Outrage

Hi Geoff, I've not made one from scratch but I've made substantial repairs on one and it looks as good as new now, they are a lot simpler (IMHO) than civvie bulkheads and dont trap as much water, and there arn't that many bits to them. I found that I could cut out sections even around the pressed vent part and weld in new bits. Post a picture so we can see how badly it's gone. They are expensive to get hold of new and becoming rare second hand so don't write it off too soon. Cheers. Lee

Hey all thanks for the comments so far, they make interesting reading and good advice on both options however, here are a few points to clarify the original post: Yes the chassis is second hand, was purchassed from one of the well known Landrover Parts/Breakers firms. I do not have the V5, just a non descript receipt for the chassis. The Chassis has had the drivers side engine mount removed and a new one fitted to land the 2.5D engine, other than that it's original and in good order. It does have a chassis number. I have no details of the age of the original vehicle and have no intentions of registering it as tax exempt, It was simply replaced due to the fact that the original one was bent and rotten. The bulkhead consists of only the original goal post, the sheet metal work including the footwells, transmission tunnel and protruding dash have been fabricated from scratch, from the outside it looks the same but internally it would immediately be recognised by a Landrover owner as being unoriginal. I was also given the replacement engine, which is a 2.5 NAD of which the original was the same, however I have no supporting documentation regarding the engines origin and I'm no longer in contact with the orginal owner. When I purchassed both the chassis and took on board the engine I was young and stupid with no clear path of how I was going to deal with the paperwork side of the build, the regulation changes just made a bad bit of planning even worse. The top and bottom of it is that, although I'm confident of the build quality of the vehicle, as Bowie said earlier I don't want to end up in court with prosecution arguing the case that someone was injured or worse and spin it to make it seem like the reason was that it wasn't properly registered / built / a cut and shut etc, we all know how simple things can be made to look 10 times worse in front of a jury. Again thanks all for the comments, Bowie, thanks for raising the other perspective, I'll have a look at the links and follow up. Any other point of view?

Hey all, I'm just interested in lnowing if anyone has successfully got their lightweight through an IVA. Top and bottom of it is that I have a Lighweight, I have been tinkering with it that long (7 years), that now it's finally complete and in good working order I'm now of the opinion with the changes from SVA to IVA and all the hoops you have to jump through that I have no hope of getting it back on the road. Modifications: Replacement Engine - 2.5NAD Replacement Chassis (donor from another vehicle) including change to engine mount drivers side. Remanufactured Bulkhead incorporating remanufactured dash. New suspension components. Modifications to bulkhead, includes modified dashboard. rebuilt bodywork including rear tub, seat box, externally resembles original vehicle but method of fabrication different. (the website on my signiture gives you the general idea, but is several years out of date) The above mods mean its lost its original identity and hence needs to go through a test. I've read about the first third of the test document and as far as I can tell there is no way a stock lightweight would possibly pass due to (so far)... mirrors wrong shape External projections - how can a square vehicle possibly pass? Internal projections - as above fuel tank (filled from the interior) the list goes on.... Do I carry on and attempt an IVA, or bite the bullet and scrap it? On the subject of scrapping it - how do I scrap a vehicle that is no longer the same as the log book, this seems like as big a pain as getting it through an SVA! ALTERNATIVELTY - Is a 2.0 Litre Mondeo capable and legal for towing a trailor loaded with the Landrover so I can trailer it to weekend club outings? any advice will be appreciated. Cheers, Lee

Hey all, My Exmoor trim ragtop on my Lightweight appears to be leaking on the joint that goes over the hoop nearest the windscreen. Ive had it for several years although this is the first year its been fitted and subject to the elements. Does it need any form of water proofing on it to weatherproof it? Also I find that I get quite a torrent in the rear which appears to come through the buckle straps which soak up the wet from the outside and allow it to pass into the load area, Is this normal and is there any solution? I know its unnusual to find a totaly watertight Landrover but not having my head dripped on while I drive would be a bonus! Cheers, Lee

The 2.5 manifold is larger diameter I think, to match the larger diameter exhaust off a 90/110. The manifold studs will not mate with the flange of a standard series 3 exhaust. I used the 2.25 manifold to match to 2.25 exhaust on mine. I've noticed no power problems although others have suggested it will reduce the power output substantially. Cheers, Lee

You are correct my 90switch does have 5 terminals. the problem was which is used for what. Having looked through your diagram and done a few tests iv'e determined the following: Feed - is obviously the power to the switch. IGN - should be the first click of the switch giving you your accessories etc that are inhibited during heat or start Heat - enables your glowplugs at the first spring point through to Start Start - enables the starter motor ??? (can't make out the last label)- looks to be a feed to the engine harness which i can only assume then goes to the fuel shutoff solenoid. Can anyone post a diagram of the engine side of connector 7 so i can confirm? also can anyone match up the descriptions with the numbers on the switch as the descriptions i have for the most part seem nonsensical. Cheers, Lee

