PaulMc

You can get mortice locks for sliding doors, like this Chubb model, which you can buy keyed-alike - Chubb 3M50 Sliding Door Lock http://www.locksonline.co.uk/acatalog/Slid...oor_Locks_.html I would have one a quarter of the way up from the bottom of the door and another (keyed-alike) a quarter of the way down from the top of the door. Another idea is to have locking bolts top and bottom of the door, that lock into the concrete floor and the head of the door frame, like these - Pacri Garage Door Lock http://www.locksonline.co.uk/acatalog/Pacr..._Door_Lock.html Yet another idea is to have the sliding door secured on the inside with hasp/staple/padlock and/or padlocking bolts into the concrete floor and the head of the door frame, with access to/from the alley through a wicket door in the sliding door. The wicket door would have a Yale cylinder lock and/or mortice deadlocks which would enable pedestrian access from the alley to go inside the garage and unlock the main sliding door for vehicle access, like this - I would suggest box-profile metal sheeting, which can also incorporate translucent sheets for natural light. Another, cheaper, alternative is PVC or GRP sheets, which can also incorporate translucent panels. I bought mine from this lot - C & A Building Plastics Their products were OK, but they were a bunch of dozy muppets to deal with Paul.

Be careful about the interior dimensions exceeding 30m2 and, because of the materials you're using, the building's proximity to the boundary with your neighbours. The local council where I used to live (Bexley) have this to say about detached garages - A detached garage is a garage which is structurally unconnected to a dwelling and is used for the storage of cars. An application is not required if the detached (single-storey) building contains no sleeping accommodation, has a floor area not exceeding 30 square metres and is either: constructed substantially of non-combustible material, or at any point, greater than one metre from any boundary. If the detached building has a floor area exceeding 30 square metres then it is necessary to make an application to Building Control. I think that these restrictions apply nationwide (unless you live in a conservation area, when there are even more restrictions). When I built a detached garage at my last house, I ensured that it was under 30m2 internally (6.5m x 4.5m) and under 3m high, so I didn't bother involving planning or building control as I was exempt from their interference. Unfortunately, one of my neighbours decided that the garage was too high and was spoiling her view (this was when it was still walls and before I'd put the roof on) and went around getting-up a petition and complaining to the council. I had a visit from a sad little man from building control who tried telling me all sorts of cr@p as to why I couldn't have a garage the size it was (he'd 'phoned beforehand to make an appointment to come and look at the garage, so I'd prepared myself by printing-off all the guidelines from their website which confirmed I was within my permitted development rights) so I was able to counter all of his fatuous arguments, EXCEPT the one about proximity to the boundaries. This meant that I couldn't have a boarded and felted roof as this was considered too flammable, so I said I would cover the roof with box-profile metal sheeting and that was his last objection shot-down. I never had any more bother from the council after that. The neighbours, however, are another story Paul.

FRC7577 - They're the longer (heavy duty) Defender wheel studs - listed for Defender XD (Wolf), Armoured applications and 130 - BUT, they don't appear in EPC, Microcat or the Defender XD parts book As far as I'm aware, the Heavy Duty 110, the 130 and the production XD (Wolf) all had (have) the standard wheel stud FRC5926 - and later - RUF000020 fitted. A single FRC7577 from a Land Rover dealer will cost you £15.85 incl. VAT - A considerably cheaper BritPart version is available. L. R. Series list the Genuine Part cheaper than a main dealer, as well as the BritPart version - http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listi...WHEEL-STUD.html Paul.

BogMonster, Have a look at this thread (especially the 2nd post ) http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=6319 Paul.

Not to forget - 2 x nuts per bolt AND the appropriate reinforcing and spreader plates either side of the rear crossmember - Details here - NATO Pintle & Socket.pdf Paul.

My mate has just fitted a Discovery II double-cardan front propshaft to his 2" lifted RRC. The double-cardan end (at the transfer 'box) has a bigger diameter flange than the normal LR flange, so he had to fit a new Discovery II front output flange to his transfer 'box, which cost him about £75 from a main dealer. He's got a BW viscous transfer 'box on his RRC and the new flange was a straight swap, it should also be a straight swap on an LT230. To ensure that the sliding joint remained somewhere in the middle of it's travel, he also fitted a Wizardbilt 15mm propshaft spacer at the axle end flange - Paul.

Marcus - Was that you dismantling the swb hardtop sides from the roof on the grass just outside the showground entrance gate? I've been going to the sortout twice a year for a number of years and I reckon that this was the biggest and busiest yet. There appeared to be more stalls and more buyers than ever, including one or two of little or no Land Rover content. It's starting to get difficult to get around all of the stalls and have a proper rummage before sellers start packing up to leave. I think that the Old Sod has seriously got to think about either an earlier start or making it a weekend event. On the plus side - I got a few of the odds and ends I was looking for and my mate got most of the stuff he was looking for. Paul.

That sounds like the PeterLea towing bracket made by the Peter J Lea Company. I don't know if they're still in business as their website, which I have in my bookmarks - http://www.peterlea.com/ doesn't work anymore A quick Google came up with these contact details - Peter J Lea & Co Ltd Car Towing Bracket Manufacturers Address: Peterlea Works, Shaw Road South, Stockport, Cheshire, SK3 8JG, UK Telephone: 01614747966 Fax: 01614804104 Paul.

It's in the fusebox, behind the fuse panel. You'll need to undo the two screws holding the fuse box panel to the bulkhead to enable access to the flasher relay. Paul.

Autosparks sell a kit to replace the glass fuse fusebox with the blade fuse version. I haven't fitted one myself (yet), but I had a look at the kit on their stand at one of the shows and it looked pretty good. Details here - Landrover 90/110 20-Way Fusebox ( for Blade Fuses ) Complete with Terminals - LRA111 Paul.

