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About Blanco

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    Tipperary Ireland

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  1. Two or Four post lift

    Well I have bitten the bullet too.... looked at a couple of second hand units, but there isn't the choice over here so went with new. I considered (only very briefly!) a MAHA from the local supplier but reckoned €9K was a tad OTT. Went with the Twin Busch 'Heavy' clear floor 2 post, should be here end next week. Spent today starting the electrical prep, can't wait!
  2. P38 Low Range Gremlin

    The connector on mine mounts on a tab at the tail of the motor, the connector comes apart fairly easily, 7x 1/4inch spades (2 power, 5 switches) if the spades are the same, might still work? I'll be onto testing switches on mine later ......... TBC
  3. P38 Low Range Gremlin

    Hey thanks for that Quakers, ... it'll have to be in the morning now but will do, ... meantime it looks a bit like this one;P38 transfer motor
  4. P38 Low Range Gremlin

    Just turned it the 270 degs again, and drove up the lane to check the box is fine.... It is, .... wish I'd thought of it the first time,.... Been chatting to a lad that breaks them and he says that ecu's gave trouble on the early models, but by 2000 they are pretty well sorted. ( And I opened mine and all seemed clean and bright, ... no guarantee, but... ) My next effort will probably be a 2nd hand motor, trouble is there aren't that many in the breakers hereabouts, (too old) it'll like as not have to come from the UK. I'll fiddle with the old one tomorrow if I get a minute, trouble is although annoying I can't really classify it as priority, motor is quick to change and will sort it or not at reasonable outlay..... TBC....
  5. P38 Low Range Gremlin

    Seems to be at the end of its travel in the cw sense, turns about 270degs acw with a 'notch' in the middle. Slightly surprised there aren't more turns, off to see if there is any more to be gleaned from Rave.
  6. P38 Low Range Gremlin

    I'll give it a go, ....... hopefully the rain will ease off shortly, must get on and find a proper lift rather than keep crawling under!
  7. P38 Low Range Gremlin

    During my recent trip back from France with a heavily loaded trailer, I did once select low range to manoeuver the trailer but it just carried on bleeping at me, and didn't change. It sounds daft but I've only ever had mechanically operated t-boxes before and I never gave a thought to testing the operation of it when I bought it, but it seems likely it never has worked in my ownership. Having read the handbook and looked through Rave and spent a little time looking at it this weekend to see what's what. I have found that putting Fuse 11 in doesn't seem to achieve neutral, but brings up the message as if. Connectors all seem clean and dry. ECU in my case AMR 6459 opened up and there is no sign of fried components. Motor removed and answers to + or - 12v seemingly OK, replaced Reading round the old threads the favourite culprit seems to be the ECU, but it bothers me that neutral doesn't seem to work, is that neutral function through the ECU or does it over-ride it does anyone know? I am presuming that even with the selector in 'P' putting the transfer box in neutral would enable the car to roll? Any thoughts appreciated.
  8. 1980 RR Chassis no. location?

    I'll check the outrigger, thanks. I had already found the post about the RR Vogue, and looked at the cross member, just in case my was destined to be a Vogue and turned into a base model instead! Thanks for the suggestions.......... still looking.
  9. 1980 RR Chassis no. location?

    The 'VIN' as such is only 14 characters, it is missing the 'SAL...' at the beginning to make the full 17 character modern VIN. Which I think is correct for the year. It is tough looking for something when you aren't sure how big, how long etc. (or where!) I will try the paint trick, on the front leg, but I don't think there anything there, it doesn't look as if it has had rust at that point, too much underseal.
  10. 1980 RR Chassis no. location?

    It is, but as that is riveted on (albeit with the original looking rivets) and therefore subject to the possibility of being swopped (I suppose), they are required to verify the stamped number on the chassis, so I have it up on stands at the moment brushing likely spots looking for it.
  11. Just going through the hoops to get my UK sourced 1980 3 door registered here in Ireland which means uncovering the stamped chassis number. The favourite location seems to be the RH front chassis leg, but I have thoroughly cleaned the carp and paint off and there is nothing there, nor any sign that there ever was . Neither is there any sign that the area has ever been messed with or welded. I have come across references to chassis numbers being elsewhere on early Range Rovers but has anyone any evidence of this? I have also come across a comment from someone who apparently has broken a number of vehicles and never seen one, is it really possible that BL flouted the rules to that extent? Or is it just that the chassis was replaced and not correctly marked I wonder?
  12. Slight Overheating Causes and Tests

    I thought that the Td5 gauge was curiously steady, that makes sense now, thanks. Well, just tested the fan by sticking a rolled up piece of card in the side (in my case the Stena ferry mirror card) and the b thing works perfectly, damn. Rad looks good too but may well be aftermarket. As an aside I found the source of a funny noise I was getting when backing off the revs ........ so that's what a turbo waste gate sounds like!
  13. Just back from a run down to Lot et Garonne to collect some of my workshop machinery that has been gathering dust for nearly 3 years. So loaded up the faithful Ifor Williams (weighed it at 3.5t) and loaded the car with wine (as you do), must have been pretty well up to the max permitted, and set off for Cherbourg and the ferry. No real problems on the run except that when presented with an incline the cruise control did its best to maintain progress and the box kicked down and the temperature went up sometimes into the red. I started to manage it by dropping out the cruise and slowing more, staying in the middle gears if possible, rather than rev the nuts out of it, but the red light came on briefly at one point even though I was down to about 20kmh. As soon as the hill was crested and the revs dropped the temperature went down very readily (happily). Weather and ambient temperatures were quite 'English' and not the cause. Coolant is fresh and level stayed good. Just wondering about the best way to test the viscous fan and I'll set about flushing the rad I guess.... just wondered whether folks had any other good tips about what to look for please? I know it was working hard but I have done much the same in warmer weather with a Td5, probably nearer 7t all up and the needle never moved, I think it should have handled it really. I will say that with the air suspension we were much more comfortable on the trip though!
  14. Where to sell winch hydraulics?

    Sounds like the answer is 'LR4x4', when you decide on a price ...... I bags 3rd dibs
  15. True or false? Defender unveiling?

    Well, I watched it through and I much prefer 'SOUP'. I wonder what the budget was. ........