PaulMc

The 2-way Posilock connector ADU8885 as used on VDO (and TD5) gauge illumination, is 10mm between terminals - .

You can also email me at enquiries@landrover-connectors.co.uk .

Lockdown Camper Van Build - not even slightly LR, but potentially useful bits! https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/109170-lockdown-camper-van-build-not-even-slightly-lr-but-potentially-useful-bits/

I have these connectors in male and female. PM me on here.

Both of the above links are to the same seller. When they have items out of stock, they put the price on ebay up to a silly amount, in order to keep their listings place in the search results. I still have a few of those Rists E Series connectors in stock. However, I don't have the blanking pins.

I can supply terminals and seals for these connectors - PM me.

That Discovery 2 switch won't work for what you want it to do. The majority of Discovery 2 switches (including YUE100600 (pre-facelift) and YUE000220PUY (facelift)) switch a BCU signal wire to earth. The rear wash/wipe functions are then initiated by the BCU (Body Control Unit). As an aside, switch part numbers that have a PUY suffix, are Black. Switch part numbers that have no suffix, or a LNF suffix, are Ash Grey, which is the correct colour for pre-facelift Discovery 2 and Defenders from 2002 to 2016. It's easy to make the standard Defender rear washer switch (YUE000070LNF) also operate the rear wiper - however, the wiper (and washer) will only operate for as long as you hold the button down. Another option would be to add additional switch carriers. A member on the Defender2 forum (mcma1) has had some injection moulded, in 1-way, 2-way, and 3-way - https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic49880.html The ideal place to fit them, is below the stereo -

There's no relay in the rear wiper circuit. Your problem sounds like the rear wiper motor park switch is stuck on.

3waycomponents sell them on ebay, here - High Quality Superseal Mounting Panel Clip For Use With AMP Superseal 1.5 Series

It clips into the back of the connector to hold the wire seals in place.

I have the genuine Lucas-Rists terminals - but, they're expensive - £1.50 each + Postage. I’ve managed to source some terminals which are almost identical – but, they require a little ‘tweaking’ to make them fit the housings. These are a much more reasonable £0.25 each They are slightly wider in section, than the originals. They can be made to fit by rubbing them down a bit on some fine abrasive, and snipping the left side and bending out a retaining tang. The contacts can also be re-shaped with fine-nosed jeweller’s pliers, to make them more like the originals. Some pictures comparing an original terminal (crimped to green wire), with the similar terminal - .

Ash Grey on softdash RR, 300Tdi D1, pre-facelift D2 Black on facelift D2 (from 2003 onwards)

Defenders from 2002 onwards, have used 1.5mm² for the HRW.

1985 will be the SAE type moulded rubber bullets, you can get pigtail connectors on ebay.

Pete's link is to the seller I use when I need a Lucas wiper motor connector 👍

3waycomponents have the Lucas 5-way switch connectors - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lucas-Rists-5-Way-3mm-Moulding-Wiring-Connector-Kit-To-Fit-Lucas-183SA-Switch/133252214758 I've got the hazard switch connectors - £9.95 + £1.55 for UK 1st class P&P.

I've just checked the wiring diagrams - Discovery-2 TD5 and V8 use 3.0mm2 1999MY Defender TD5 uses 3.0mm2 2002MY Defender TD5 uses 4.0mm2

I'm pretty sure that the factory wiring is 4.0mm2

It's a BMW connector, I recently posted details, here - https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/108548-td5-fuel-pump-connector/

Here's the thread that I posted in - https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/80056-roof-bar-light-wiring-advice-needed/

They're available from numerous places, usually in 100's. I have them in a couple of sizes @ £0.10 each. However, you can make them from a 6.3mm terminal, by snipping off the receptacle and insulation crimp. I'm pretty sure that I posted it on here once before. When I find it, I'll post a link to it.

The first diagram is correct for YUG000540LNF YUG000540LNF switches the earth of the relay (terminal 85) from pin 1, to earth on pin 4 The switch's night-time illumination (pin 2) also earths through pin 4 The tell-tale is illuminated through pin 5, to earth on pin 4 Pin 5 is only live, when the auxiliary lamps are powered from terminal 87 of the relay. Your diagram wouldn't work, for a number of reasons. .

It's an FCI (now Delphi/Aptiva) SICMA 1.5mm Mini-Sealed connector, which comes apart like this - The terminals are inserted on their side and are retained by the 'fingers' in the housing, locating into the recess on the terminal - .

I don't sell the connector housing, but looking on the web, I found this German site that's listing them for just over 4 Euros - https://www.skandix.de/en/spare-parts/accessories/din-assembly-parts/plugs/plug-housing-blade-terminal-sleeve-for-fog-light/1052953/ So, I would expect a similar (equivalent) price from a UK Volvo dealer or specialist. I can supply terminals and wire seals, if you need them. .

The 'Thor' V8 (D2 and late RR P38) uses similar Bosch Jetronic connectors (with detail differences and different keyways) The V8 injector connectors are YPC114900 (BMW 12521427615), and look like this - The Volvo connector looks like this - Aside from the differences in the body styles (position of boot retainer, bottom of connector and the height of the release clip), they are essentially the same connector. The only thing stopping you using V8 connectors on your fog lamps, is the keying along the top of the connector. The injector connector is Code I The Volvo connector is Code II If you trimmed-off the keyway lugs on your fog lamp's male connector, the injector connector should connect to it. .