In my 110 hardtop, I've mounted my Jackall across the bulkhead behind the seats, using Jackall's optional mounting kit. This would also work for a 90 pickup (truck cab?). In this position, the jack is secure, (mostly) out of site to inquisitive eyes and as dry as anything inside a Land Rover can be. Paul.

I bought a crimping tool and dies from a German seller called 'Rocking.George' on eBay, here are his current listings - http://search.ebay.co.uk/_W0QQsassZrocking.george He sells three types, 4 to 70mm2, 16 to 240mm2 and 10 to 300mm2 I bought the 4 to 70mm2 kit (which he doesn't currently have on sale), the details are - Hydraulic crimping tool for cable sizes from 4-70 mm² Heavy duty version, pressure 8 tons, see picture! For electrical cables copper or aluminium compression terminal joints Best quality, see my feedbacks! 14 days money back guarantee! Pressure 8 tons. This tool is new, absolutely ok and delivered in a solid plastic box. Specification Designed for aluminium or copper compression joints, size 4-70mm² Max Working Pressure: 8 Tons Max Working Stroke: 22mm Plastic Box size: 300mm x 170mm x 80mm Weight 8kg Included dies: 4, 6, 8, 10, 16, 25, 35, 50 and 70mm² Rotational Head for easy handling Also included is a set of new seals just in case the originals were to leak. It's Chinese made, but it does the job. I'm really pleased with it. Paul.

The Defender XD Parts Book lists the Header Rail as RRC8597 The same part number is listed in the Sept. 2006 Microcat for civilian 90/110 soft-tops with vinyl hoods (the header rail for canvas soft-tops is a different part number) RRC8597 is listed at £104 Paul.

At my last house I built a garage approx 6.5m long x 4.5m wide x 3.0m high at the end of my back garden. A garage of this size - 30m2 internal area x 3.0m overall height with a flat roof (or 4.0m overall height with a pitched roof) and constructed of mostly non-combustible materials, can be built without planning permission or building control interference in most areas of the country. There are some exceptions, so best to check with your local authority planning dept. Here are some pictures of my old garage after I moved my 110 and cleared all of my old carp valuable stuff to my new house. I built it like this so that I could move my 110 on to the hard-standing in the garden and get my Range Rover in for servicing, etc... Had we not moved, I would have put a clear plastic car port roof over the hard-standing and a clear plastic roof and sides to the walled area immediately behind the garage. Here's a picture of my lovely 12' x 7' shed that I had to leave behind My wife (in one of the pictures with our collie puppy) thought I was very sad taking pictures of my garage and shed before we left. Women just don't understand! These 2 pictures are of the end of my new garden, I'm currently in the process of applying for permission to build a garage 7.0m wide x 7.0m long (internally) x 3.0m high. It will be the full width of the garden, starting at the dashed line in picture 1 and built out to the dashed lines in picture 2 I'm hopeful that I can start building it this summer. I'll post some pictures when it gets underway. Paul.

You beat me to it Ralph - You must be as busy at work as I am Paul.

The chassis is narrower at the back of the vehicle and the JATE rings are packed with thick M10 washers - 10mm hole, 24mm outside diamenter, 2mm thick. These washers are 'M10 Flat Washer, Form C' available from any proper fastener supplier, or they can be ordered from a Land Rover dealer as WC110061L See pic -

I haven't got a 130 - but I saw this ex-BBC outside broadcast unit on eBay a while back and kept the pictures -

Albert Jagger sell them - Cab & Body Fittings, Steps catalogue (3 pages) - AJ_Steps.pdf Commercial Body Fittings also sell them - Steps Catalogue (2 pages) - CBF_Steps.pdf Paul.

A few squids sent. It might be an idea to make the 'Funding' option a bit more prominent, I'd not noticed it before now. Another idea is to do what ORRP do and have 'Supporting Member' or some such title or emblem under the members name/avatar, this would raise awareness of how the forum is funded. This 'Badge of Honour' could be graduated - Bronze, Silver or Gold, depending on the level of donation and would last for 12 months from the day of donation, to encourage donation next year. Paul.

Hobsons Industries in Louth, Lincs. - Hobsons Industries have, for the past couple of years, been selling ex-MoD, N.I., 110 Armoured Patrol Vehicle, Salisbury front axles for about £600 (I think ). For this money, as well as the complete front axle with hubs, calipers, discs, halfshafts, etc..., they include the double-cardan front prop., the heavy duty radius arms and Panhard rod. Paul.

I fitted the Eaton/Durite Modular Rocker Switches from VWP with their bezel/surrounds into the radio panel - Paul.

My mate recently bought one of these off eBay for £233.00 - 12000 lbs Winch It's exactly the same as the 12000 lbs models of T-Max, Champion, Endurance winches. The seller http://myworld.ebay.co.uk/sportsshop_de/ has quite a few listed, the one in the link above finishes at 19:28 today and is currently (18:28) at £150.00 Paul.

This is the only one I've seen - Checkmate Door Kit Paul.

Have a look at this place - Saunderson Security - Wheel Clamps They sell the clamps the professionals use. My mate is a Bailiff, he uses the 'London Police Clamp' and the 'London Triangle Clamp'. The debtors rarely get them off or drive away with them fitted, but when they've tried, they've trashed their car doing so Paul.

Nic, I've scanned Land Rover's Supplementary Parts Catalogues for Military 110 & Military Defender 110, you can download them from here - http://www.defender110.nightmail.ru/ I also have the Supplementary Parts Manual for the 90, which I haven't got around to scanning yet. The 90's roll-over bar and it's fittings are the same as the 110's. I hope this helps. Paul.