muddy

Thomas, Belle, Gehl, Mustang? It certainly doesn't look like a bobcat. Im sure you are aware but plan/test your quick attach conversion carefully they can play havoc with the crowd geometry.

Scrap TD5 disco for around £500, standalone loom and de imobilised mapped ECU £400 ish, not sure what fuel tank you have for the pump? Just a thought...

I'm just over the border near Skipton but my vans cover the middle belt of the country, I also usually end up buying or selling stuff at Clitheroe auction but regardless its worth a special visit to Moores, its got everything! there's also this guy at Unit A 50 Frank Street ( next to Stor-it ) Preston Lancashire PR1 1PB Who has more clothing, boots, hand cleaners, PPE etc than ive ever seen in my life, worth going to see with a few pound notes...

Go to William Moore and son in Preston next door to the prison, be warned though, it's difficult to exit without spending money.

There were both hard and soft dash LSE’s

Tried a few never really found them that good, the quality of standard ends does vary as does the sealing capability if muck and paint gets in around the internal tabs. I just use the standard Milwaukee one on mine and when it won’t seal I swap the nipple for a new one and lo and behold that was the issue….

Its looking like I will have some time to kill during the day tomorrow and Saturday around the barnstaple area, the council website has a map of local green lanes I might look at weather dependent but is there anything else worth a look? Museums, junk shops, tractor places or tool shops etc?

@Gazzar I had my friend plasma them out for me on his cnc I think they are 10 or 12 it will have been handy on his machine. I then welded them on (poorly, outside in the rain ) over the ends of the floor crossmembers so they have vertical welds aswell.

you may well find that they have used some spigot rings to pit the P38 wheels but the ring has stuck on the hub, if that's the case they just pry off.

I can say that some couriers optimise delivery routes to fill a certain amount of time so that the drivers 'earn' the day rate. Hence if you stand on the main road in this town all day you will watch the same vans drive past you multiple times, and drivers even share their dispare with me when they have both (or even three) turned up to the very same address at the same time with multiple small parcels from the same sender/consignment.

At work we use DPD to send out around 100 parcels a day, over 99% of these do make it and in our experience they are the least worst especially as we are a perishable account. All couriers are battling with one another and I think a collapse is on the cards from one or two, many have now withdrawn the expensive hand held computers and are making drivers use an app on their phones. DHL coming into us are very good, however we have had countless nightmare story’s from suppliers who use them, one of wich was basically put out of business by them not collecting when they should have. It’s an absolute minefield is all I can say.

You can't go far wrong with an Ifor, they are rough and rattle like hell but they hold their money and will stand a lot of abuse.After some kind of wiring work nearly everyone you buy will want brakes and cables, probably a hitch damper and possibly some spring eye bushings none of which is a big job.Brand new wheels and 195 tyres are around £75 each its not worth refurbing old wheels. You can fit a 110 on a 12' but you wouldn't want to be doing much motorway work. I have had 12, 14 and 16' and I am looking to go 18' for the next one but probably a Brian James cargo as the tilt would be useful for me with my vans and you can have 12" wheels but I think ill keep the ifor for the dirty work. Going to tri-axle will cost you 110kgs of payload but they do ride nicer IMHO (current trailer is a 16' tri axle) One thing that's rubbish with ifors is lashing points, if you have sides you need the points in the floor otherwise you are trying to put straps under the sides or over the sides and bending them. These can be retrofitted but it's a pain of a job cutting a square hole and then welding the spreader plate on underneath. On this one I had some plates plasma cut and welded them on as I was refurbing it. I tend to carry a mixture of vehicles and more agricultural equipment or pointy bits of steel that put localised pressure on the floor and I think the ifor suits this, the Brian James, Bateson and tilting ifors are lovely looking trailers and are much better for vehicles but they arnt quite as robust in the bed IMHO. One of its more sensible loads. Edit: general rule of thumb with an ifor, put the handbrake on after moving the trailer forwards a couple of feet if the lever goes over 45 degrees the brakes need adjusting, there are slots in the backplates to check the shoes.

