PaulMc
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Posts posted by PaulMc
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Hi,
Looking for a part number pleae. I have tried the parts catalogue and despite my best efforts failed. I have looked under binnacle, dash, trim and everything else I can think of but can't find any parts close to the part I am needing.
It is the RHS end of the dash that the heater controls box & the right hand side of the clock binnacle attaches to.
Thank you.
picture enclosed:
You're looking for the Binnacle Mount MTC2808, callout #1 in this diagram -
Around £45 in flimsy plastic from Land Rover -
http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php?xProd=87394
Or for around the same money in steel from Raptor Engineering -
http://www.raptor-engineering.co.uk/landrover-dash-binnacle-mount
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Thank you very much for your excellent and speedy reply paul
Do you know where I could possibly source the Sumitomo OE connector from as I would like to keep the connector standard to aid replacement of the switch in the future. I don't mind paying more to get the correct connector, but I suspect it may only be availble in large quantities!
James
Sorry, I don't know of anywhere selling them individually
If you could get hold a used one cut out of a loom, then new compatible terminals are available from a couple of sources.
If you know anyone with a Discovery II, then the Rear Fog Lamp Towing Cut Out Kit STC50181 uses the same connector, which is Land Rover part number - AFU3855 (not available as a spare part
)On the vehicle, an AFU3855 connector with a couple of loops of cable is removed from the rear loom and replaced with one with a relay which cuts the vehicles rear fog lights when a trailer with fog lights is plugged into the 12N connector.
The AFU3855 connector with the cable loops is thrown away.
STC50181 showing the AFU3855 connector -
I saw the kits at Billing a couple of years ago, Mailorder 4x4 (I think
) had stacks of them for around £7.00I wish I'd bought one at the time for my DII, as they're now nearly £40
Although, there is this one on eBay for a bit less -
Discovery 2 Fog Light Cut Off Switch Towing STC50181
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I'm in the process of installing TD5 gauges, a MUD console and generally tidying up the wiring of my 1997 defender 90. I'm having difficulty sourcing two connectors which I require, I've tried all the usual suspects that I buy electrical components from (VWP, polevolt, autosparks,Rs, etc) but I've had no luck. The two connectors that I require are:
2 x pink plugs used in the back of the TD5 speedo, they look similar to an ISO plug used for wiring in a car stereo but the TD5 one is 10 pin not like the standard 8 pin ISO plug and it has a yellow bar to lock the terminals in to the plug.
I also require a male and female connector for wiring in the master light switch as a previous owner has chopped the connectors off and soldered the wires together
The light switch and connector can be seen in my link below.James
The two 10-way ISO connectors can be bought here -
http://www.nexxia.co.uk/products.asp?section=CAR%20AUDIO&category=ISO%20Connectors
Connector shells and terminals are sold separately -
Male Accessory ISO Housing
An 10 way Accessory ISO block used for Accessory ISO connections such as CD Changers and displays. Requires M-55 terminals.
Part Code: M-53-1 (£2.50 inc VAT)
Car Radio connector ISO receptacles. ISO Receptacle that can be used with M-53-1 above. Wires can be crimpled into these receptacles and these clip into the housings.
Supplied as a pack of 10 - Part Code: M-55-1 (£2.50 inc VAT)
Supplied as a pack of 100 - Part Code: M-55 (£15.95 inc VAT)
The OE Land Rover light switch connector is made by Sumitomo -
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A similar 4-way connector can be bought here -
http://www.kojaycat.com/Motorcycle%20connector%204%20way.htm
4 Way Tang Less Connector (4W-CNA-NAT)
Natural coloured connector is supplied complete with male & female terminals . It has 8 terminals at 6.3mm
4W-CNA-NAT - £5.85 +VAT
BUT... The light switch connector doesn't need to be identical to the Land Rover (Sumitomo) one and could be replaced by any 4-way connector with 6.3mm terminals for a lot less than the one from KojayCat.
This one from Polevolt would do -
Ref: MC4KIT
Multiple connector kit 4 way
Supplied with 5 female and 5 male terminals.
Price each: (9 or fewer items) £0.80 (£0.96 Including VAT at 20%)
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i have a budget and i'm not mincing about repairing doors, this is getting a pro respray and i will do this once and one only!
i expect to pay around £1200 for the parts, the b pillars i have may go again once stripped and checked
need leads to new doors please
Have a look here - http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Ridgeway-4x4-Land-Rovers
I think that they're OEM, rather than Genuine, but they look OK for the money.
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Hi to all!
Firstly I would like to say that I'm new to this forum. I'm from Mauritius and I own a td5. I hope that you guys will share your experiences and help as we only have one local dealer and it comes damn expensive going through them for each single visit.
Now that's been said, i've bought my td5 ( yr 2002 model) and the speedometer and tachymeter are both inop. I've checked everything from electrical connections to abs sensors. I even went to the local dealer and it was confirmed that the whole instrument pack is faulty.
So my question is: is it possible to swap my instrument pack with another one from a series II but having a V8 engine? I've documented myself about the speedometer having it's signal from the SLABS and the tachymeter from the ECM for both diesel and petrol engines. Hence my question! Can anyone help here?
Regards
The Pipertachymeter spec.pdf
I don't know if it's possible, but I'm sure that someone on here might know.
Another place to sign-up to is the D2 Boys Club Forum - http://thed2boysclub.co.uk/forums/index.php
There's a lot of D2 knowledge and experience on there.
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Hi all i am looking for a wiring diagram for the electric window circuit on a defender td5 would any one have one please.
Phil
The complete wiring diagram (including electric windows) for the post-2002 Defender, can be downloaded here -
http://exerro.com/oldsites/2009/indigoprime.com/landrover/Defender%20MY2002%20Wiring%20Diagram.pdf
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There's an article in this months LRM (Sept. 2011) showing how they fitted Electric Windows to Lindsay Porter's post-2002 Defender, using Land Rover parts.
They used Carling switches to operate them but, apart from sourcing the switch connectors, the Land Rover switches are easier and, IMHO, look better.
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I see this is for sale again ebay linky !!!! guess someone bid took a look and walked!!! or didn't get it down the drive..
Jason.
Looks as though it didn't meet its reserve last time (26 bids - up to £5200
) - STUNNING LAND ROVER EXPEDITION UNIT CAMPER SHOWER FRIDG.
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i know, i've done it!
cut two holes and file out the middles to give an oblong shape.
I which case, I tip my hat to you
I helped my mate fit a DiscoParts kit to his TD5 DII a few years ago. We drilled several small holes, joined them up and opened it out with a file.
I've not had to fit cruise control to my DII, as it's a V8, which has it factory fitted
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for cutting the hole in the side of the steering wheel for the CC control unit to sit in.
The proper 'Set/Resume' switch requires a specific shaped hole, not a 32/34mm round hole
See the article I linked to earlier - http://www.discovery2.co.uk/cruise_install.html
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you'll need a 32 /34mm hole saw
What do you need that for???
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Can anyone tell me if its a simple job to fit cruise control to my discovery 2 please.
Yes, if it has a TD5 engine.
See here - http://www.discovery2.co.uk/cruise_install.html
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I've used this stuff for bodging sticking stuff to other stuff -
http://www.screwfix.com/p/evo-stik-sticks-like-sh-t-clear-290ml/57252
it does what it says on the tin
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The easiest place to pickup the main beam feed for spot/driving lamps, especially if you're using an isolating switch, is from the flash/dip column switch (stalk) on the UW wire (Blue with a White trace).
Or, at the fuse box, where the UW wire is split into left and right main beam circuits.
The additional load of a relay coil on this circuit will make no perceivable difference to the brightness of the main beams.
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I can't find the original posting on here but is THIS same trailer that was for sale on ebay a few weeks ago with the doggy chassis? looks the same but with the addition of a bit of caravan interior and some stickers. Given the previous photos would hardly say it was "superb expedition unit"
Jason.
It certainly looks like the same trailer -
Before -
After -
667oSw~~_3.JPG)
LR4x4 thread here - http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=68788
Original eBay listing here - http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Land-Rover-Series-II-Trailer-/150613994057?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item23114b2a49
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Picture 7 was taken at the Ford across the River Darent at Eynsford, which is not too far from me
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I forgot to add that the Yellow Wire Seal - 3B0 972 742 B - is for 0.35mm2 cable.
There is also a Green Wire Seal - 3B0 972 742 C - for 0.5-0.75mm2 cable.
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If you go for Genuine Land Rover Heated Seats, then the mating connectors for the vehicle side can be sourced from a BMW or VAG Dealer (I can give you the details if you need them)
In response to a PM from peter2td5, here's the info I have on BMW/VAG part numbers for these connectors -
The female connector on the wire tail on a Genuine Land Rover Heated Seat is an AMP/Tyco (now TE Connectivity) 2-way Sealed MQS (Micro Quadlok System) connector -
The mating male half on the vehicle loom can be sourced from a BMW or a VAG dealer, under various part numbers and are supplied as separate components.
