Gren_T

Thanks for the Info chaps, It was Ian's build thread I was looking for as I had seen the cooler setup on there, nice job your doing on the build. I was looking for pipes that follow the chassis rails, but I'll buy a set of disco pipes and see how they look. cheers.👍

Hi Chaps, I am replacing the gearbox oil cooler on my 300Tdi Auto 90, when I built it 10 yrs ago I had the box to cooler pipes custom made with fittings for a temp sender & the cooler mounted to the support bars. However I've had a new disco cooler (esr2008) knocking about and using this oil cooler will allow me to remove the support bars to fit a larger intercooler. Can anyone tell me if I can use the Discovery oil cooler pipes for a factory looking fit or would using the 50th anniversary cooler pipes be preferable. thanks in advance.

Hi Matt, With the NAS step there should be an insert for the chassis comprising of 2 pipes welded to a piece of plate, theses are the anti crush tubes, these are to stop the bolts causing the issues you have. check to see if the anti crush tubes are still there, possible the bolts have been removed and the tubes have dropped. you wont be able to remove the crossmember, however you may be able to put a drift in from the rear and tap the face flat Crush tubes.: Regards Gren.

Hi thanks for the reply, I was aware the seal is reversed - unlike the person who fitted the last one.😖

Hi chaps, I'm in the middle of a rebuild on a 300tdi, however I need some help with sourcing some parts. The front cover crank oil seal was the original cortico type seal p/n:ERR4575, is there any benefit in fitting the later type seal p/n:ERR7143. Does the later type seal replace the oil thrower on the back of the crank damper.? I am also looking for a part number or supplier for the brass "T" piece on the turbo that connects the wastegate & injection pump diaphragm housing. this is not shown as a separate part in the parts manuals. Cheers.

many thanks for that, Jaca is our 1st stop off the boat I'll add it to my route. Cheers

I'd not go with the raptor - I've found it chips easily on corners, on a chassis this will allow water behind it and it will creep under the rest of the coating and it will peel off in small sheets. If you dont like the galv look paint the chassis with T wash to get a key then use black chassis paint - "the paint man" does a good quality chassis paint If you really want to use a coating you can get the chassis plastic coated - I've done this on bumpers and wheel carriers, it's very durable but more suited to a show or road vehicle and will eventually get damaged off road or from stone chips. However you could go the Line-x bedliner route this is far superior to raptor and far more durable but is also much more expensive than raptor. Just my 2c based on experience. Regards Gren

Thanks for the reply I'll do that.

Hi all, im off to the pyrenees end of august and looking for route info around the western side, I’ve lots of routes mid /androra to med but there seems to be a lack on the Atlantic side. any recommendations for camp sites or things to see ? cheers

Hi All, Does anyone know of a supplier of a flat defender fibreglass bonnet, all the suppliers I've found only sell the puma style Cheers.

Great thread HoSS. you have a very impressive & eclectic skill set. Many thanks for your time regards all Gren

Hi Keith, On my 90 I run 235x85x16MT's its a 1.22 trans box and have run it for the last 6yrs & 65k mostly motorway and "A" road miles, it pulls fine & top gear is at 52mph, she will cruise at 65-70 easily and only drops on long climbs. 65mph is around 3k rpm it will rev to 4k when kicked down but its more noise than go. The biggest bugbear Is that at 50mph its in the upper rpm band of 3rd - I've found thats the speed most of the "A" road traffic moves at, also on the motorway for my longer trips I cant tailgate the trucks to save fuel as the box swaps between 3rd&4th. However the above aside it's not bothered me enough to change the transfer box, I have a 1.4 to swap in but never got around to it. regards Gren

I'd have a good look at the brakes, pads out one at a time and have someone depress the brake while you watch the pistons come out make sure they come out smooth and even. Dont let the piston pop out.! Clean the pistons off and coat with brake grease and push them back in with the blead nipple open, do this for all 4 calipers and then replace the fluid and re blead. Also have a good look at the pipes for kinks or damage that would restrict the fluid & have a look at the flexi pipes for cracking & swelling under pressure. I had the same fault on my 90, with a very light touch on the wheel under gentle constant braking there was no pull to either side, however stomp the peddle and it would pull hard, the fault was due to a sticky piston solved by following above. regards Gren

Hi Ian, I used Numax CVX 85aH for about 4 years bought from Tynya - or something like that. Excellent batteries, mine were used in a split charge with winch on starter battery and secondary battery supplying radio and aux power plugs and Engle fridge when we are camping If you are going to install the split charge buy and install 2 new batteries, dont buy a new 2nd battery and add it to an old starter battery. There are lots of theads on the web as why this is a bad idea. regards all Gren

