PaulMc
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Posts posted by PaulMc
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Take it somewhere else for it's MOT.
The GVW of a standard 110 is 3050kg, so strictly speaking it is class 7. However, my 1989 110 Hardtop has always been tested as class 4.
The place that I have it MOT'd is capable of testing up to class 7 and once, while I was waiting, I was reading their poster on vehicle classes, I noticed the weights and asked the tester if he was testing it in the right class, he said that they always tested 110s as class 4, the only Land Rovers they tested as class 7 were 130s.
Paul
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Why have you attached a lifting eye to the top of your wing Paul? it'll rip the wing off
Les.
I knew I should have photo-shop'ed it out of the picture
Some time ago, someone wanted to know what NRC9011 looked like, and on top of my wing was a convenient place to take some pictures of it.
These are the only close-up pictures I have that show how I've rivetted my chequerplate.
Paul.
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I've used closed-end (solid) normal domed-head Aluminium Rivets and counter-bored them into the 5-bar pattern with a 10mm 'Bullet' drill, like this -
Black & Decker Piranha Hi-Tech Bullet Drill Bit For Metal 10mm x 133mm X51108
The end result looks like this -
Paul.
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Granted it adds a bit, but then carrying those items as spares (should you want to) also adds weight and takes up space. Tucked under a trailer the CoG is low and they're using wasted space whilst being protected from the elements.
Granted, if you're carrying spares, the trailer's axle is an excellent place to carry a spare diff. Although, I still wouldn't have half-shafts in the axle - I was thinking that the effort required to turn the diff. would add to the trailer's rolling resistance, increasing fuel consumption. It could also put wear on your spare crown wheel and pinion gears, but I suppose you could always fit free-wheeling hubs to the trailer
Easy enough to pull the shafts and replace the diff with a blanking plate if you don't need them.That's what I was suggesting
I see little point in fabricating a replacement tube to bolt Rover stub axles to, after all using an axle casing it will have exactly the same ground clearance as the tow vehicle. They're also reasonably light when empty.Yeah, the point of that puzzled me as well
Paul.
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If you want the same tyres and wheels, go the whole hog and share wheel bearings, brakes and even carry a spare diff & half shafts by using a 90 or RR/Disco back axle.
Having half-shafts and a diff. in it would add a lot of weight and drag to the trailer.
Use a 90/RR/Disco back axle without a diff. or half-shafts and plate over the diff. hole.
If you use decent drive flanges and hub caps to seal the hubs/axle tube, these could be used as spares for the towing vehicle.
Paul.
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When I bought my 110 TD in 1989, power assisted steering was still an extra-cost option.
It didn't become standard equipment until the 1990 Model Year.
Paul.
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Very good pictures!
tris
I pinched 'em from VWP and eBay
Paul.
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If you go on fleabay and look at the people that sell winch's they have shops and sell the switches seperate for a few quid, Dont know how to do links yet
tris
Just looked, Its " Recovery solutions" and its £6.
The only Battery Switch they sell is this -
It's only rated at 100A. This type of Battery Switch isn't really up to the current drawn by Land Rovers or Winches.
These Durite ones that Vehicle Wiring Products sell -
are both rated at 250A @ 24V, 2500A for 5 secs - which is more than man-enough.
A cheaper version of the one with the removable key can be had on eBay -
** HEAVY DUTY BATTERY ISOLATOR SWITCH & METAL KEY**
But personally, I'd stick with the Durite ones, they're a known and quality brand.
Paul.
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I'm guessing that the retards responsible for this catalogue of shoddy repairs aren't Land Rover Main Dealers or Independent Specialists?
This looks like the handiwork of the knuckle-dragging half-wits found at the typical crash repair "specialists" favoured by insurance companies.
Go back with your snagging list and demand that they all be rectified to your satisfaction, give them one chance only.
Paul.
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Are you sat down even with a bit of discount from my parts supplier it was still 94quid inc vat
I admit I could have gone the resistor route, but this way I know the temp gauge will give me a good reading at all temps.
I spotted this on eBay this morning, too late for you Ralph, but it might be useful to someone else -
WIRING LOOM~HARNESS~DEFENDER TD5~CLOCK~SPEEDO~GAUGES
Only £12.00
+ £2.95 p&pDon't all rush at once
Paul.
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Ralph,
I'll stick it in the post, first thing on Monday.
I'll leave about 6" of cable on the back of it - is that enough?
Paul.