From BMW -
Male terminal, BMW part number - 61 13 8 366 269
Wire seal, BMW part number - 61 13 8 353 706
'Repair Wire' (male terminal to suit 0.75mm2 and wire seal, pre-crimped to a length of wire), BMW part number - 61 13 0 006 666
I've not yet found a part number for the connector shell from BMW, only a 'Harness Repair Kit', which is a complete male connector on a short harness, BMW part number - 83 30 0 402 344
It's a Blue version of the Male MQS Connector, but it will mate to the Black female connector, as shown in this picture from a BMW Motorcycle forum -
From VAG -
Although MQS connectors are used on VAG vehicles, the sealed type only seem to be used as Sensor/Device connectors and, as such, only the female MQS Connector appears to be available as a spare.
I've only managed to tracked down part numbers for the Female Connector Shell, Female Terminals, Wire Seals, Female and Male 'Repair Wires'
Male 'Repair Wire', VAG part number - 000 979 012 - a short length of 0.5mm2 wire with a terminal crimped at either end
Wire Seal, VAG part number - 3B0 972 742 B
Another source for the Male Connector Shell is to buy a Discovery 4 Heated Washer Jet, part number - LR018834
Dismantle the connector and re-use it with new terminals/seals from BMW/VAG
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the wiring diagramm shows they should be there, but there not. Just thought someone may have had same problem and cut into loom to make connectors
The wiring diagrams show all options available, but not necessarily fitted to all vehicles.
Microcat shows around 150 part numbers for Defender Main Harnesses, the vast majority of which are for VIN XA (introduction of TD5) onwards.
There appears to be a harness for every permutation of options available for every market
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Has anyone fitted heated seats to a TD5
Wiring diagram shows that there should be connectors in the loom and under seats but can't find them
any ideas?
If it's wired for them, you can't miss the connectors.
This is where the connector (C1403) is mounted under the driver's seat -
This picture is for the 2007 Defender (same as the 2002, but the picture is a little clearer) -
Even if you don't already have the wiring for them, they should be fairly easy to wire up.
They are wired without relays (the switches switch them directly) but, if I was installing them, I would fit relays.
If you go for Genuine Land Rover Heated Seats, then the mating connectors for the vehicle side can be sourced from a BMW or VAG Dealer (I can give you the details if you need them).
If you fit an aftermarket kit, such as the Waeco Kit - http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260722201375&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT - then the connectors are not an issue.
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so do you have to remove the under seat storage to get this installed ?
There are different seat bases listed for with and without the tool locker.
If retro-fitting a second tank then, yes, you would have to remove the tool locker from the seat base.
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On a 110, the additional fuel tank goes under the driver's seat.
This is the version for the Hardtop/Pickup -
The Hardtop/Pickup version uses the external filler from a Series Civilian 88", callout #18 here -
The Station Wagon/Double Cab tank is similar to a Series Military RH Tank, which is filled by removing the driver's seat cushion and slide-out cover -
All images are from yet another Russian online version of Microcat - http://lrcat.com/ - which also has part numbers.
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I've just tried searching the RS website for some of the TE Part Numbers and had no hits.
Searching on Farnell's website, I had hits with the first two numbers I tried - 925590-1 and 925596-1
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Thanks for the replies.
Both Polevolt and VWP are pretty expensive on carriage for small orders so I was hoping to get them from Farnell or RS since I have accounts with them so I won't pay extra for carriage.
Nick.
There are 86 different TE Part Numbers for Junior Time Female terminals, the differences are -
Contact Base MaterialContact Plating, Mating Area, MaterialWire Range (mm2[AWG])Packaging Method (Loose Piece / Strip)This should take you to the search results page for those 86 terminals -
Timer Contacts Product Feature Selector
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) had stacks of them for around £7.00
The light switch and connector can be seen in my link below.
Inverting a sankey hitch
in Military Forum
Posted
"therealboss" on thed2boysclub forum has done something smilar, using a 'Dixon-Bate style'
adjustable coupling -
http://thed2boysclub.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=4023
Dixon Bate sell a two-hole slider -
Product Number: 68248
http://www.dixonbate.co.uk/spares/product.asp?PartNo=68248
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