Rob_B

LPG tanks are really save. They are tested to 30 bar (425 psi) and normal working pressure is 10 bar (145 psi) max. But when in doubt and for only £70 I would change it.

I'm just like that. And in the end things often only get done when I can't put if off any longer.

Wouldn't it be easier to put the electic motor at the back of the LT230? With some modification you can have petrol, electric or both.

255/85-16 BFG MT. 2" lift. I had to trim the wheel arches a little to keep it from rubbing (wasn't done on this picture yet).

Edit: never mind. What I wrote was posted already.

I would think that an open sensor like this would fix that problem. That way the sensor isn't in contact with the housing and should not cool down when the housing is under water.

Thanks. That is what I liked to hear.

I still haven't decides what way to go with the axles on my 76 RRC. Would it be possible to build all the internals from a 24 spline Disco axle in to the original RRC axles. Maybe swap over the stub axles and swivel housings too. Swapping the complete axles would maybe be easier, but I would like to keep the original axles housings. Thanks.

I have one of your triggerwheels installed, but not used yet. Should I count the teeth on that one too.

Yes, the brake servo can leak. And if it isn't to bad it will still work but can mess up the engine idle. Disconnect the pipe and plug it. Just be careful when you drive it like that.

To have MS use the wideband you need to make an AFR table. I don't have MS on my RRC yet, only on my mk1 Golf GTI. So can't really help with the AFR table yet. But there is some info for AFR settings for the V8 in the Tune for economy thread. If you are trying to fix a problem you shouldn't start to lean. Get it running good first and after that you could try for more economy if you want. But even wiyhout setting an AFR table or even setting up that sensor in TS you can use the dail to see what is happening when you drive. With the sensor setup in TS you can see it in the datalog files too. That way you can drive and check the log later to see if you can pinpoint the problem area.

Yes, you need the yellow wire if you use the default outputs. You can change the outputs in the software, but don't need to do that. And in Tunerstudio > Project Properties > settings: you select Innovate LC-1 default, 0-5V = 0.5-1.5 lambda

Here you have lots of pictures of the Jag. http://www.amtra-carconcepts.com/Index%20Fotogallery/fransvanengelen1.htm

I like the Jag, red MG and the P5. Those don't look like they simply stuck a different body shell on top of the chassis. Some of the others are not that much lower than a landy body. But also think you shouldn't do that to a nice car like the P5.

That is one of the easiest things to do, if there is room enough. Can't check if that is posible as I haven't owned a Defender in 10 years. Or a system like this would work. http://wolfvansecurity.com/product/deadbolt.htm

I have 2" spacers on the rear of my RRC. I needed to lift the rear after I got the 100 ltr LPG tank. Just like many of the others, I liked the ride just needed a little more height.

That is because it is a Fiat 600 multipla

Thanks, Bowie. That is the confirmation I needen regarding the oil in the heads. And the others thanks for your replies too. I'm ashamed to say the tappets came in a blue box. I wanted to keep it cheap for my offroader and too the gamble. It doesn't make the noise all the time so I'm not sure if it is the tappet or some how the oil pressure. I will fix the pressure gauge on the dash asap. That way I can keep an eye on the pressure when I hear it again. I'm running on carbs at the moment, but have all most all the parts needed to swap to EFI (megasquirt) When I have the the intake manifold off again I will have a look inside again.

I have always used 20w50. Don't think any thicker would help and maybe cause other problems. The pressure gauge was from my work and that one is checked every year. Screwed it in the hole where the pressure switch goes for the idiot light. (the gauge on the dash doesn't work) I think they are in the right angle. I didn't take the shafts apart. Took them off as a complete assembly.

I need a little help to diagnose this problem. Last month I changed the camshaft and all tappets on my V8. The old one was worn badly and so were the old tappets. Changed the timing chain and both gears too. The old tappets looked like this: After that it felt like a different engine. Runs smooth and likes to rev a lot better. But now I hear a tappet ticking while driving. It started doing this the last few day but not all the time. And yesterday it did it all day. Today I checked the oil pressure. With the oil warmed up I get 2 bar at idle and 3 bar or more when I rev it higher. (29psi idle - 43psi higher revs) That looks fine to me. Next I checked if I had oil getting to the rockers. When I run the engine without valve cover I see oil flowing, but only very little. I have no idea what is normal for the V8. I made 2 videos of this that may help. The first is at idle, the second is at around 1300 rpm. You can see a little oil, but is it normal for the V8 that there is just this little oil there. I have see modern engine mess up the engine bay in no time when run without oil filler cap. @idle @1300rpmAnd I could use some suggestions to find out what tappet is making this noise. Thanks. Rob.

Looks like a Beetle front axle on the one in the first post. I do like the looks of the one in the 3rd post.

I did mine last week. 3.5 with 3.9 cam and a gear like in this picture. The key should be at 9 o'clock and the timing mark at 6 o'clock (in the pic it is at 12 o'clock)

I like the idea. My friend is going to scrap a Disco and the dash in my RRC isn't complete and a big mess at the moment.

Looks like it is possible. http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=41433

How much difference does it make if this is a v2.2 or v3 board? Just ask this as the OP doesn't say what board it is. May be some thing he should check.