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Ralph,
The connector you have is the Male half (denoted by the gender of it's terminals)
It's a Sumitomo HD Series 14-way connector, Pt. No. M(6098-0254)
The Female half you're looking for is Pt. No. F(6098-0253)
and the terminals (receptacles) to fit are -
F(8240-4412) for 0.3mm2 cable
and F(8240-4422) for 0.5 - 1.25 mm2 cable
Here's a link to the Sumitomo HD Series Connector Catalogue - http://www.sws.co.jp/en/product/connector/pdf/nwp_hd.pdf
I picked-up a complete 2001 > Freelander loom (to cannibalise) at one of the shows last year and it's got the connector you're looking for on it -
You're more than welcome to it.
Paul.
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Exhaust clamps go down as small as 32mm (1¼" in the old money) e.g. - EXHAUST CLAMP - U BOLT
You could also try - RS Components, Boat Chandlers, Trailer Parts and TV Aerial Installers.
Paul.
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Jim/Ralph,
To get rid of the annoying 'Dealer Technical Reference Notice' nonsense, you need to run Regedit and delete the following keys under -
HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE
LegalNoticeCaptionandLegalNoticeTextPaul.
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Not a kind word to say about them on ORRP
Paul.
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Well got my 350 amp connectors now and one question if I may.
I got three connectors - one for (soon to be new) battery box, one for jump leads and the other one was to provide easy access for my tyre compressor.
However the compressor has nice wee 50 amp cables that will never in a month of Sundays crinp up into the Anderson poles. Am I better trying to see if I can get a pair of +ve and -ve screw poles that I can fit to front of battery box and then fit rings to the compressor cables?
Or is there a better way of doing this?
For my portable compressor, I'm intending to put 50 amp Anderson connectors at the front and rear, as well as on the seat box on my 110. This is in addition to the 350 amp connectors I have for for slave starting.
By doing it this way, instead of just 'piggy-backing' off of the slave sockets, the 50 amp connectors can be fused outlets with a separate isolator switch.
If you did it this way you could use one of these 50 amp connectors to power a distribution board of DIN/Cigarette Lighter Sockets, or what ever you use for camping.
You can make external Anderson connectors reasonbly weatherproof using the dust covers at the front end and the waterproof boot at the back (cable entry) end.
This eBay shop sells genuine Anderson connectors, boots and dust covers - http://stores.ebay.co.uk/GET-CONNECTED-PLUGS
If you want water proof connectors (to IP68), I use Bulgin Buccaneer connectors, available from RS Components, the ones I'm using are 2-way and are rated for 10 amps (at 250v), so are more than man enough for most accessories. They're also available in 3, 4, 6, 7, 9, 12 and 25-way, but at a lower current rating.
Paul.
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I've got a rear reverse/side light out. Its not the bulb as thats fine and I tried my spare one too. I think it could be a wiring problem but I don't see why it would suddenly go. Is it on a seperate fuse? Anyother ideas?
Cheers.
Check the fuse(s) first, especially if they're the glass type - make sure they haven't blown, also make sure the fuse holders aren't green and corroded and are holding the fuse(s) tightly at both ends.
If I read your question correctly, you have two lights out? if they're both on the same side, check the grouped earths in the bullet connectors behind the inside rear lamp cover for that side.
While you're in there, have a look at the supply bullet connectors and check that they're clean and tight, Vaseline helps to keep them making a good connection.
If the problem is on the N/S - also check the supply bullets behind the O/S lamp cover. The rear harness is routed through the O/S chassis member, up to behind the O/S rear lamp cover where there's a junction with bullet connectors to a short harness across the rear crossmember up into the N/S rear lamp cover.
I had problem a couple of years ago with my Range Rover, I had no O/S tail-light. I changed the bulb - still no light, I checked the bulbs - they were both fine, I used a voltmeter and confirmed 12v at the bulb holder - but still I couldn't get a known working bulb to light
I traced the harness back to the fusebox and discovered that the multiplug that connects the rear harness to the main harness behind the A-Pillar trim was all green and cruddy. I cleaned and smeared the connector pins/sockets with Vaseline and had no more problems.
So although I was getting 12v at the bulb holder, the corroded connection wasn't allowing enough current to lihgt a bulb.
Paul.
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Oh my God! I am starting to regret starting this project...
The push push switches I bought have a picture of a left facing lamp with 5 straight bars of light coming away from it, with the number "2" printed inside the light. There is a light in the switch which I presume comes on when in operation.
I thought I had bought front aux light switches (so did the land rover dealership selling them to me!) - is that what I have here? Am I going to need a blumin' ECU just to make this work??
From your description, these sound like the Front Fog Lamp switch, Part No. YUG000540LNF
The pin-outs for these front Fog Lamp switches aren't in the Defender 2002 RAVE wiring diagram, the best I've found is the Defender Auxiliary Wiring Kit (STC53208) instructions, which you can get from the - Land Rover Owner Information website.
Here's a direct link to the instructions document - Defender Auxiliary Wiring Kit.pdf
Paul.
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I sourced both of my HM series connectors from a late 90's Rover 200 in a scrappy.
The same scrapped Rover 200 had a number of Blue (347477-3) and Black (347477-1) connectors hanging out of it's dash loom, as did most of the other late 90's Rovers in there, with the exception of Rover 75's.
Paul.
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I fitted the OEM front fog light switch and used small spade connectors from VWP instead of trying to find the right connector.
Only problem was, the switch is designed tp control the earth connection of the fog lights control unit rather than its positive feed. If you try to run it round the wrong way the 'on' led on the switch won't work. I assume the switch is intended to operate some sort of ECU rather than a standard type relay. Rather than tryo ro work all this out and source the bits, I installed a mini relay behind the switch to reverse its operation.
So the switch controls the earth part of the mini relay trigger which then sends a positive feed to the main relay controlling the lights.
Phew...
The rear fog lamp switch doesn't latch, it sends a momentary pulse to an ECU which switches on the rear fog lamp(s)
This 'One Touch' ECU, part number YWC104430L isn't that expensive - about £15.00
The 4-way connector to suit the ECU is a little harder to come by, it's made by Sumitomo -
The connector shell is Pt. No. F(6090-1011)
and the terminals are Pt. No's -
F(8240-4412) for cables 0.2 - 0.3 mm2
F(8240-4422) for cables 0.5 - 1.25 mm2
Incidently the 10-way connector for the Hazard Warning Light Switch is also from the same Sumitomo range -
The connector shell is Pt. No. F(6090-1220)
The terminals are the same part numbers as the ECU Connector
Sumitomo catalogue here - Sumitomo HM Series Connectors
I sourced both of my HM series connectors from a late 90's Rover 200 in a scrappy.
Paul.
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Thanks Paul!
Only thing is I have to be honest - I'm no electrician. I've skimmed all the information but can't find where it tells me what the 5 pins on the back of my buttons do (eg 1=live, 2=earth etc). Which section do I need?
Found the spade connectors from RS though!
Thanks
What's the Land Rover part number of the switches you have?
Paul.
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This thread in the Tech Archive gives info on the connector shells and terminals, as well as a link to a 2002 Defender wiring diagram -
I'll re-post the contents here, edited to update links and details -
The 5-way connector shells for the 2002 switches are (Tyco) AMP MultiLock and are as follows -347477-1(Black) - Fits Front and Rear Fog Lamp Switches347477-2(White) - Fits Heated Front Screen and Rear Wiper Switches347477-3(Blue) - Fits Heated Rear Window and Rear Wash Switches347477-4(Green) - Fits Heated Seat SwitchesSee AMP Drawing - 5-Way Receptacle Housing - MultiLock TRW Switch -
The terminals are a female receptacle, AMP part numbers345208-1and175027-1They are also available as a bag of 50 from- catalogue number362-9367I managed to get some Black, White and Blue (they didn't have Green) connector shells and some terminals on a strip from this company -If you can't get the right colour 5-way connector for the switch that you have, you can always use a craft knife to 'pare off' the keyway moulding on the bottom of the connector - it will then fit any switch.You can also do this to the keyway moulding on the switches so that they fit into any of the dash apertures.The wiring and switch pin-outs are in the RAVE 2002 CD electrical libraries and wiring diagrams, as are the Land Rover part numbers for the connectors, although my main dealer cannot find them as orderable parts.Here are some screen grabs for the switches and their connectors from the RAVE 2002 CD -
You can download the full size images in a .zip file here -If the direct link doesn't work - Go here -and selectAll_Switches.zipfor downloadYou can download a .pdf of the Defender 2002 wiring diagram form Nick Taylor's 'Indigoprime' site here -All the 2002 switches, except the Hazard Warning Switch, are not suitable for switching loads directly - use them to switch relays.Paul.
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Also utterly OT, but did anyone notice...? In the DFS ad where they cut a sofa in half with a chainsaw, the chain is running backwards because it spits all the sawdust away from the operator.
I noticed that as well. You don't have to look too closely to see that they didn't actually cut into any sofas, it was all done with rather cheapo CGI.
On another OT saddo moment, did anyone watch 'Jewel of the Nile' on the telly over the weekend?
When they escape through the town in the 'jet fighter' you can clearly see the propshafts from the fuselage to the undercarriage driving it along.
Paul.
Wiring diagram for 110
in Military Forum
Posted
Here's the Wiring Diagram and Key from the AESP Handbook -
(the first pic is the front cover of the handbook)
Paul.