshop Manuals
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I think you can still say you supply / stock / service / specialise in Land Rovers, you just can't have Land Rover in your company title, like "Bucks Land Rover" for example unless you're a genuine dealer. I certainly don't want the little guy to disappear, but it seems fair enough (can't call you're corner shop "High St Tesco")
When I used to travel into London by train every morning, I used to see a scabby looking shop, trading as T.E.S.Co.
They appeared to get away with it for years.
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You could use an ordinary On/Off Carling Switch, wired to switch a changeover relay to earth, as is done in the 2002 -> Defender.
The relay is mounted on the rear door, behind the door-card.
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just wondering if there is any reason I can't fit a pre 300tdi one to the door. Are all the mount holes etc in the wrong place - are they easily interchangable?
I suspect that the main differences in the earlier type are the electrical connections, rather than the mountings.
This is the (factory fitted) one on my 1989 110 -
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I have a 200tdi 110 with a PDWA sensor on it. I have made a new loom for the car and I never saw anything but moulded bullets on the old loom but I need something to connect to the PDWA sensor (AAU1700).
Basically I need the connector for this: http://www.lrseries....URE-SWITCH.html
Does anyone know what this connector is? I called Craddocks and they said you can't buy it separately and it's part of the loom. Anyone know if this plug has a part number or where I can get one?
Cheers,
James
Those PDWA Switches were used on lots of British made cars, here's a connector I found at a Triumph specialist, I think it's the same type -
http://www.ldparts.c...a478a0577be22eb
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I'm using the Td5 type rear fog switch and relay on my 90. Does anyone know where I can source a connector plug for the relay from? Google tells me that the same relay is used on the Rover 600. I've crawled all over and under 3 of them in the scrapyard this morning but couldn't find it in any of them.
Alternatively could anyone look at their relay and tell me which colour wire goes to which pin?
The pins on the relay aren't numbered so the diagram isn't much help.
Black/Slate,- Switch.
Black,- Earth.
Red/Yellow,- Lamp and warning light.
Blue/Purple,- Supply.
Thanks for any replies.
The connector for the Rear Guard Fog Lamps ECU is a strange one.
It’s a Sumitomo connector (similar to, but not the same as, their HMDC Series), but it isn’t in any of their catalogues or on their website.
Although I haven't found a source for new connector shells, the terminals are (supposedly) available from Land Rover.
Land Rover list the Terminal as a Genuine Part – Part Number YPL10003, but this has been out of stock since early last year.
The Terminal/Tab size is 2.8mm so, at a push, you could use standard 2.8mm insulated female spade terminals.
If you fancy a trip to the Breakers Yard, in addition to the Fog Lamp ECU found on Rover 600s and late-model Rover Minis, the connector is also used as the Indicator Switch Connector on the following –
- MG TF
- Rover 25
- MG ZR
- Rover 45
- MG ZS
- Rover Mini
- MGF (->2001)
- MGF (2001->)
- Rover 100
- Rover 200
- Rover 400
- Discovery 1
- Discovery II
- Freelander 1
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- MG TF
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For those wondering where the ROW coolers are fitted, as already mentioned the TD5 ones are just a loop of pipe up alongside the engine on the drivers (RHD) side.
Wolfs have a large cooler right in front of the radiator, its supported between the A frame that supports the bonnet lock, so well above the gearbox height.
There used to be some piccies on here years ago of Wolf coolers.
T/cases get stupidly hot too, there was a recent thread on AULRO with some insane t/case temps recorded here in Oz, particuallry with an OD fitted.
The Wolf's R380 Oil Cooler uses the same style mount as early V8 Engine Oil Coolers.
Here's some parts pics -
Civvy R380 "Oil Cooler" for comparison -
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Right got a photo
[image]
Mine doesn't have the White bit inside tho?
The 'White bit' is the terminal retainer or secondary terminal lock.
The one I pictured has loose terminals, crimped onto the wire and inserted into the connector body.
