Chicken Drumstick

Not easily or cheaply. Real world answer is no. But with enough time and money, you can do pretty much anything. Maybe you could expand a little on why you want to do it, what you want to achieve and what vehicle you have exactly.

Some video footage:

Not sure how many of you venture into the competition forum, so thought I'd post up some pics of this weekends proceedings. This is the ALRC National 2017 held at Stainby this year. Events include RTV Trial, CCV Trial, Comp Safari and Team Recovery. Plus other minor fun and childrens events. I helped setup, run and marshal the RTV, so not many pics from that, but it's essentially the same idea as the CCV trial, only somewhat less hardcore. So more 'normal' looking road going Land Rovers.

I have to say. I personally love big fat wide tyres for the monster truck look. But narrow tyres often go so much better on U.K. terrain. Real 7.50's are a really nice size. Good steering lock, quick responsive steering off road. And often grip way better than wide tyres unless you are on sand. Narrower tyres often give better road mpg too. So to that end if anyone wants 7.50's I'd advise them to go for it.

It sadly is a common trait these days. More so in the remould market. That they sell the exact same size tyre and just stamp one as a 7.50. But they aren't. They are 235's and often wide 235's. And makes buying proper 7.50's even harder.

A 180hp 3.9 V8 doesn't need much flow though.... I struggle to believe flow is really an issue worth addressing unless you are adding forced induction.

Depends entirely on the tyre in question. As there seems to be no recognised standard on where the width of a tyre is measure from, i.e. is it bead to bead, shoulder to shoulder, or tread to tread. And if the latter do you include large lugs that stick out from the tyre. I/we have a lot of tyres. And the proper 7.50 x 16's are all way narrower than the narrowest 235/85R16. And the 235's vary massively. I don't really have the right pictures online. But these are 235's These are 7.50's These are also another set of wide 235's, treat is way more than 180mm In fact, many of the 235's we have are as wide or quite a few cases wider than an 8.25 x 16 tyre. These aren't 235's, but demonstrate the variety of physical sizes for a given tyre size spec.

The thing to consider is, are you going just for noise, or for performance. Tubular manifolds flow better than the stock log style ones, but in all honesty, not to any amount that really affects performance on a stock RV8. What they do typically do is a thing called exhaust scavenging. The longer the primary pipes the better. This can provide a noticeable difference to the engine. Although as a rule it'll move the power curve slightly to the right... so some people may claim it feels less powerful low down. But probably is more a case of just feeling more revvy at the mid and top end. The issue is, I'm not sure there are many long tube headers available for a 90. Rimmer Bros list some that look interesting, although maybe still a little on the short side. Short primary pipes will scavenge at high rpm... as in higher than the RV8 revs at. Which is why you want long primary pipes, to get the scavenging in the lower rpm. Now, it is possible to strangle a V8 running a Y pipes and single exhaust. But the RV8 is not a HP monster, so you don't need to go overboard on anything stupid, but if you are after power, then it's all worth considering. On a stock engine, good breathing mods will make the engine drive and feel nicer. More free revving and should promote some power. Their biggest gains however will be if you combine it with a cam or cam & head mods. Good breathing mods, such as tubular manifolds will affect the a/f ratio, so you may need to compensate for this somehow to get the most from it and no negative effects. As for the actual exhaust, really depends on your budget. Rimmer Bros sell an entire system with manifolds, no idea how good it is, but it's a one shot deal. A custom exhaust however will give you a lot more freedom. And remember, even if you do go for off the shelf or a custom exhaust, there is no reason you couldn't get it altered afterwards by a custom exhaust shop. So if it turns out to be too loud or too quiet, you could add/remove a silencer, or go for a different type/size silencer. While on this, different silencer types will make it sound completely different too. Chambered silencers vs glass pack vs straight thru. And they can have a serious affect on flow rate too. Only thing you can do is some research on what you think you like the sound of. However, I would say, no two RV8's ever sound quite the same. I used to run a cammed 3.5 RV8 in my TR7. I swapped it for a 3.9. Same exhaust including headers and same carb and inlet manifold. But they sounded completely different.

