Blanco

Well with the extra info about the heater not working, ... I would begin to wonder about the efficiency of the water pump? I would start with a thorough coolant flush, then water pump and P gasket (all good stuff to be certain of and not expensive), the heater matrix can only benefit from the flushing. It's a pretty big job to dive in and change the matrix, and pattern parts are not great quality so I wouldn't be in a hurry to change it if you are confident there is no leak.

Leaks can be tricky to pinpoint, and I have never had a D4 but the two obvious candidates would be either the top of the windscreen (recently replaced?) or the roof rails, have the rails had roof bars or racks attached? Probably need some steps to have a closer look. If you find a likely spot then use a water bottle or watering can to check and see if you can prove it. If its a windscreen problem, then it is easiest to call in the professionals to replace it, .... a roof rail might just be a case of removal cleaning and re-sealing, unless there is underlying damage. HTSH Welcome to the forum btw

Stargas here, €90 for the small size (nominal 200 bar, usually about 185) I have a much larger pure argon which is €100 to fill.

Thermostat not fully opening could be a factor, but with a D1 my first suspicion would be a gummed up rad due to age and degraded/dirty coolant. Had it long?,... got any service history?,.. what sort of ambient temps are there?... we will try and help obviously, but tell us as much as you can, and make it easier for us ..... most D1's here are Diesel but you might have a V8 over there? Welcome to the forum btw (top tip, a few pics always draw a response 😉)

I think you have to spend a bit of time to get into it,.. I have tried and failed a couple of times and it's one of those things I keep meaning to go back to, ... maybe the next lockdown I have quite a bit of 2D drafting experience... (mainly self taught unless you go back to my O-level technical drawing and early Apple mac)... I often use an old Autocad 2007 to template stuff, .... and I was expecting it all just to fall into place, ...it didn't, ...it would help me a lot to spend an hour with someone to start me off because I have yet to find a video that suits my tempo, temper and language skills. Worth persevering with though, I would love to make use of the stress analysis functions, and 3D print stuff.

That just looks such fun! .... very jealous!

Welcome... Santana stayed with leaf springs so telling a Defender 90 from a swb Santana should be straightforward (always assuming it hasn't been subject to major alteration!?). Are there not any body /chassis plates to tell you what the vehicle is? In the absence of plates, post some more pics of the vehicle and we might have more of a clue where to start. The numbers and pics you have already put up don't mean much to me but then I don't have much Series/90 axle knowledge or any Santana so that isn't perhaps surprising. 10 spline shafts are known to be the weakest in general, if the failure occured doing something you regularly do then maybe consider some upgrades anyway?

Wow! how nice it is to work with a new vehicle. Love the project.

Ifor trailers usually have 'proper' junction boxes under the floor, worth checking for them, and just make sure all is well on the inside.

Yes, saw that.... also saw it come up for sale afterwards so I guess it wasn't so easy to live with?

Me too, but I remember powder being very difficult to use successfully, it was CO2 for electrics, AFFF foam for pretty well everything. Problem is if you have that much heat going on under the bonnet or wherever then pretty soon it becomes a flammable liquids issue, so the foam might actually be the thing? I actually keep a couple of old Halon ones, you can't buy them anymore but they are unbeatable for vehicle fires.

A question I have nearly asked myself a couple of times. I have now found a friend of a friend in Kent. On the reserve front I think they do submit the highest bid to the owner, I did hear of a £650 reserve vehicle bought for £325.

I like the sound of that one, might be useful where heat could damage nearby plastics. 👍

Amen to that .... that last dash pic reminds me of the heater matrix job I did on the P38 in the 1st Lockdown, seems eons ago now! Got to get some round tuit jelly beans on the go for 2021 😁

.... I'm grateful to Snagger for the explanation , needless to say I'm not, .....and I was wondering....... I am however a Big Yin fan and if I ever hear it again, I know which association will spring to mind first!

Many thanks Soren, I'll have a good look at dlrk (with the aid of Chrome translation!)

Just wondering if there are any Danish members who have come across this? @Soren Frimodt maybe??

My first port of call, .... but mine doesn'r seem to have anything in it, there may be other editions that do I suppose.

Many thanks Arjan, interesting to compare. The green one in the wood yard looks like flat glass...... The black one is exactly the sort of thing I was interested in .... and the van I presume is just a steel panel filling in the aperture I don't suppose there was the volume to warrant pressing a bespoke side. Now all we need is the part number for the black one's back window 😃

Thanks Arjan, I was beginning to think I had imagined it, .... still haven't found an LR reference tho'. yes but I was thinking more standard (periodish) window seal and a fixed glass. Trouble is it isn't flat,... it has a radius top to bottom, though straight-ish front to back,... I have no experience of the cost of curved glass, hence the query really.

I'll echo that too, Merry Christmas to all, everywhere.🎄

The time is coming when I get stuck into a major 'refresh' of my 2 door. One of the areas where I will have quite a bit of expense it seems is seals and rubbers. Most would ideally be replaced with new, there is some NOS around at eyewatering prices and some pattern parts are available but not cheap. Side windows in particular need seals and felts and completely sorted out. In recent weeks though, I saw a reference to a one piece fixed rear side window, I think for the Danish? market. I have become quite taken with the idea of simplifying the side windows, probably be quieter as well. Problem is I can't find whatever it was I saw again, or any other reference to 'simple' glazing at the rear of a 2 door. Anyone out there seen this option/variation? Or any experience/recommendations for getting one-off windows made for classic vehicles?

.... opening a door stops mine going down as well.

... on that note, heres one from Martin Walter !970 ish CF which I observe is very close to the wheelbase of a 127/130, a man with the right skills could graft that on

.... I bet Mo's right 🔃