Jump to content


Forum Financial Supporter
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Blanco last won the day on November 3 2018

Blanco had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

68 Excellent

About Blanco

  • Rank
    Old Hand

Profile Information

  • Location
    Tipperary Ireland

Recent Profile Visitors

1,055 profile views
  1. Definitely interesting, .... are you going with auto or manual box?
  2. Prime suspect would be turbo noise, sounds a bit silly but stick your head out of the open window while driving (better still while someone else is), you won't mistake it if it is the turbo. And assuming it is then the first thing to check will be the manifold. If it is the manifold then there is quite a bit on here and elsewhere about why they warp and removing webs etc. not to mention changing the studs for something better. I prepped a secondhand one ready to fit prior to stripping mine down, unless you have a mill or a shop close by it saves time.
  3. Had a tinker with it this afternoon, found one pretty significant omission in the re-build, .......... forgot to put the spring back behind the diaphragm! sorted that and managed to reset the system. All good now except that the compressor is not pressuring up the system. Probably it overheated the piston last time They do seem to be very fragile the compressors.
  4. Thanks Filip, on the NRV front I had two valve blocks and picked the best 3 from the 6 but the cones are marked on all of them although the seats seemed fine and the seals of course were new. Has anyone sourced new NRV's I wonder? Prior to trying it each time I have been charging the reservoir and setting all 4 corners at the standard height to save the compressor. If the storm isn't too bad tomorrow I might get a chance to tinker.
  5. Very neat.... just a wee note of caution,... shuttering always moves more than you hope or expect, if you have any type 1 left a bit of backfill helps a lot,... or anything with mass, either that or a few extra pegs at least at the deep end.
  6. Finished my compression test (after waiting some time for manifold gaskets) and got the engine running again I was at the back of the car sorting tools when I hear drip drip drip on the cardboard I had down from an earlier spill. ????? Up with the bonnet again and I have diesel all down the side of the engine, my freshly cleaned sump is all wet and dirty ! Switched off and took the top cover off again, ... only just having refitted everything. Injectors 1234 all have puddles of diesel around the base and on starting up again 234 are all blowing bubbles! This is a bit of a puzzle and a worry as the only injector component I had touched was the pipe on 4 which had to be moved to get to the heaterr plug. I am sure I would have noticed a diesel leak of that scale before. So without really understanding what was happening I thought I had better have a look at all the injectors. Off with the manifold (much more quickly this time) and off with the pipes..... I did think to take a picture just to make sure I could put the pipes back correctly; I decided to remove the injectors, clean up the seats, re-anneal the copper seal and re-fit, as time was short that evening I just started tentatively with No.1. 27mm deep socket required, seemed tight enough .... when you get the injector out the copper washer is quite difficult to remove, it squashes in to this groove when you tighten the injector; ..... which means that it isn't very flat when you do get it off, I had to redress it with a block of hardwood ,.. I was worried but it seemed OK and fitted nicely back over the nozzle, the washer surprised me in that it already seemed pretty soft but I annealed it anyway. Turning to the head side of things.... Its hard to picture it successfully but aside from the dirt in the injector recess, there was also considerable coke/soot on the washer seat at the bottom, as if the washer hadn't been in contact at all, that probably explains the bubbles, but I am still not sure how it would come about unless the injectors weren't tightened down properly?? To clean things up I first cut a plug of old washing up sponge to push in and catch the dirt; .... it also prevented the solvent from going down, cleaning up was quite awkard, one of the best things I found to clean the seat was a splash of carb cleaner and this bodged brush; So got No.1 back in and the following day set about the remaining 5, only hiccup being No.4 injector which has a built in sensor of some kind; That necessitated making a window;.... I did try to drill the side of the socket but while it was possible at the 1/2" drive end of the window, down towards the 12 point end it was impossibly hard, so grinder it was. Worked really well and still very strong. Only difficulty remaining was to get the pipes back on, having taken a picture I thought it would be straightforward but actually took a little while before I was confident all were correct, the firing order helped to keep things in perspective. I cut a slot in a ring spanner to nip up the pipes, I had managed to undo them with an open ended spanner but it does get congested at the back of the FIP. I had only just replaced all the leak-off pipework as part of the heater plug exercise, but I wasn't happy with the quality of it so I managed to buy a bit of Gates fuel hose the right size and replaced them all again. Whatever the problem was I now have 6 nice clean and dry injectors. Just got to get back on to the EAS at some point although I have one or two domestic chores before 'Lorenzo' gets here on Thursday.
  7. As far as I know the pass/fail criteria for the handbrake is simply one of braking effort, someone here will know . Either way I don't see how one brake would be enough. It does seem strange, was it the local 4x4 dealer? We always thought him a bit dear but never heard of anything dodgy and several colleagues at the time used him, mind you that was 20+yrs ago! times change.............
  8. Wow that is a shocker, .... we have a car salesman in the family and I do trust him but can't afford any of his offerings anyway! More worrying in a way (than the merits or otherwise of the salesman concerned) is that the situation arose on what is a relatively young vehicle, did the lining get frozen, or is it the salt do you think?
  9. So I had the EAS all working nicely, and then it let me down after a few weeks , there were some slow leaks but nothing I thought the system couldn't cope with, for example if unused for a couple of days the height would drop an inch or so. After getting the engine running again yesterday I thought I would look at it and see if the trouble could be. Dusted off the home-made cable and fired up the free software from RSWsolutions.com which has served well in the past and attempted to reset the system. As of the present moment I have not succeeded in sorting anything out. (It has been a rubbish day actually, although the engine runs I now have at least three leaking injectors which I didn't have before!) But there is a question I would like to ask if anyone knows why..... on starting even when running OK before the last malfunction, it would dump air from the rear before refilling and then finding level. This undoubtedly wastes air and increases the workload on the compressor and I would like to stop it if possible. At present it just dumps the air and doesn't refill anything. Also (OK two questions) it has failed twice now while on the move, once shortly after I bought it and the most recent occurrence, why on Earth does it dump the remaining air in the system under failure conditions, that just makes the situation 10 times worse at 60 or 70 miles an hour! I have the EAS relay swopped out already for a 4 pin standard relay as per threads on that subject.(ie I dont think the auto-levelling function is the cause of it) Airbags are now 2 years old and should still be OK. I have tried to find and repair leaks and there isn't anything major. Valve block had all new seals, and the compressor was working well when I last tested it but after it's latest trials that may no longer be the case. I seem to get a different fault list everytime I reset, but I'll have another crack at it maybe tomorrow afternoon and see if I can get a consensus of likely faults. As ever all suggestions welcomed
  10. Postscript to this is that the new gaskets took sooo long to turn up (note to self, that's the second time Craddocks have been desperately slow) that I had stumbled across the originals. So all back together and wouldn't start.... been a bit Mildly miffed off with it but after going back over everything I had done, I started looking elsewhere and found a large 80A fuse in the ECM box had blown, not sure what I have done that could have caused that, I had been working with the battery connected but didn't as far as I know short anything I shouldn't have. Anyway, I have no replacement to hand so for the present it starts and runs with a stripped down boxy fuse from a D2 fuse box, its only 50A but seems to work for the present, off to look for 80A fuses.⚡
  11. ...... or some second hand plywood as a temporary surface, might be easier
  12. A nice clean gearbox build is one of the most satisfying workshop jobs. Looks great, will the OD be ready to go with?
  13. My looked pristine too, crack only showed when warm....
  14. Yep in the distributor......
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy