Chicken Drumstick

if you want to learn about offset, Google is your friend... But essentially ET means from the rim centre to the front face in mm. A negative ET will move the rims outboard and a positive more inboard. e.g. If you had a 8" wide rim with 00 offset you'd have a 4 inch dish on the front and back. A 7" wide rim with 00 offset would be 3.5" dish either side. While an 8" rim with say a -25ET would have a 5 inch dish on the outside and a 3 inch dish on the inside. In this case making the rim stick out the arch an inch further than 00ET. A 255/85 is design to fit a 6.5 - 8.5" wide rim. So any will work bar the 10j rim. Although IMO an 8" wide rim does make this size tyre look a little stretched. A 7" rim would probably be more ideal. As for offset. Factory rims are 16x7 or 16x6.5 normally with an offset of +33ET, so quite tucked in the arch. With the 16x7's above you say you can get them in -20 and -25? tbh I've never really looked at these rims. But 5mm difference is going to make no odds at all and you'd never tell by eye. Odd that they offer such similar offsets. Either should work fine.

I believe they slightly adjust the pump timing to inject the fuel slightly earlier to get a longer/better burn. i.e. more fuel is turned into power and less wasted out of the exhaust. Years back places like Jeremy J Fern used to tamper with the engine timing, I think this was trying to achieve something similar but before these boost rings existed as a concept. I can't say for certain, but I have a stock turbo modded 200Tdi that runs pretty well in an 88 coiler. A mate has a dyno verified 190hp Td5 90 and in a straight line he is quicker, but not quick enough to over take if he is behind me. I'm no way saying the Tdi is this power level, it most certainly isn't. But it does run rather well. Did a bit of a fun drag race last summer in a field (0 to about 70'ish mph) against an EFI 3.9 86 coiler and an 88 3.9 comper. I beat both of them. My 200Tdi has a tweaked pump, slightly tweaked boost, free flow exhaust dual inlet manifold and a boost ring.

lol and they say it isn't a Discovery..... j/k But you can clearly see where the design language has come from with the profile, shape, alpine lights, longer bonnet, spare wheel. I would say this D2 looks amazing to my eyes. So I suppose it isn't an insult to the new model. Why oh why did they have to put Defender badges on it. 🤦‍♂️

Got around to fitting the item I bought. Mini review here:

That said, for the most part it is fairly obvious with the intent of what they are wanting.

Yes exactly, hence why it is a self declaration. There are too many cars and variables for the gov to give examples or definitives, just like the radically altered or rebuilt regs. So it is down to you as the owner to interpret them and decide if you comply or not. To which you then sign. If the DVLA or DVSA decide to disagree, they will generally have the power they need. So you will never be able to find anyone to give you conclusive answers.

The entire process is a self declaration one, you have to sign to say you are meeting the guidance. So if it turns out you aren't, you would be liable. But there isn't an active check or pre-qualification process.

If I recall correctly the dates are different for each. So you might be able to get Historic status and be valid for one but not the other. Pretty sure that’s what happened with one of my Series 3’s.

Yes it should be quite possible. You'll have to decide on a few things, like engine location/gearbox location and maybe some custom propshafts. I believe the downpipe can be more of an issue on a 109, although I'm sure there are kits/solutions these days. And you'll probably need to decide what you are doing with the steering. Ultimately a 300Tdi auto is a bit of a slug, although you can chip/remap the EDC injection pumps these days. For me though having had a 200Tdi 88. It went well and I did a lot of miles in it, but it was way too unrefined and I wouldn't go down that route again. If you aren't doing big milages I think a Rover V8 is the way to go or maybe even a T-Series 2.0 petrol. And arguably an engine swap and an auto gearbox in a 109, you have to question if you'd just be better off investing in a 110. As you are removing quite a lot of the character of a Series vehicle.

I had no part in setting up either of these events. They are actually RTV 's and at National level. But it is interesting you picked the last photo as this is what happened next.... Which I think really does go to show that sometimes it isn't easy to spot such hazards or how people might drive them. I think you are taking this way out of context. I just want it for a bit of fun and a way of knowing what a certain slope may be angle wise. I'm not out measuring the slopes and we have been trialling for decades. It just a matter of self pride, that if I set an event up (which I a number of times a year). I'd like to know I've done my due diligence. e.g. a slope might be 40 degrees, which for another event we'd maybe drive along or at an angle. But for a tyro you'd have to stick with more of a straight up or down trajectory. There will be no insurance issues, no investigations. Just people enjoying motorsport safely.

