neiltd590

thanks, all sorted now, cheers

hi, i cant find a ' other' section so looking for help here how to set up the computer to display all the messages in the thread, i just get the first entry and then a list of titles that have to be clicked individualy. have to resort to the lo fi version- i have not had this on other IP Board powered forums, do i need to change some settings?? any help appreciated.

worth checking hoses on front of engine, my wifes car had a hose almost rubbed through by the cross head screw under it, also turbo hose was leaking.

i recently replaced a couple of bleed nipples on my td5 90, lockheed calipers, cant remember if vented or not. - i took them to local factors to get replacements- they said they were a 10mm metric, what they gave me fitted perfectly. incidently the spanner size to undo was 11mm if that helps. why not clamp the hose and take one out then take it to factors just to be sure youve got the right one? cheers

my td5 90 came with different keys for doors and ignition. i thought that was normal. barrel kits for the doors are quite cheap and were easy to fit (i had one lock damaged -attempted breakin)

what flavour of landrover is it? td5/ 300tdi/ 200?

border landrovers in earlston- independant garage, and were very helpful when i popped in for advice. what sort of problem are you having with your landrover?

i didn't know that- i always thought pumpped until clean grease came ot of each seal on UJ/ slider.- have been doing that past 7yrs ive had the td5 90.

i think if the fliud is also coming out around the threads then air will leak back into the system once your foot is off the brake pedal -if using a one way valve. with gravity method or pressure bleeding it shouldn't matter if leaks around thread. is there a different way to bleed the master cylinder- but youve probably done this after replacing seals.

how about gravity bleeding- attached tubes to all nipples-into jam jars, open the nipples and have a cup of tea whilst occasionally topping up reservoir, and tapping the calipers, took me about 1 hr last week to flush through and requires only one person and no special kit- the reservoir is so much higher than the nipples that there is a good head of pressure. your problem sounds more like a master cylinder seal tho.

i checked my 4 stud pas box- adwest - bleed nipple is a 10mm standard metric one, i bought some recently for my brake calipers i checked and they fit - they were about 90p each from a local factors.

i had a diesel leak on my td5- was the fuel connector block - check lt hand side back of engine, easiest if you take off engine acoustic covers, apparently they are prone to leaks- if this is it you need to replace the connecting block and gasket- approx £100 part.

i have been giving my defender TD5 some TLC and noticed abrasion of the hose from the expansion tank, where it rubs on an electrical block connector on the bulkhead. it was almost through the pipe. prob will happen to others as seems design flaw. also check near back of engine as mine had also rubbed on pipe fixing- looked like it had not been re-fixed properly after fuel connector replacement. also found oil in loom from injector harness- W yr 2000 YA serial. thanks

i had this when used non genuine belt- the genuine conti tech belt seems to have a textured back surface and was a lot better than a gates or britpart ones, i just lubricated the pulley bearings and cleaned all the pulley grooves including crankshaft one, also i replaced the tensioner as was a bit stiff on the spring, the belt is now quieter than ever in past. ps do not use belt dressing- i tried this and it seized my vac pump bearing

returning to the question- td5 oil- recommended oil is 5/30- 5/40w- service intervals are 12k and LR originally recommended Mobil 1 synthetic.- this is what they used to use at the dealers when i used to take it to them. now i do my own services i have used 0/30w (silver hook), 5/40w (halfords/mobil 1, and now 5/30w (unipart synthetic big tub) all synthetic. they is a lot of info re oils on internet - alot of which i dont understand but i think a lot of HGV now use longlife oil lasting 20,000+ miles and some fleets do oil tests to see if new oil is needed. using an expensive oil and dumping it at 5000 miles would be a false economy. but depends on your driving, load , towing etc i think. but a decent synthetic should last til the 12k service interval.