A 235 is actually a heck of a lot wider than a 'proper' 7.50. It's a real shame the market has been polluted this way, so much so that it's now somehow taken as acceptable. Technically a 235 is also too wide for Series LR rims. You'll normally want a 6j rim as the minimum width. Btw 7.5" is only 190mm.

Yeah just me having a dumb moment I think

ok, thanks. Hadn't noticed it was a link when on my phone, lol Interestingly that link shows two possibilities and the replies after it have two further people claiming they can't find the numbers on the actual chassis either. Will have to have another look at mine. Ta

Funny I don't see anything in the quote just 'Here you are' then blank space.

Ta. Afraid I can't see anything in the post you quoted. And I guess this is the question I'm really asking. Is that D1 or D2 you are referencing as I've seen people say front RH chassis rail by the bolts for the steering box. Google seems to throw up at least 2 or maybe 3 different locations. But I'm yet to find anyone actually claiming if any are correct or showing a photo. Thus far I've not been able to find any on my Disco chassis but unsure if I'm just looking in the wrong place. Thabks.

I'm not sure where the tyres came from, but might well have been Vass. I have One Ton rims that came from their and are moderately local to me. My Uncle sourced the tyres a good number of years ago. We have 5, one brand new with the little knobbles on the tread still. 2 part worn and 2 a bit more worn. I'd love to find an extra 1 to replace the most worn pair. But no luck and I suspect silly money. I did speak to someone who reckoned they could source them, but would need a few months lead time and I think was coming in at over £400 a tyre!! Bar grips look cool, not too sure about their road manners though. But I do keep thinking about getting some for my other Land Rover.

As others have mentioned, the 109 One Ton model came standard on 9.00 x 16 tyres. As did all of the Land Rover Forward Controls (Series 2b and 101). However the 109 One Ton was lifted from the factory, it has a different spring mount and a longer shackle. Fitting longer shackles is easy, but you will slightly alter the pinion angle of the diff, hence why LR also changed the mounting points. But for most people it's not a big deal to just run the shackles. However be warned, 9.00 x 16 tyres are rare and there is very little choice in tread patterns and they are also expensive. They also vary in height considerably. I've seen some hardly anymore than 33" tall, while others are 36" tall. I believe Michelin have often cited a 225/100 16 as a 'similar' size. According to the maths these should result in 33.72" tall. I say this, as obviously 36" tall tyres are going to be huge on a Series. And they will affect gearing, performance and risk of axle breakages. This is my Series, I'm currently running some Michelin XZL 8.25 x 16 tyres. This are even rarer and fall in between the common 7.50 x 16 and the 9.00 x 16. These are significantly taller than a 7.50 x 16 XZL and are taller than 235/85R16's by an inch or so. I'll be honest and say, I think a 9.00 x 16 is it was taller than the 8.25's (which it should be), then it'd be a little too tall unless you have beefed up axles and plenty of power. When the 8.25's are worn out, I'll probably have to replace them with 255/85R16's as the closest modern size, although they are fair chunk wider.

I'm sure this has been asked loads of times. But Google isn't being exactly definitive in it's answer. Can anyone tell me the exact location (a photo would be great) of where the chassis number should be stamped on a 200tdi Disco 1 please? Many thanks

The other thought is, while crawling around at 5mph might result in electric fans being on and using power, it's not as if you are needing the extra power at that speed, so it matters not that they are using some.

Just curious, does anyone know of any options for some exhaust manifolds for a V8 90? The vehicle in question is a factory V8 with the LT-85. It had a custom stainless exhaust many years ago, basically from the Y piece back. We fitted new downpipes then. But one has rotted through and looks like the actual log manifold has had it too. I've seen some tubular manifolds listed for Classic Range Rover's and the p38 seems to use a different manifold. But does anyone know what fits and works on a 90? Not sure how much bulkhead and chassis clearance there is by comparison. Thanks.

Aftermarket diffs, take a look at Ashcroft and other vendors, loads of different ratios.

My mistake. And yes you are correct. The LS6 (the more sporty version of the LS1) revved to around 7000rpm IIRC. So it can be done with a production OHV engine. But the case of the RV8, it was just never designed for that kind of use.

