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bmhor

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  1. That seems to be the general concensius, plus remove the center silencer... Thanks for the thoughts.
  2. Lots of vacum plumbing on the O/S for the EGR, fuel cooler, cat etc.
  3. You say the sweetest things........LOL
  4. Evening Mark, You should be able to tighten the captive nuts with the correct sized "Nutsert" tool. trying to fit a 109 underseat tank would involve a lot of modification to the tank as the front radius arm mount gets in the way if I remember correctly. Bob
  5. As I don't have the alarm anyway, it's non requirement is preferable and i don't have an issue with insurance here!! So how do I get rid of it? Bob
  6. I've just "aquired" an ex Discovery TD5 engine and manual gearbox and I'm planning a 90 build! My question is, what can I do away with from the standard TD5 installation as there's just way too much "stuff" hanging off the engine for a clean install. I have Rovacom so can deal with ECU issues. Any help or suggestions are most welcome (before anyone else says it, I've already been told not to go there....LOL) Bob
  7. HELP needed please. I've just converted a N/A 110 to a 300tdi with R380 box and fitted new clutch kit, release bearing, fork, push rod together with master and slave cylinders. The problem is that although the hydraulics are bled OK and the clutch feels fine, when you press the clutch you can't engage gear. Turning the engine off, selecting gear and restarting the engine works and the with the clutch pressed the car will stay put with a light pressure on the brake. Driving it gearchanges are OK but when you stop you can't get it out of gear.... I've rebled the system, checked the adjustment of the master cyl push rod and even tried a spacer in the slave cyl to increase travel all to no avail..... Has anybody got any ideas as what little hair I've got left is going fast!! Bob
  8. Having just done this, you can use the old wiper motor BUT you need to make a top hat bush to locate the motor shaft in the door as the new door has a bigger shaft hole than the old doors. I put the new door onto a G or H plate back tub and used the existing door stay etc. If you want to go for the later look, be sure to specify that you have a high level brake light when you order the glass as the connections to the light are copper tracks on the glass. I forgot! Bob
  9. It is possible to replace the pins but you will need a source of heat (oxy/accet worked for me) a punch of the right size, a large hammer and someone else to hold the punch in case you miss with the hammer....... Much easier and safer to replace hinge.. Bob
  10. Hi Morten, As you can see from these photo's, its a long term project...... The mods to the rear arch can be seen as the shiny bit but the rest of the bodywork has not been modified. Any questions just ask. Bob
  11. Don't be silly, Its almost Borders Time and the racer's coming out to play but not with me driving I should point out! Anyway its not Xmas yet so not time for anywork on it yet..... Hope your keeping well Bob
  12. Thanks Pete, I'm hoping it wont come to that...... Bob
  13. Morning All, I've just picked up and old Crypton 290 gas analyser which is reporting that it's out of calibration. How can I disable the calibration as I want it for information rather than exact figures. On the back there is a block of small "DIP" switches with a sticker over them saying that the Calibration is invalid if removed, so I'm guessing that they have something to do with it.. Any help, manuals etc. would be appreciated. Bob
  14. Rob, You are a star! I should have known, Land Rovers and hammers go together.. Thanks again guys for your help, I'll get hammering in the morning. Bob
  15. Well the good news is that it does not look like an EDC pump. I thought is was just a normal one until I went to power the shut off solenoid. There is just a black box on the end of the pump with 3 wires going into it. I've tried providing power and earth to this in a variety of combinations but no joy. Bob
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