PaulMc

Dealers talking nonsense as usual - AFAIK, they've never been available as spare part from Land Rover or MG-Rover. They're still available from the connector's manufacturer (Sumitomo). But, you have to buy a bag of 100 connectors, a bag of 100 splice caps, and a reel of 5000 terminals - then, you have to find someone stocking them, and willing to sell them to you, otherwise Minimum order Quantities (MoQ) apply, and you have to order thousands. I have a small stock of these headers, I posted details here - http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=97603&p=850584 I've also PM'ed you. .

OK .

My eBay shop is - http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Land-Rover-Connectors However, I can do stuff a bit cheaper by PM on here. I also have a lot more than I currently have on eBay. .

No, they're not on eBay. PM me here on the forum, I can do stuff cheaper than on eBay. .

It sounds as though you may looking for circuit headers, or splice connectors. I have the 20-way splice connectors, used as circuit headers on Defenders from 300Tdi to date. They are available in six different colours, each colour denotes a different configuration (and number) of commoned circuits. Although the splice caps on these are sub-divided into sub-circuits, you can easily change this configuration by inserting a short link lead loop between sub-circuits. Land Rover do this on several headers, to increase the number of 'ways' available at a particular header. BLACK Sub-divided into five circuits - BLUE Sub-divided into four circuits - GREEN Sub-divided into four circuits - GREY Sub-divided into three circuits - ORANGE Sub-divided into six circuits - YELLOW Sub-divided into five circuits - Supplied (as pictured above) with a 20-Way Splice Connector, Splice Cap and 20 x Sumitomo 090 Terminals. They are £8.95 each + Postage .

Electrically, the ACE system is fairly self-contained. There's no connection to the BCU. There's a single connection to the engine ECM, for an engine speed signal, and a single connection to the SLABS ECU for a road speed signal. .

Have a look at these - http://www.greenlandrover.uk/installing-becker-traffic-pro-4765-satnav-into-freelander/ http://www.discovery2.co.uk/navigation.html .

I fitted one of the later arms to my 110, which still has the original 1989 wiper motor. As you say, the newer arm fits without problem. I was having trouble finding the original side-pin rear wiper blades, other than Genuine from a main dealer. .

That's the one PRC8558 ↓ Superseded by DKB000370PMD ↓ Superseded by DKB000371PMD ↓ Superseded by LR033006 .

If you fit the latest type of rear wiper arm - LR033006 It uses the same wiper blades as the front wipers - DKC000110PMD .

Ralph, Yes, I still have those connectors They are £0.60 + postage. I'll reply to your PM with my PayPal details. Cheers, Paul.

That's a 4-way Econoseal connector. You need the 4-way female connector to connect to that pump/sender unit. The cheapest Econoseals that I've found, are from Polevolt - http://www.polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/info_ESC4F.html .

Nugget Stuff's Defender Puma sealed airbox intake kit is now available in the UK, from FirstFour - http://www.firstfour.co.uk/item/2176798/defender-puma-sealed-air-system--rhd .

That sounds a bit like my 1989 110 If you use the 300Tdi wiring diagrams as a reference - the wiring is still fairly basic, and should easily translate to a 1989 vehicle.. A cable's current rating depends on the type of insulation, as well as the thickness of copper. I wouldn't buy Automotive cable from RS - as, they only stock a very limited range of expensive cable from TE Connectivity. As previous posters have said, have a look at - VWP, Autosparks, as well as - AES, Polevolt, and Kojaycat. http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/section.php/198/1/single-core-pvc-thin-wall-cable http://www.autosparks.co.uk/electrical-components/cables/thin-wall.html http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/70/category/114 http://www.polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/Thinwall_cable_cut_to_length.html http://www.polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/Full_100_mtr_Reels.html http://kojaycat.co.uk/epages/950000457.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/950000457/Categories/Cable .

If you use the Wiring Diagrams from RAVE as a reference, the wire gauges and colours are shown for all of the vehicle's wiring. What age is your Defender? .

That connector is C410 Although RAVE says that it's where the interior lamp harness connects to the main harness - it's actually where the harness for an additional ultrasonic alarm sensor connects to the main harness. .

I think you're right Phil, it sounds as though they're put under pressure by their managers, to cope with the extra workload at this time of year. Royal Mail usually take on casual staff to cope with the increased volume. .

This makes interesting reading - http://www.lifestylecouriers.net/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=7304 .

The 10AS unit controls the central locking (if it has the extra relay on its circuitboard), as well as the turning on and off, the courtesy lights. You can hook-up aftermarket lock actuators to work with the 10AS unit - but, only as lock/unlock 'slave' units. The 5-wire control circuit 'master' actuator for the driver's door, which is supplied in all of the aftermarket kits, is incompatible with the 4-wire control circuit used in the 10AS and 'factory' driver's door 'master' actuator. .

http://bellautoservices.co.uk/ .

The TD5 (Defender and Discovery-2) heated seat switches are 'portrait' - The TDCi Puma heated seat switches are 'landscape' (and a lot cheaper than the TD5 type) - The heated seat switches (TD5 and Puma) are wired the same as the Defender heated rear window switch. So, you could use the Discovery-2 heated rear window switch front on a Puma heated seat switch. The Discovery-2 front windows switches and heated seat switches are exactly the same switches as used in the TD5 Defender - so, will work OK .

Polevolt are the cheapest I've found Shaun, who runs 3waycomponents, lives not far from me, and I've dealt with him several times - but, for Econoseal connectors, he's dearer than Polevolt. .

The TD5 Defender electric windows switches were lifted straight out of the pre-facelift Discovery-2 (1999 - 2002), and are exactly the same part numbers (front windows switches only, the Discovery-2 rear windows switches are different, and use a different coloured connector). The front electric windows switches from a facelift Discovery-2 (2003 - 2004) will also work - but, they're 'Black', whereas the pre-facelift Discovery-2 and Defender ones are 'Ash Grey'. The TD5 Defender heated seat switches were also lifted straight out of the pre-facelift Discovery-2 (1999 - 2002), and are exactly the same part numbers. The heated seat switches from a facelift Discovery-2 (2003 - 2004) will also work - but, they're 'Black', whereas the pre-facelift Discovery-2 and Defender ones are 'Ash Grey'. The Discovery-2 heated rear window (HRW) switch shares the same switch front as the Defender (pre-facelift/facelift colours, as above) - but, switches differently. On the Defender, the HRW switch is a latching, live-switching switch. On the Discovery-2, the HRW switch is momentary, earth-switching switch, working in conjuction with the Body Control Unit (BCU). They also use different coloured (and keyed) 5-way connectors - The Defender uses the Blue 5-way connector. The Discovery-2 uses the Black 5-way connector. The Discovery-2 and Defender heated front screen (HFS) switches share the same switch front (pre-facelift/facelift colours, as above), and are electrically identical, they are both momentary, earth-switching switches - but, they both use different coloured connectors - The Defender switch works in conjunction with the timer relay, and uses a White 5-way connector. The Discovery-2 switch works in conjunction with the BCU, and uses a Green 5-way connector. There may also be differences between the moulded keyways on the switch's bodies - but, these are easily removed with a sharp knife. .

Here are the wiring diagrams for the dash illumination on a 2007MY Defender - The feed comes from the main lighting switch, via F20 to circuit headers C0290, and C0288 The circuit headers can be found in these locations - .

That's the correct connector, for the valve that looks like this - .