PaulMc
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Posts posted by PaulMc
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anyone got any pictures so i can compare 100x50 and 80x40?
Have found this place - Austen Knapman
Any other recommendations?
I've used Parker Steel before, they're based in Canterbury and they hold stock of all standard sections.
You have to buy a full length (usually 7.5m), but they will cut it to length for you and their delivery charge is quite reasonable.
You have to register to be able to see prices, but once registered you can order online, including specifying cuts, finishes, etc...
I've done a couple of screen-caps from their website, first one shows RHS available, second one shows prices for the size/thickness suitable for rock sliders -
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You're not far from me aren't you? (I'm in Horton Kirby)
Have you tried the Corus Steel Distribution Centre at Farningham Road Railway Station?
I don't know if they'll deal directly with the public, but they're local - it's worth asking.
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Thanks Paul. From your microcat, what is the part number and description of number 9 in the diagram?
It's the Fuel Tank Harness, here's the details from Microcat -
You'll need AMR1494
The Screen-Caps are from June 2010 Microcat, so the prices should be fairly current (no pun intended
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Im looking for a chassis harness for my 110. Would this fit a TD5? Its advertised as TD5 but when you put the part number into britcar or whatever, it shows it as a 300 TDi loom..
Britcar are wrong, John Craddock are right -
Good price from JC
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Hello,
Does anyone have the part numbers for the switches on the console - anyone know what otehr functions fill the blank holes?
I just want on/off buttons to wire up to different light isolation switches.
Cheers
Mav
Have a look here - http://www.reedx.net/landrover/mods/2002dash/part5/index.htm
and here - http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=56046
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On the TD5 don't the earths go back to a common earth point on the bulkhead via the wing harnesses ?
Mo
Mo is correct
On the TD5, all the front lamp earths go back to a single earth header, mounted on a bolt on the bulkhead -
Everything else in the engine bay (except the starter motor) and all of the earth headers in the dash and behind the instruments also go back to this point -
C0550's mounting bolt is also used to earth the ABS Modulator (on it's own earth cable) via ring terminal C0362 -
I would run an additional earth cable (of at least 16mm2) from C0550/C0362's mounting bolt, directly back to the battery earth terminal.
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I stand by what I said in an earlier post.
The flowery language used in their advert is that of a snake oil salesman.
Simon's investigations would seem to confirm that they are overselling their product's capabilities.
Some on here accused me of being harsh on the seller, but I'm naturally cynical, especially where eBay sellers are concerned.
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A spacer either side would be preferable to a pack of washers, but a crush tube is still required - whichever you use. You would still have weak points with a spacer, but not as many as using washers. Considering the reduced strength of the TD5 chassis against the earlier models - strengthening it with plate would be a wiser choice in my opinion.
Les.
I'm not too familiar with all the changes to the TD5 chassis (except for the 'tinfoil' rear crossmember with it's thread inserts)
The page from the Military Parts Book is for 1986/87 Military models, external comparison of which, with my 1989 110's chassis revealed no great differences.
I have seen a Military chassis cut open and, although the JATE Ring holes are not tubed, the chassis does have a stiffening scroll (sort of 'S') welded between the vertical inside faces of the chassis at this point.
The spacing washers are used at the rear of the vehicle - one washer per side for each JATE Ring, to make up for the difference in chassis width between the front and the rear of the chassis rails (the front has the thickness of the jacking point, welded to each side of the chassis rail), if you need more washers than this, then your not using proper JATE Rings - RRC3237
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PaulMc has this on his website, an extract from the military 110 parts book.
http://defender110.nightmail.ru/Extracts/JATE%20Rings.jpg
it mentions spacers but doesn't show them.
It does - Spacer WC110061L QTY 4
Which are M10 Form C Washers - inside diameter M10, outside diameter 24mm, thickness 2mm
The link that you've given to my 'website' may cause problems for some
My AVS flags it up as an 'Attack Site' - although, I've never had any problems with it
(it was fine when I originally set it up, I think it may have changed hands
)Anyway, here's a clickable thumb of the page extract (hosted on PhotoBucket
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Using a Voltage Sensitive Switch to control the X-Eng (or any other H/D) relay is a much better idea.
The Land Rover part (PRC4427) is readily available -
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They can be picked up cheap on eBay (they're silly-money new
)A SmartCom Relay (12S towing electrics) from TowSure will also do the same job.
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Cheers Ralph, I'll contact them to see if they actually have them in stock.
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Any luck finding an RQB000540 ???
I've been trying to get one since June 2009 and nobody has them or can get them.
I was in my local Main Dealers today and they say that they've been trying to get them since last year and have been given a date that stock is expected into Land Rover's warehouse of sometime in July (2010).
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Got there at 09:00, went round a couple of times, bought a few choice bits & pieces, left for home at 10:30
There didn't seem to be as many sellers there as there have been in the past
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I'll be there.
Leaving in 20 mins.
Early bird, etc...
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I'll take one or two off you James, only 4997 to get shot of then
Mo
That's the problem exactly
While there is undoubtedly a demand for these (and other) connectors, it's probably only for a few dozens a year, which would tail-off as vehicles got older and fewer, leaving you sat on a pile of several thousand unsold connectors.
I've chased up several sources and if the minimum quantities involved were sensible numbers, then I would have already started selling some of the more useful connectors and terminals.