Dead drive usually refers to the PTO so if you are mowing/foraging/muck spreading etc and you want to change gear then when you put the clutch in to change gear the pto also stops. Live drive uses a twin plate clutch with a separate pto driveshaft turning inside a hollow primary shaft right through the gear box. PTO in/out is selected at the rear in the 'back end' This is a DB but they are all very similar.

Yes that's correct, you can get different flails to change between cutting and mulching and also add or remove flails to alter the chop length on some. Bear in mind that many flails need to run at 1000 shaft and also due to their ability to cut better over a traditional rotary topper they often get used on rough terrain and the rotor can suffer damage and vibrate as a consequence. There is a company that will straighten/balence rotors if needs be. As such it's a good idea to test flail toppers before paying good money. I have a triple gang pto cylinder mower but it doesn't do well with long grass. @Anderzander you can get a fixed drawbar and PTO for the series 1

I would also argue the damper was upside down, unless it was work experience week I have never seen factory fitted dampers that way up.

They are only fit for the toy town tip trailers IMHO, a (foolish) friend of mine straightened his pulling out of an uphill junction with his digger and trailer on a D4. Breakaway cables should never be looped around the ball or attached to the pin on a combination unit, DVSA round here were fining for this at roadside checks a few years ago. I won't open the can of worms that is general horse transport maintenance but the auto reverse brakes struggle in reverse at the best of times never mind with a decent load in them, I have had many exciting moments unloading brand new ifors backwards down loading docks.

That is a very smart 110, almost too smart to use! Number one I would be fitting a tracker. 235/85 ET0 steel wheels would be a sensible option I think if you are planning on doing considerable mileage outside of Europe. Im not really a fan on BFG AT I think they are far too hard and on road grip is seriously compromised as a consequence. Tyre choice is a HUGE subject but I would think something like a KM3/falken wild peak/Toyo open country MT are all fairly mild well behaved mud terrains. If the isolater in the passenger footwell takes a plastic key I would upgrade this as soon as possible these have a nasty habit of failing. Durite do a range of replacements.

Very basic beasts, as said above you really want live drive. The terrain, height restrictions and jobs you would like to do will help to narrow down your choice. Massey 135, Fordson dexta, David brown 990 ( abit more modern and sometimes DB hydraulics can be finicky but they are a good tractor), nuffields etc etc. Buy a copy of classic tractor and have a browse. The big money items are tyres, rims and tinwork everything else is pretty cheap. Agriline is the tractor version of britpart but its pretty much all useable and for something that only does 15-20mph and sees infrequent use is fine. will be selling my super dexta in a few months when I get the new engine rebuilt this will be around the 3-4k mark I think if that helps you with pricing.

LOL! Sounds extremely narrow!

I have been using one of these for about 8 years. Autosmart also sell them and the brake cleaner at a good price I have found.

Another vote for the 4.4 TDV8 here, I love mine when I can prise it off the mrs.

I don't think a 90 tank is small enough to allow a winch to slide in between although im not familiar with the mile marker dimensions. I would potentially be looking at mounting the winch in the load bay around the A frame cross member and use a false floor to run the rope through exiting above the rear Xmember and allowing some storage for ground anchor pins etc etc.

How about some scaffolding and a pair of wagon curtains, sturdier possibly cheaper and most importantly far more scope for personal injury!

Could you make a small brass 'cup' or mould that you could hold against the edge of the ally whilst filling with the welder to put some more meat into the area around the bolt head and thus use a standard countersink?

Nothing much to add other than to warm around the collar with bottles/blowtorch to soften any loctite that may be on there. I would probably crack the main collar and take the whole thing to a hydraulics place. Most seals can be gotten online from the likes of Kramp etc if you do want to have a go yourself.