Hi All, Lost my keys for the landrover, so purchased 2x ignition switches one apparently for a series 3, the other early defender. My old switch had a terminal which kept the fuel shutoff solenoid enabled from the Accessory setting all the way through to ignition, however I can't find the appropriate terminals on the replacement switches to do the same job. I have found the following appropriate terminals on each switch: Main feed from Battery Accessory - only on on first click (spring return from glow/ignition) Glowplug - on from first sprung position through to ignition ignition - final sprung position only I could do with a wiring diagram for the appropriate defender 90/110 2.5nad era so i can figure out how to keey the solenoid energised as it was originally intended if someone could point me in the right direction. Cheers, Lee

Right, I know it's been a while since i originally posted, had to keep SWMBO happy and as i'm working abrouad most weeks my weekend time is at a premium! Anways, Fabricated a doo'dah up to press down the springs (will post a picture of it for future reference when i get back home) Basically took me two hours to make out of some spare 20mm box that I'd had lying around in the garage. Works a treat. The full run down as follows: 1.Removed the glowplugs to enable me to spin the engine with the fan blades 2.Removed the injectors (the thought being to poke some wire through the holes to find TBC - but didn't have any success this method) 3.Removed the rocker assemby in one piece using a bungee cord wrapped round the two end rocker box securing threaded bars to keep it all in place 4.Fitted the bespoke, patent pending (only joking) in-situ valve spring compressor in place (which uses the second small rocker box securing bolts from each end to mount to the block. 5.compressed down the valve spring. 6.spun the engine by hand "gently" till the piston meets the valve and clicks pushing up the valve and releasing the collets. 7.spun the engine each way to fin TDC and then unwound the compressed spring and removed. 8.remove and replace the valve stem seal (note that the inlet valves use the seal with the smaller hole and the spring and the exhaust valves have a larger hole and no spring (in my kit of parts anyway - i reused the old springs on the exhaust seals, didnt think it would hurt) 9. repeat the process for the other valve on the cyclinder. 10. repeat steps 4-9 for the remaining 3 cylinders. 11. refit the rocker assembly 12. refit the glowplugs and injectors. 13. blead fuel to the injectors 14. startup engine, checking oil flows round the rocker box (hint - some oil will get thrown about) 15. refit rockerbox cover with new seal. The end result is a dramatic reduction of smoke on startup with an almost complete reduction after driving for about 5 minutes. blows out a bit on de-accelerating but nothing like it was before and i never expected a cpomplete cure - just hope it will please mr MOT. I baught a complete head gasket replacement kit but only used the repklacement items like the stem seals, bits for the injectors washers etc so you could probably just but in the individual bits although the kit wasn't that expendive. NOTE, the exhaust stem seals in the kit were terrible - one was so badly made i ended up using the best out of the old set that i'd removed. when I'l get back i'll have a look see who's kit it was. Cheers, Lee

Hey all, thanks for your replies. Les, thanks for putting me straight on the petrol engine stringy thing and the TDC advice sounds reasonable enough for a mortal like me to follow. Rick, i've removed the injectors already to clean and inspect them and replace the washers seals etc that came with the head gasket kit so no worries there, they look a bit sooty on the ends can i leave them to soak in some petrol or something? Hi log, i'm going to make up a "gizmo" that will cam off the rocker shaft bolts and hopesully compress the springs enough to get the collets out - will be a bit heath robinson but engine internals are a scary place i dont want to go! Cheers, and thanks for the replies.

Hi all, I've finally got time to look at changing my valve stem seals on a 12J 2.5nad engine. I've never had much luck splitting the head from the engine and replacing it successfully so i'm going to try this with the head in place. I've heard the string and compressed air methods of keeping the valve in place, but i've also head that with the cylinder at TDC on a diesel that the valve should only drop about 2mm anyway. Firstly, is there an easy way on this engine to determin TDC for each cylinder? Secondly, can anyone confirm the drop of only a few mm? Thirdy, if all else fails does anyone know where I can purchase an air fitting to replace the glowplug so i can hold the valve up with air? Cheers, Lee

Uploaded some pictures of the event, they're in the LR4x4 gallery (yes i know it's got the wrong month in the title.....) Appologies to everyone i missed, was happily snapping away to new memory card when both batteries went flat!! Had a good day out spectating, got thoroughly muddy and well done to everyone that took part. Cheers, Lee

does this event cater for spectators?? Cheers, Lee

If you get them from VWP, they come with 40mm pins, you can buy 35mm pins seperately which are a bit more suitable for smaller cable. I'ts also worth getting the covers that fit over the vehicle mounted half of the connectors, keeps the carp out when not in use and the handles are a nice addition on the jump leads - but a bit costy! Cheers, lee

Hey Monster, it want's to work without the key in the ignition, when (when indeed!) it does breakdown you want to be able to lock the vehicle and go for help leaving the hazards on. Cheers, Lee

That's quite injenious! I seem to have used the more unsightly method of fabricating a bracket and using a rod off the throttle shaft to pull the cable - may have to change it so it's like that. Cheers, Lee edit to add: its in the top right hand corner of the image - never liked it from the day i bent it but it does work!