There is a very tiny latch to stop the terminals pulling back out, but to relieve any strain on the terminal's latches, a secondary terminal lock is used.
The connector body on your horn doesn't have loose terminals, they're part of the assembly/moulding, so no need for a terminal lock.
Your connector body looks like Coding 'B' - I have MQS connectors that wiil mate with that.
PM me if you're interested.
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Cheers for the replies. It's not the same as the superseal one as the "locking" tab is different. It might be the mqs one though I can't see any pics in the above post that looks the same. I can't get a decent pic of it but it's oval shaped with two pins and a small casting on the top corner inside. If that makes sense, I'll try and get some more pics. Cheers mike
It's definately an MQS connector.
This is a cable mounted male MQS connector on a D4 heated washer jet, this will be the same as moulded into the horn's body.
Note the 'coding' keyways inside the connector's body -
This is the mating female half, with the corresponding 'coding' -
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Hi people, I'm after the name of the connector that plugs into the horn on a td5. I bought a nas connector as it looked similar but it wasn't. Any one know what it's called. Cheers mike
It's a Tyco/AMP 2-way Sealed MQS connector, similar to the ones used for side repeaters, see this - http://forums.lr4x4....showtopic=70955
There are variations in the 'coding' (keyways) on the female cable mounted connecters, but these aren't always implemented on the male half moulded into devices and sensors.
As I said in the thread above, I can supply these connectors, but they've gone up to £3.75 each, since I posted in that thread.
I have ones that are Coded 'A' and some others that are neutral coding.
If you can take a clear picture of the inside of the male connector, I will be able to tell if what I have will fit.
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I'm sure PaulMc will pick up one this one, he has lots of info on Defender connectors.
I never saw this thread back in December
02jcole asked a similar question, have a look at this thread - http://forums.lr4x4....showtopic=70621
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Nothing to do with me, but came up on my facebook feed
Wolf 90 for sale: http://www.mod-sales.com/auction/vehicle/related/40360/Land_Rover_Wolf_90_Soft_Top.htm
I would post a picture but the forum is objecting to the png format?!
One careful owner
http://www.mod-sales...90_Soft_Top.htm
To get at Withams pictures, you have to copy the image location, edit the file's location from the thumbnail directory to the images directory and edit out the commands to show the image in reduced size in a popup window.
The edited URL for the above image is -
http://www.mod-sales...20.jpeg.JPG.JPG
original URL - http://www.mod-sales.com/thumb/phpThumb.php?src=../images/product/1325592826land%20rover%20wolf%2090%20soft%20top%20pic3%20.jpeg.JPG.JPG&w=660&h=460&zc=1&fltr[]=wmi|../images/over_large.png|CBR|100 edited URL - http://www.mod-sales.com/images/product/1325592826land%20rover%20wolf%2090%20soft%20top%20pic3%20.jpeg.JPG.JPG
It also looks as though they try to disguise the image's file name with false file extensions
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Anyone got a diagram for the landy wiring, does it have two 40 amp relays, one each side? all coming off a timer?
This is the 2002 Circuit Diagram -
The complete Circuit Diagrams Manual for the 2002 Defender can be downloaded, here -
http://exerro.com/oldsites/2009/indigoprime.com/landrover/Defender%20MY2002%20Wiring%20Diagram.pdf
Also have a look at these threads -
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=72824
http://www.lro.com/forum3/viewtopic.php?f=44&t=60317
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To be honest I think the military snow cover OTT for the UK, but maybe in the depths of winter... ?? you never know!
As well as preventing snow blocking the intake, it also stops rainwater, dirt, leaf bits, etc..., from going down the intake and blocking the drain, causing water and muck to get into the Heater Matrix, which results in less heat output and steam and condensation on the inside of the windscreen.
To be honest I think the military snow cover OTT for the UK, but maybe in the depths of winter... ?? you never know!