I have managed to source a small(ish) quantity of -
Genuine AMP/Tyco 070 Terminals
(Switch Multilock Connectors - Defender 2002->, Discovery II, Freelander 1, Rover Cars)
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Sumitomo 090 Terminals*
(Hazard Warning Light Switch Connector, Splice Connectors, 14-Way HD Series)
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Yazaki/Sumitomo Tangless .250" Brass Terminals*
(Various Connectors - Discovery II/ Freelander 1 Main Lighting Switch, Headlamp Levelling Switch, Earth Headers, Fuse Box Power Connectors)
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* = KET (Korea Electric Terminal) equivalents
I'm going to be putting them on eBay as a 'Buy it Now' (when I get a round tuit
)I'm not trying to make a living out of selling them, I originally bought them for myself, but have far too many for my needs, so will use eBay to try and recoup some of what they cost me.
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Oooh, you haven't got any more of those Sumomito connector halves have you?
Sorry James, that was the only one.
I picked-up a brand-new, still in the bag, Freelander 1 Main Harness which I've dismantled for the connectors.
Unfortunately, there's only one of those 14-way Sumitomo connectors in the whole loom
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Nice job Paul, the freelander bit you gave me is doing well, I still can't get the speedo damping circuit light the low fuel warning though, so I've connected the senders low level wire direct to the warning light as it was with the original gauges, I thinking the damping circuit within the speedo is busted, but don't know of a way to prove if it works or not.
I don't know how 'intelligent' the TD5 Defender instrument pod is and whether it's functions can be tested with Testbook.
The easist way to test it would be to swap it with a known good one (got any TD5's at work
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Shameless Plug
For one of my eBay listings -
TD5 Instrument Dash Harness + NEW 14-Way Connector
I thought that someone on here might be interested.
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Because I was too stupid to save the link when I saw it posted before and now I can't find it
Pretty please
Mo
The Black one -
http://shop.dingocroft.co.uk/acatalog/Electrical_Miscellany.html#aZZPLUG01
Connector Kit for Defender Switches Ref: ZZPLUG01
Application: Defender 2001 to 2006 with the facelift dash.
Description: Connector kit for auxillary switches on centre dash.
Price: £4.15 (£4.88 Including VAT at 17.5%)
The White one -
http://www.expeditionexchange.com/cart/product.php?productid=19291&cat=288&page=1
Connector Kit For Disco2 Cruise Control Switch
Details
SKU CKD2
Price: $4.00
The Hazard Warning Light Switch Connector -
http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/090_Connectors/090_connectors.html
10 Position 090 HM Connector
Fits wires from .5mm - 1.25mm (22 - 16 AWG).
With complete set of terminals.
10P090-HM $6.95 ea
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Look out Londoners - That Slimy C*** Livingstone is trying to get his foot back in the door
Ken Livingstone launches London mayoral comeback bid
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James, have you considered what could happen in a rear-end shunt?
The long lengths of steel tube are in just the right place to be punched through the lower bulkhead, the seats and their occupants
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Neill,
Have a look at this thread, for more info on the Aircon Connector -
http://www.lro.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=47159
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I didn't know Dixon-Bate was part of the Bradley Group, just looked at the contact details for both & they are identical.
That's interesting news...
http://www.bradleydoublelock.co.uk/article.php?article_id=130
"In August of 2009 Bradleys acquired the trading name and towing products portfolio of Dixon Bate Ltd. The addition of the Dixon Bate products to the existing Bradley products creates a unique range of quality British made towing products to meet the needs of the towing industry.The products on offer vary from the traditional Bradley towball and pin the E40TC, the renowned Dixon Bate 3500kg Universal coupling and their associated pin only variants, to the heavy duty 4 bolt fixing versions, versions for use with friction based stabilsers, shocklinks and the Dixon bate adjustable height couplings, the Bradley Autojaw, the Military towing pintles and many products approved for original equipment use by manufacturers such as Landrover.Contact the sales team at Bradleys on 01274 516760 for further info."The point they make about Dixon-Bate being Original Equipment suppliers to Land Rover, should help Carlos's case with the Spanish Authorities.
The NATO Pintle is in the Civilian Parts Book as a Towing Option, Land Rover Part No. - NRC2051
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As posted above - M10 x 1
Confirmed by SMP (Intermotor) website - http://partfinder.smpeurope.com/
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Yep, I know it's a latching switch. As for the rest, I'll just nod & smile & pretend I understand
Am I correct in assuming that I will need 2 connectors for 2 switches(one for spots, one for rear worklamp)?
Yes, you'll need 2 connectors, one for each switch.
If you wire your spot lights as per the diagram above, the switch will illuminate with the rest of your switches when you turn on your sidelights and the Orange tell-tale LED on the switch will illuminate when you switch on your spot lights with main beam.
The only difference for a work lamp, is that you don't need to take the feed for terminal 86 on the relay from the main beam.
You should take this from a permanent live if you want to use your work light with the engine turned off, or from an ignition switched live if you want to use your work light only with the engine switched on.
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Rockslider project
in Tools and Fabrication
Posted
Another thing - is your 110 a Station Wagon or a Hardtop/Truck Cab?
The reason I ask is because most Rock Sliders are made for Station Wagons and they mount in three places -
Bulkhead - Outrigger - Body Crossmember
Hardtops/Truck Cabs dont have the rear-most crossmember, so you have to make up a crossmember to mount across the chassis to provide a rear mounting.
I've got a set of Mantec Sliders for my Hardtop, but I've got Jerrycan Lockers in the side, which means modifying the sliders by notching them or spacing them down to miss the bottoms of the Jerrycan Doors.
The Jerrycan Lockers sit on a crossmember that mounts in the same place as the Station Wagon crossmember, but it's different, so the Mantec Sliders won't fit directly to it - more modifying
I haven't got around to fitting them yet and, with the amount of modification required, I'm considering making my own from scratch.
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