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rqsall

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Everything posted by rqsall

  1. Rear window wipe (pull towards you), and rear window wash & wipe (push away from you)
  2. I have that too. Wiggle the switch on the steering column and both work again. I sprayed some contact cleaner/enhancer into it and hold it slightly to one side (I forget which one) when I turn them on. Proper fix would be a new switch, but it is integrated with other steering column switches and is quite an expensive part.
  3. Hello, I replaced the power steering pump on my 1991 RR (3.9 EFI). It is the one with the big nut on the side. However, now it leaks at the fitting where the pressure hose is connected to this big nut. Looking at the parts catalog I see an O-ring roughly where that hose would be. The part number is RTC4826. Looking at the old PAS pump I do not see a seal in there, but it may have fallen out when I was replacing it. The hose is also flanged, like a brake pipe, so I'm in doubt if there should be a O-ring there. I've removed the big nut thingy from the old pump and there is an O-ring where that big nut enters the pump, is this the O-ring the parts catalog shows? Or should I really put a seal on the flanged pipe. Thank you for any answers
  4. My '91 is a standard edition RRC (cloth seats, manual box, etc... ) the fob I have is aftermarket stuff. Originally there was no fob, only central locking through the locks in the front doors. I think only the SE and LSE models had alarm from the factory and thus came with the fob.
  5. On non-softdash cars with aircon, it's where Bowie69 says. This is where it's on my '91 with aircon. Without aircon I've been told it's indeed by the heater and requires dismantling of the dash to replace it.
  6. My guess is the voltage sensitive switch. It was the problem on my '91. You can just take it out and short the wires. It is there to prevent the heater from kicking in when the engine isn't running (the lower voltage will prevent the switch from kicking in the heater), but it's a bit pointless as it will not work without the ignition key turned to the "ON" position anyway. The switch is quite expensive too, so I wouldn't bother replacing it unless you can get one from a breaker's yard. It's on the left of the steering column (on a LHD drive car). Pretty difficult to reach, but I have chubby hands ;-) It's a tall yellow "relay looking" device. You won't see it until you have it loose but it has the words "voltage sensitive switch" and a land rover part number spelled on it Good luck.
  7. *sigh* just what I didn't want to hear... ;-) seems to keep coming back to that though. Drove a bit more with front prop removed today, perhaps wishful thinking, but it seems more mellow. What I also forgot to mention earlier (and points to gearbox as well) is that it gets worse as the engine/drivetrain warms up. Regarding RPM based vibration, have you checked compression? It shouldn't differ too much among the cylinders. Also a bad injector, perhaps check plugs... engine mounts Good luck, with fixing yours! Ian.
  8. yes, thought about it, but I don't see how changing from 4th to 5th would change the vibration at the same speed. If it was wheel balance, or propshaft, why would it matter in what gear the box is in? Anyone ever had this and had it solved by balancing? Thank you, Ian.
  9. They've crossed my mind too, but escaped me when I was compiling my "suspects list". They've certainly never been changed at 130 k miles. They're certainly cheap enough, so I suppose I'll give that a go, but the mounts just lessen vibration, it would be nice to know what's causing it The vibration is definitely felt through the bum. Ian.
  10. Hello all, I have a rather elusive vibration issue on a 1991 RR (3.9 EFI) with a LT77 gearbox and the infamous BorgWarner transfer case. It is not felt through the steering. It happens at 80km/hr(50 mph) in 5th gear, but not in 4th. Accelerating in 4th to 100km/hr brings it back around 90 -100km/hr and shifting to 5th doesn't bring it back. It also happens in 3rd and 4th at about 55km/hr to 65 km/hr. Removing the front propshaft doesn't change anything substantially. Done so far (also in relation to fixing other problems): - replaced u-joints in both propshafts. Can't feel any play in the sliding joints. - changed oil in transfer case. - changed oil in diffs. - ball joints in drag link/drop arm changed/overhauled (track rod ones seem ok) - replaced rear wheel bearings and hub seals - full electrical tune up (new genuine rotor and cap, alternator, coil, ignition module, plugs, leads) - Head gasket blew 18 months ago and was fixed, but the vibration was there before it went. - swivel preload checked, is within spec. - panhard rod bushings replaced. - rear trailing arms bushings replaced. - oil level in gearbox is ok, and oil looks ok. (been planning on changing it, but haven't gotten around to it yet). - overhauled rear brake calipers. Things to suspect: - when I changed the u-joints, I found out that the front propshaft was mounted the wrong way around, the manual specifies the sliding joint nearest the transfer case, it was mounted at the diff flange. - There's noticable play in the bearing of the front output shaft of the BW transfer case. - I think I can feel some play on the swivel bearings. - compression imbalance in engine? Injector or two not giving as much fuel as the others, or too much? - LT77 mainshaft problem, even though the box shifts fine and doesn't jump out of any gear. Things I think I can rule out: - front propshaft: even with it removed, the vibration is still there - wheel balance: same speed, different gear makes it go away. - alignment: not felt through steering - front diff I realize the combination of V8, LT77 and BW is not a very common one Thank you for any input and ideas, Ian.
  11. Nah, not difficult at all, but a bit pricey if not needed. I sprayed some teflon based lubricant in the vertical guides. At least it moves up by itself now, albeit rather slow. Thanks for the answers.
  12. Hi, The passenger window moves down like it should (aided by gravity I presume) but moves up very slowly and reluctantly. Sometimes stopping and moving again after getting some manual aid by pressing against the window and pushing along. Tried changing the switches around, just to rule that part of the equation out, but to no avail. Took the trim off and took a look, but can't find anything obviuosly wrong. Connectors look fine, grease doesn't seem to be very dirty at all, but seemed a little stiff. All parts are greased, so I was reluctant to squirt WD40 in, as it would dissolve the grease. And didn't want to ruin anything before investigating further. I'm wondering if it just needs some lubrication (Can I just clean all the grease out and lube with WD40?) or if I should replace or overhaul the motor.
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