Something like this
would probably stop most of the issues with snow build up.
That type of vent cover drastically reduces the area that air can drawn through, making the fan work harder and reducing its performance.
It's also more vulnerable to being blocked by snow, which can build-up in front of it.
I've had a Military Snow Cowl fitted on my 110 for over 15 years and I've never had any problems with a blocked or flooded heater, or reduced fan output.
I bought mine direct from Courtaulds Aerospace for the CAV100 (now called NP Aerospace and the CAV100 now better known as "Snatch") back in the mid-90's -
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Thanks Paul, funnily enough I brought a switch from you off ebay the other day, well on10th of November! At least I think it was you, the one with the modified latching part. Its a small world huh?
Cheers for the advice above I will look into contacting Martin. I have purchased all the bits and pieces now from VWP including the timer relay and heavy relay. So now its just a case of putting it all together.
Regards
Rob
That was me, a small world indeed. You appear to have upgraded from a 200Tdi to a 300Tdi
Is that switch going to be of any use to you?
I intended for it to be used to switch the 70A Relay directly, as not everyone likes to have functions taken over for them by Timers, BCUs, BeCMs, etc... - they like to have control
If you wanted to use the Live-switching circuit element of the Switch I sold you, with the non-latching action of YUG000460LNF, so that it can be used with the Timer Relay, then it's an easy job to swap the two halves of the switches.
I've pinched these pictures from Del (50) on the D2 Boys Club forum, which show what I'm talking about -
I'm sure he won't mind.
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Martin also posts on here as Dyna VT, PM him, I'm sure he'd offer some guidance.
The Polevolt Timer Relay you've linked to, as well as being expensive, is over-complicated with Configurable Time and Delay ON or OFF, that you don't need for a HFS.
The VWP Timer Relay is also dearer than the equivalent from AES -
http://www.autoelect...836/category/36
140270: 12V Timer Relay - £10.89 each
They also have a diagram for it, which corresponds with Martin's diagram -
On Martin's diagram, the GW (Green/White trace) wire is from an ignition-switched source and supplies power to Pins 3 and 4 on the Timer Relay, as well as the 'switching pulse' power to Pin 1 of the Switch.
Power for your Heated Mirrors should also be taken from Terminal 87 of the 70A Relay.
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RAVE_2001.zip covers the TD5 Defender from 1999 to 2001, details of where to download it, here -
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=72658&st=0&p=620907entry620907
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If you have to add the wiring yourself or just want to understand the wiring already there (if any), then you'll need the appropriate edition of RAVE.
RAVE contains - wiring diagrams, electrical library, workshop manuals, user handbooks, accessory fitting instructions, service bulletins, and more...
I've zipped and uploaded a couple of editions of RAVE to Extabit, the .zip files are here -
DII TD5 & V8 (Pre-Facelift), Range Rover P38, Freelander 1 (up to 2001), Defender 300Tdi, V8i and TD5 (1999-2001) - RAVE_2001.zip
DII TD5 & V8 (Post-Facelift), Freelander 1 (2001 onwards) - RAVE_2003.zip
You don't need a Premium Account to download them, you can do it for free, if you look down the page, under the PayPal logo, you'll find the link to the free download -
"I have no money, I want download for free"
The .zip archives, will unpack to a folder called RAVE_2001 and RAVE_2003 respectively, from which you can run RAVE, by double-clicking the RAVE.exe file.
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Who makes the original equipment for landrover ??
Leoni Wiring Systems UK - http://www.leoni.com....408.0.html?L=1
They're a German company with factories all over the world.
They bought the Lucas-RISTS business from TRW, who had previously bought-out the Lucas empire.
What are you after Chris?
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X-Eng Pedal Box Lock - Naming Competition!
in Tools and Fabrication
Posted
My suggestion for the pedal lock is -
X-Cell
as your pedals are locked-up secure and it excells at the job of doing it.
But this name doesn't really allow for expansion of the product range.
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