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Everything posted by bmhor

  1. That seems to be the general concensius, plus remove the center silencer... Thanks for the thoughts.
  2. Lots of vacum plumbing on the O/S for the EGR, fuel cooler, cat etc.
  3. You say the sweetest things........LOL
  4. Evening Mark, You should be able to tighten the captive nuts with the correct sized "Nutsert" tool. trying to fit a 109 underseat tank would involve a lot of modification to the tank as the front radius arm mount gets in the way if I remember correctly. Bob
  5. As I don't have the alarm anyway, it's non requirement is preferable and i don't have an issue with insurance here!! So how do I get rid of it? Bob
  6. I've just "aquired" an ex Discovery TD5 engine and manual gearbox and I'm planning a 90 build! My question is, what can I do away with from the standard TD5 installation as there's just way too much "stuff" hanging off the engine for a clean install. I have Rovacom so can deal with ECU issues. Any help or suggestions are most welcome (before anyone else says it, I've already been told not to go there....LOL) Bob
  7. HELP needed please. I've just converted a N/A 110 to a 300tdi with R380 box and fitted new clutch kit, release bearing, fork, push rod together with master and slave cylinders. The problem is that although the hydraulics are bled OK and the clutch feels fine, when you press the clutch you can't engage gear. Turning the engine off, selecting gear and restarting the engine works and the with the clutch pressed the car will stay put with a light pressure on the brake. Driving it gearchanges are OK but when you stop you can't get it out of gear.... I've rebled the system, checked the adjustment of the master cyl push rod and even tried a spacer in the slave cyl to increase travel all to no avail..... Has anybody got any ideas as what little hair I've got left is going fast!! Bob
  8. Having just done this, you can use the old wiper motor BUT you need to make a top hat bush to locate the motor shaft in the door as the new door has a bigger shaft hole than the old doors. I put the new door onto a G or H plate back tub and used the existing door stay etc. If you want to go for the later look, be sure to specify that you have a high level brake light when you order the glass as the connections to the light are copper tracks on the glass. I forgot! Bob
  9. It is possible to replace the pins but you will need a source of heat (oxy/accet worked for me) a punch of the right size, a large hammer and someone else to hold the punch in case you miss with the hammer....... Much easier and safer to replace hinge.. Bob
  10. Hi Morten, As you can see from these photo's, its a long term project...... The mods to the rear arch can be seen as the shiny bit but the rest of the bodywork has not been modified. Any questions just ask. Bob
  11. Don't be silly, Its almost Borders Time and the racer's coming out to play but not with me driving I should point out! Anyway its not Xmas yet so not time for anywork on it yet..... Hope your keeping well Bob
  12. Thanks Pete, I'm hoping it wont come to that...... Bob
  13. Morning All, I've just picked up and old Crypton 290 gas analyser which is reporting that it's out of calibration. How can I disable the calibration as I want it for information rather than exact figures. On the back there is a block of small "DIP" switches with a sticker over them saying that the Calibration is invalid if removed, so I'm guessing that they have something to do with it.. Any help, manuals etc. would be appreciated. Bob
  14. Rob, You are a star! I should have known, Land Rovers and hammers go together.. Thanks again guys for your help, I'll get hammering in the morning. Bob
  15. Well the good news is that it does not look like an EDC pump. I thought is was just a normal one until I went to power the shut off solenoid. There is just a black box on the end of the pump with 3 wires going into it. I've tried providing power and earth to this in a variety of combinations but no joy. Bob
  16. OK the question is: How can you "turn on" the injector pump on a 300tdi that has the black plastic box instead of the fuel shut off solenoid? I've just bought a 3dr disco for spares but someone had made off with the multifunction box that I'm guessing controls this. FYI is an R plate. Bob
  17. There are 2 answers, 1 long but I'll stick with the short version... NO! Roofs done, shortened Haggis Recovery's old 110 roof to fit together with Hawk's old 110 rear side panels and it's coming together but work, or lack of work, have got in the way and she's now outside under a hap with a Herc loading net over it to keep the hap in place. Maybee next week, month etc.... In my defence, I must point out that it was a Xmas project but I didn't think that I'ld only get any work done at Xmas times...... Bob
  18. The Scottish Hill Rally Club (SHR Club Ltd.) is pleased to announce that entries are now open for the Scottish Borders Hill Rally 2009. The event will be held from Saturday 28th Novenber until 29th November 2009 at Forrest Estate situated a few miles north of St Johns Town of Dalry in Dumfries & Galloway. - 28/29 November 2009 - 100 stage miles, 20 liaison miles - All private roads: no need to be "Road Legal" - MT" tyre list [as per MSA blue book list V(b)] - run under MSA National B permit For further information, entry form and supplementary regulations please email entries@scottish-hillrally.co.uk Many thanks ---------- Helen Gentleman Event Secretary Scottish Borders Hill Rally 2009
  19. I appreciate that the injectors are banked and the bad connections have been fixed OK but having checked all the electrical sensors as per L/R workshop manual and everything is within spec at cold and at temp, what else can I do? Compression tests shows all OK Any suggestions????? Bob
  20. When you work this out it gives a time of about 83 ms Divided by 2 (no of banks) and 4 (no of cyls per bank) gives a cycle time of 10ms and your looking for about 2ms at idle....... I wonder if the meter can measure the % of the cycle used???? Bob
  21. As you adjust the bulkhead and not the back body, the way that I always do this job is fit the back body and then set the bulkhead so that the door gaps are parallel and the correct gap. This way everything else "should" fall into place. If you need a hand give me a shout. Bob
  22. I'm looking at a friends 90 which has a late 3.9 (serp belt) engine fitted and is running rich. There are no cats fitted and has the green tune resistor. I've been through all the electrical tests in the manual and the only thing I've found were 2 bad connections on the connectors for injectors 1 & 3 What I need to do now is measure the injector pulse length HOWEVER my meter only gives frequency..... Is there a way to work out from the freq. what the pulse length is??? The freq measured at idle is 11 - 12 Hz Bob
  23. Jon, A couple of things come to mind; When you first turn on the ignition, the fuel pump should run for a couple of sec's to prime the system, is this happening? If not have a look at the main power relay. From the coil there is a single wire from the -ve connection to a "relay" mounted on the AFM bracket (on a R/R anyway) this is the sense wire that tells the ECU that the engine is turning over and it should fire the injectors and turn on the puel pump. Its not unknown for the "relay" to fail or the wire to fall of the coil. My money is on the main power reley..... Bob
  24. You can remove the vacuum module and replace with a lever to give YOU control of when diff lock is in or out... If you just need to dissengage the diff, you can put air pressure to the opposite side which will work. I suppose that if you had an onboard compressor, you could do away with the vacuum pipe and run it only of compressed air using the same switch. If you want more info on the manual conversion, let me know and I'll dig out the photo's from the last time I did the conversion. Bob
  25. Count me in for both the DVD and the husky female voice.... Bob
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