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I had this recently with a friends D2, I believe it was the air bleed valve in the filter head, I could start it on easy start and it would run and drive fine once running but as soon as you stopped it it wouldn't re start. using easy start or similar sparingly direct into the intake is a very quick and easy way to see if everything mechanical is in the right place.

I drilled the rivets out on mine as they had come loose and were not clamping the o ring, replaced with A2 button heads and nylocs.

Thanks chaps, bit the bullet and tried some Haix AirPower turbo EFI max traction synchromesh jobbies. I somehow get the feeling I may well be testing the 2 year warranty but who knows. Very good advice Bish and I did at one point have 3 pairs of CAT boots on the go so they could dry out but the buggers still dropped in bits 🙃 Will.

Apologies if this is OT mods please feel free to delete and tell me off! I am looking for a new pair of boots with a side zip preferably 8" tall and with a composite toe. I have tried the CAT premier 8 boots and I liked them but I did 5 pairs in two years. I then got some redwing 3222 that have lasted me a good 18 months but one of the zips has failed and they are starting to break apart. Unfortunately I can no longer find these in a size 13. Looking here I am tempted by a pair of the best seller jallates but they seem a little cheap? Im not adverse to spending the dosh along as they are good! I wear them 7 days a week usually 14-18 hours a day so taking 10 hours to dry out is not really an option.... So if anyone has any real world experiences/suggestions i'm all ears.... Thanks!

Air filter is too restrictive, take the pipe off the turbo intake and take it for a quick run making sure there's no debris in the engine bay before you start.

I bought some cheap in ear bluetooth headphones for about £15 off amazon over two years ago and the only thing I can fault is I broke the top off the case and grinding dust/swarf sometimes sticks to the magnets that hold them in the case and stop them charging. They have the little rubber bobbles on and seem to stay in very well. I know its not exactly what your looking for but for the price I really can't complain.

That would be my personal route, landrover gearboxs seem to have a bad rep but you do actually have to try a little bit to kill them unlike the diffs/shafts. Biggest drawback of the LT77 is perhaps a weak reverse often caused by over enthusiastic reverse light switch adjustment causing poor mesh.

I'm biased as I do prefer manuals but if you make an adaptor for a short LT77 assuming you have one in stock you know you can always upgrade it to a stumpy R380 as a bolt in exercise should you feel the need.

I bought some like the ones you linked to, none of them worked, however these have been going well for a few years. I can pick up a power source and snake them through the dash on my vans for phone charging. @simonr that powerpack looks like another spanner vaporiser if ever I saw one!

You cannot bolt a V8 bell housing to your box that would work straight away as the V8 engine pattern only come in 'long' flavour and you have a 'short' box. You could chop some length out of a long one but the easiest and best way is to use an adaptor that bolts to the engine and has the 'short' diesel bolt pattern. these come up for about £50 usually. you will more than likely also need a spigot bush adaptor but this is nothing to a man of your abilities, the clutch would be a mix of standard LR parts. Personally I feel that engine choice in your case should be primarily driven by packaging constraints first and foremost. I also think that a breathed on 200 will be more than enough for Sid bar the extended rev range but that's a whole other internet bun fight!

If you can find some old rollers from a mangle these are excellent for moving stuff, 6" round fence posts are pretty good for winching/rolling stuff up ramps on to flat trailers as they take up surface imperfections better. Take a look at twin stick garage on YouTube he had a gantry made for him and one end has an overhang so you could lift a gearbox out say and transfer straight sideways onto a pallet/trailer/picup etc weight dependent obviously. How about a threaded hole about M24 near each wheel so you could wind a bolt down the the floor to make it static and or level it up I have a very hi lift trolly jack that has these.

Does the big Mog nut just hold the half shaft into the hub and set the wheel bearing preload? could you make the threaded part off the nut of a heavy duty drive flange? Cound you drill down half and half between the hubs and pin it? What about the 1 ton rim copies would these be an off the shelf solution for wider wheels? Will.

they are quite often a fine thread more like 12. 1.25, a good wire brush and then a hacksaw blade in your fingers to clean the base of the threads can often work wonders, put back on with plenty of coppaslip/grease and you are good. if you are in a pinch you could always drill through the flat on the nut and put a split pin in. Edit: if Paul has looked at the part no. listen to him not me!

Facebook marketplace is the place for them, Tubela are a good bender as are Staffa and HPC I think they were.

Anything like these? Military roll bar or seatbelt mount

A plan thatcham branch have been very good to deal with for insurance for us, very helpful. Perhaps looking somewhere like piston heads or if goodwood have a magazine or sponsors?

I’ve been having a tidy up this afternoon and dug these out, I currently use the middle Parkinson no.8 with a 5” jaw but have previously broken the other one (replacment chin behind) I’m wondering whether the record would be any better? for you vice pervs are any worth more than the others/ too good to use properly? Also the Record jaws have an almost double thickness bolt head is this a record thing? Can replacements be bought or is it easier to make some? Will.

Buy a 3500 gross trailer. you soon get there whatever you are carrying.

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Quite the opposite in terms of progress! Some of the comments just made me think some more testing would be worthwhile before spending hours fabricating!

Did you actually knock a tyre off the bead? I run 900x16 tractor tubes in basically a 750 so they don't stretch as much and wear on the ribs on the inside of a tubeless tyre, remember to talc generously when fitting them. you could always put the wheels in the lathe and knurl the bead. Fitting/losing the spare wheel could be a useful weight distribution tool. if you're not fitting it (and the tools to change it!) then chuck a tin of easy start and a lighter or two in so you can pop a tyre back on should you need to. I would sort the front steering bar, get your axle weights, chuck some cheap appropriate springs on, get that 200 wound balls out, make sure the oil and water stays in and has the appropriate warning systems working and go do some more testing/playing. This thread is starting to come over abit willwarne! just my 2p.

Only the Auto ECU is looking for extra signals I believe, the disco ECU can be configured to run a defender.

Ah I missed the LT77 bit! In that case yes you will need to move the transfer box forwards in turn needing a new transmission tunnel, floor plates and seatbox/bulhead flange. You can run and external 044style pump or get a td5 tank and pump assembly.

You will need a TD5 flywheel clutch etc and then use the discovery td5 R380 with a selector shaft adaptor and the existing 110 gear sticks. Weld the chassis engine mounts onto your chassis and then the discovery radiator and pipework should all match up. You will either need to make your own loom from the discovery one or buy a ready made stand alone loom, you will also need a different ECU if you are not using the auto, whatever ECU you use either needs to be de-immobilised or you need an emulator in the loom. You can also buy a shortened bell housing and engine mounts on eBay to use your existing 300 gearbox and chassis mounts if you wish. In truth it may be more cost effective to sell the engine and box you have now and buy a complete manual setup unless that is the engine you have now is particularly good or you have fitted many new parts to it. Will.

Fit one of nicks fuel pins and the dynamic spacer also if you wish, remove the max fuel screw, knock the safety collar off and chase the threads before re fitting a turn or two further in. Get a waste gate valve and set it to 20-25 psi measured at the inlet manifold it will be night and day. I also wire a buzzer into the oil pressure circuit, easy to miss a little red light...