I agree it is quite wide, but not ultra rare IMO. Lots of the blinged up Defenders round here run tyres of that sort of width it seems. As for throwing mud up the sides, I agree. Although it's not always as clear cut as you might think. Got some 235/85's that throw way more mud up the side of the vehicle than some 33.11.50's do.

I know lots of you are saying 315 is massive. But it's no bigger than a 12.50 tyre, which is a pretty common size in some parts of the world. i.e. a 35.12.50R15 315mm = 12.4" I suspect you need a 10 inch wide rim for such a tyre however to be 'legal'. With the two sizes listed by the op, the 315 will be about 1/2" taller and slightly wider. Will probably look quite a bit more chunky.

The LS motors make good torque higher in the rev range. But don't let the PEAK numbers fool you. When the LS1 came out in 1997/8 there was a lot of talk about it making PEAK torque at 4400rpm vs 2500rpm for the out going LT1 (both 5.7 litres, the LT1 being the engine it replaced). Many claimed the LS1 was all revs and no low end and the LT1 was much more torquey. This however is utter rubbish. The stock LS1 makes over 95% of it's PEAK torque from 1500rpm!!!!!!!!! Meaning that at 1500rpm the LS1 makes more torque than a Chevy LT1 V8 did in total. Holding onto the torque at higher rpm is what makes the LS series of engines make so much more power than the LT1 or earlier OHV V8 engines.

Hope this doesn't come across sounding rude, but I think you are seriously misunderstanding what the engine is. The high numbers on the tacho mean very little. Most OHV push rod V8's are not high revving engines. Even the full out race motors. There are many reasons for this, but mostly it's about valve control. To allow airflow at high rpm means you need large valve openings. But with 2 valves per cylinder this is difficult. As you end up with very large valves and heavy springs. This gives very poor control at low rpm and often very poor low rpm performance. DOHC and multi valve technology (4 or 5 valves per cylinder) solve this. As it's easier to open more smaller vales a little bit, than one big valve a lot. The upshot is, the powerband is broader on engines that use this technology. So you can have something road usable and high rpm. Piston stroke vs bore can affect how revvy an engine is too. And there are lots of other technologies such as variable intake lengths, VTEC, VVC, MIVEV that alter the cam profile across the rev range. The downside is, all this tech usually adds complexity, weight and cost to an engine. And they don't always perform better overall. To give an example of rpm. The Honda Type R K20 engine is known for high rpm activities, 8000rpm or so. The Rover K-Series is also quite a revvy little engine, but more at 7000rpm. But the interesting thing to note is, the Honda engine is very short stroke compared to the Rover engine. So while their PEAK rpm seem very different, I believe the Rover engine actually has the faster piston speed, as the piston has to travel further on each revolution. As for the Rover V8 itself. It is still a fairly compact and lightweight engine and is a very good engine for around 250hp. The big limitation is the heads can only flow so much air. So a 3.5 or a 4.6 (or even a 5.0 litre) can all make rather similar PEAK power numbers. The larger capacity engines will make more low and mid range power however and feel faster and more powerful. If you want to spend BIG money, it is easily done on a Rover V8. But most times power outputs only end up being moderate to disappointing. There are many claims of big power Rover V8's. However when any are dyno'd the numbers are always a lot lower than you think. I've seen lots of built 5.0 units or 4.8's, often claiming silly amounts of power. Only for them to put up a dyno figure of around 280-290hp. A well built 3.5 will feel more revvy and make 220-230hp. What TVR and what V8 do you have? If you want go faster bits for RV8's, try here: http://www.v8developments.co.uk/products/index.shtml But there is simply loads and loads and loads of info on the internet. It's a hugely popular and common engine in the UK and Europe and has been around since the 1960's. Personally I'd not go too mad. A simple cam, good tune and some bolt ons will probably get you 80-90% of the way. The last 10-20% will cost you huge and probably not make as much difference as you think. Also consider power adders such as supercharger, turbo's or even nitrous oxide.

I can't answer your question. But suspect it matters not in the real world. A 200hp low revving RV8 really isn't pushing that much air through it.