Hi, Unfit seeing as your new to Lr's and new to this vehicle it would be a good idea to have a look at the major service items and go through them yourself e.g. renew all oils replace air, fuel & Oil filters then make a note on them when they were replaced, one thing to note is the sedementor in the fuel line this sits on the chassis by the rear wheel and is the 1st filter from the fuel tank, its job is to catch heavier particles and water. If this is fitted include it in your 1st service, then your good for a couple of years unless you get bad fuel. It will probably be filled with black jelly, there is a plastic drain tap on the bottom- this often snaps off, before stripping the sedementor get a seal kit for it, its only 3 "O" rings. The service checks are use dependant, if the vehicle has an easy life then the service intervals can be stretched out however I would change and replace air, oil and fuel filters every 6months along with an engine oil change. do this with a quick check over the underside & regrease the prop UJ's do that twice a year - thats not bad. The parts will be about £15 your choice of oil extra. If you replace the gearbox, transfer box, and axle oils now then you will know its been done. and will be good for a year or two unless you get a leak. swivel housing - early 90's had oil in the swivels, evidenced by leaks down the swivel housing later ones should have grease in for life and is replaced after work on the swivel housing. You will get used to parking and looking for drips and leaks on the road/drive seeing new ones will prompt you to slide under it for an hour on the weekend. Regards all Gren

Ah the Haynes book of lies.. get yourself a proper LR workshop manual it really is worth the money as is the parts book. why the parts book?? when you followed the HBoL and got something off and then it says "reassembly is the reverse of steps to 1-50" the parts manual shows you how and the order the parts go back together to form an assembly, and when you need bits you can get the right parts 1st time by giving the part # welcome to the world of scarred hands, a smell of EP90 on every item of clothing you own. however you will be welcomed everywhere, no-one cuts you up on the road & come winter or when their car fails to start you will be everyone's mate. regards all Gren

HI Chaps thanks for the prompt reply's, I used Genuine original parts and seals when I rebuilt it and had the turbo rebuilt at the same time, however I have no idea of the block's actual mileage the cylinders were lipped and #4 has a mark in the bore I honed the bores and the head & block were decked and pressure tested, its been a great engine in the past and has worked hard pushing an auto around. The oil in the intercooler is from the breather as there is a trail of oil in the intake side, the heater plugs are good its never needed the heater plugs to start previously always bang on the button. It's just I'm looking at close £400 for injectors to be refurbished as 3 were opening at well below 200Bar and #3 had blocked nozzle if you add in the same again for a replacement head if its cracked then having to pull the engine to do the rear seal, it makes more sense to bin it and go with a "fresh" motor Just sods law the weather is **** and next week looks to be an Icy one not good when the 70mile commute is now on 2 wheels. Looking about I've found 4 "new" injectors on Ebay for £165 so may pop for the cheap option of fit them and run it til the summer or until it goes clang. Cheers Chaps Gren

Hi All, I've had problems starting the 90 in the mornings for the last few weeks acompanied by lots of white diesel smeling smoke, but it starts on the button & clean -ish when warm. I pulled the injectors this evening and found one had quite a bit of rust on the lower 1/2" or so of the injector. The Engine is a 300TDI I rebuilt 5yrs & 50k miles ago, however recently the rear crank seal has started leaking and it is breathing heavily evidenced by lots of oil in the intercooler and asociated pipes so will need to be pulled anyway. A quote for refurb injectors is basically £400 not really worth it on a worn engine, so a seach of ebay has found an engine builder based in bristol, anyone bought from him or have experience? listing :http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/252218871821?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT or if anyone has other recomendations I'd apreaciate them. Cheers Gren

Hi its been said above, the issues will be with the HT side. The steam will find any HT bleed spots, I had my 90 V8 over the bonnet a few times with only very minor misfiring after. Check the fitment of the HT lead boots on the plugs and on the dizzy they should come off with a nice pop, with the standard dizzy you will find a small hole in the base before i swapped to a mallory I made a foam collar to cover the hole but still allow high pressure to escape. Use plug lead separators - they not only keep things neat they help prevent HT bleed. make sure your plugs are good, no cracking or tracking lines in the porcelain. I also used a rubber dizzy cap and rubber coil cover but removed them as they were causing condensation issues. In the end I had swapped out the dizzy & coil for mallory items only to get the benefits on LPG but the standard items can be tweeked to survive water. have fun. Gren

Great Idea, i've been looking at the 303 to convert to a camper myself, I'd love to see how the enginge conversion works out. I'll be watching with interest regards Gren

I've used gear hinges for similar applications & worked very well. http://www.hafele.co.uk/shop/p/continuous-geared-hinges/full-mortice-continuous-geared-hinge/41637/6855 regards Gren

arse..beaten to the punch..

Hi Rod, check the filter gauze on the fuel inlet to the pump. regards Gren

Hi chaps, phone ADAC..! they will put you onto an English speaking rep who will take your details over the phone and then send you a confirmation letter. Oh and you'll get a quarterly mag.. in German - ah well ideal opportunity to learn take a look at what you get for for your money, will the AA send you home in their own emergency airplane if your injured on hols? regards Gren

Hi Matt, I had the same thing. spent ages greasing & swapping out anti rattle springs for the earlier pads & "W" shaped springs, they still rattled but only at very slow speed. I solved it finally by replacing the cheaper mintex pads for ferrodo pads with the composite anti-rattle pad stuck to the back of the brake pads. its been silent since regards Gren