Disco1tdi

Or... if you can find a cheap one or are not precious about an exisiting 32mm spanner, just grind it thinner. It's not pretty, but is effective. (Double check the nut dimension first).

Based on my '97 300tdi 90, I believe that the front pipe is expecting to see ESR4526 as the next part of the exhaust system. It has the flared flange that matches your part. If it's of added help, my rear exhaust is ESR4527. These both seem to be listed as 97-98, so it's possible that yours is early 97?

Road dirt will sort out the shininess soon enough. I think I recall painting mine before they went on. Having banana'd a standard defender track rod, yes, they are much, much stronger. Both thicker and solid bar. With absolutely no vested interest, I'd highly recommend Gwyn Lewis. All the bits I've had from him/them have been well made, and they're decent people to deal with.

A Britpart water pump is probably the best example of something I've bought from them, which was utter garbage. The bearing failed in very few miles. Admittedly, as I wasn't doing an high mileage, this was after 14 months, so I had no come back. If you cost in fitting the parts twice, and the added stress of unreliability, why not spend a little more to not buy Britpart?

The postage might be a little pricey.... but Gwyn Lewis' Sumo Bars are sturdy, to say the least:- https://gwynlewis4x4.co.uk/sumobars/

I was going to mention Gwyn Lewis, but then wasn't too sure where the OP was based?

http://optimate.co.uk/accumate.htm I've used one of these for years.. It keeps going on bike batteries and 110Ah car batteries alike. Not the cheapest, but a solid product.

I've used "Slime" on a Merc ML, successfully. It can be sourced from various online retailers and Halfords.

It could be argued that to buy a 10yr newer 90 to get two vents, might not be the most cost effective way of solving the issue... but, yes it has it's merits...

Amusingly, on my above post, I type dollar sign, hitpart... The website changed it to Britpart, when I posted.

Maverik - the $hitpart windscreen rubber, that I made the mistake of fitting, does let the water in, but it's generally getting in and out, when it's raining, that brings the water in... mmgemini - funnily enough, I bought the same fan as you've linked, but couldn't find a "natural" place to fit them, so they never got used.

It's not something I'd have envisaged writing about in July, but in the weird weather we've having, I still seem to be needing to de-mist with regularity... I recall reading other heated discussions about the value of the following product, but setting aside whether you think they are good value (when you consider someone has to have put the R&D and tooling costs into producing them), or you can bodge together some duct and screws from B&Q for a tenner, they are very effective and fit without any adjustment. My rationale was, I'm pulling out of T-junctions blind, because I can't see out of the passenger side window of my 90 pickup, and can't safely keep reaching over to clear it. The cost of a crash far outweighed the cost of the item. I've had them fitted for a few years now, and can't fault them. The item in question is http://www.defenderdemister.com/ (Other trade and DIY solutions are available)

Tyre type depends on when you plan to drive on the snow... I've always made a point of setting a stupidly early alarm, on days when there's been a decent covering forecast, and hit the back lanes. Nice, deep fresh snow and mud terrains get on well. Once it's been thoroughly squashed and polished, by countless cars with regular tyres, you're much better off with dedicated winter/snow tyres. The multitude of sipes grip significantly better, because it's the edges of each that offer purchase on the compacted snow.

Personally, I do the work myself. I know a few others who don't and use Dan Cuff, nr Thornbury.

I've got 285/75r16 BFG MT2's on 8x16 modulars on my 90. They just stay within the arches. They're 32.8" high and 11.22" wide, in theory. The offset on the wheels still gives a decent steering lock.

I've got the same as the one in Fatbloke's link.... I've no complaints with it. http://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/brake-pipe-flaring-kit

In terms of a replacement chassis, there's a build post on here somewhere, where Richards Chassis welded cage mounts on before galvanising.

Presumably, if you're stuck in mud, there's no air flow over your rad, wherever it's located?..... I'd image they have electric fans lashed to their rads, in either case...

Have a look at what Dave Billings of Tornado Motorsport does. He makes a mid/rear engined comp safari vehicle, using flipped axles. (It's the Evo 3 model).

I can't comment on the following company personally, but I've seen them get good feedback on other non-LR car forums, for the work they've done:- Proptech Ltd, Unit 81, Hartlebury Trading Estate, Hartlebury, Kidderminster, Worcestershire, DY10 4JB Tel: 01299 251247 I suspect when it comes to one-off work, "small enough to care", probably comes into play...

I'll add weight to the poor earth argument... I cleaned up the earth strap connections (and may have added one for good measure) on my 90 300tdi, and the change in speed of my starter spinning was like night and day. As was said above, turnover speed is the key to a quick start.

How about a tapped and threaded banjo bolt? The one on the side of the transmission, that secures the oil cooler pipe, would seem a prime candidate. Or.... P38 transmission oil coolers have a temp sensor on the side... kill two birds with one stone... a better cooler and a temp sensor for free. (V8's do, not sure on diesels?)

I've only had good experiences with the Ashcroft unit. To be a pedant. Both the Ashcroft and Truetrac diffs are ATB's, not LSD's. LSD's are totally different animals, containing friction plates. (i'm ducking now, waiting to be told that they're all Limited Slip Diffs....)

On the studs idea.... no, because the handbrake is the back-up, if the normal hydraulic brakes fail, while in motion.... Imagine applying the locking studs set up at 50mph?.... kaboom!

It's worth having a look at laminate floor underlay.... 5mm foam with gold foil on top. It's very light, but insulates well. It's on ebay, for not a silly amount of money. I used trim adhesive to stick it to my 90 pick up roof, before putting the headlining back in.