Coolerking

Now i thought my 95 disco was green, but the paint code 575 reads as avalon blue my eyes must be bad

Dont worry I'm done with it.

What we were actually talking about was the best method for the original poster to bleed his brakes, not a history of the 'you wanna do it this way brigade' I and many others it seems agree that pressure bleeding will be the best chance of a solution to the issue. Point 1. Miscibility regarding liquids is not relevant as we are only using one type ' automotive hydraulic fluid (liquid as fluids are also gases). As you 'must' know air and brake liquid are imiscible hence the need to bleed ! Point 2. Aircraft hydraulic lines are nothing like 1/2 inch in thickness but as you are a car 'Mechanic' and I am an aircraft 'Engineer' I will forgive this minor lack of knowledge. And you would not find a 50m long run of pipe as the problem of maintaining a laminar flow becomes more difficult to control over longer runs of stainless steel pipe as used on aircraft, as a more turbulent flow will tend to release the entrained air (caused by the liquid and air being imiscible) giving a less sensitive output force. Point 3. The big picture. The big picture is that he has tried to bleed the old way using a number of bleed cycles, so maybe he should use the single cycle method of pressure bleeding ! Yes you will probably get a laminar flow but its more consistent when applying a force to the fluid reducing the chance of air remaining. as that pressure will be felt equal at right angles and without loss throughout the system. Now if the 2 split pipes were the same length then you may not encounter any problems, indeed you may not encounter problems full stop, due to the, as you say, small scale hydraulic system we are dealing with. However liquid will always take the easiest route out ! Now as a spend most of my time explaining Brahms and Pascals to future engineers I really don't want to get in to a Fluid power/dynamics lesson as you seem to want to, I try to explain in simple terms, but theres always a smart alec isn't there ? I can sit and quote theories and mathmatical terms all day but it wont help the chap bleed his brakes now will it ? Use the Eezi bleed mate it works, and i did it at 20 psi from my spare tyre as the instructions on the box tell you to. Cracked each bleed nipple once and top job, took 15 mins. Sorry to the other readers for this boring post that is of no real help.

What's the fluid properties got to do with it ? I teach fliud power (hydraulics) to aircraft engineers and i can assure you that in a split system there is no way other than luck you will dispell all the air without simultaneous bleeding. It may appear to be air free but aeration ( tiny particles of air suspended in the fluid) will not be removed. This will eventually manifest itself as 'sponginess' or slow operation to give it its technical term. keeping the fluid under a constant pressure is the only way to ensure complete de-aeration. And even this is not fool proof.

You must elaborate on this one ........... behind the unit or the wheel ? How does it work ? Cant be an Aprils fool as its the 2nd. Cheers (if it works i owe you a beer)

Just done mine after changing all four rigid pipes to the calipers for MOT. I bleed using a pressure bleed kit eezi bleed)about £15 to buy and I've used it dozens of times and it never fails, uses the pressure from your spare wheel to force the fluid through. Problem with the 2 man bleed is where the brake pipe splits at the rear as you bleed one caliper you drag air back in from the other pipe that has not been bled yet ....... does that make sense ? You cant fail with an eezi bleed kit as all the pipes are pressurised. If its still spongy after that then you have a leak some where or air can get trapped in the servos, but again pressure bleeding will push this out.

Had the same thing, changed the bearing on the tensioner and it went ........ and came back. Changed the belt it went .........and came back. Changed the water pump and it went for good........ as did the P gasket aaaarrgh. Well changed the P gasket and guess what .......... the squeals back. Sure its the tensioner again.

First of all I'd like to say hello to my fellow disco owners, I have had my 95 300tdi auto for about 2 years now, bought it as a mobile skip when I was doing the house up but I have grown to love it and am keeping it.......... So to the point, had to weld the rear floor pan back on so dropped the tank for access etc. Put it all back together and the fuel gauge now seems to move about a lot more than it used to whilst driving (corners , hills ). I had to put a good splash of juice in initially as the float seemed to be stuck, once 3/4 full it read fine, but it seems to move above and below the level quite a bit, maybe it was doing it before and I'm just noticing it more now or have i dropped the sender and float back in wrong can this happen ?? Thanks in advance Mark T (very new to the landy world !)