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Mutley last won the day on November 2 2018

Mutley had the most liked content!

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About Mutley

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    Old Hand

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  • Location
    East Leake, Leics/Notts

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  • Interests
    Shooting, horses and the WIFE
    They are my interests, it doesn't mean I actually
    shoot horses and the wife!

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  1. .......One previous owner ......Needs ATTENTION ......Salvageable .......Beyond Repair
  2. Never bothered with torque setting, just till it's firm! Being relatively soft metal casing there is a good chance overtime you wind the plug all the way in. Just a firm up check it's not leaking an ya sorted.
  3. I think you will find you have to slacken the mid section from the back box and when all sections are loose you should have enough play to get the bolts through? Then retighten each section bit by bit. They can be a pita at times oh and you still might have to push, pull and grunt a bit even then!?!
  4. I think it's known as the "Grey White Eyed Plug"!?!.....Mating pairs can usually be found on the back of shelves behind dusty boxes in old warehouses, you will have to creep up real quite like as they are notoriously shy during this period!....Apparently if you startle them in the act of mating, the female can be quite aggressive!?!
  5. I totally agree mmgemini but i am not convinced grease is actually getting in there via this method??? Yet you can get greaseable Track Rod Ends!?!.... Which are ball joints, hence why i thought this idea would work!?! I am guessing that the build of the track rod ball joint is somewhat different to the brop arm ball joint?
  6. Is not painting a form of preserve? Unless something is totally submerged for the duration in a solution you will at various stages of it's life have to reapply the preservative i would have thought? So long as the preparation is diligent and the necessary care and steps are taken for painting of the item plus the after care of any scratches or cracks again my thinking would be paint to be as effective as a preservative and more appealing to the eye??? Both methods need careful attention after application to ensure that they are at their most effectiveness at all times. Again just my thought on the subject.
  7. Well i slackened off the grease nipple, moved the ball joint around and the result is still the same sadly!?!.... I fear HoSS could well be right in that the spring pressure combined with the upper and lower cups makes for a good seal and therefore renders this a futile exercise!?!.... The theory was good but the actual practicality would appear not so? Yet i can't help feeling this should be achievable in some way???
  8. Just checked the photos, mmm maybe sticks out a mill or so but stll wouldn't have thought it would foul on anything due to the spring!?! I will do as you say mmgemini and see what happens and report back
  9. @mmgemini why would it make a difference if the grease nipple is screwed in to far, surely it makes no never mind if it's two thirds in or all the way in??? Can you explain your reasoning please as i is a bit dim at times and it's not protruding through the other side to foul on anything, virtually flush as i recall? Cheers Andy
  10. So somewhat disappointed with the lack of grease flow, i went to have another look at things. I noticed that the ball joint was rigid very stiff? I removed the grease nipple and a small amount of grease oozed out, which is what I expected, but then the ball joint was free moving again so result on that score!?! I cannot fathom why the grease wont flow through the ball joint, the bottom cup inside has a small hole so should not be an issue i was thinking?.....But then as the ball is sitting in this with a lot of downward pressure could this cause a seal???.....I tried to lift the ball joint and alleviate the pressure by jacking up the drag arm a fraction. Result was no different!?!.....But then you have the top cup and by lifting the ball joint you are transferring the pressure upwards into this and again creating another seal!?! Anyone got any ideas ie is my thinking right and any solutions to this, seems smit should be simple but not turning out to be???
  11. Right so after a lot of expletives coz this is NEVER easy!?!...... I fitted the modified base to the drop arm ball joint.... And then added A dust cap to finish!..... Now how good, effective this is i am not sure? Some goodly force was needed on the grease gun!?! This i have put down to the small compact area it's going into plus the inside cup that the ball joint sits in has only a small hole in it, oh and then there's the odd "O" ring too!?! So this maybe the issue for difficulty of grease gun use? But theory being some grease is better than none, only timewilltell!?!
  12. Have you bled the brake system all round, checked for leaks and probably a daft question, when you put vented disc on the front did you replace the calipers for vented brakes disc? And...…. WHAT THE HELL ARE YA DOING GETTING UP TO 60MPH IN A DEFENDER!?!?!?!
  13. Cheers for the vote of confidence, i will wrestle this in place tomorrow and not forgetting to remove the small top clip off the rubber boot on the ball joint to allow the old grease to escape when fresh grease pumped in. 😉
  14. Right so i have a Defender 300tdi 90 with the standard steering drop arm set up.... As the ball joint in these things ware out at regularly intervals due to age, use and lack of GREASE!?!...I fancy the idea of a greaseable ball joint (i am contemplating the Disco conversion at some point, but money and circumstances dictate otherwise at present). So being a tight git and plus save most things i pull off the motor, i had this idea!?! A while back having renewed the front prop shaft i decided to remove the grease nipples from the old one, then found the bits to an old drop arm ball joint. I drilled a 5mm hole in the old ball joints base plat and tapped it out with a 6mm tap. Then fitted the grease nipple.. If i use this instead of the standard base my theory is i SHOULD have a greaseable ball joint???.....Can anyone see or tell me why this will not work ie a missed something in my simple way of thinking? Cheers Andy
  15. As above for me too, I'd be checking the main earth connections to chassis, engine/gearbox and body, then check the starter motor it's self. It may well just be cacked up with mud and grit and just need a clean and freeing up!?!...…..Me, I have known the starter to just fail without warning but would check the other stuff 1st. If you try jump starting it from another motor and it fires up then at least you know it's NOT the starter motor and its the electrical side of things.
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