Hey all, Easiest way i've found for the engine swap is to use the 2.25d drivers side engine bracket (shown in Les's 4th picture) turn it upside down and bolt/weld that to the chassis. and use the correct 2.5d engine mount (shown in Thirsty beasts 2nd picture) on the engine a standard rubber mounting inbetween fits perfectly. I've fabricated my own chassis mount on one of my landies and to be honest it wasn't worth the pain and effort getting the angles right verses spending money on a 2.5d engine mount which hadn't come with the engine. plus, like me if you haven't got access to power/welder etc you can use a long bolt through the chassis into the bracket to hold the bracket on TEMPORARILY to get you to the welders. Best Regards, Lee

Noticed that their website appears to have disappeared, just wondered if anyone on here is a member and can let me know if they are still around? Cheers, Lee

"can i just use one higher rated fuse at the fuse box, and split the power feed to the relays/switches, thus doing away with 2 x wires straight away" I assume if you're using a single relay you've upped the size of your wires? I assume that you will want one fuse feeding all four of your lamps? 4x 55w @12V = 18A, so you will no doubt end up using a 20A fuse. Bear in mind that your current carrying capacity of your cable is 17.5A. If you take 2 individual feed from the output of a single fuse to power 2 sets of lights each circuit will pull around 9.5A which is fine as the cable will accept 17.5A - However in the event of a short circuit in order to blow the fuse the current has to exceed the 20A rating of the fuse, when it does this it's already exceeded the rating of the cable prior to the fuse. Your cable has to be >= your protection. Also agree with fridge on the earthing - if you've got a carp earth you undo any of the benefits associated with sorting out your voltage drop.

Disheartening isn't it. i've been through much of what you've tried also, had the head removed, skimmed all the valve guides replaced, valve seals. Changed the piston rings and made no difference. came to the conclusion that it was the cylinder bores that were worn and needed re-boring. that was going to be too much of an expense/time consuming so I gave up on the engine and baught a 2.5nad for £400 off ebay. It hasn't had much of a run after changing it but it doesn't smoke at all. At the end of the day it's an old engine and you have to decide weather its worth carrying on or cheeper to just replace it. Let us know how you get on! Cheers, Lee

Chris, I couldn't agree more! caught a bit on the BBC news last night about Land Rover usage over there and how the servicemen hate the snatch Land Rover. It's hardly a fair state of play when their American counterparts are running round in armoured Humvees - then you see something like this where the local bobbies are gearing up for WW3, there's something not right in government thinking surely! Cheers, Lee

Hey Phil, thanks for the reply now got the part on order! Cheers, Lee

Hi All, I've fitted a 2.5D engine in my series 3. Problem is that the air manifold off the 2.5 point's the wrong way and the flexible air ducting wont reach the oil bath air cleaner. I can substitute it with the manifold off the S3 minus the flap valve but then i've got no inlet for the crank case breather. Any ideas, or alternatives for the breather? Cheers, Lee

Hi, im my experience it doesn't matter who reports the incident first. I reported an incident where an Ar*** hole drove into me whilst i was stationary in a carpark (he was looking in his glove box for something at the time!) With no witnesses, i reported it the next day, sent in the photo's of damage, drawing of the collission etc. 3 months later the other party still hadn't reported to their insurance, the to**er wanted to sort it out without going through the insurance at the scene, but with my car only being 2 months old i wasn't having any of it. Ended up with the other party eventually reported it but claimed i'd run into him!!! With no witnesses it was stalemate and ended up being a 50/50 settlement and a loss of my no claims. Witnesses are the key!! Cheers, Lee

Hi Jim, thanks for a fantasticly quick response! Thats just what i needed. Cheers, Lee

Hi All, i've purchassed the above engine but its come without mounting brackets. Since its going in my series III I think I can use my series III passenger side mount but need to purchase the long 2.5NAD mount for the injector pump side of the engine. Craddocks lists the following: NRC9557 ENGINE MOUNTING BRACKET 4 CYLINDER LH NRC5434 ENGINE MOUNTING BRACKET RH 4 CYLINDER Can anyone check the part number and let me know which mount I need, the smaller LH one seems to be £10 more then the larger RH one?? Cheers, Lee