Slightly off topic, but is it a modern'ish vehicle? I do use a gps speedo app on a phone quite a bit. Technically as far as I know they should be relatively accurate. If I use the app in my Jimny it does indeed fluctuate +-5mph constantly and never gives a constant read out. I assume there must be some interference. Because the same phone and app produce very stable readings in all my other vehicles.

Unless you have some kind of active suspension that lets you raise one side of the vehicle up (the side/end most downhill). Which to some extent the new LR models on EAS do for side slopes, but it is very limited. The vehicle will show a steeper angle than the terrain, so there will be no risk at all, as the slope will never be as bad as measured. Also this doesn't have to be an exact science, just enough to be an informed decision. Slope angle is pretty hard to guess just looking at some ground (at least it is for me), even more so if you are on the side of a hill to begin with that might then have dips and rises. Hence the number of vehicles that do get rolled when off road. For my intended use I'll drive onto a bit of ground I want to use. If it says 33 degree side slope, it's no. If it says 20 degree, its a yes. In reality both would be safe, but one is permitted, the other isn't (for Tyro's). Without a measure I'm just guessing and we have had it queried on some events. At least this way I'll have some idea. Plus aside from that, it is just a stat. And lots of people, often car people love stats; top speed, power, 0-60mph, tyre diameter, ground clearance, wading depth, breakover angle, crawl ratio etc etc etc. I'm not sure I'm really understanding why you are so against this? Just to give a bit more substance to this. This is a Tyro we ran last year, someone complained the gradient of the site was too steep for a tyro. On the left by the fence line it gets steeper. As it happens it was well within the regs, but on the day nobody had any way of measuring what the gradient was. Ultimately it was just someone complaining, but it would have been nice to have had something more solid to shut them up with. On a similar note, just by eyeballing, I personally would not be able to tell if these angles are too much for a tyro or not (remember not subjective on if you'd drive it or not, it is 25% and 50% by the blue book). For an RTV it doesn't really matter, but as a club we are much newer to running Tyro events which have these heavier restrictions.

Just to clarify, I really don't want to use my mobile phone for any of this. The inclinometer apps tend to be pricey or full or adverts or both. But it is more logistics. I just don't want the faff of having to remember to bring my phone holder and have it taking up windscreen space. As for using the inclinometer, I've done lots of off roading. I won't be using it for anything other than idle curiosity for anything I would normally do. But for setting up certain events I can now go and park on a bit of terrain and see if it exceeds the limits allowed. If it does I'll do something else, if it doesn't, I'll start putting some canes in the ground and set up a section. While looking for a basic manual inclinometer which I found for about £23 delivered I saw this one that does a lot more. As said in my op, I didn't like the price. But I would genuinely find all the info it can display very handy. Plus it would do what I'm after inclinometer wise. I just had questions based on the product description. As it turns out I ordered this in the end for £25 delivered: When it arrives I'll see if it was a mistake or not. But for £25 I'm guessing/hoping it won't be. Personally I do not believe there will be any issue with accuracy either. Or to put it another way, it'll be a lot more accurate than simply guessing. FYI, for Tyro trials you have to adhere to these limits: 7.1.2. Any longitudinal gradient must be 50% maximum. 7.1.3. Any transverse gradient must be 25% maximum.

I think @Cornish Rattler is just trolling. They posted the same thread over on Landyzone at about the same time.

There really is no right or wrong and there is a huge range. I tend to run 28psi all round as a starting point. If you are towing or hauling you'll want more air in, esp the rear tyres. All they way up to 40psi potentially. You can also alter the handling balance a bit by going harder/softer on either the front or rear.

tbh you probably won't go wrong with any of them. The only real time a variance in tyres matters is competition use. For normal running about and driving, so long as it is the right type of tyre. Pretty much any brand will normally be more than good enough. That way you can choose based on appearance, price or availability. All IMHO.

