Rob_B

LPG tanks are really save. They are tested to 30 bar (425 psi) and normal working pressure is 10 bar (145 psi) max. But when in doubt and for only £70 I would change it.

I'm just like that. And in the end things often only get done when I can't put if off any longer.

Wouldn't it be easier to put the electic motor at the back of the LT230? With some modification you can have petrol, electric or both.

255/85-16 BFG MT. 2" lift. I had to trim the wheel arches a little to keep it from rubbing (wasn't done on this picture yet).

Edit: never mind. What I wrote was posted already.

I would think that an open sensor like this would fix that problem. That way the sensor isn't in contact with the housing and should not cool down when the housing is under water.

Thanks. That is what I liked to hear.

I still haven't decides what way to go with the axles on my 76 RRC. Would it be possible to build all the internals from a 24 spline Disco axle in to the original RRC axles. Maybe swap over the stub axles and swivel housings too. Swapping the complete axles would maybe be easier, but I would like to keep the original axles housings. Thanks.

I have one of your triggerwheels installed, but not used yet. Should I count the teeth on that one too.

Yes, the brake servo can leak. And if it isn't to bad it will still work but can mess up the engine idle. Disconnect the pipe and plug it. Just be careful when you drive it like that.

To have MS use the wideband you need to make an AFR table. I don't have MS on my RRC yet, only on my mk1 Golf GTI. So can't really help with the AFR table yet. But there is some info for AFR settings for the V8 in the Tune for economy thread. If you are trying to fix a problem you shouldn't start to lean. Get it running good first and after that you could try for more economy if you want. But even wiyhout setting an AFR table or even setting up that sensor in TS you can use the dail to see what is happening when you drive. With the sensor setup in TS you can see it in the datalog files too. That way you can drive and check the log later to see if you can pinpoint the problem area.

Yes, you need the yellow wire if you use the default outputs. You can change the outputs in the software, but don't need to do that. And in Tunerstudio > Project Properties > settings: you select Innovate LC-1 default, 0-5V = 0.5-1.5 lambda

Here you have lots of pictures of the Jag. http://www.amtra-carconcepts.com/Index%20Fotogallery/fransvanengelen1.htm

I like the Jag, red MG and the P5. Those don't look like they simply stuck a different body shell on top of the chassis. Some of the others are not that much lower than a landy body. But also think you shouldn't do that to a nice car like the P5.

That is one of the easiest things to do, if there is room enough. Can't check if that is posible as I haven't owned a Defender in 10 years. Or a system like this would work. http://wolfvansecurity.com/product/deadbolt.htm