I think you will be fine. 00 offset on a 7" rim is rare. Most 00 offsets are 8 or 10" rims. This the tyre doesn't change widths, just there the front and rear face are. The 7j rim on 08 offset means the inner face is in the same place as a 00 offset 8j rim. What it does do is change where the centre line of the tyre is. In terms of sizes, a 285/75 is quite a chunky tyre. But mostly a direct fit on a 90/110. Should be about an inch taller than a standard fitment 235/85, 265/75 or 7.50 x 16. But quite a bit fatter. A 255/85R16 is a popular aftermarket choice for a Land Rover and would fit those rims well. Taller again by about another 1/2" but less fat. Sadly not very many tread patterns available in this size though.

Because for Tyro trials there are documented limits. Exceed these and should an accident occur it could invalidate the insurance or make people liable. Not really worth the risk when setting up and running motorsports events.

Lots of benefits. I'm pretty sure the volt meter would be accurate enough, I don't need it down to 4 decimal places. But having had an alternator failure and a spare that also wasn't working while laning last year. A simple read out would be very handy. The speedo also isn't 100% great in my 88 and I swap tyre sizes often, so a gps speed is handy. I don't need the compass or altitude, although I personally find altitude quite interesting. Even more so when out laning and things a past SatNav used to show altitude and I've often thought I'd like it more visible. Likewise a clock is a clock and handy and the vehicle doesn't have one. Ultimately I was really looking for an inclinometer as I've been setting up more and more Tyro trials recently and there are limits on slope gradients. All the other features are just a bonus that would be handy in normal driving. I really don't want it on my phone as I may not take my phone out of my pocket or may not want it docked in the vehicle if I jump out. A phone app also means you have to mount the phone, plug it in, unlock the phone, search for the app, open the app. Which is just a faff. This solution once fitted should be no effort at all and will be there and work when I start the engine.

Curious, who would be the insurer for this kind of thing? I assume it is not a motorsport event? Happy if you prefer to PM the answer. Thanks.

What 16x7 rims do you have with that offset? Certainly not a common offset. Offset is distance from the centre line, so while a stock rim might be ET33, they would normally be 6.5 wide rims, so the amount the rim sticks out will vary with width and offset. As a rule wider tyres need to be moved outwards, as they will rub the radius arm and massively reduce your steering lock. Go too wide however and you'll end up with tyres sticking outside of the arches. Which in the UK is illegal (Construction & Use Regs, not MoT). "Technically" you need a minimum of a 7.5" wide rim for a 285/75: Although they will physically fit. The 285 is a fairly chunky tyre, expect a bit more bump steer and probably worse mpg over a standard size. And they 'could' rub the wheel arch spats under full suspension flex (rear more so than the front). Overall I would think that legalities aside, they should fit and look fine. As for a lift. Well a lift doesn't really allow bigger tyres unless you plan to leave it parked up and never drive it This is because under normal suspension compression, the tyre will still move upwards, essentially illuminating the lift. A stiff lift (HD springs) or one that limits up travel might reduce any potential rubbing, but only by being a poor setup limiting suspension travel. Overall I'd be surprised if you had rubbing issues with this size tyre and rim. Apart from maybe the front radius arms still.

The Disco isloators are just rubber donut rings that sit on the top of the spring to create a barrier between the metal spring touching the inside of the upper metal spring seat. I'd guess real world they are worth 5-10mm lift tops. Not enough that you'd be able to eyeball it. And while in theory they should reduce NVH, I doubt anyone would be sensitive to know a vehicle with or without them. The Discovery had a whole host of NVH changes over a Defender, which collectively improve NVH and refinement a lot. Although the biggest change is having the body as a body tub mounted and isolated away from the chassis on rubber donuts. Something you'll never be able to recreate on a Defender. Are you shocks standard length or longer? If standard, the standard length spring will work fine. If you have longer shocks the +2 standard rate spring is less likely to dislocate or fall out of the spring seat when off road.

Thanks. I had seen that, but still vague info sadly. Just bought an alternative one with the same features for £25. Although will have to wait and see how good it is.

Maybe. Although they all seem a bit pricey. Would rather know the answers to the questions around why it has a speaker and what units it uses. Pictures also look like it has an SD card slot. But nothing mentioned in the description. Less money would be good. But ultimately more interested in the features and what it does.

Could you explain? Not sure what you are meaning.